LIVE from the Camino Camino Viejo (Miranda de Ebro - Aguilar de Campoo) June 2023

[WestKirsty]

Day 0: Miranda de Ebro

I'm finally here, ready to start walking! A huge thank you to @VNwalking for the virtual thread and all who contributed ideas and experiences! And to @caminka for the detailed guide and tracks shared on the forum. I'm both excited and a bit nervous to head out tomorrow and explore the area. I've copy & pasted relevant posts from the virtual thread and printed off a little guide for myself. All the information on ermitas, necrópolis, dólmenes etc. is much appreciated!

My plan is to take 8 days to Aguilar de Campoo where I'll join the offical Olvidado, taking in as much as I can en route.

I recently learned that you can "draw your own trail" on Wikiloc so I've used the tracks from @caminka mixed with some more recent Wikiloc tracks, other GR routes and VNWalking's ideas to create a few of my own stages. Whether or not they'll be passable remains to be seen It's a nice feature of Wikiloc for those who also use the app!

I should also note that the tourism office here in Miranda was very helpful! The gentleman there didn't really know what I was trying to do when I mentioned the Camino (but not the one to Burgos!) but went out of his way to give me maps, show me sattelite photos of some of where I'll walk tomorrow etc.

I know there's a few folks out there planning to walk this way this year so I'll update this thread as best I can.

Hasta mañana!!

 

[AshIreGal]

Day 0: Miranda de Ebro

I'm finally here, ready to start walking! A huge thank you to @VNwalking for the virtual thread and all who contributed ideas and experiences! And to @caminka for the detailed guide and tracks shared on the forum. I'm both excited and a bit nervous to head out tomorrow and explore the area. I've copy & pasted relevant posts from the virtual thread and printed off a little guide for myself. All the information on ermitas, necrópolis, dólmenes etc. is much appreciated!

My plan is to take 8 days to Aguilar de Campoo where I'll join the offical Olvidado, taking in as much as I can en route.

I recently learned that you can "draw your own trail" on Wikiloc so I've used the tracks from @caminka mixed with some more recent Wikiloc tracks, other GR routes and VNWalking's ideas to create a few of my own stages. Whether or not they'll be passable remains to be seen It's a nice feature of Wikiloc for those who also use the app!

I should also note that the tourism office here in Miranda was very helpful! The gentleman there didn't really know what I was trying to do when I mentioned the Camino (but not the one to Burgos!) but went out of his way to give me maps, show me sattelite photos of some of where I'll walk tomorrow etc.

I know there's a few folks out there planning to walk this way this year so I'll update this thread as best I can.

Hasta mañana!!

Howdy, if you like DM me a contact and I'll WhatsApp you any key folks or places along the way that I have handy on my phone. I walked last year and maybe 2 years before that. Enjoy. Remember the train track is close by, and so because of one thing or another, last year I ended up back in Bilbao to sleep, and also slept in Leon for a night, and then back to Bonar by train with new runners on and continued walking. So while it may feel remote, you can get back to a main city to pick up a medication or gear item should you need something.

 

[LTfit]

Today you're on your way!

Hope all goes well and who knows, maybe our paths will cross on the Olvidado. Tomorrow Bilbao and my day 0.

Ultreia!

 

[mla1]

@WestKirsty and @LTfit --- really looking forward to hearing about both your walks!
Hope you get brilliant weather!
Buen camino!
Mary Louise

 

[peregrina2000]

Today you're on your way!

Hope all goes well and who knows, maybe our paths will cross on the Olvidado. Tomorrow Bilbao and my day 0.

Ultreia!

Echoing mla’s best wishes. This is perfect timing, I just got home last night and now I can have some armchair camino, which is an easier transition to life off the camino than by going cold turkey.

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 1: Miranda de Ebro to Baños de Sobron (~27km)

A lovely day to start this journey! The GR 99 was just a short walk from Pension Las Metillas (31 euros for private ensuite room). I opted to take the northern arm of the GR today...a bit longer than the South but as it was perfect weather and I had all day, why not!

The path is easy going and passes a few big industrial sites before crossing over the highway and into the countryside. There was some really lovely walking today. There was a stretch on a wide gravel road, lined with wild flowers, and bright red poppies down the middle. There were butterflies all around me and it just felt so dream like. I didn't see anyone else on the trails today, just deer and rabbits! It was such a peaceful spot!

A little after Salcedo, I took the short detour to see the Dolmen de la Lastra, used as a burial site in the Neolithic period. I was also surprised to see a freshly painted yellow arrow on one of the GR markers! The route merged with the GR 1 and there were yellow arrows pointing the way until the 99 and 1 parted ways in Fontecha. I'm very curious where those arrows lead!

The trail went off the roads shortly after Caicedo de Yuso. Note to self : wear long trousers tomorrow. The path was quite overgrown and there were lots of nettles about. My legs are a bit of a mess. It was also muddy in sections and I ended up giving up and just walking through a few big puddles. The temperatures were rising so it was actually quite refreshing!

I crossed back over the Ebro at Puentelarra. There was another diversion today shortly after to the Necropolis Altomedieval de Santa María de Tejuela. The man in the tourist office in Miranda showed me sattelite images of the site; it's much bigger than it first appears. There's some remains left of what was a church and then the burial sites of some 350 people! There's a path that goes right round the area with lots of spots for picnics etc. I'm glad I went!

It was getting past midday by this point and hot! I went through Villanueva Soportilla and what a little village that is! A elderly man stopped me for a chat and he was clearly so proud of the place. They've got large photos of people who were born and lived in Villanueva as part of efforts to pay respects to their history. There are some information panels as well. Just lovely! (I've just realized I've been using that word a lot to describe today!).

Then the scenery got more spectacular as I was approaching the mountains and heading into the canyon. The path heads off the road again on the south side of the river passing underneath spectacular cliffs. Unfortunately, at this point there were signs saying the path was closed due to rockfalls/avalanches. I went a little further on to see the path myself and then it was chained off. I'm sure many people would get around it and go but a quick look at mapy.cz revealed an easy work around - to backtrack just a minute or two to a "path" going across the river. I was curious and it turned out to be a natural bridge! There was then a short hiking trail on the north side of the river leading to a recreation area with park space, signs point to climbing routes, kayaking etc. and a bar! Cold drinks are always welcome!

There is another short trail on the north of the river and just a few minutes on the road before getting to Hostal Durtzi, where I'm staying tonight. The owner is friendly and will make dinner for me a little later. Plenty of free time to sit by the river, soaking my feet and reading a book. Perfect.

Some practical info: plenty of water fountains in the villages on route. There was a bar open in Fontecha where I stopped for second breakfast. I didn't see any others. Also, in prepping for this route I was told by the owner here that they have a 2 night minimum on the weekends. It's a tiny "village" but is supect the area gets busy on the weekends. It's gorgeous!!

Some pics from today:

 

[pelerine]

Looking forward to reading you!
Bon courage and Buen Camino!

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 2: Baños de Sobron to Quintana Martin Galíndez (26km...and lots of elevation!)

Gorgeous start to the day, then a long, hot slog to Quintana. I stayed with the GR 99 and went straight up out of the canyon and into those glorious mountains. It was a beautiful morning, which made for some lovely views. After 2km I reached Sobron Alto, a very cute little hamlet with even better views! I saw a Casa Rural Up there but no one was around. There's a little plaza with benches that made a perfect spot for a picnic breakfast. Also a good spot to make sure the water bottles are full as from there it was a solid 8-10km hike with quite a bit more elevation gain, up to just shy of 1100m in elevation from Baños, which is at about 500m elevation.

Again, I didn't see a single person on the trail today but it's in good condition, albeit a bit overgrown in places. There were so many spiderwebs across that path that I ended up using my pole as a web wacker - making big figure 8s in front of me to knock at least some of them away before my face did. It was a good thing I was alone up there so no one saw my performance!

It was mostly single track to the top before joining a dirt service road which took long switchbacks down. There were other hiking trails down but they looked too steep for my liking, but maybe stronger hikers would enjoy them and it would cut off quite a few km.

Down from the mountains the route was on mostly dirt roads and quite flat all the way to Quintana. But I really felt the heat after the morning's efforts. I stopped at every village (they all seemed about 2km apart!) for shade and a water break. The strategy worked and I made it to the albergue shortly after 14:00. I'm outside right now as I write this and a nearby digital sign says it's 36°. I believe it!

I'm staying in Albergue Valle de Tobalina and it's fantastic!! Sarah - half English, half Spanish - welcomed me with ice water and a necatarin and is such a wonderful host! Some cyclists are expected this evening but she's given me my own room with a private bathroom. 18 euros for the night. There is a washing machine but I just hand washed in the sink and there's a line outside to dry your clothes - with a view to Frias

Not much is open in Quintana. I'm waiting outside a little grocery shop but have just been told they're running late and won't open until 19:00. Ah, village life.

Practicalities: lots of water fountains on route today (yay!) but no other services. A few of the little villages had bars but they looked like they hadn't opened in a long time. I should also note that the GR 99 is very well marked! I've had Wikiloc running in the background, just in case, but for the most part have just followed the markers.

Finally, i didn't have any cell/mobile reception when in the mountains this morning. Best to download all maps you want on your phone before heading out. Also a good idea to make sure friends/family know where you are ...just in case

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Do you use any maps/guides/resources in particular? In a few weeks I will be on the Viejo... Could you offer advice about what I should bring? Normally, Gronze is my go-to place for other Caminos but they haven't published detailed info about this one. You mention the planning thread on this Forum - is it all I need? It would be great to have a compilation of the places to stay on the Viejo, in one document. But I havn't found that yet.

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 3: Quintana Martin Galíndez to Oña (via Frias and Tobera) 26km

Wow, what a day! I actually decided on doing this week on the Viejo because I wanted to visit the 3 places I've been today - perhaps a bit ironic that they're not on the "official Camino". Though I don't know that there is one around here anyway!

I took mostly roads today to keep the kilometers and elevation gain to a minimum. I needed time for touristing! It's an easy walk from the Albergue in QMG to Frias on the GR99 or roads close by. The approach to Frias was fantastic across the Medieval Bridge with the old town and castle above. From there you follow a cobblestone road up and up (and a little tough on sore feet!). The town was all but empty in the morning but bar La Roca was open and has great tortilla. I didn't realize until I was wandering around that it's literally right below the castle..sharing the same big rock. I asked for a stamp for my credential and she had one, knew why I was asking but then it turned out it was out of ink. She said it's been a while since someone asked for one.

Such a beautiful little place, the pictures don't do it justice.






Then I went south along a PR route for just a few km to the village of Tobera. Another wow. I went into the first bar I came to and it has a wall of windows overlooking a beautiful rock wall. To the right, is one of the waterfalls the town is famous for. The bar has a terrace downstairs overlooking it so it was time for another break. Who could pass on that view!

After a little more wandering and lots of photos you follow stone steps farther into the narrow canyon and come to the picturesque Ermita de Santa María de la Hoz. Yet one more wow moment. The Ermita is closed and I doubt they'll open it anytime soon based on the state of the door. I was leaving just as a tourist bus arrived.





There are signs for GR routes from the Ermita to Trespaderne (15 or so km) or Oña (also 15 or so km). Both routes follow the road through the narrow canyon before heading onto a smaller dirt road into the hills. Once again, there was no cell reception and I didn't see anyone on any trail again today. If you want a solitary walk, this one is for you! So far I've seen 2 deer, rabbits, a fox, lots of little lizards etc. but no humans.

The road takes you to Villanueva de los Montes where there was no one, but there is a fountain! There was then an option to continue on the trail and keep following the GR or stick to the road to get to Oña. I stuck to the road and it seemed a good option. It's a narrow single lane road, gravel in some parts, and no cars. It passes through a pine forest so was pleasant enough and got me into Oña just in time to avoid the incoming storm.

I was actually at a bar when it started - the wind sent empty chairs across the plaza. The barman asked me what I was up to (seeing my pack) so I explained my crazy Camino plan and we chatted for a while. He then asked if I had eaten and I asked for croquetas or something and he ended up putting down a vertiable feast in front of me - plates of jamón, queso, bread, pinxos (Bilbao style) and pineapple for dessert. And he wouldn't let me pay for a thing. Just wow.

I then visited the Monasterio San Salvador de Ona. Another storm rolled in and I could hear thunder as I walked around. Just as I was leaving, a tour group arrived.



So this stage was definitely touristy, with some quiet, solitary easy walking thrown in for good measure.

I'm staying in the Albergue Turístico here tonight (14€ and they've given me my own room. But it's an open ceiling so I can hear everything...not sure who the others are, just hoping they're quiet tonight.) It can be reserved via the tourism office. There's a good kitchen and I spotting a washing machine. A seating area with a TV as well. Oh, and it's in a refurbished train station:


What a day.

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 4: Oña to Trespaderne (~20km)

Decisions needed to be made about today's route. When I first started planning out stages I came across tracks/photos/news of a Via Verde connecting Oña and Trespaderne. It follows along the narrow canyon, through tunnels, across bridges etc. An easy, flat 9.8km. it would have been perfect! A relaxed morning in Oña, leisurely stroll followed by lunch in Trespaderne.

However, the bridge just before Trespaderne is not yet complete. It was to have been completed last summer but there's an issue with the availability of wood and it's turned into quite a news item apparently! There's even an Instagram account for the Via updating followers on the goings on. The company doing the work is apparently being fined weekly for the delays but there's still no end in sight.

I found several Wikiloc tracks from people who have walked it - most just going out, turning around at the bridge and returning. However, others seem to be going over anyway. They've taken pictures of the signs and bridge itself; some pictures make it look ok to pass. Others make my stomach turn a little. Sadly, it was in the news that a groups was out with their dog, tried to cross and the dog fell to it's death.

When I asked at the tourist office yesterday I was told quite clearly that there are no bridges. You cannot take the Via. If you want to walk to Trespaderne, take the road he said.

I wasn't keen on either of these options. It's a narrow canyon, and I saw that the road had very little shoulder. Plus tunnels with cars going by?! No thanks.

So on to option number 3. I've mentioned before how useful Mapy.cz app has been this trip. I relied on it today. On the map, several GR and PR routes were labelled and looked doable. They started out for 1km on the Via before heading off onto a side road and then up into the hills. It was a nice hike - steep in parts but nothing crazy.

Up and over the mountain and then down to the ruins of the Monestario de San Juan de Hoz, used before the Monestary in Oña was built. Not much remains but it is in a beautiful location. There was also a nearby Necrópolis that was the resting place for 84 people.

Then just a short walk into Cillaperlata for a quick visit to a cave at the side of the Ebro River. After that, I expected an easy, pleasant forest stroll for 5.5km back on the GR99 to get to my final destination for the day. However, yesterday's storms made for a muddy mess and the area has had some forestry work done recently so it wasn't exactly pleasant. The work also meant it wasn't always clear which path to take (I lost the GR markers for a little while) but eventually got out of there.

I'm staying at Hostel Jose Luis tonight (50€ for ensuite room). It's a bit dated but he did let me check in at 13:00 which was appreciated. I had lunch at the restaurant which was good (Burrata Salad). There are several bars in town and a small Eroski Supermarket - open Sundays as well, until 13:30. That was a pleasant surprise.

So not a spectacular day, but fine. The clouds kept the temperature down but didn't make for great photos.

 

[mla1]

If those photos show just a “fine” day - that route’s a winner!
Thanks for these posts!

 

[WestKirsty]

If those photos show just a “fine” day - that route’s a winner!
Thanks for these posts!

I think if yesterday hadn't been so spectacular I would've had a better impression today. I've been spoiled! And that canyon walk looks like it'll be wonderful once they sort out the bridge situation! But yes, it was a good one

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 5: Trespaderne to Dobro (~32km)
What a day! I'm not sure how much to write about it, actually, as I could go on and on...

The route was a fabulous one, on the GR 99 and then GR 85, following in Caminka's footsteps in 2012. You leave Trespaderne over a beautiful bridge and follow the road to the edge of the canyon. This is the same road to Oña and I'm so glad I chose against it yesterday. It's quite busy! But you're not on it long on it and then head up a trail to start a really lovely hike. It was a nice morning, cool, with clear skies. Storms were forecast for the afternoon and I wanted to beat them to my destination so I didn't visit any of the nearby caves. There's just so much to explore in this area!

It's a steady climb on a wide dirt path through forests and with views to the mountains around you. I really enjoyed this walk. Again, not a human in sight!




After heading down the hill (mountain?) You come to Tartales de los Montes, a little hamlet, and then join a small road. You pass through a short tunnel and WOW! What a view! Ahead of you, the edge of the gorge and the valley below. You turn around to see the waterfall. What a morning indeed.



After decending the road and passing through Hoz, the GR 85 takes you on dirt roads/trails through the valley. This section went by quickly, passing several little villages, all with water fountains.

And then I saw San Pedro de Tejada in the distance. It's stunning even from afar! It's a quick walk to it but there was a sign stating that visits are only by previous arrangement with 48 hours notice until 7 July. I'm not sure what visiting hours will be after that. I was really disappointed as I wanted to see it up close. Just then a car pulled up and a couple from Leon popped out. They too were disappointed that they couldn't visit but the man walked along a path away from me and next thing I knew, he was on the other side of the fence! Turns out a section has been pulled down so we were able to view it properly.




It was then a very short walk to Puente Arenas where there's a bar just off the GR, near the bridge. It was my last break before the final push.

I continued on the GR 85 to El Almine where there's another beautiful church but I was racing storms so didn't stop. At the end of the road, just before joining the old Calzada, there's a house with a big open garage. I saw an old German Shepherd first and when he noticed me, he started barking which alerted the other 2 I hadn't seen in the garage. They all came running. I used to have a Sherpard mix so am used to big dogs (kind of obsessed with them, actually) and recognized that this was territorial. I slowly walked back telling them how beautiful they were (they really were!) and when I got back far enough they stopped coming at me let up barking. But then I was stuck with how to get past to the trail ahead! There was a car there so I shouted to see if anyone inside could hear but no luck. I approached again slowly and just the old guy continued barking, the others watched closely but gave me no more issues. I guess we all just needed to sus each other out. Still got my heart pumping though!

It's a very cool old road, up some 281m.


But as I got near the top, it started to rain. I went as quickly as I could but just a km or so shy of the Casa Rural, the storm caught me. Let's just say I got wet and was so very, very happy to arrive at the Casa safely.



It's a nice house! 59€ for an ensuite room, breakfast included. A definite step up from the places I've been staying at. Dinners aren't usually provided midweek but can be arranged in advance. I suggest this as there's nothing else in Dobro...just 5 houses. David, the owner is very friendly and incredibly helpful! He responds promptly to emails.

So another wow day! For a few reasons!

 

[LTfit]

I'm only now checking in but it looks like I'm on the wrong Camino. What incredible sites you've visited already. It looks like the weather has also been on your side. Lucky you! Except for my first day out of Bilbao it has rained every day!

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 6: Dobro to Pesquera de Ebro (~200m on foot, 14km by car)

Ah, mother nature. I realized today that it was on day 5 of my Camino Invierno over Christmas that the trail flooded during heavy rains. A day I won't soon forget.

Yesterday, day 5 of this journey, also saw mother nature showing her strength. I mentioned that I got caught in the storm yesterday, painfully close to the Casa Rural. I didn't share all of the story - that I was in a very exposed area and started seeing lightning around me at about the same time that the marble-sized hail started pelting down. I ended up waiting for it to pass, crouching under a bush, trying to stay as low as possible. I won't soon forget the thunder - not the low, booming kind but the loud cracking kind that makes you flinch. I was cursing myself for being in that position.

The route to the Casa was short, but would take me up and over a rise with no vegetation. I did not want to be the tallest thing out there so waited in my little bushes in a depression. It couldn't have been long, but it certainly felt a while. It was just one storm after another yesterday evening.

This is a long way of saying that I wanted to be cautious for today. Last night I checked the forecasts repeatedly and the storm warnings were for the afternoon again. The plan had been to stick to the road to Pesquera de Ebro (better chance of cell coverage, of which I didn't have much yesterday) and just 14-15km, which I could easily walk long before the afternoon storms rolled in.

But at 5am this morning I was woken by thunder and heavy rain. I checked the forecast and the storm advisory had changed, from 6am to midnight. All day today.

It was one storm after another, and it was the lightning that worried me. Bright flashes lit up the morning sky.

I had breakfast at 8:30 and it was around this time the storms parted and the sun popped out. I talked things over with David, the owner of the Casa Rural, and we both felt it was ok to venture out. He gave me his phone number in case I ran into problems. Off I went.

It's a small country road but again, pretty exposed. Some scattered trees about but no buildings for about 5km. And not far out of Dobro, I saw the big black cloud. I waited to see if I could tell which direction it was headed and it was easy to see it was coming towards Dobro - so, me. When I saw the bolts of lightning, I turned around and made straight for the Casa again. David let me in just as the rain started pelting down and cracks of thunder rang out above. I don't know if this is a healthy respect for lightning or a genuine fear. Maybe others would have walked on but I was done for the day. David said he was going out this afternoon anyway and could drop me off in Pesquera then. I was so, so thankful for this offer and couldn't pass it up. I can't say enough about his kindness and hospitality!



So, I sat in the lovely sitting room of his house, reading and drinking tea for several hours. I felt disappointed at not walking, for being in such a situation in the first place. But perhaps my weather adventures these past 2 Caminos are trying to teach me that it's ok to ask for and accept help. I can be stubbornly independent at times.

And of course, Murphy's law, after the storm that turned me back, there have been no more today. I could've walked, but took the advisories very seriously.

I'm at Hotel El Arco tonight, 50€. Dated but comfortable. There are 2 bars/restaurants here and it looks like a little autoservicio to buy food. The sign said open at 17:00 but it's closed this evening. Maybe just in the summer holiday season?

I should also note how gorgeous this area is! David drove down the same road I wouldve walked (does this count as having done the etapa?!?) and the switchback into the canyon offers beautiful views. I went for a short walk this afternoon to a nearby canyon mirador. Wow!! (No idea how many times I've said that on this journey). Beautiful.



I'm feeling quite reflective this evening and if you've read this far, thank you!

 

[WestKirsty]

I'm only now checking in but it looks like I'm on the wrong Camino. What incredible sites you've visited already. It looks like the weather has also been on your side. Lucky you! Except for my first day out of Bilbao it has rained every day!

I'm in awe of this route. There's no one around so I've been literally yelling wow at points!

The weather is the mornings has been great. But storm advisories for the past few afternoons. Not so much fun.

I was just on your thread and saw that you've had storms too! Stayed safe out there!!

 

[VNwalking]

Oooooooh!
So sorry I didn't see this sooner.
Thanks to @SabsP , who told me about this thread. I have much to catch up with. And before reading anything, a headful of eager questions.
Super-buen Camino to you, @WestKirsty !

 

[Rebekah Scott]

what a wonderful walk! Thanks for sharing this with all of us.

 

[VNwalking]

Gorgeous start to the day, then a long, hot slog to Quintana

Is there any way to follow the road instead, do you know? During the virtual Camino we had a long discussion about crossing the Ebro at Puente de Tobalinilla, and walking on the southern side of the river until Montejo de Cebas, then staying in Frias.

In a few weeks I will be on the Viejo...

Oh boy. You lucky bad pilgrim, you....
Envyyyyyyyyyyyy.

There are signs for GR routes from the Ermita to Trespaderne (15 or so km) or Oña (also 15 or so km).

Big decision.
Hard choice.
And wow. The ermita looks soooo special.

Monestario de San Juan de Hoz

So glad you got there!

And that canyon walk looks like it'll be wonderful once they sort out the bridge situation!

The only good thing about having to wait. After our virtual Camino this is way up on my list, far above anything else.

Is there still an albergue in Quintana?
And how about the place in Porquera del Butron? You would not have walked through there, but I am hoping you may have heard.

 

[WestKirsty]

Is there any way to follow the road instead, do you know? During the virtual Camino we had a long discussion about crossing the Ebro at Puente de Tobalinilla, and walking on the southern side of the river until Montejo de Cebas, then staying in Frias.

Yes, I suppose you could! There is actually a marked GR99 route on the south side of the river but it would make more sense if you took the road through the canyon. Otherwise there's a bit of backtracking if you come down from the mountain like I did. Info on this alternative is here:

Etapa 10.1: Barcina de Barco - San Martín de Don

Etapa 10.1: Barcina de Barco - San Martín de Don

www.mapa.gob.es

You would have to branch off to a road to stay on the south. I haven't looked at the maps in detail but I suppose it would be possible. The roads I've been on have been quiet.

I'd have liked to have stayed in Frias but didn't look too hard at accommodation options after seeing several Casa Rurales can only be booked entirely and there was an albergue near by. I appreciated a cheaper night as the next few are expensive!

Is there still an albergue in Quintana?

Do you mean Quintana de Valdivieso? No, there are 2 places here that have dormitory accommodations, La Casa Grande and Atre & Natura. I think the latter is the one people referred to as an albergue. However, neither will open the dorm-style rooms for individual travellers, only groups.

I ended up on Dorbo because I couldn't find accommodation is Quintana. A Spanish walker did this very same route a month or so ago and had the same problem (he posted a few things on the Olvidado Facebook page). Several of my accommodation hosts have mentioned him to me... you're doing what he did, they say! 2 of us so far this year

And how about the place in Porquera del Butron?

I'm sorry, I don't have any news to share!

 

[VNwalking]

Do you mean Quintana de Valdivieso?

Yes, exactly.
I asked because @Sheffield James had stayed there:

The tourist albergue at Quintana is excellent, both in terms of its location in yet another valley, but also the quality of service and decor in a substantially-sized former palace. The fact I was the only guest that night may have had something to do with the attentiveness of the staff, but I think I deserved a bit of pampering after the previous night’s fiasco. I paid €35.50 for a dorm bed, a delicious three course dinner with wine, and a tasty breakfast. Guests can pay for the bed alone, or they can add the meal +/or breakfast options, as they prefer. There is a bar-restaurant in the next village 1km away, too.

He was challenged for accommodation after Orbanejo and walked from there all the way to Aguilar de Campoo - but there do seem to be options, if Google is to be believed.. I'd be interested to know if there is anything in Villanueva de la Nia, Asia breaks that distance up nicely.

 

[mla1]

And of course, Murphy's law, after the storm that turned me back, there have been no more today. I could've walked, but took the advisories very seriously.

Sounds like you made a very good decision! Hope the weather calms down for you and @LTfit both!

 

[WestKirsty]

I asked because @Sheffield James had stayed there

I see, this sounds like La Casa Grande: http://lacasagrandeburgos.es/informacion.html

The website is quite dated and when I contacted them they had no space for me When I get back I can find the email reply and see what they said exactly.

My next few days are to Orbaneja, then Polientes and then a long one to Aguilar. There used to be rooms above a bar in Villanueva but their website is gone now. I didn't call to ask, to be honest, as Polientes to Villanueva, would be a short day and nothing too exciting to do at the destination. I'd rather push on to Aguilar and then I'm planning a rest day there for sightseeing. That was my reasoning when planning anyway, we'll see how that works out!

When I get to Villanueva, I will ask

 

[VNwalking]

Wonderful.
I am sooooo looking forward to seeing and reading.
Happy dry walking to you, @WestKirsty !

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 7: Pesquera de Ebro to Orbaneja de Castillo (18km)

EDIT: Very slow Wifi here and no cell coverage so I've just got one photo to upload. I'll try again tomorrow. I have so many of Orbaneja!!

Wow. Just wow. This area, this route, this destination are just incredible! But I'll get to Orbaneja in a bit...

My original plan for today had been to take the longer, higher route following the GR99 up to Cortiguera and Valdelateja to take in the views before the route drops down to the river, crosses over and backs on itself. The same route Caminka took in 2012.

Well, if you read about yesterday, I wrote that I got a ride to Pesquera due to storms and was feeling a bit down about that. It's funny how things just seem to work out some times. On the drive we were talking about my route for today when David told me the bridge over the Ebro that you cross on the GR99 is down. Impassable. It was washed out 3 years ago and due to bureaucratic arguing there's no telling when it'll be fixed (sound familiar?). I'm so thankful for that conversation! It would have been incredibly frustrating to have had to turn back.

I talked to some locals last night and they confirmed that the bridge is still down so I had 2 options left - following a PR right from town down to the river, which eventually joins the GR99 at the downed bridge (~18km in total). Or, there's another route that heads north, passes through Turzo and approaches Orbaneja from above (~11km). I took the longer, canyon route.

It's an easy walk, flat and scenic. You're following the river through the canyon listening to occasional waterfalls, rapids, and birds chirping.

There were more storm warnings issued for the area starting at noon today but I made it to Orbaneja long before then. What an entrance to a village. What a village!!! I was speechless on arrival. The waterfall is powerful at the moment, thanks to all the rain. It's, just, wow.



I'm staying in Hotel La Puebla at the top of the village. It's 67€ - probably my most expensive night on any Camino - but worth it for a chance to stay here. They let me check in at 12:30 and breakfast is included so I'm doing my best to get my monies worth . Dinner is served here everyday except Wednesday, though cold food and snack are always available. I'm sitting on the terrace overlooking the town, listening to the waterfall, as I write this. It's a fabulous little spot.

There are other bars/restaurants in town but only one - Casa Estella - was open for lunch. I had a delicious menu del día. I suspect more will be open on the weekends and perhaps in July/August when it's full tourist season.

As I got here so early and the storms haven't materialized (yet?) I went for a walk along a trail above the town. The views are just something.

So a short but spectacular day!!

@BadPilgrim, you have options in terms of the route these few days. As yesterday and today both could be quite short, depending on the routes you take, you could combine them. But as it's such a scenic area I'm pleased to have time to be here, take it in and relax.

When I get to Aguilar I'll create another thread in the Viejo folder with route details, based on what I've done and think might be possible.

Hasta mañana!

 

[VNwalking]

We knew this route was special on the virtual Camino but it's clear it very much exceeds expectations. Just wonderful!

And so good to know about the bridge.
You wouldn't happen to have a track of what you did, would you?

When I get to Aguilar I'll create another thread in the Viejo folder with route details, based on what I've done and think might be possible.

This would be such a gift. Gracias!

 

[WestKirsty]

You wouldn't happen to have a track of what you did, would you?

Yes, I've been recording my tracks! I've had some issues with the app the last few days but I've got most of what I've walked recorded

 

[WestKirsty]

Back in cell coverage land and with proper wifi, here are some pics from yesterday.

First the route, easy trail but overgrown near the beginning and wet in part. And the downed bridge:



And some more pics of Orbaneja and the views from above:

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 8: Orbaneja de Castillo to Polientes (27.5km)

I had a late start today as (1) I wanted to take advantage of the included breakfast, and (2) I didn't want to leave!! After one last look at the waterfall, I dragged myself away from Orbaneja.

The GR 99 follows the river through the canyon, a continuation from yesterday. A nice easy (and pretty!) start to the day. I turned off to see the Ermita Rupestre del Tobazo and noted that there was also a waterfall there.

You could hear to falls from the trail. With all the storms/rain it's powerful and was an unexpected Wow! Yet another wow on this route. The pictures really do not do it any justice at all. It starts high, seemingly coming from the roots of trees and comes crashing down. The mist was refreshing.



I never found the ermita/cave there. Perhaps the falls were too strong or I was looking in the wrong place. At any rate, it's just a minute off the trail and what a diversion!

I was practically skipping down the trail after that. I decided to leave the 99 at Barrio Cascajar for the alternative @VNwalking suggested in the virtual thread. It also turns out that most of this alternative is another branch of the 99 so I was able to follow markings for much of this detour.

I followed the markings first to Arroyuellos and the ermita rupestre. I think this is the first I've seen of this kind of ermita and I was quite impressed! Even more so because the door was open and I could enter (donation box on the door). This one dates back to the 10th century.



Then I followed the markings on a pleasant route (combination of single track and dirt roads) to Santa Maria de Hito. Here, I left the route for an out and back visit to the Ermitorio de San Miguel. To be honest, I much preferred the one in Arroyuellos! Perhaps because I could go in that one, but San Miguel is also much brighter, less cave like. There is plexiglass covering the entrance way and "windows" as well as gates. There's a ladder to the upper openings but it seemed too smooth/slick to step onto the ermita to look in properly.



It also might have been the flies that were annoying me there. So. Many. Flies.

I walked back to Santa Maria where I picked up the 99 again. From here it's mostly single track through the forest. After the storms/rain it was pretty muddy and wet in parts and the flies . When you finally get out of the forest (maybe after 4-5km) you come to a nice opening and the view took me back to walking in England! A nice section.



I stopped in Rurrero for an ice cream break . There are 2 bars there and a water fountain. And above the town, what's left of a medieval tower.

This branch of the 99 heads north from here so I left it and took the road to a bridge, crossed the Ebro, and joined the other branch of the 99 - the more direct route from Orbaneja. It's another 5-6km from here through the forest on mostly single track again. Nice walking. Would have been nicer without all the flies.

Just a heads up that just as you get off the road and on to the forest path, at the end of Arenillas de Ebro, i encountered 4 dogs, off leash. Not vicious by any stretch. But 3 were quite territorial and not keen on me getting close to their home. The owner was home though, heard all the ruckus and brought them inside. The 4th, and biggest, was just a lonely old guy wanting a few scratches behind the ear!



I'm in Polientes tonight, Hostal Sanpatiel, 40€ ensuite room. Dated, but fine. Frustratingly, there's not yet a supermarket here. I had checked google maps and there a nice new one marked and saying open, but turns out construction on it isn't complete yet! But the hostel/bar has said they can make a bocadillo for me for tomorrow so that solves that problem. Something to keep in mind for others walking this way...check for food options and don't believe google.

Just one long day left on the Viejo and I'm actually quite sad about it! Even leaving the canyon today was a bit depressing - the area I just went through is a nature lovers paradise and the town's, almost too picturesque to believe they're real! It's been an amazing 8 days. Challenging at times, but what an adventure!

Slightly tempted to just turn around and walk it again...

 

[peregrina2000]

When I get to Aguilar I'll create another thread in the Viejo folder with route details,

Yes, I've been recording my tracks! I've had some issues with the app the last few days but I've got most of what I've walked recorded

Really loving this thread, because Pamplona to Aguilar oh so high on my dream list! I remember from your posts on your first chunk of this route that you forged some routes that put together bits and pieces of hiking routes to avoid the road. I remember something about rocjumper following the road and you finding some GR or local routes? (I remember this only because this looks like such a fabulous route and good tracks seem hard to find).

I have my fingers crossed that you might be able to post all those tracks on wikiloc. I see there is a WestKirsty2 on wikiloc with Viejo routes, which must be you!

You missed LT by one day, so sad! Thanks for adding to our scant knowledge about the Viejo, it is so great to have.

 

[WestKirsty]

Really loving this thread, because Pamplona to Aguilar oh so high on my dream list! I remember from your posts on your first chunk of this route that you forged some routes that put together bits and pieces of hiking routes to avoid the road. I remember something about rocjumper following the road and you finding some GR or local routes? (I remember this only because this looks like such a fabulous route and good tracks seem hard to find).

I have my fingers crossed that you might be able to post all those tracks on wikiloc.

I was with a friend on the first few days from Pamplona and she recorded the route on Wikiloc. When I get back from this trip, I'd be happy to put all the info and tracks together.

I was excited about this one and it still managed to exceed expectations!

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 9: Polientes to Aguilar de Campoo (~42km)

Last day on the Viejo and a long one to top it off. As usual with this route, there are options. My plan was to stay on the GR 99 - off the roads - to where it heads North in Villanueva de la Nia and then follow the road for a while to cut down on distance.

It started off well enough, easy, flat trail through the countryside. But things went south just after Rebollar de Ebro. The 99 goes across a road and I looked down at the marker and saw the trail was a bit overgrown, but nothing I haven't walked through before. It wasn't great walking but I kept thinking, it's just this patch, it'll be fine soon!

Then the trail cuts right down the middle of the 2 fields of crops. It was very overgrown here, well up to my waist in parts and wet ground, but still I figured, just this patch. I could see the marker ahead at a trail going into the forest.

It was a mud pit. @LTfit, I thought of your post the other day as I was poking my pole into the mud and realizing it was too deep to walk through. Well above my ankles, at least. I debated going back and finding another way but I really didn't want to go through that field again. And of course, it's just this patch, it'll be fine after.

I bushwhacked through the trees (not recommended) and got to the other side of the mudpit more or less unscathed. But then even more overgrown trail. The worst yet. I could've cried.

I checked my maps and noted that the 99 should cross a road soon, my escape! So I just went for it. When I got through my feet were sloshing water, my trousers up to just below my knees were soaked and as I would later feel, I got a lot of mosquito bites and my legs aren't looking so good. Not my best moment.

So I abandoned the 99 here and took to the roads.

Those following, I don't recommend the section of the 99 out of Polientes, certainly not after lots of rain.

It was about 17km to Villanueva de la Nia where everything was closed. I continued to follow the road to Santa Maria de Valverde where I stopped to see the Iglesia Rupestre. It, and the interpretive centre, were closed but you can still see inside. Another little gem in this area! There's also a water fountain here.



Then I used Caminka's tracks to get me to Aguilar de Campoo. The first part once you leave the road had me scratching my head a bit (overgrown) but then became clear. It was all pretty straightforward forward from here.

You do need to cross and walk along a national road for a short while, unpleasant for sure with semi trucks speeding by, but once you get off that it's just quite backcountry roads through little hamlets. And lots of lovely churches to look at.

I'm staying at Hostal Los Olmos for 2 nights (35€ per night for ensuite room). Not a bad option if you are staying 2 nights as it's reasonably priced. It's not in the centre though, but at the edge of the industrial park. This reduced today's walk by 1.5km had I stayed in the centre but will add to the day when I leave. But the math is in my favour this time.

So there it is. The Camino Viejo complete. I'm glad I have a day to process it all before the Olvidado. It was stunning at times, challenging at others. I was humbled by nature, both it's beauty and its power. I'm so very grateful that I was able to walk this. I loved it.

I'll write more thoughts tomorrow about practicalities and thoughts for others who want to walk this way. But for now a drink to toast the end of this leg of the trip, and then sleep

 

[WestKirsty]

I'd be interested to know if there is anything in Villanueva de la Nia, Asia breaks that distance up nicely.

@VNwalking so I went through Villanueva la Nia today and everything was closed this morning. It looks like there's a place to stay. I peaked through a window and it certainly didn't looked abandoned/closed down. There was no one around to ask.



I also noticed an information board for the region listing places to stay, eat and things to do and spotted this:



So there is hope for a Villanueva etapa!

 

[VNwalking]

So there is hope for a Villanueva etapa!

Woo hoo!!!
So happy to know that. Thank you for the info!

 

[VNwalking]

So there it is. The Camino Viejo complete. I'm glad I have a day to process it all before the Olvidado. It was stunning at times, challenging at others. I was humbled by nature, both it's beauty and its power. I'm so very grateful that I was able to walk this. I loved it

So well done! Congratulations!!
This camino exceeds expectations all around, from the sound of it.
So happy to have your report on the ground, Kirsty...gracias!

I just went for it. When I got through my feet were sloshing water, my trousers up to just below my knees were soaked and as I would later feel, I got a lot of mosquito bites and my legs aren't looking so good. Not my best moment.

Oyyyyyy. StayonthevroadStayonthevroadStayonthevroad!

I'll write more thoughts tomorrow about practicalities and thoughts for others who want to walk this way.

It sounds like that last 50km is even more thin on the ground as far as accommodation is concerned as the rest of the Viejo. I hope this changes! Either way it will be really valuable to have your info.

And opening times for churches?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Lesson learned: I will be walking on the road in this area if I ever get as far as you. I can't do mud, or soggy water up to my knees!

Congratulations to completing the Viejo and thanks for the daily info. I will throw a goat's eye at it, as we say over here, when I get to Pamplona (that is a compliment)!

 

[WestKirsty]

Here are some thoughts about this route for those planning on walking, based on what I've experienced late June, 2023:


Water Availability: I was pleased to find working fountains in most villages I went through. The only real water concern was on the long last day when taking the road, but you can see in my post for the day a fountain was found. *I had a few hot days walking and there are sections with no shade for a while so consider water needs depending on the weather. I carry one of these and fill it on the days that I know are going to be hot or when I don't know if they'll be water: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/6024-542/flux-1.5l-bottle


Food Availability: after Miranda de Ebro, the next proper (albeit small) supermarket was Trespaderne (Eroski City). Polientes should have a supermarket soon though until the new one opens there's just a sweet shop for supplies for the walk. Quintana Martín and Oña have small stores/bars where limited food can be purchased (bread, biscuits, fruit).
There are bars/restaurants everywhere I stayed except Dobro - if you stay at the Casa Rural, you can arrange for dinner in advance, which I recommend as there aren't any other options that I saw in that area.
I was glad I had lots of granola bars and trail mix with me as they kept me going during the day until I got to my final destination.


Trail Conditions: the GR99 is well marked and generally in very good condition (with the exception of the last day after Polientes). There was a lot of rain, mixed with sun when I was walking and locals were all mentioning how this led to a lot of vegetation growth. Nice wild flowers, but overgrown in parts. I learned after the first day to wear long trousers. Lots of nettles and thorns. I also had 2 locals tell me, on separate occasions, to be careful of ticks.


Solitary Trail: in 8 days of walking I didn't see a single person on the trail. Obviously no pilgrims, but neither any day use walkers nor cyclists nor dog walkers near the villages, which I've experienced on other routes. You're walking through the Valle de las Merindades, which I was told is roughly the same size as the Basque Country. But whereas the Basque Country has a population of nearly 2.2 million people, the Valle has about 2000. It is sparsely populated, though I was also told that this number will swell in the summer months as city dwellers head to their family homes in the country.
All this to say that, particularly outside of high season, be prepared to be on your own!


Cell/Mobile Coverage: from day 2 to day 8 there were hours of each walk during which I had no cell coverage. In Dobro and Pesquera de Ebro there was also very spotty coverage. Download maps you will need in advance!


Safety: I used to be an emergency planner so this kind of thing is not far from my mind (forgive me!). Given the last 2 points - solitary trail and no cell coverage - I made a point of messaging a friend each morning with my planned route (ie. Which GR or PR I was planning on taking) and my destination for the day. I would check in when I arrived safely. In the unlikely event that I ran into problems on the trail, at least someone knew where to start looking for me!
If for some reason you do need to leave the area, I noted a bus stop in Trespaderne and then nothing until day 8, after you leave the Canyon. Outside of Trespaderne, no taxis. I imagine you could arrange one if necessary and willing to pay!


Navigation: I was on the GR99 for most of the walk but used several other trails/roads to get from A to B. I used both mapy.cz and wikiloc. As mentioned, the 99 is well signed. However, unlike established Camino routes where diversions are often figured out for you when needed, that's not been my experience with GR routes. This is where mapy.cz was invaluable. It's very easy to use - think Google Maps but with hiking trails also loaded! When I learned that the path was impassable (downed bridge) or got to a particularly muddy section, I could open up the app and look at all the roads and trails in the area and reroute.
I had Wikiloc running in the background to record my walk and beep at me when I was going the "wrong" way according to my planned trail so I didn't have to keep my phone in my hand all day. When it beeped at me, I opened mapy.cz


Power bank: I used my phone a lot during this route, between recording trails, figuring out where I was and taking a lot of photos!! I had a power bank with me, which while adding weight, was appreciated. On the final day in particular, between Villanueva de la Nía and Aguilar there are no markers to follow of any kind so using the phone to navigate was essential.


Accommodations: this was a more expensive Camino than others I've walked (but oh so worth it!) with prices ranging from 14€ (Albergue in Oña) to 67€ (Orbaneja de Castillo). I booked them in advance as I didn't really know what conditions would be like. Most places were quiet but I would definitely call/book ahead during weekends (when some places might have 2 night minimums) and during the summer months. For example, I would imagine the hotel in Orbanjeo de Castillo fills up in the summer. I heard lots of different languages that day and it was midweek in June! There aren't really many options in parts, particularly between Trespaderne and Polientes.


I'll add anything here as more comes to mind! I've put my accommodation list in a separate thread and I'll do the same for route information.

 

[WestKirsty]

And opening times for churches?

The interpretive centre for the Santa Maria de Valverde is only open weekends and holidays from 10:00-14:00. The church itself just had Sunday Mass times on the door so I'm not sure if it's open for visits.



I didn't try going into any of the other Churches I saw on route. To be honest, they were in pretty sparsely populated areas so I'd be surprised if there were regular opening times outside of mass. Maybe you could contact the ayuntamiento of the ones you're interested in before you go and ask?

 

[peregrina2000]

Cell/Mobile Coverage: from day 2 to day 8 there were hours of each walk during which I had no cell coverage. In Dobro and Pesquera de Ebro there was also very spotty coverage. Download maps you will need in advance!

@WestKirsty, which cell phone company do you use? On our recent Lana, @C clearly’s Movistar Sim had better coverage than mine. In at least 3 or 4 towns, I had no coverage (or had to walk to the secret spot indicated by the locals for vodafone users), and she had cobertura.

 

[VNwalking]

The reaction to all that good information is a huge understatement, Kirsty. Thanks so much!

This is the one thing in there that I don't like to hear:

I also had 2 locals tell me, on separate occasions, to be careful of ticks.

Just

 

[WestKirsty]

@WestKirsty, which cell phone company do you use? On our recent Lana, @C clearly’s Movistar Sim had better coverage than mine. In at least 3 or 4 towns, I had no coverage (or had to walk to the secret spot indicated by the locals for vodafone users), and she had cobertura.

I use Vodafone, which may be part of the problem.

Although, I had a good long chat with the owner of a Casa Rural and he mentioned that his guests are always commenting on the lack of coverage. He said it's due to the terrain (there are some narrow canyons) and lack of cell towers as there are so few people living in some parts. Dobro has a population of 14, Pesquera de Ebro, 19, and Orbaneja ~40.

I suspect now that my issues might of been due to a combination of all these factors. I'd just hate for someone not to be prepared for such a possibility! I felt quite isolated at times on this one, more so than other routes.

 

[WestKirsty]

The reaction to all that good information is a huge understatement, Kirsty. Thanks so much!

Thank you so much for the virtual thread and suggesting it to me! It was a really special one and 9 days I won't soon forget!

I'm on the Olvidado now but keep thinking back to the Viejo...

 

[mla1]

On our recent Lana, @C clearly’s Movistar Sim had better coverage than mine. In at least 3 or 4 towns, I had no coverage (or had to walk to the secret spot indicated by the locals for vodafone users), and she had cobertura.

In April and May I used the Airalo e-sim and it uses Movistar. I was almost never without coverage (on the Camino de Madrid, the last 7 days of the Olvidado and the Invierno). I don't know if Airalo explicitly hooks up with the carrier with the most coverage - but in this case it was good!