LIVE from the Camino CaminoDebrita on the Camino

[CaminoDebrita]

I find myself back on Camino, after six strange years, and what an experience. It's like riding a bike. Everything comes back. The placing of walking sticks in an unobtrusive way against a corner wall, The pack in front, holding them up. The coffees, the early fast breakfasts, the attention to details--like my feet.

They are holding up better than I expected. Typically, I hike in a Vasque boot no matter what, or a Salomon trail runner, but this time around I'm in a pair of Brooks. They are working out. A week ago, back home in Oregon, I dropped a ladder on my left foot, and it fell across my big toe. I screamed a word not supported on the forum, but the first letter of it matches forum. Let's just say that.

The Litoral? the first day was funny. I walked from the hotel where I stayed, Decanting Porto, to the Cathedral. There I met many sweet pilgrims, including a young woman waiting for friends. "Have you figured out which stairwell to walk down"? I asked. "No," she smiled nervously. A Japanese guy came running up to me as I was en route to the Cathedra, "Can I follow you?" he asked. Sure, I said, but sometimes I don't always get to where I'm going, so be warned. We walked straight there.

I ignored many arrows and shells that would have placed me on the Central, and found my way down to the river. All the boats, smells, sights, tourist boats, and colorful tourist shops! I decided to follow my phone's map to route myself to McDonald's, as I knew I'd need a coke with ice, and the WC, old lady that I am. Imagine my surprise to see a dapper gentleman in red attire with a bald eagle on the Mickey D railing. I love birds, as some of you know. We had a great chat, and I tried to give him a few euro for bird food, but he said he is hired by McDonald's to be there with Paco, his bald eagle. Very impressive.

The heat has been hard on me. I'm using my Glide on my entire body, ha ha! No blisters, no sunburn, no chafing, no heatrash. But wow, walking the litoral is an exposed experience. Friday will be even warmer. It's nothing but blue skies now!

My first day, I made it to Matosinhos, exhausted. Remember--I've been a cancer chick for a few years, and I'm building myself back up. Then today, I made it to Vila do Condo. I can't claim entirely by my own volition! I had walked and walked and walked, as we pilgrims do, until I got to a restaurant at the beach. I went in and had a pilgrim's menu. The handsome young men there were so sweet, bringing me extra starters and just being so kind.

After half a sandwich and a glass of lemonade, I did not have the oomph in me to walk several more miles, so got a taxi and settled in here. Tomorrrow my plan is to get an earlier start, so I can avoid some of that heat. It's just very exposed, I'm finding. Long sleeves feel oppressive. Tank top feels too exposed, despite slathering on sun screen, which melts to goo on my skin.

I'm having a wonderful time, and happy to be here, however! Lovely to be on Camino after way too long.

xxooDeb

 

[Tincatinker]

Go well Deb

 

[VNwalking]

Paco, Glide, sweet wait help...and just one foot on front of the other. Ah, so pleased to read of your small joys on the Camino. Thank you for posting such a vivid picture for those of us at home.

Buen camino, peregrina - may the heat be less oppressive and your feet have wings!

 

[peregrina2000]

So great to see this post! Very happy to see you again, Deb. I remember that on your last walk, you were one of my three peregrina friends on the camino whom I asked to light candles for my mom while she was dying. It was a real comfort to me to know that somehow my mom had a camino connection.

It sounds like you’ve had a rough patch, and I can well imagine how wonderful (if exhausting) it feels to be back! Wishing you the very best camino.

I echo VN’s sentiments (another one of the candle-lighters!) and am looking forward to following along.

 

[naplesdon]

Great to see you back. Are you going coastal the whole way or skipping over for a stop at Casa Fernanda?

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Great to see you back. Are you going coastal the whole way or skipping over for a stop at Casa Fernanda?

I don't know, friend! I have heard good things. Tell me all about it!

 

[HumanistHiker]

If you don't go to Casa Fernanda, Estabulo de Valinhas is about 1km up the road and is still my favourite accommodation so far on the Camino.

 

[naplesdon]

I am surprised you did not hear other comments about Casa Fernanada. She puts together a wonderful communal meal, there is plenty of homemade wine and music in the evening. Lots of pilgrims will suggest making a reservation, I don't know if that is necessary in October. The issue is crossing over from the Coastal Route. She is between Barcelos and Ponte do Lima on the Central Route. I have seen suggestions about walking from Esposende to Barcelos or taking a right turn in Viana do Castelo and walking to Ponte do Lima and then back tracking several hours to get there. Maybe someone else will chime in with suggestions. Her number is: +351 914 589 521

 

[CaminoDebrita]

I am surprised you did not hear other comments about Casa Fernanada. She puts together a wonderful communal meal, there is plenty of homemade wine and music in the evening. Lots of pilgrims will suggest making a reservation, I don't know if that is necessary in October. The issue is crossing over from the Coastal Route. She is between Barcelos and Ponte do Lima on the Central Route. I have seen suggestions about walking from Esposende to Barcelos or taking a right turn in Viana do Castelo and walking to Ponte do Lima and then back tracking several hours to get there. Maybe someone else will chime in with suggestions. Her number is: +351 914 589 521

Thank you! To be honest, I do very little research. I know, I’m bad. I like the community of the forum, but when I’m walking, I am a solo operator, and tend to be somewhat oddly reclusive. I’m getting close to my destination today, and I will take a look and see what my next plan is. I appreciate you.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Hey everyone! wow, it was so hot today. I was on the Coastal route from Esponsende to Viana Do Castelo. It was shocking how hot it was, to the degree that I felt 'just this side' of heat stroke, so I went slow. I recall a lovely walk through a Eucalyptus forest, some ups and downs with some rocks to navigate, but finally I have a use --on Camino Coastal--for my trusty hiking poles! A flowing river was to my right, and as things opened up, a great swimming spot was right there, next to a large closed up building. A monument to a four-year-old who had drowned was there too, which was a sad thing to see. Happens so fast.
I met a nice Norwegian man, a Swedish couple, and another woman who was on her way off around the time I arrived. I got my shoes and socks off and ran to get into that lovely water. It was heavenly. The sweet Swedish woman was able to strip down to next to nothing and had a more generous swim. We all relaxed and chatted, then found that the woman who had left had also left her sunglasses, and the Norwegian gentleman asked me to try to find her to give them to her. No problem. I met her on the trail fifteen minutes later, as she walked back toward me, having run into the Norwegian guy.
The coolness of the water helped for a short time, then up the hill became insufferable again, and I began developing that slightly light-headed feeling....so stumbled into town and went to a bar. there, I got two Lipton Iced tea drinks with lots of ice, and had a delicious grilled sandwich. The waitress and her boss were lovely people, and her english was amazing. She told me she didn't know how anyone could walk today--as it was that hot.
I took a taxi for the reminder of the day, but had clocked six walking hours in that weather, so am still feeling knackered. But better!
I had the pleasure of walking to dinner tonight--about 30 minutes to a very decent restaurant with rather elevator-music tunes playing. I ate a pizza, salad, two more iced teas, and some mango ice cream! wow. amazing,.
I never thought I would hope for rain on Camino. I understand it's coming on Thursday.

xxoo

 

[goose03celtic19]

I find myself back on Camino, after six strange years, and what an experience. It's like riding a bike. Everything comes back. The placing of walking sticks in an unobtrusive way against a corner wall, The pack in front, holding them up. The coffees, the early fast breakfasts, the attention to details--like my feet.

They are holding up better than I expected. Typically, I hike in a Vasque boot no matter what, or a Salomon trail runner, but this time around I'm in a pair of Brooks. They are working out. A week ago, back home in Oregon, I dropped a ladder on my left foot, and it fell across my big toe. I screamed a word not supported on the forum, but the first letter of it matches forum. Let's just say that.

The Litoral? the first day was funny. I walked from the hotel where I stayed, Decanting Porto, to the Cathedral. There I met many sweet pilgrims, including a young woman waiting for friends. "Have you figured out which stairwell to walk down"? I asked. "No," she smiled nervously. A Japanese guy came running up to me as I was en route to the Cathedra, "Can I follow you?" he asked. Sure, I said, but sometimes I don't always get to where I'm going, so be warned. We walked straight there.

I ignored many arrows and shells that would have placed me on the Central, and found my way down to the river. All the boats, smells, sights, tourist boats, and colorful tourist shops! I decided to follow my phone's map to route myself to McDonald's, as I knew I'd need a coke with ice, and the WC, old lady that I am. Imagine my surprise to see a dapper gentleman in red attire with a bald eagle on the Mickey D railing. I love birds, as some of you know. We had a great chat, and I tried to give him a few euro for bird food, but he said he is hired by McDonald's to be there with Paco, his bald eagle. Very impressive.

The heat has been hard on me. I'm using my Glide on my entire body, ha ha! No blisters, no sunburn, no chafing, no heatrash. But wow, walking the litoral is an exposed experience. Friday will be even warmer. It's nothing but blue skies now!

My first day, I made it to Matosinhos, exhausted. Remember--I've been a cancer chick for a few years, and I'm building myself back up. Then today, I made it to Vila do Condo. I can't claim entirely by my own volition! I had walked and walked and walked, as we pilgrims do, until I got to a restaurant at the beach. I went in and had a pilgrim's menu. The handsome young men there were so sweet, bringing me extra starters and just being so kind.

After half a sandwich and a glass of lemonade, I did not have the oomph in me to walk several more miles, so got a taxi and settled in here. Tomorrrow my plan is to get an earlier start, so I can avoid some of that heat. It's just very exposed, I'm finding. Long sleeves feel oppressive. Tank top feels too exposed, despite slathering on sun screen, which melts to goo on my skin.

I'm having a wonderful time, and happy to be here, however! Lovely to be on Camino after way too long.

xxooDeb

Respect your an inspiration. I’ll be following your progress.
Fingers crossed I’ll be doing the same walk next year. Keep enjoying yourself

 

[HumanistHiker]

Mmm mango ice cream - very well earned by the sounds of it.

You're braver than me going for a paddle in the stream - I'd be afraid of falling in and soaking my phone, passport etc, or that the water isn't clean. (Maybe Portuguese water companies are better than English ones in not pumping unmentionable stuff into the waterways).

When it's this hot, unless there is some good medical reason for which you've been advised not to, I suggest you do as I've been doing and take a Dioralyte or similar rehydration potion every day routinely, rather than waiting for the light headed feeling/headache/churning stomach. Heat exhaustion sucks!

 

[VNwalking]

Walking in the heat...not easy! I'm glad you're playing it safe. One thing I do that helps momentarily is to ask for some ice when leaving a bar, stick it in my hat, then.stick the hat on my head. Voila: AC for about 15 minutes.

 

[peregrina2000]

some mango ice cream! wow. amazing,.

If you get the chance, try the mango mousse. It’s equally delicious, IMHO. Portugal has the BEST mangoes — they usually come from the former African colonies, I’ve been told, which might explain why there isn’t such a good mango pipeline in Spain. At least none that I’ve found.

Sounds like a real scorcher, Deb, glad you are making it manageable.

 

[Wooz]

Sounds like you are finding your way and making the Camino your own with tips from friends. Congrats on battling back to return. Will be following along as a fellow mango lover. I'll be walking in memory of walks with my dad and he loved ice cream so putting the two together will be perfect! Thanks for the tip!

 

[jalluisi]

If you don't go to Casa Fernanda, Estabulo de Valinhas is about 1km up the road and is still my favourite accommodation so far on the Camino.

We stayed at Estabulo Valinhas last year and it was wonderful. The host also made us a delicious meal.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

We made it to Vila Praia de Ancora yesterday! I say 'we' because I met a fellow forum member--whose name I won't mention--and we had a chat while sitting on a rock somewhere. We ended up walking together, until we pulled over at an albergue. There is a lack of bars on Camino Coastal de Portugal, I've found. Not to criticize--but to compare--the CF has a bar every five kilometers, it seems. Not so the case here. Fortunately, the water fountains along the way are a godsend!

So, at the albergue, my plan was to get a taxi and move forward five miles to the destination, as the heat was not doing me any favors. As it turns out, they were all busy getting other pilgrims out of the heat. There is another 'high heat' warning on my phone today. Oh---and the walk yesterday? through eucalyptus forest, along beautiful brooks.
My friend wondered if the stones along the walk were old, set by the Romans. Lots of big rock.

I was struggling to make it into Ancora, but my Camino friend was very kind to walk with me, and as my phone had died, walked me to my hotel.

I tallied the fluids I consumed yesterday---64 oz water, 16 oz beer (that was last), 32 oz juice, 8 oz diet coke. And I took a bath in one of the fountains! Well, a shower. I filled my water jug and just poured it over myself repeatedly. It was great!

Upon arrival to Ancora, we hit the supermarket on the way into town, and friend bought a beautiful, hot out of the oven long baguette--wow, and even on a Sunday.

I got a pack of bagels, some Elemental cheese and an orange, and devoured all after a refreshing shower.

My Camino buddy and I have agreed a short walk today is in the cards.

 

[Kirkie]

It is delightful, from the metaphorical armchair, to follow you. Mind yourself. Of course, as the translation fromSpanish is, profit the moment, but just breathe in and breathe out, there is no assurance beyond that one breath!

 

[VNwalking]

Hoping the walk was a wee bit cooler than yesterday! Short is good. The other thing that's good is that it's October rather than May - so the heat can only get less intense. Meteoblue tells me by Friday it will be lots more comfortable.

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Thank you, my friends! Today was a much shorter day, as I only walked to Caminha. It was such fun to walk around the town! I have several friends. Vidar from Norway, Frank from Germany. Dieter from Germany. Michelle and Mike from England. Rachel from Maine. Andrea from Wisconsin. It's lovely to have friendly faces here and there. Such a gracious thing to have someone say a truly happy hello!

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Yesterday temps were a bit more reasonable, but still very warm. This morning in Baiona, I've woken up to very steady and fairly intense rain! No in betweens on this Camino.

 

[JillGat]

Hi Deb! Will you be going through Pedra Furada? Don't miss the mysterious hole in the rock. Edited to say I looked at the map and you are well past that. Oh well! Nice to follow along!

 

[CaminoMonique]

I am watching your Camino and admiring your resilience! It will be a beautiful Camino!

I’ve heard similar accounts about the lack of bars in the Coastal part in Portugal. I wonder if that eventually will change as that is becoming (slowly) a more popular route!

 

[CaminoDebrita]

Yesterday, 20 October, I walked into Santiago. It was very odd to walk in from the Camino Porto direction, as I usually walk in down the stairs from the Camino Frances direction!

I was walking in with people I met very recently--a 73-year-old Catholic woman who has had a fascinating career as a nurse, and has good humor and a cool personality. She was so eager to walk in. I teased her, asking her if she'd like to stop for a coffee on the way to the Cathedral. With serious eyes, she looked at me and said, "I'd really like to get there." Ha ha! I'm bad. Of course, arriving to the square was delightful.

This is the very first time I've seen the Cathedral without that ugly frame around it, for the cleaning purposes. Remember--I haven't been here since perhaps '17? A lot of water under this old bridge, let me tell you!

I always think I'll want to stay for several days in SDC. I've learned that two nights is more than enough. Actually, two nights is perfect. I'll go donate my umbrella and poles to Nate and Faith tomorrow, if they're open, and try to tidy up my belongings and get packed up to fly to Madrid tomorrow.

My dear friend is advising me to head to town to get the churros and chocolate, and hit a tapas bar, but as a solo traveler--who is also quite exhausted now---I think I'll get a hotel near the airport and stay cozy and warm.

This was a Camino of weather extremes, and I of course made adjustments and have survived and thrived!

Buen Camino <3

 

[SabsP]

Congrats! And happy dance to you @CaminoDebrita !
Whatever you decide on your hotel : there will be a choice for tapas!

 

[senora1]

Thanks for the good report Debrita. I’ve also done CF several times and recently decided to walk the coastal CP next year so I really enjoyed following you. Congratulations and well done

 

[HumanistHiker]

Well done @CaminoDebrita! You made it!

 

[CaminoMonique]

Yesterday, 20 October, I walked into Santiago. It was very odd to walk in from the Camino Porto direction, as I usually walk in down the stairs from the Camino Frances direction!

I was walking in with people I met very recently--a 73-year-old Catholic woman who has had a fascinating career as a nurse, and has good humor and a cool personality. She was so eager to walk in. I teased her, asking her if she'd like to stop for a coffee on the way to the Cathedral. With serious eyes, she looked at me and said, "I'd really like to get there." Ha ha! I'm bad. Of course, arriving to the square was delightful.

This is the very first time I've seen the Cathedral without that ugly frame around it, for the cleaning purposes. Remember--I haven't been here since perhaps '17? A lot of water under this old bridge, let me tell you!

I always think I'll want to stay for several days in SDC. I've learned that two nights is more than enough. Actually, two nights is perfect. I'll go donate my umbrella and poles to Nate and Faith tomorrow, if they're open, and try to tidy up my belongings and get packed up to fly to Madrid tomorrow.

My dear friend is advising me to head to town to get the churros and chocolate, and hit a tapas bar, but as a solo traveler--who is also quite exhausted now---I think I'll get a hotel near the airport and stay cozy and warm.

This was a Camino of weather extremes, and I of course made adjustments and have survived and thrived!

Buen Camino <3

Congratulations! Loved reading your reports!

 

[VNwalking]

What a walk, weather-wise! I hope once you got to Santiago, you could see the beautifully restored Portico de Gloria, too.

fly to Madrid tomorrow.

Safe journey, Deb, and a well-deserved rest!

 

[Kirkie]

Yesterday, 20 October, I walked into Santiago. It was very odd to walk in from the Camino Porto direction, as I usually walk in down the stairs from the Camino Frances direction!

I was walking in with people I met very recently--a 73-year-old Catholic woman who has had a fascinating career as a nurse, and has good humor and a cool personality. She was so eager to walk in. I teased her, asking her if she'd like to stop for a coffee on the way to the Cathedral. With serious eyes, she looked at me and said, "I'd really like to get there." Ha ha! I'm bad. Of course, arriving to the square was delightful.

This is the very first time I've seen the Cathedral without that ugly frame around it, for the cleaning purposes. Remember--I haven't been here since perhaps '17? A lot of water under this old bridge, let me tell you!

I always think I'll want to stay for several days in SDC. I've learned that two nights is more than enough. Actually, two nights is perfect. I'll go donate my umbrella and poles to Nate and Faith tomorrow, if they're open, and try to tidy up my belongings and get packed up to fly to Madrid tomorrow.

My dear friend is advising me to head to town to get the churros and chocolate, and hit a tapas bar, but as a solo traveler--who is also quite exhausted now---I think I'll get a hotel near the airport and stay cozy and warm.

This was a Camino of weather extremes, and I of course made adjustments and have survived and thrived!

Buen Camino <3

So happy to see this post, and I wish you a happy time. Safe trip home. Congratulations, I guess you must feel immensely proud. If not, why not?