Sandy Briggs
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- First Camino this September 2015 - SJPD to Santiago
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It is my desire to camp along the way and stay in a hostel to take a shower and wash clothes every few days. I have limited time off work and will need to hike at least 20 miles a day to complete the 500 miles in the time I have.
Sandy,
Being from Idaho, it sounds like you are approaching this like a backpacking trip. I did too. That mindset almost ruined my Camino (mostly because I took footwear for backpacking, not for what was required by the Camino). For a fuller explanation, see my post https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...id-not-for-a-summer-camino.31137/#post-269857
To your questions. First, camping is not generally legal along most of the Camino. Once you see the amount of poop and paper behind every hedge and tree, you will understand why. We saw one couple doing it, but it is not really necessary. Albuergues are cheap, 5-10E per night, and with the Euro on par with the Dollar, save yourself the weight, and gift yourself with the social opportunities of the albuergues. That is where you are going to meet, and keep reconnecting with, your Camino family.
Second, starting in SJPP and walking over the mountains is a great way to start, and coming from Idaho, you will not think they are mountains at all. Foothills at best.
Third, I saw no one fishing in the rivers, not even locals. I'm not sure if it was illegal, or just that there were no fish.
Fourth, 20 miles (32kms) a day is aggressive and I saw only the young college-age kids doing it on a day-after-day basis. Again, this is not a five-night backpacking trip--the continual wear and tear on feet and muscles requires a very different approach, much more like the AT or PCT (without the pack weight). If you get caught short of time, here is my suggestion copied from another thread with a few edits:
I would not skip the meseta (Burgos to Leon)--that was very meditative walking for me. I would, however, skip the cities. The concrete and asphalt of the cities killed my feet, and I did not find the urban areas that spiritually or visually nourishing. The cathedrals are architectural wonders (although touristy), so you might bus in, see them, then bus out. Some people do not like this approach as it seems their spiritual lesson is to keep walking, even through areas that are not pretty or uplifting. My spiritual lesson is that suffering is optional. Everyone is at their own place. I think you'll figure out what you need to do for yourself as you walk.
If you do decide to skip the urban areas, often you can just use the metro buses--take them from the first place they appear into the city center, then back out again (we did that out of Leon and should have done it into Pamplona (except the bus was completely filled with San Fermin celebrants)).
Specifically, I would do this around Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, and definitely Ponferrada (which I found to be a gang-tag filled urban mess). Logrono is a nice walk, both in and out. For Ponferrada catch the bus or taxi in Molinaseca--the walk from there is all concrete and asphalt. We then took a taxi to just the next hamlet outside the city, and started walking again. For Leon we took the bus from Mules and then the metro bus to Virgin del Camino.
Finally, there is a nasty bit of road walking after Villafranca Bierzo (spelling of all city names is approximate) just as you are re-entering the mountains. From there, I highly recommend the "high route," which was steep but the nicest day of walking we had (take extra water). If you do not do that (and no other pilgrim did it the day we walked), you will be walking by a busy highway separated by a concrete barrier. That is bad enough (and I would take the high route or a taxi--I would not walk the low route), but then, just after Trabelo, the barrier ends, and you are walking with rather large trucks whizzing by within a couple of meters of you with no protection. I consider walking that section to be the most foolish, dangerous thing I have done in years. If (when) I walk it again, I would definitely take a taxi through this section. Start walking again at Las Herrerias, where the Camino turns on to a much smaller road.
If you take buses/taxis around those 4 cities and the section after Villafranca (and if you need to make up time, the whole section from Molinaseca to Las Herrerias), I hope you will have time to start in SJPP and walk the meseta and everything else except the urban areas. Should I ever be fortunate enough to have time to walk the Frances again, that is how I would do it, even if not pressed for time (I could always use the extra time to go to Finisterre and Muxia).
Some would express concern about leaving behind your Camino family (you may do that anyway at 20 miles a day). This is a real concern--they become your support network while you are doing the most physically demanding thing you have probably ever done. My experience doing what I have described is that these little jumps around urban areas did not result in losing them. Perhaps it was because my badly mangled feet (another thread) limited my kms/day, but I found that we kept connecting and reconnecting with our family. YMMV.
Buen Camino,
Jo Jo
Hi, Sandy!
Welcome to the Forum - you've come to the right place to get answers to your questions.
I agree with Jo-Jo. I think you have to get out of the mind set that the Camino is a backpacking trip.
It isn't.
I didn't encounter anyone who camped the entire way. Camping spots aren't as available as you seem to think. I did not see any pilgrims fishing along the way. I did see some locals, about three times, fishing catch-and-release.
Your planned distances may be challenging. First, start thinking in kilometers rather than miles (I'm from NY). Get your guidebook (most English speakers I encountered had the Brierly) and let it give you an idea of what you'll encounter.
I walked my first Camino, solo, from SJPdP ((Saint Jean Pied de Port) to SdC (Santiago de Campostelle) when I was on the other side of 60 y.o. It was the adventure of a lifetime. So much so that I'm doing it again in about a month - starting even further out!
The more you hang around here in the Forum, the more questions you'll have. Don't get overwhelmed. You can do it!!! This is going to be GREAT!!
Buen Camino
kathy
Hi Sandy, I met a lot of pilgrims who hiked about 20 miles a day. (Well, they SAID they were doing 30 to 40 kms each day, but I only met them once) So no problem, go for it, and you can walk the entire route without busing any of it. But you really do not need the tent. There are lots of cheap places to stay and you’ll meet some interesting people to spend the evening with in those places, even though you may never see them again. And if you decide to slow down, the camino will always be there for you to go back and finish it another year. Jill
Hello Sandy,Thank you, Jo Jo. I hope I am replying in the right section, my first reply. Guess I'll go where the cursor sends me. I was very interested to read your reply and thought it contained some very sound thoughts and concerns. I too, like the country versus the cities. I have visited Burgos and Paploma on a previous holiday so I know what you are talking about, although the cathedral in Burgos was magnificent. I had heard the hostels were much more expensive than your quote above so I was planning on camping to save more money and time. I see now that perhaps taking the trip in a short period of time does not support some of the benefits of walking the Camino. Therefore, I will decide to do half of the Camino this trip and go back and finish the other half at a later time. This will allow me to walk a much more "Camino-like" pace and gain new friends along the way. To meet a friend and never see them again would be terrible. I'd like to get to know the special ones a little longer. Breaking the trip up will give me that opportunity.
Sorry to hear about the fishing. I might bring my rod just in case I spy a trout rising to a fly. Did you walk along water during the journey? What percentage would you imagine that was? I have seen very few photos of water along the route.
The only thing I was interested in still was the weather. Am I going to roast in late August, early September???
Thanks so much for your time and help with my Camino journey planning. I appreciate you more than you know.
Sandy
Hi Sandy. I waited a few years to do it with my husband when he retired and I am glad I did. He has been my rock of support throughout my training. Whenever I tell someone what I am about to do they invariably all have a start of surprise and then they paint on a smile and start asking questions, listen to my reply and shake their heads in wonderment that I am considering doing something .... so .... epic ... at my age ... at my fitness level ... I have gotten used to it but I know what they are thinking ... it's what I think in the deep moments of self doubt I get from time to time ... she (I) am out of my blooming mind! But not my husband ... he knows how much I want to do this no matter how far I get (or not as the case may be) and his encouragment means the world to me ... that said ... there are still moments when I wish I had gone as soon as the bug hit me ... still moments where I resent not going when I was 55 instead of 58 ... that I didn't wait for him to retire ... when my knees were a little stronger and my weight a little less ...still moments where I mourn the idea of me all by myself just this once ... setting out to do something epic ... based on nothing more than my inner strength ... meeting new friends that I may not meet with my husband since I am so comfortable in the bubble we create around ourselves when we walk ... it is a choice ... to walk alone or with others ... and each choice has consequences. I am walking with my husband this May and it is the absolute right choice for me ... we are a team and we always will be. He is my rock and my support. He is my cheerleader and partner ... I think this time on this adventure, I am his inspiration ... I am SO glad I waited ... but still, every once and a while ... ... make sure you are comfortable in your choice ... I am ... but still ... some day ... after this Camino ... I might try it again ... all by myself ... if I like it, and I suspect I will
Hello Sandy,
I would second your idea of walking half now, and coming back for the second half at another time. Not only because it will give you a much better appreciation for this experience, but because it will inhabit you until you return and that will bring you a lot of joy as you plan, dream, wonder. And you will be much kinder to your body.
Regarding water along the Camino: very few rivers and where there are some they have very little water running through them. I can think of arriving in Zubiri, Molinaseca, arriving in Melide. Anyone else? Oh, the one where the Italians love the San Nicolas Ermita. Eh, if fishing is your thing, considering that fishing rods weight nothing these days: go for it!
Finally, regarding the weather, as you know, weather being what it is it is not 100% predictable but do treat late August - early September was warm, though not scortching hot (except in peak hours perhaps of on exceptional days). Mornings may be coolish, so a light fleece might be nice to have, but to sleep a liner will be fine. Just think if layering in case of a bit of fresh air. You may get days of rain, so plan for that as well, but also bring a hat and / or sunscreen. I have had Caminos during which I expected lovely weather and got cold and mud, and the last one when I expected rain and cold and got dry and hot weather (oh the smell of my synthetic cloathing! - Eurk!)
Ah, you mention the price of hostels. Be mindful of the vocabulary: albergues are the dorms that cater mostly exclusively to pilgrims. They run from "donativo" - giving what you can, which does not mean free and often provide us with so much more than others - to 5-8 or 10 euros a night, some with some sort of breakfast, others not. Then there are hostales or pensiones: I would compare those to basic, non-victorian, not so pretty B&Bs with rooms for 2 people in general, with common bathrooms or private ones for a bit more money. But the vast majority of pilgrims use Albergues, heading to a hostal or pension here and there when they want a bath, or to have a night of sleep with less snoring (but be careful, walls can be thin and you can hear snoring across the wall!)
My advice to you is to get your hands on one of the many guide books. In there you will see maps with rivers and all the albergues en route with prices.
Enjoy your planing!
If you had a choice between September and June, which would you pick?
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