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I don't know. I suspect that you are at least as much of a legend on the forum as any old dog.That old mastiff in Villavieja is more of a legend than any of the forum members already
Well, Not talking about the forum but InviernoI don't know. I suspect that you are at least as much of a legend on the forum as any old dog.
Thank you Caryn,Day 2 Medulas
Woke to a beautiful Sunday morning. My room at the Complejo Rural Agoga has a balcony with a stunning view.
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Sitting there late afternoon the day before I was amazed at the steady stream of folks heading up the trails. The town was so busy when I arrived - the parking area at the entrance was packed with tour buses. Found out that late afternoon / early afternoon is a very popular time to go to the Mirador Orellán because of the light.
Sunday morn 7am all was quiet (other than glorious birdsong) as I headed out to explore the lower trails. I only met a woman and then a couple walking their dogs in the 3 hours or so that I was out. A spectacular morning.
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Back in town for breakfast and all still quite quiet. I wandered about the town after breakfast. Had a couple of nice chats with people working in their gardens. Discovered that there is no longer a grocery store in town. You’re at the mercy of the restaurants here for food or water.
The information centre and museum at the entrance to the town was closed. I was told at the 2nd info centre (close to the church) that the museum is usually open on Sunday...just not this Sunday. The women at the 2nd info centre were wonderful - very knowledgeable on the history of the area and had great maps of all the trails. You can also get a stamp for your credential here.
The doors to the Iglesia de San Simón y San Judas were open - not to enter but to light a candle through the bars in front of the door. A pretty little church.
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Back to my lovely balcony room for a rest before the climb to Mirador Orellán. Sunday remained pretty quiet in town all day. Certainly some hikers but not the tour bus hoards from the day before.
I really liked the steady climb up to the Mirador. An unusual, kind of spooky forest.
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And then...the Mirador. No words.
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A little way down from the viewing platform and across the road is the entrance to the tunnel that takes you to the mouth on the side of the hill, above right photo. A very cool experience and end to a great Sunday.
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Poor guy can hardly move on his stiff old legs but I love that he still has the will to carry out his security dutiesThat old mastiff in Villavieja is more of a legend than any of the forum members already
But he's harmless. The little barkers are annoying. Wish you not much of them on next stages!
Mystery solved! Thank you!! I’m actually in A Rúa now. Still catching up on my daily posts.
Looking at my wikiloc track, it seems you went left, rather than right at the first fork after the mirador. There, the camino takes the right fork and very soon after that, a left fork.
But all's well that end well, and you saw things that the rest of us missed.
I missed the churros place in PDoFl, hope you find it!
☺
It's so nice to still be out here, yet re-living the experience through other eyes! Buen Camino, Caryn!
Laurie,I look forward to reading these posts carefully when I am on the Invierno in a few days!! I don’t have a copy of the guide with me so I guess I won’t be much help for revising at the end of the year
I’ll send you an email consolidating the few changes I noticed once I’m home mid July. I also noticed things that may have changed because of what you noted in the guide. The way out of Soldón for instance. It’s very clear and well marked now. Waymarking is very good the whole route. Your wonderful detailed work with this guide has been so great to have at my side on this journey. Thank you!I look forward to reading these posts carefully when I am on the Invierno in a few days!! I don’t have a copy of the guide with me so I guess I won’t be much help for revising at the end of the year
So that’s Trampilla! I’d seen the sign earlier but wasn’t sure where it wasA word of caution. Just before the road starts to descend to Barxa do Lor, there is a small farm. The narrow camino path goes between the house and a small hay barn. As I approached, two large dogs lunged out on chains, barking ferociously. They were truly in a frenzy, lunging and straining at their chains. There was no one there and no other way to go around. I inched forward hugging the side of the barn to test the length of the chains. I soon saw that they couldn’t reach me by about 5 or 6 feet. A scary moment and they continued well after I had passed.
Those dogs in A Trampilla are indeed very scary, until you realise that they are chained. I've spoken on various occasions to the farmer and told him that he needs to keep them away from the path, but he couldn't see the problem!
He won't move them!So that’s Trampilla! I’d seen the sign earlier but wasn’t sure where it wasYes, on this day they were in such a frenzy I was afraid they’d either break the chains or their necks! Poor things. Thank you for speaking with the farmer.
No, but it’s so good of you to try!!He won't move them!
That's why we met up with our celebrity pilgrim in Monforte a couple of weeks ago. She really appreciated the incredibly detailed explanation during the tour of the wine museum. As you say, next time! That's what we Invierno lovers like to read!No, I’m ahead - not in Monforte now. Just catching up on my daily posts! I’ve found it hard sometimes at the end of the day to write. Too tired. When I was in Monforte, with the time I had, I had to make a choice of tours. I chose the Clarisas. I was disappointed to not tour the Colegio or the wine museum - especially for the historical context that @VNwalking found valuable for what’s ahead. Next visit!
Finally catching up on these great posts, as I start the Invierno tomorrow. Where did you stay in Monforte?No, I’m ahead - not in Monforte now. Just catching up on my daily posts! I’ve found it hard sometimes at the end of the day to write. Too tired. When I was in Monforte, with the time I had, I had to make a choice of tours. I chose the Clarisas. I was disappointed to not tour the Colegio or the wine museum - especially for the historical context that @VNwalking found valuable for what’s ahead. Next visit!
I stayed at the MON ComeySueña Guesthouse on Roberto Baamond, 30. Lovely single room with beautiful bathroom - 28 euros. Close to the Puente Romana (5 min walk) Fantastic cafe downstairs. Buen camino tomorrow Laurie!Finally catching up on these great posts, as I start the Invierno tomorrow. Where did you stay in Monforte?
He tried to climb into my lap, and the farmer said he was everybody's friend. I have a special soft spot for BCs, and he was beauty, though a muddy one. Maybe this is the dog to cure you, @peregrina2000 ?The collie followed the bull for a bit then turned and came running toward me. He stopped at my feet, looked up, wagged his tail and then ran off after the farmer
Love your photos - do you mind if I save one for painting reference material - buen camino - thank you for sharing your journey - I hope to walk this way in SeptemberA wonderful Day 1 on the Invierno which should have been my Day 2.
I had to adjust my plan slightly when my checked luggage didn’t arrive with me in Santiago. I arrived on Thursday with the plan of taking a bus to Ponferrada early Friday morning and arriving with enough time to walk to Villavieja. I had my pack with me as carry on but my walking poles and a few other camino items were in my checked bag. My bag didn’t arrive until late Friday morning which didn’t give me enough time to get to both Ponferrada and on to Villavieja.
Stayed in Ponferrada Friday night and took a taxi Saturday morning to Villavieja to walk to Las Medulas where I had booked two nights.
When I arrived at Villavieja, the village was shrouded in fog and mist. So quiet. Beautiful and eerie as I started to walk. Around the bend to the right, up above the left of the church, and on a little bit more, there is a driveway on the left. Four dogs came charging and barking out of the driveway. They circled around me and then went behind me. Very scary for a moment but I just stayed calm, kept walking, whispering “It’s okay, it’s okay”, praying they weren’t in a biting mood! The dogs followed for a few seconds but then went back to their driveway. A little further along, a very old mastiff tottered out of his yard, barked a bit to show me he still had it, then returned to his yard. So...my dog experience for the day.
Such a lovely walk through the village and into the woods. Soft paths and ancient trees, wildflowers and interesting bugs to photograph. As the path started to descend, the fog and mist were lifting and all of a sudden, there it was! Castillo de Cornatel. Such a lovely sight high on the hill with the remains of the mist moving past and the colours of the foliage on the slopes. The attendant arrived just as I did and he said the castle would open at 11:00am, in 20 minutes. He also told me that entry is free for pilgrims with a credential. Had a great time poking about, exploring and taking photos.
Leaving the castle, part way down the path is the sign for “the most beautiful bench in Bierzo”. It really is worth it to follow the path to the bench for a spectacular view and different perspective of the castle. Continuing on and looking back at the views of the castle and into Borrenes.
Bar Casa Marisol was open and she made a great lunch of eggs, potatoes and salad. Another pilgrim came in while I was there ~ the only one I saw all day. He was Spanish, 78 years old, from Santiago and on his first camino. Fueled by a great lunch and great conversation via my poor Spanish, his little bit of English and google translate, I continued on.
As with the first sudden view of the castle, the first view of the orange peaks of Las Medulas was fantastic. I booked 2 nights at Casa Rural Agoga and I’ll have a full day to explore.
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@Theatregal
Omg .... this photograph!!!
All your photographs are wonderful ... but this one is beyond wonderful
Thank you! Sure!Love your photos - do you mind if I save one for painting reference material - buen camino - thank you for sharing your journey - I hope to walk this way in September
Thank you Faith!Beautiful photos!
For me too. Physically it was easy, mentally absolutely not. And I had views and a gorgeous day.The next part of the walk (slog!) along the road and the almost 6 km of constant drone and hum from the ridge of windmills was the toughest part of the day - of any day on this camino.
Ladies,For me too. Physically it was easy, mentally absolutely not. And I had views and a gorgeous day.
Next time I might 'break the rules' and go down on the other road. The ones with all the Xs at the top, saying this isn't the way...
Rebel peregrinaFor me too. Physically it was easy, mentally absolutely not. And I had views and a gorgeous day.
Next time I might 'break the rules' and go down on the other road. The ones with all the Xs at the top, saying this isn't the way...
I sympathize. My arms are covered with blackfly bites from a few hikes and that reminded me of this song/animation.Perhaps because of the humidity and on & off rain, black flies were thick, swarming at times around my head and hands.
For me too. Physically it was easy, mentally absolutely not. And I had views and a gorgeous day.
Next time I might 'break the rules' and go down on the other road. The ones with all the Xs at the top, saying this isn't the way...
For me too. Physically it was easy, mentally absolutely not. And I had views and a gorgeous day.
Next time I might 'break the rules' and go down on the other road. The ones with all the Xs at the top, saying this isn't the way...
On the map it looks roundabout, yes, but still shorter. Here's a screenshot from my OSMand map; it looks like there are 2 possibilities, one going into Rodeiro via San Paio and Aldea, the other a little shorter going through Loureiro and Vilaxusta, and then across to Trasulfe and joining the regular way in Barbeitos. Maybe some locals will say why that won't work? (You can see the regular Invierno route in purple.)The way with all the XX s would have led you on a much longer, much more roundabout way to Rodeiro.
Yeah, now that Chicken Little has sprouted wing feathers, she's out to make trouble...though Laurie's brandishing the wing clippers...Rebel peregrina
Day 3. Las Medulas to Puente de Domingo Florez
A very pleasant walk out of town. Cool temperatures, some cloud with the sun shining through every so often. Lots of interesting flora and fauna to photograph. Turning back now and then for last beautiful views of Las Medulas.
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All the while, ambling along, keeping an eye out for waymarks. At the top of the first rise, there is a junction with a sign pointing the way to the Mirador Pedrices. The camino points another direction and starts the descent to Puente de Domingo Florez. Beautiful vistas ahead as the quiet road winds it’s way down the mountain.
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Somehow, at some point along this road I discovered a special variant. I have no idea howand I don’t really recommend it even though it brought me a great experience and most of the route was lovely! I remember a marker some time after the junction with the Mirador Pedrices but then no other markers were appearing as I continued the road descent. At 4km a small village appeared ahead.
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As I got closer there was a sign that said Yeres, pointing to a road to the right and into the village. There was a road to the left which appeared to bypass the village. Yeres was not mentioned in any of the guide info I had and I knew that I must have missed a waymark somewhere and taken a different way. I could not figure out how though as it seemed that there was only one road descending at the earlier junction.
I decided to continue on for a bit, taking the road to the left of the village and see what was ahead. It was a beautiful day and I was loving the walk. The road ultimately wound around and entered Yeres from the other end. There was a woman sitting on a bench in front of her house - she looked so surprised to see me! I asked if the camino passed here. She laughed and said no and asked where I was from and where I was going. I said Puente de Domingo Flórez and she said it was 9km further along the road. She told me to come with her and started walking up the street. I thought she was going to show me the way out but she stopped and banged on the window of a house and called out. An elderly man came out and she told him to get his car to give me a ride to town. I said no, no I wanted to walk. They were so lovely! It took some convincing to assure them that my purpose was walking. They walked me to the road out of town and sent me off with “Go with God”. A really lovely encounter.
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Leaving Yeres, the road was quiet and wound down through fields for 2.5 km before joining with the busy main road at Las Vegas.
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After a km along the road, the walking became a bit intense for the final 5km into Puente de Domingo Flórez. The road was very busy with no shoulder at all on the left side - just a metal guardrail against the road and a drop off on the other side. On the right side there was a drainage ditch along the road that I could step down into on blind corners.
The views were beautiful though of the river and mountains on the left, passing a dam and eventually arriving with a very pretty first view of Puente de Domingo Flórez.
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I still have no idea where I went wrong with the route today but ultimately...it was right
I sympathize. My arms are covered with blackfly bites from a few hikes and that reminded me of this song/animation.
For those who clear the theatre (yeah, I know some Canadian) before the ending credits (and thus miss the brownie recipes): National Film Board of Canada.NFB!!
I will need your help to figure this out when I’m home. I had forgotten I was talking to the Map Master.On the map it looks roundabout, yes, but still shorter. Here's a screenshot from my OSMand map; it looks like there are 2 possibilities, one going into Rodeiro via San Paio and Aldea, the other a little shorter going through Loureiro and Vilaxusta, and then across to Trasulfe and joining the regular way in Barbeitos. Maybe some locals will say why that won't work? (You can see the regular Invierno route in purple.)
you are something else, Rick!I sympathize. My arms are covered with blackfly bites from a few hikes and that reminded me of this song/animation.
I loved everything until the Xs, and once at the Pazo at the bottom of the hill. But that endless slog along the ridge was definitely mind work!I am a big fan of the ascent, but those kms along the line of windmills easily fits within the definition of “slog.”
Truly!!I loved everything until the Xs, and once at the Pazo at the bottom of the hill. But that endless slog along the ridge was definitely mind work!
You are so welcomeI must visit that old train station on my next walk there. Thank you for your mistake last year
For me too.It was a wonderful walking day!
You made it a bit difficult for us. I gave your post aPostscript: This was my last walking day and the first time that I wouldn’t walk into Santiago at the end of my camino. ...
Oh dear.I loved everything until the Xs, and once at the Pazo at the bottom of the hill. But that endless slog along the ridge was definitely mind work!
I remembered a cafe on the left side of the road in San Miguel de Castro. Saw no sign of it this year.
Muchas gracias @peregrina2000 !!I remember that same place from a few years ago. I looked too and saw no sign.
I’ll be back pouring over all your details for the guide revisions, this thread is one of several Invierno gold mines!
Enhorabuena, @Theatregal!!
Thank you @chinacat@Theatregal
So sorry you felt bad the morning after you reached Ponte Ulla, but your photographs are so beautiful ... yet again
Loved the one with the pale green spider, especially
Thank you so much for your lovely thread ❤
Ultreia!
Thank you dear @VNwalking Congratulations to you too!!For me too.
But I missed the side trip to the station.
And I have NO idea how I missed that stone with the inscription. *&%#!
I guess I have to go back.
Congratulations, Caryn, and thank you for sharing your walk with us all!
Buen viaje - ultreia!
V
Day 15. Silleda to Ponte Ulla
Leaving Silleda, I stopped to look at the wonderful mural celebrating Galician writers and "some of the most beautiful words in Galego ".
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A moody cloudy morning with a nice fresh breeze. I’m enjoying walking these days on the Sanabres again - so many varieties of wildflowers lining the path.
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I had hoped the 12th century Igrexa de San Martiño de Dornelas would be open. A friend who walked this way recently, told me there was a beautiful wood ceiling worth a good look. Unfortunately it was closed.
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I stopped for coffee and cake at the albergue Casa Leiras run by the wonderful Italian couple, Andrea and Cristina. Had a nice chat with them - would really like to stay there sometime.
Just before A Estrada, in a wooded area, is a shrine in a hollowed out tree where people have left notes, photos, trinkets. I don’t remember this being here last year. A nice place for a rest because someone has built some little benches! Thank you!
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I remembered a cafe on the left side of the road in San Miguel de Castro. Saw no sign of it this year.
After a steep descent, it’s a pretty entry into Ponte Ulla, over the bridge and past the Igrexa Santa Maria Magdelena and then up the stairs beside the highway bridge to the albergue / pension O’ Cruceiro.
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If you’re okay with heights, and can cross about half way across the highway bridge, there is a beautiful view over Ponte Ulla and it’s bridges.
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Postscript: This was my last walking day and the first time that I wouldn’t walk into Santiago at the end of my camino. I woke the next morning in Ponte Ulla feeling very weary and not well. With 3 weeks of travel still ahead of me, I decided to listen to my body and take the bus into Santiago this last day. It was a good decision.
It's closed down!I remember that same place from a few years ago. I looked too and saw no sign.
I’ll be back pouring over all your details for the guide revisions, this thread is one of several Invierno gold mines!
Enhorabuena, @Theatregal!!
I walked up past it in April when I did a few stages. It was closed. You then get up to the main road and have a long uphill slog until you get to the church at the top (nice Tasca on the other side, though!).I must visit that old train station on my next walk there. Thank you for your mistake last year
Welcome home, Caryn!
It was such a joy to get together in Dublin with you and @kirkie.
Buen camino de la vida!
(This forum is magic...the people you meet...here and out there...)
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