WestKirsty
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Next up: Viejo/Olvidado
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I’m hoping you’ve seen the many posts about Casimiro, so maybe you can give us an update.
Yes, that was a VERY long day - especially at this tine of year. Did you have to walk in the dark?
Well done, anyway - and your fellow peregrinas.
Hey, i did the stage from Monforte to Chantada yesterday and also stayed at Dpaso. It was very lovely.
Today was very stressful because of the flooding. Fortunately I arrived safely at Rodeiro. But it was more like swimming the Camino. I could imagine that it would be impossible going through Belesar today because of the flooding. Buen camino
You too. I hope the trails will be less flooded tomorrow. I would recommend you to not do the path through Monte Faro. I would use the alternative way along the street because it's more safe.I'm so glad to hear you're safe! It is incredible out there just now! I can hear it still coming down.
Stay safe out there!
You too. I hope the trails will be less flooded tomorrow. I would recommend you to not do the path through Monte Faro. I would use the alternative way along the street because it's more safe.
Wow. I bet not. That sounds intense. But also an adventure. Glad you're all fine and hope tomorrow brings a cessation of the bad weather!I'll never forget today!
Well, you found a nice place to stop. We had a 30k hike into Chantada , in late October. Fortunately, the weather was good and we made it there just before dark. It’s hard to find and not particularly well identified, but has very nice people running it! Great bathrooms, nice bunks- everything was well done insideThe floods here in Chantada are subsiding already so I'm hopeful about tomorrow. I'll study the threads and see how things go tomorrow.
I'll never forget today!
Should have specified the establishment - Hostel DpasoWell, you found a nice place to stop. We had a 30k hike into Chantada , in late October. Fortunately, the weather was good and we made it there just before dark. It’s hard to find and not particularly well identified, but has very nice people running it! Great bathrooms, nice bunks- everything was well done inside
DPaso is wonderful, I understand you had a good time there, especially in that horrendous weather.So here we are at DPaso - a fabulous hostel!
I did the stage today and indeed some roads were flooded. But i find a way around an arrived safely in Lalín.DPaso is wonderful, I understand you had a good time there, especially in that horrendous weather.
I love all of your pictures! Please do tell how you went about Monte do Faro.
I suspect some sections in the woods between Rodeiro and Lalín will be muddy or flooded due o the rain: hopefully it will have soaked up when you get there!
Take care!
I did the stage today and indeed some roads were flooded. But i find a way around an arrived safely in Lalín.
Did you walk up to Monte do Faro? As @peregrina2000 said, I think the rain didn't ruin the trail as much as one would think? I'd like to know if it is possible to walk up there even in bad weather...
Day 6: Belasar to Rodeiro
After yesterday's adventure, the hostel owners chatted with us for a while and suggested taking a taxi back to Diomondi to not miss that section. However, after reading all about the ascent down to Belasar on the forum under normal conditions, there was no way I was going to try it the day after flooding. But from Belesar up sounded just fine!
The weather was clear this morning so 3 of us set off in a taxi for just 12€ - and even the drive was worth it! As we went down into the canyon we noted the low clouds/mist but got underneath for a pretty spectacular setting! I was giddy when I got there. Pictures don't do it justice!
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The way up was just fine, mostly on roads anyway and just some wet sections but nothing one wouldn't expect when walking in winter. We were so happy we went back!
After a second breakfast in Chantada, and with the sun shining, I set off and decided to head up Monte do Faro. The roads were in good condition and as you mentioned @peregrina2000 the inclines meant no flooding and it was actually some of the best conditions I'd experienced all week!
A note for those heading that way, if you just follow the arrows they don't lead you up to the Ermita. This happened to one of the other peregrinas today. Myself and another were using apps and followed the maps to get to the top and then on to the Mirador as well. There were arrows to get down from the Mirador, but it's easy to miss if you rely on arrows alone. When 2 of us were at the top, she messaged to tell us that she followed the arrows and was already heading down, followed by another to say she was going to take a side trail off the Camino to see a fuente (I can't quite remember what the sign said when I eventually saw it).
Anyway, I felt it was well worth the extra effort to the top - the views were wonderful, in spite of the increasing cloud cover. And just as I was about to head down, it started to snow. As a Canadian, I was thrilled. It only lasted a short while and then I started down. The other peregrino whose map took him to the top stayed up there for a break.
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As I was walking down I saw a missed call from the peregrina further down the mountain. Then there was a message in our group chat from the peregrino at the top saying he was talking to emergency. I had no idea what was going on but lost coverage right about then. I didn't know who to walk to - up or down - so I was going back and forth with my phone in the air trying to get some connection. After a stressful few minutes, I was able to call my fellow peregrina back when she told me she had fallen on this side trail and broke her wrist. Thankfully the Guardia Civil wee close and picked her up to get her the help she needed.
What had been a glorious day of walking - from the joy of seeing Belasar and the Cañon do Sil, to the excitement of passing the 100km marker, to the top of the mountain, with snow no less - to this sad moment. At least she was ok - it could've been worse.
So I started the long march to Rodeiro, deflated. But the countryside here is gorgeous and I went past some beautiful (not barking) dogs and watched a farmer take his cows home. The setting sun was beautiful too. I arrived in Rodeiro just as it set. The Camino continues.
I'm in the albergue at Hostel Carpenterias tonight. Just 2 of us here. Feels weird.
Yes, agree entirely. Gorgeous photos!The invierno looks mystical and eerily beautiful on your photos. The fog and the rain add to its beauty, I think. I wish I could walk in winter like you!
She's messaged to say she needs surgery, so she'll need to return another time. But she's from Galicia and hopes to meet us in Santiago.Yes, agree entirely. Gorgeous photos!
Hoping the peregrina can continue once the wrist is set and in a cast.
Grf.She's messaged to say she needs surgery, so she'll need to return another time. But she's from Galicia and hopes to meet us in Santiago.
The floods here in Chantada are subsiding already so I'm hopeful about tomorrow. I'll study the threads and see how things go tomorrow.
I'll never forget today!
Las fuertes lluvias desbordan ríos por toda Galicia - http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/album/...rdan-rios-galicia/01101672740719377232987.htm
Some photos of flooding in Galicia the past few days. As you can see it is widespread. Take care, Peregrina!
This is the first time I've used an app on a Camino and have been really pleased with it! I was talking to another pilgrim a few days ago and we were both looking at our apps - I preferred the Wise Pilgrim to the one they were using (can't remember the name just now). The written text was good to read the night before a stage and I really appreciated the little warnings - for example when there are no services on a stage etc. So yes, I think it's great!I have been following your journey with great appreciation. What an amazing experience you have had. I see that you have been using the Wise Pilgrim App, which I have already downloaded for my Camino Invierno in April. Do you recommend it as the best app for the Invierno and is it sufficient? Does one need anything else?. I am a great fan of the Wise Pilgrim apps and have used them on other caminos
Day 9: Ponte Ulla to Santiago de Compostela
The last day. It was a foggy start to the morning down in the valley. But as has been the case for much of this walk, the weather only added to experience.
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Shortly after leaving Ponte Ulla the trails heads up and soon I was above the fog and under beautiful blue skies. I couldn't have asked for better weather today, cool and crisp.
I got my first glimpse of Pico Sacro early on this morning and it was beckoning; the weather was just too perfect to miss the view from the top. I headed off the Camino for the detour.
The approach is relatively gentle, if you follow the roads, but it is a bit steep at the top. However, you are rewarded for your efforts with extensive views all around. I got my first glimpse of the Cathedral in Santiago, some 15km away still. And in the other direction, Monte de Faro, where snow was falling just a few days ago. If you get to this point and the weather is good - and you've still got some energy in your legs - it's a worthwhile detour. One final summit, one final challenge before the destination.
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After Pico Sacro it's a straightforward path to Santiago. I appreciated this today as it meant time to just savour the journey, the joy of walking.
As it's the 5th of January the city was getting prepped for arrival of the 3 Kings when I arrived. I went quickly to check in at Hospedería San Martin where I had reserved a Pilgrim room. I was told that the floor for pilgrims is closed just now and asked if I was ok with a better room but at the same rate. Yet another gift from this Camino.
Back at the plaza I could see the parade starting - the Kings were arriving! They had tables put out offering free churros con chocolate for all and the party was in full swing. What a way to end a Camino.
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I've got a free day tomorrow here and hope to see the Botafumeiro swing and then I'll head home Saturday morning. It's been an extraordinary journey that has exceeded all expectations. The route is varied, and stunning in parts. I met more pilgrims than I thought I would but those connections mean so much to me now, in light of the challenges faced along the way. There were more pilgrims about the first few days but several had to end their journey early and there was really just one other on the same itinerary as me. I walked the majority of the Camino alone and the space to myself in this wonderful part of the world was welcome.
Do you know how many kms is the detour to Pico Sacro an back to the Camino?
Oh, this is wonderful! I have wanted to go up Pico Sacro for a long time now. Next time I go that way, I will definitely use these tracks. The legend of Queen Lupa and the dragons, or were they oxen, made its way into the Codex I think.I think it only added 2-3km to the day and maybe an extra 200m elevation gain (?). I followed this person's route on Wikiloc: https://pt.wikiloc.com/trilhas-trek...iago-de-compostela-por-el-pico-sacro-87584364
Might give you an idea...
My first thought would be Monforte de Lemos, it's one of the bigger stops along the way (if not the biggest!). To be honest, I didn't spend too much time exploring places at the end of the day - combination of weather, the small size of the towns etc. - so others on this forum who've also walked the Invierno might have more information to provide.@WestKirsty First thank for your terrific posts. Lots of great information for those of us planning to walk the Inverno. I will be on the Inverno over Semana Santa. This will be my first time in the Inverno, and I hope to spend the Th, Fri, and Sat nights in a single town to absorb the festivities, ideally in one of the larger towns on the Inverno. Any feel for which towns I should consider. I am thinking I will need reservations in advance. Thanks.
What an incredibleHowever, I've been using the Wise Pilgrim App and the map on it showed the trail going left then straight on, avoiding the river altogether. Which is a good thing as its definitely not passable. From a distance it looked like there might have been a bridge before but not now.
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