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My plans for a short Christmas camino are firming up pretty nicely, but I'm interested to hear the experiences of anyone who arrived in SDC on Christmas eve, or was there through Christmas eve and Christmas day. Were there any restaurants / bars open at all? Do I need to plan to visit a supermarket and DIY my food on Christmas day? I figure church services are a safe bet on Christmas day, but meals...?
Interested in how anyone else has found it.
I hope it will be a very different experience - it will be my sixth but definitely shortest Camino! I’ve booked a little hotel room with a view of the cathedral bell tower (That is an excellent question
I think that if I were doing a Christmas Camino, that I would rent lodging that included a small kitchen and plan on preparing a Christmas Eve and Day menu for the celebratory meals.
What a fun and interesting time of year to do a Camino
This is a great idea...and a nice challenge!I once spent Christmas Day in Rouen, France, and while nearly all the restaurants were closed, some ethnic restaurants (from non-Christian societies) were open. We had Chinese for lunch and Moroccan for dinner!
So you could try to seek out these types of places in Santiago and contact them in advance to see if they'll be open. A quick google search shows several Chinese options, and I’ve been to and enjoyed Malik Bistro a couple of times. It’s run by a lovely Palestinian man and could be open at Christmas.
As I nice Jewish boy from the Bronx, New York, Chinese food is a staple for Jews in general and especially on Christmas Day! When I was young, as with many Jewish families our lunch at a Chinese restaurant and then a movie. In the United States movies are now crowded with all religions and races on Christmas Day but many years ago, (in New York City at least) it was crowds of Jewish families eating and then a packed house at the Loews Paradise movie theatre on the Grand Concourse! We Jews love our Chinese food and they were also the only restaurants that seemed to be open!I once spent Christmas Day in Rouen, France, and while nearly all the restaurants were closed, some ethnic restaurants (from non-Christian societies) were open. We had Chinese for lunch and Moroccan for dinner!
So you could try to seek out these types of places in Santiago and contact them in advance to see if they'll be open. A quick google search shows several Chinese options, and I’ve been to and enjoyed Malik Bistro a couple of times. It’s run by a lovely Palestinian man and could be open at Christmas.
Hi Andreo! Mr. Pilgirm office expert on all things SDC. I have one question. I always try to stay in SMP when I get to Santiago. I have always had good WiFi in the lobby near the reception desk but I have never had WiFi in my pilgrim room. Have you been able to get WiFI upstairs in your Pilgrim room? Just wondering.Bear in mind that the ONLY two days of the entire year that the Pilgrim Office is actually closed are Christmas DAY and New Year's DAY. They will try to close early on both evenings before. So plan arrival accordingly and do not shave it too closely.
The Hospederia San Martin Pinario should be open. A killer buffet breakfast is included with the room rate. There is also a restaurant on premises for lunch and dinner. As an arriving pilgrim, you should be able to get a room on the upper Peregrino floor for about €25 per night. The rooms are small, and old, but clean and safe. Then there is the breakfast, Wi-Fi, etc.
IIRC the policy at SMP is that if you arrive with a valid pilgrim credencial, you can have up to two nights, and more if there is availability, but this is on a day-by-day basis and in person...after your two-nights.
SMP also has two floors of regular hotel type rooms. They charge about €60 - 65 for these rooms. The sole difference IMHO is there are curtains on the windows and the Wi-Fi works in the rooms. These "hotel" rooms are typically larger and brighter. The plumbing is relatively newer.
Both represent perhaps the best deal in all of Santiago, especially when one considers the location, immediately next to the Cathedral.
Regardless of how you plan your Camino, PLEASE reserve a room ahead of time. If your plans change, inform the property.
Also, at SMP, you can use their online reservation service or Booking.com to reserve ONLY the hotel level rooms. All peregrino level rooms must be reserved ONLY either by email or phone. The counter staff speak English. Simply ask for "Ayuda en ingles por favor" when they answer and greetings are exchanged. I usually use email. They provide a six-digit reservation number for reference. DO NOT LOSE IT.
To be sure, other properties are open. I recommend SMP for cost convenience,and the likelihood they will be fully operational over the holidays.
Hope this helps.
As I nice Jewish boy from the Bronx, New York, Chinese food is a staple for Jews in general and especially on Christmas Day! When I was young, as with many Jewish families our lunch at a Chinese restaurant and then a movie. In the United States movies are now crowded with all religions and races on Christmas Day but many years ago, (in New York City at least) it was crowds of Jewish families eating and then a packed house at the Loews Paradise movie theatre on the Grand Concourse! We Jews love our Chinese food and they were also the only restaurants that seemed to be open!
I have never been in Santiago during Christmas so I have no idea what it is like. But I am sure it is very interesting to say the least and would be a great experience I am sure. Did find pretty good Chinese Restaurant in Gijon when I had a rest day. Ate there twice. I wouldn't recommend GIjon as a rest day but I really needed one. I never eat Mexican food on the Camino and probably wouldn't as I live in Mexico and am married to a Mexican woman, so I get fed the real thing every day!!!!I grew up in Northern NJ and relate to your story, I also married into "the tribe." So I get it. This said, the unique approach to being a non-Christian on Christmas does not translate well to Spain, especially Santiago de Compostela, at least in my observation.
Sorry, but I cannot recommend any Chinese food in or around Santiago. If anyone knows of a Chinese restaurant run by Chinese, with a Chinese cook. that might be worth exploring. Hmmm, I return in July for another month at the Pilgrim Office.
All suggestions appreciated... addresses or restaurant name would also be good.
In this regard, I note that there was a Mexican restaurant at the southern end of Dua da Horreos near the train station. All the "Mexican" food came out of frozen food boxes. But the Mojitos and Margaritas were very good. They closed over a year ago. The owner was not Mexican. That is why I emphasized a Chinese restaurant actually operated by Chinese folks. You have a better chance at decent food there. Just my opinion...
Thanks - this is really good advice!Bear in mind that the ONLY two days of the entire year that the Pilgrim Office is actually closed are Christmas DAY and New Year's DAY. They will try to close early on both evenings before. So plan arrival accordingly and do not shave it too closely.
The Hospederia San Martin Pinario should be open. A killer buffet breakfast is included with the room rate. There is also a restaurant on premises for lunch and dinner. As an arriving pilgrim, you should be able to get a room on the upper Peregrino floor for about €25 per night. The rooms are small, and old, but clean and safe. Then there is the breakfast, Wi-Fi, etc.
IIRC the policy at SMP is that if you arrive with a valid pilgrim credencial, you can have up to two nights, and more if there is availability, but this is on a day-by-day basis and in person...after your two-nights.
SMP also has two floors of regular hotel type rooms. They charge about €60 - 65 for these rooms. The sole difference IMHO is there are curtains on the windows and the Wi-Fi works in the rooms. These "hotel" rooms are typically larger and brighter. The plumbing is relatively newer.
Both represent perhaps the best deal in all of Santiago, especially when one considers the location, immediately next to the Cathedral.
Regardless of how you plan your Camino, PLEASE reserve a room ahead of time. If your plans change, inform the property.
Also, at SMP, you can use their online reservation service or Booking.com to reserve ONLY the hotel level rooms. All peregrino level rooms must be reserved ONLY either by email or phone. The counter staff speak English. Simply ask for "Ayuda en ingles por favor" when they answer and greetings are exchanged. I usually use email. They provide a six-digit reservation number for reference. DO NOT LOSE IT.
To be sure, other properties are open. I recommend SMP for cost convenience,and the likelihood they will be fully operational over the holidays.
Hope this helps.
@DebR I haven’t booked my Dec 24-28 lodging yet, but have been looking at studio apt style lodging near the Cathedral in case holiday meals are sparse. Also thinking of picking up some holiday treats the last day or two of hiking just in case. I humbly invite you to my temporary Santiago abode for whatever holiday fare we can muster.
You are the Davebugg of SDC!!!!! I don't mind not having WiFi. When I do need it to call home on Whatsapp, I go to the lobby and take a seat on the bench between reception and the bar. I am too busy stuffing my face during breakfast so I never noticed that there isn't Wifi there. You do get what you pay for and for the $25 Euros I think you get a lot. I always get a great nights sleep. Like the nice hot showers and it is always nice and quiet at night.Thank you, You are much too kind. I merely soak up facts like a sponge. I also ask questions, and I noodle around back hallways and utility closets... You would be surprised what a little curiosity can teach you.
The Wi-Fi router on the 4th floor ONLY works well in the central seating area on the 4th floor near the elevator. The signal diminishes as you move north or south away from the central lounge area near the elevator.
They installed wireless router signal repeaters on the routers on the 1st and 2nd "hotel room" floors. This is why the hotel floors (1 & 2) generally get a better signal in the rooms, while the pilgrim floor (4) does not get much of a signal at all...if any. You pays yer money...etc...
BTW and just FYI, the 3rd floor is for clerical / religious persons only. It is set up like the hotel floor and has the improved Wi-Fi signals. It also has a separate, dedicated, access control system to ensure than only these religious persons are on this floor.
When I am in a 4th floor peregrino room, I rely on LTE data coverage instead of Wi-Fi. If you are on the west side of this floor you can get maximum signal bars. The cell towers are out of the city to the west. On the east side, where you face an internal courtyard, the signal is usually crap.
This said, the Wi-Fi signal is strongest in the Piso 0 lounge area, opposite the reception desk. Frequently, you will find people camped in the hallway, adjacent to the reception desk, on the benches located there, to scoop free Wi-Fi.
Finally, they intentionally did NOT provide Wi-Fi in the dining halls. This was to encourage "turn-over." There are finite tables and facilities to feed a large number of quests. It is also possible to walk in "off the street" to buy breakfast for €6,00 there. I have done this frequently. So, providing Wi-Fi would slow the entire feeding process down. It makes perfect sense to NOT have Wi-Fi in the dining areas in SMP, at least IMHO.
Hope this helps.
You can't go wrong at San Martin Pinario.. Thank-you...that’s so kind!
I’ve tentatively booked a little hotel that does have a bar, but it’s hard to know if it will be open throughout. (I was in Vancouver for Christmas a couple years back and the hotel’s three restaurants were closed on Christmas itself...)
I’m going to look into the San Martin Pindaric option suggested here too..,that would be fun.
I was just telling 2tandreo (check out my post above) that last November myself and 5 others were treated to an amazing dinner at the Parador. It wasn't cheap but it sure was delicious. It might be open on Christmas Eve. If it is I am sure you would need a reservation but believe me you would be in for a treat.@natefaith How early do the shops start closing on Christmas Eve? My Christmas wish is to get my Compostella dated Christmas Eve, so the plan is to allow 6-7 days Sarria to Santiago and walk into Santiago early Christmas Eve.
. Thank-you...that’s so kind!
I’ve tentatively booked a little hotel that does have a bar, but it’s hard to know if it will be open throughout. (I was in Vancouver for Christmas a couple years back and the hotel’s three restaurants were closed on Christmas itself...)
I’m going to look into the San Martin Pindaric option suggested here too..,that would be fun.
I was just telling 2tandreo (check out my post above) that last November myself and 5 others were treated to an amazing dinner at the Parador. It wasn't cheap but it sure was delicious. It might be open on Christmas Eve. If it is I am sure you would need a reservation but believe me you would be in for a treat.
Thanks so much for this, Faith...iI’ll definitely come and visit the Pilgrim House again! Love the idea of the pilgrim Christmas party too: I can imagine you meet just about everyone who’s still in town! Also making a mental note re China Ming on generat principles!@t2andreo China Ming is great! Run by a Chinese husband/ Spanish wife duo, the menu and food are quite decent. We order from them all the time. It's on Romero Donallo, right by Domino's
@DebR We plan to have a Christmas party again this year at Pilgrim House, either on December 23 or 24. We'll keep you posted! It's always a lot of fun and seems to bring pilgrims out of the woodwork, since otherwise the streets ARE really quiet. And of course, do come by during our opening hours to hang out and chat. We'd love to meet you.
Cafes and restaurants will mostly be closed on Christmas Day, but on Christmas Eve you can stock up.
Buen Camino!
Faith
Oh, what a terrific idea. I feel that tinsel may also be in order...Thanks for sharing that! I imagined a magical evening of great food and entertaining stories when I read your post. I saw another post about a celebratory dinner at Parador near the holidays that definitely peaked my interest. Christmas was always my favorite time of year, but somehow it transitioned into a day to get past. Desiring to turn that around, I committed to starting a new tradition of walking the last bit of the Camino and getting a 24 Dec Compostella every year. I’ll be the goober walking with lights on my pack
Yes..,I may email them to ask. Walking in on 24/12, a Christmas Eve compostela and dinner at the parador...this is sounding like one amazing day!I was just telling 2tandreo (check out my post above) that last November myself and 5 others were treated to an amazing dinner at the Parador. It wasn't cheap but it sure was delicious. It might be open on Christmas Eve. If it is I am sure you would need a reservation but believe me you would be in for a treat.
Oh, what a terrific idea. I feel that tinsel may also be in order...
On another note, I emailed San Martin Pinario and it’s closed Christmas Day. The Parador is open (a stay is not cheap) but that may mean the restaurant is open...
@natefaith How early do the shops start closing on Christmas Eve? My Christmas wish is to get my Compostella dated Christmas Eve, so the plan is to allow 6-7 days Sarria to Santiago and walk into Santiago early Christmas Eve.
I usually make a point of having cava in the bar at the parador whenever I visit Santiago...it’s my ritual. Nothing says it can’t bookend a fancy dinner! Shall we?I checked rooms at Parador just for grins when I first started planning, but ruled it out. When I stay several days somewhere I prefer the cozy charming feels like I live there bookings. Indulging in a lavish dinner, on the other hand, is totally up my alleyeven if it means waiting til 26 Dec for a reservation.
Like the tinsel!
I usually make a point of having cava in the bar at the parador whenever I visit Santiago...it’s my ritual. Nothing says it can’t bookend a fancy dinner! Shall we?
I think we have a plan! Love it!!Most definitely! Excellent ritual.
Oh, what a terrific idea. I feel that tinsel may also be in order...
On another note, I emailed San Martin Pinario and it’s closed Christmas Day. The Parador is open (a stay is not cheap) but that may mean the restaurant is open...
@t2andreo China Ming is great! Run by a Chinese husband/ Spanish wife duo, the menu and food are quite decent. We order from them all the time. It's on Romero Donallo, right by Domino's
@DebR We plan to have a Christmas party again this year at Pilgrim House, either on December 23 or 24. We'll keep you posted! It's always a lot of fun and seems to bring pilgrims out of the woodwork, since otherwise the streets ARE really quiet. And of course, do come by during our opening hours to hang out and chat. We'd love to meet you.
Cafes and restaurants will mostly be closed on Christmas Day, but on Christmas Eve you can stock up.
Buen Camino!
Faith
I have stayed there many times and this May ,for the first time had WiFi in my 4th floor room. Excellent!Hi Andreo! Mr. Pilgirm office expert on all things SDC. I have one question. I always try to stay in SMP when I get to Santiago. I have always had good WiFi in the lobby near the reception desk but I have never had WiFi in my pilgrim room. Have you been able to get WiFI upstairs in your Pilgrim room? Just wondering.
Maybe this year I will get lucky.I have stayed there many times and this May ,for the first time had WiFi in my 4th floor room. Excellent!
@t2andreothe policy at SMP is that if you arrive with a valid pilgrim credencial, you can have up to two nights, and more if there is availability, but this is on a day-by-day basis and in person...after your two-nights.
SMP does not post or mention the policy, unless they need to. I repeated the policy from experiences I have had over the past six years.
On three of my Caminos, I arrived significantly earlier than my reservation dates. They permitted me to stay for the duration of my need. In one case, this was a full week. SMP remains my default sought after room on arrival at Santiago. But, in the past couple of years, it has become increasingly unattainable by advance email reservation.
Being able ti get a room for more than a night or two It depends primarily on WHEN you are arriving. For example, if you arrive in April or early May, or in late September or October, before or after the season is in full-swing, you might be able to stay longer.
But from June through early September, it is difficult to find space. That is one reason why ANY accommodation needed at Santiago on arrival, during the summer months, needs to be booked and confirmed in advance.
In particular, in recent years large groups of pilgrims (schools, scouts, churches, civic groups or clubs) have found they can advance reserve blocks of rooms at SMP. Evidently, management is just trying to fill the rooms. Advance group bookings are more reliable for room management that solo pilgrim reservations.
In the summer months, this practice consumes most rooms on most weeks. Also, if the Spanish military is in town for one of their many annual ceremonies at the Cathedral, SMP is literally booked to overflowing.
During the peak summer months, solo pilgrims are used to "fill in the gaps" between the groups, at least in my perception.
While SMP remains the single best housing deal in town for pilgrims, the secret is out and solo pilgrims are usually on the losing end. I expect this condition to get worse as the Holy Year (2021) approaches.
Hope this helps the dialog
I stayed at SMP pilgrim wing, way down the corridor, November 2019. The WiFi was strong and reliable. We however lost power twice, all us Peregrinos camped out in the hallway chatting each other up and telling tall tales until the lights came on.Hi Andreo! Mr. Pilgirm office expert on all things SDC. I have one question. I always try to stay in SMP when I get to Santiago. I have always had good WiFi in the lobby near the reception desk but I have never had WiFi in my pilgrim room. Have you been able to get WiFI upstairs in your Pilgrim room? Just wondering.
Could not check it out this year because to mu shock when I arrived in Santiago the first week of December the Pilgrim rooms were full. I did wait until about 4 days out to call. I was lucky to stay at Hospederia Tarela which was a small hotel in a little square in the center of the city that was about 7 dollars a day more than SMP. I do think I really lucked out on the price but I really enjoyed my stay there. Good bed, super clean, really nice people and I even had good wifi!!!!I stayed at SMP pilgrim wing, way down the corridor, November 2019. The WiFi was strong and reliable. We however lost power twice, all us Peregrinos camped out in the hallway chatting each other up and telling tall tales until the lights came on.
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