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I walked the Coastal only two days out of Porto then switched to Central. We wanted to check out the beaches which were lovely, a nice change after having completed at full CF five days earlier. Then happily returned to central for more serious walking. This was in mid-November so did keep an eye on weather. We found many of the coastal cafes closed for the season. Understandable and expected. I’d take the same route in future walks, maybe a bit earlier but weather is always fickle. Be prepared. It was a great walk.
Yes you are certainly right on this. Cobblestones, but also the granite sett blocks were even worse. The first time I ever appreciated the chance to walk asphalt roads as a 'break' from the cobblestones. After a couple of days we were referring to the cobblestones as 'hobblestones!'Cobblestones are very tough on joints and feet. CP has lots of cobblestone.
You can switch over to the Central route at Vila do Conde (1-2 days out of Porto). The cross-over is described in Brierley.Thanks for your reply. Do you remember from which town you made the switch to the central route?
Also, how was the terrain on the central?
Thanks again!
This is my plan, too, when I walk it in April!I can't speak to the coastal route having not walked it. I walked the central route from Porto and enjoyed it with the exception of the first day out of Porto. There was a fair amount of road walking including a fairly long stretch on the shoulder of the busy N 306.
If I was to walk again, I would take the coastal out of Porto to Vila do Conde and then cross inland and rejoining the central route just before Arcos.
I guess my reasoning for the central over the coastal was the central was the more 'traditional' route to take. Other than day one, the rest of days were interesting and varied.
You even can walk further and jump over at Viana do Castelo where you'll find the bus to Balugães or the train to Barosellos (not Barcelos !) or one station further, Tamel (the train from Viana to Porto !) and walk about 8 kms either from Barosellos on the N308 to the N 204 in Balugães. Or on the waymarked path from Tamel via Balugães to Vitorino dos Piães where you'll find the famous place to stay, casa da Fernanda .in Tamel you'll find the waymarkers directly near the trainstation. If coming from the trainstation of Barroselas you are following the N308 and the N204 . as soon as you arrive at the crossing of the N308 and N204 direction Ponte de Lima walk about 2 kms direction PdL untill you see a busstop at your right side. Just 5 meters before the busstop is a small road to the right. That is the waymarked route to Santiago. After 2 kms then you'll arrive at casa da Fernanda.do'nt miss it. It is great experience to stay in her place . Give her a call before arriving .it can be busy.You can switch over to the Central route at Vila do Conde (1-2 days out of Porto). The cross-over is described in Brierley.
Or you can walk a further day on the Coastal route up to Esposende. From there, there are frequent local buses to Barcelos on the Central. The bus company is Trasdev. It’s about 1/2 hour ride.
The terrain on the central is not unlike Galicia on the Frances. It’s green, some woods, pasture-land, pretty flat in the Portuguese section with the exception of one short steep section after Ponte de Lima, and then gently rolling after you cross into Spain at Tui.
I call these “trip and fall “ pathsYes you are certainly right on this. Cobblestones, but also the granite sett blocks were even worse. The first time I ever appreciated the chance to walk asphalt roads as a 'break' from the cobblestones. After a couple of days we were referring to the cobblestones as 'hobblestones!'View attachment 52159View attachment 52161
Some of them are "Roman " roads since more than 2000 years people are walking on those roads.I call these “trip and fall “ paths
I would not call it "a ferry". It is a one way journey, anyway for the "passengers"Maybe you could do the Senda Litoral for a bit of beach exposure and then switch to the Central route further along. The Variante Espiritual is a nice little add on too as you get to go out on the water by ferry for one leg of it. I plan on doing just that next year. I outline my hows and whys here:and my stages here:A Plan is Hatched...
Happy New Years, y'all! I hope this year sees you hitting the Camino or planning to do so. Me, I'm in the early planning stages of my next...tinyurl.com . I hope this helps somewhat. Buen CaminoAll the Camino's a Stage. Then Another. And Another...
So, after much poring over guidebooks, maps, websites and ancient texts (not really) I think I've finalised my plan of attack. It looks a ...tinyurl.com
Elle thank you for such an informative post, it answered many of the questions I had about the CP. I am planning my Sept. walk and your website will be a big help.@LynneR the two Caminos I felt were very different walks. The Central is more historic and in my opinion, more difficult. The Coastal is on so many lovely boardwalks and wide open beaches. If you want to see lots of photos of the two, so you can make your own choice, my website had lots of info and photos. Click the Many Ways on the Camino Portugues. Happy choosing!
Yes, we re-named them hobblestones!Cobblestones are very tough on joints and feet. CP has lots of cobblestone.
I will take a look. Thanks!To Camino Chris,
Hello,
In 2018 (06/12 to 07/21), I hiked from Cabo de Sao Vicente to Santiago. I tried to walk as close as possible from the coast ; I had never been tired of seeing the sea : from places to places, it's quite different. If you want to have an idea of my Camino, go to my youtube channel : he.panpub. Anyway, it's your own choice and I don't want to influence you
Love this! I am looking forward to those hobblestones in less than 2 months!Yes, we re-named them hobblestones!
We did exactly that in 2016. Enjoyed the coast but headed inland at Vila de Conde to Arcos and really enjoyed it. We also took a bus ride back down to the coast from Tui to A Garda for a day trip and a promised lobster lunch.I can't speak to the coastal route having not walked it. I walked the central route from Porto and enjoyed it with the exception of the first day out of Porto. There was a fair amount of road walking including a fairly long stretch on the shoulder of the busy N 306.
If I was to walk again, I would take the coastal out of Porto to Vila do Conde and then cross inland and rejoining the central route just before Arcos.
I guess my reasoning for the central over the coastal was the central was the more 'traditional' route to take. Other than day one, the rest of days were interesting and varied.
I was reading on another forum someone describing following the same start as I did (Senda Litoral to VIla do Conde, and then over to the Central) but then in Valenca taking that crossover you describe along the river in reverse and walking the Coastal from Caminha to Redondela. He said that part of the Coastal was more beautiful and less "touristy holidaymakers" than the Portuguese part of the coastal. I was thinking that choice might be something to try for a future Camino Portugues.There is a lovely crossover, well marked, between Caminha and Valenca. This follows the river Minha on the boarder of Spain and Portugal. Valenca is on the Portuguese side opposite Tui.
It's often country lane type walking past vineyards, with quite a lot of cobblestones for the first three days out of Porto but much less so after that.I have read some older posts, but for some reason I still can't get a clear picture of the central route. Is it through more towns or more trail hiking?
I'm not personally that drawn to the CP coastal or other coastal caminos like the del Norte, as I prefer the more historic routes myself. Some have said the CP coastal 'doesn't feel like a camino' but others disagree, so as always, it's all about your own experience.Beaches are beautiful, but I wonder if there is any other benefit of the coastal walk?
Our new podcast episode is about the choice between the central and coastal routes. @Elle Bieling has written guidebooks to both and she joins us to talk about the highlights of each route and the differences between them.Any input for a comparison would be greatly appreciated!
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