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Dream coming true - starting Camino October 19th 2019

2020 Camino Guides

Iza

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
(Still) Planning el camino (2019/2020)
Hello fellow pilgrims and pilgrims-to-be!

I just wanted to share my excitement about finally setting off on the Camino on October 19th!
This journey has begun for me 7 years ago when the idea of Camino first came to me. Then there were years of dreaming, planning, postponing, researching, reading... Two years ago I joined the forum and it brought me so much closer to the Camino and all of your beautiful, inspiring and informative stories. And here I am ready to walk alone but knowing that I am not alone. I decided to walk Camino Primitivo because I only have 2 weeks and I really wanted the feeling of completing the "whole Camino", which I might have missed if I chose to walk a part of Camino Frances. I am trying not to have any expectations from the Camino or myself.
My Wise Pilgrim just arrived, I am packing up my gear and counting the days down...

Buen Camino everyone!
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
If you use a smartphone I would strongly recommend getting Wikiloc with a Primitivo track. You can just let this run in the background with no need to look at the phone as it wi alarm if it thinks you are going off route.
Also, if possible use the Albergue at Samblismo and Vilar de Cas.
 

JohnMcM

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Some, and with luck, some more.
Hello fellow pilgrims and pilgrims-to-be!

I just wanted to share my excitement about finally setting off on the Camino on October 19th!
This journey has begun for me 7 years ago when the idea of Camino first came to me. Then there were years of dreaming, planning, postponing, researching, reading... Two years ago I joined the forum and it brought me so much closer to the Camino and all of your beautiful, inspiring and informative stories. And here I am ready to walk alone but knowing that I am not alone. I decided to walk Camino Primitivo because I only have 2 weeks and I really wanted the feeling of completing the "whole Camino", which I might have missed if I chose to walk a part of Camino Frances. I am trying not to have any expectations from the Camino or myself.
My Wise Pilgrim just arrived, I am packing up my gear and counting the days down...

Buen Camino everyone!
I hope that like me you will find the beauty of the Primitivo more overwhelming than the difficulty of some of the terrain.

One small suggestion, be sure to check the weather forecast beforehand if you are choosing to go over the Hospitals route.

Buen (truly beautiful) Camino
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
Ignore the weather forecast! Both the forecast and the local farmer told me the next day would be fine. It wasn’t. Not that I’m any way it was a problem as it’s only 14km to where the 2 routes join and it is extremely well marked.
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
I loved the Primitivo! Before you go over the Hospitales stage you will get the weather report from where you are staying the night before, which will help you determine if you should take it or choose the alternate route. Buen Camino!
 

Iza

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
(Still) Planning el camino (2019/2020)
Thank you guys for the tips and support! I am going to neither check the weather forecast nor ignore it - I will try to be prepared for all scenarios. Waterproof pants and jacket are number one on my packing list though I am secretly wishing for a beautiful sunny Fall ;)
 

Iza

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
(Still) Planning el camino (2019/2020)
If you use a smartphone I would strongly recommend getting Wikiloc with a Primitivo track. You can just let this run in the background with no need to look at the phone as it wi alarm if it thinks you are going off route.
Also, if possible use the Albergue at Samblismo and Vilar de Cas.
I am going to check out this app, though I don't know if my smartphone can handle it. I don't want to depend on my phone too much since the battery doesn't last long.
Albergue tips much appreciated, thank you.
And kudos on completing your Camino today! :)
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
Thank you guys for the tips and support! I am going to neither check the weather forecast nor ignore it - I will try to be prepared for all scenarios. Waterproof pants and jacket are number one on my packing list though I am secretly wishing for a beautiful sunny Fall ;)
I will say this...if foggy you will see nothing going over...absolutely nothing. A man we'd enjoyed the companionship of on the way, arrived a day later than us. While we had a beautiful trek up in sunshine, he said he could see nothing and had gotten disoriented and almost fell off some sort of cliff on it... Do not over estimate the potential perils! Take the advise of the locals before you venture out.
 
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Iza

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
(Still) Planning el camino (2019/2020)
I will say this...if foggy you will see nothing going over...absolutely nothing. A man we'd enjoyed the companionship of on the way, met showing up a day after our beautiful trek up with us later. He said he could see nothing and got disoriented and almost fell off some sort of cliff on it.. Do not over estimate the potential perils! Take the advise of the locals before you venture out.
Wow... thanks for the warning. Gonna watch out for the fog.
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
I will say this...if foggy you will see nothing going over...absolutely nothing. A man we'd enjoyed the companionship of on the way, met showing up a day after our beautiful trek up with us later. He said he could see nothing and got disoriented and almost fell off some sort of cliff on it.. Do not over estimate the potential perils! Take the advise of the locals before you venture out.
There are markers about every 50 m on the higher parts. I had visibility of less than 100 m and it was really not a problem! In fact unles they drew a yellow line all the way you couldn’t make it easier. As both routes end up at the same high point I think the hospitalis route is the easiest as it has a longer,more gentle clime. Also pleas stay in Samblismo before as the Albergue is excellent- especially the home baked bread!
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
The man I spoke of said he could not see those markers. I was shocked to hear him say that as they were right along the side of the trail.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I was surprised the last time I walked on Hospitales to see that the markers were so close together, just like Mike says. If there is really heavy fog, I would recommend going with at least one other person because that way one can go ahead to the next marker and call back to the other. (Or GPS of course) I have walked Hospitales in good weather and in bad weather, and both times it was much easier than the time I walked to Pola in heavy rain. There were some slippery dangerous rocky channels, and a Brazilian peregrino slipped and took a bad fall and had to be carried back up to the road. His camino ended there. I would take Hospitales, with its gradual ascent, all on dirt, any day in bad weather. Now, the descent to Montefurado.... that’s another story, but by then the two alternatives have merged and there’s no other way to get to Berducedo.
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
Laurie, do you or anyone else recall on the Hospitales route that rather treacherous downhill section that followed the powerlines on large stones of gravel? I was so glad I had poles because those stones wanted to tumble with every step and it was difficult to stay balanced. For me, that particular portion was one of my scariest times on the five caminos I've walked so far!
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Laurie, do you or anyone else recall on the Hospitales route that rather treacherous downhill section that followed the powerlines on large stones of gravel? I was so glad I had poles because those stones wanted to tumble with every step and it was difficult to stay balanced. For me, that particular portion was one of my scariest times on the five caminos I've walked so far!
Oh, I remember it well! That is the stretch between the Puerto de Palo (the pass where the Hospitales route joins with the Pola de Allande route) and the beautiful abandoned little village of Montefurado. So that’s going to be something you have to navigate no matter which alternative you take.
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
Oh, I remember it well! That is the stretch between the Puerto de Palo (the pass where the Hospitales route joins with the Pola de Allande route) and the beautiful abandoned little village of Montefurado. So that’s going to be something you have to navigate no matter which alternative you take.
Sometimes I am oblivious...I didn't even realize the paths intersected there and that this rocky stretch was what you had already mentioned! 😀
 

Tia Valeria

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Pt Norte/Pmtvo 2010
C. Inglés 2011
C. Primitivo '12
Norte-C. de la Reina '13
C. do Mar-C. Inglés '15
If the weather is bad walk to Pola and preferably stay overnight. Take the road up to where the Camino cuts across it, avoiding the steep and slippery ascent and water in the valley bottom. Take the track rather than the zig-zag road if weather permits, then check that you can see where it crosses the road at the top and if necessary walk the road again. When Terry walked he could not see more than one snow pole ahead and walked the road all the way from Pola to Berducedo.
Even with the guide marks Hospitales would be a challenge in those conditions and no view so compensate.

When we walked together we had sunshine and could see to Lugo! Also could see where the track crossed the road multiple times and not always 'straight across'
Stay safe, take local advice and if you think your phone battery is not up to it then don't rely on that gps.
Buen Camino
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
If the weather is bad walk to Pola and preferably stay overnight. Take the road up to where the Camino cuts across it, avoiding the steep and slippery ascent and water in the valley bottom. Take the track rather than the zig-zag road if weather permits, then check that you can see where it crosses the road at the top and if necessary walk the road again. When Terry walked he could not see more than one snow pole ahead and walked the road all the way from Pola to Berducedo.
Even with the guide marks Hospitales would be a challenge in those conditions and no view so compensate.

When we walked together we had sunshine and could see to Lugo! Also could see where the track crossed the road multiple times and not always 'straight across'
Stay safe, take local advice and if you think your phone battery is not up to it then don't rely on that gps.
Buen Camino
When I asked the locals for advice about the weather for the hospitalis route they said it would be fine - they were wrong. A phones battery should be ample for the route - it’s less than 15 km to where it joins the pola route - my phone lasts easily for a 50km day even on a route when I have to lol at the map lots of times.
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
I couldn't resist sharing a few photos!...
Laurie, is this the abandoned village you speak of? I loved the blue slate surrounding the windows which reminded me shutters!
Ahhh, some great memories!
 

Attachments

Iza

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
(Still) Planning el camino (2019/2020)
All your tips are priceless! I think I will invest in a GPS. And will start some serious map studying right away!
 

Jeff Titelius

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (León to Santiago) 2018
Hello fellow pilgrims and pilgrims-to-be!

I just wanted to share my excitement about finally setting off on the Camino on October 19th!
This journey has begun for me 7 years ago when the idea of Camino first came to me. Then there were years of dreaming, planning, postponing, researching, reading... Two years ago I joined the forum and it brought me so much closer to the Camino and all of your beautiful, inspiring and informative stories. And here I am ready to walk alone but knowing that I am not alone. I decided to walk Camino Primitivo because I only have 2 weeks and I really wanted the feeling of completing the "whole Camino", which I might have missed if I chose to walk a part of Camino Frances. I am trying not to have any expectations from the Camino or myself.
My Wise Pilgrim just arrived, I am packing up my gear and counting the days down...

Buen Camino everyone!
Buen Camino Peregrina!
 
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Reactions: Iza

Bob from L.A. !

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Francis 2012, 2014, 2016. Camino Norte 2018. Many more to come in my future God willing !
You will not be alone.

Buen camino !
 
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alipilgrim

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2005, 2007; Madrid/Frances 2011; 1/2 VdP 2012; Portugese Litoral2019; Finisterre/Muxia2019;
I walked the Hospitales route 2 days after Mike and at times had visibility well under 30m yet I had no worries about finding my way as it was EXTREMELY well marked, and almost all is an apparent trail; all except the R-hand jog one takes right before Puerto de Palo(?), but if I’d gone straight I’d have hit the road within a few meters anyway. DA3AE28B-B069-4CB0-966E-F36963ABB642.jpeg 063350E6-EF67-4FE8-950C-C82569DEA7F9.jpeg B192586E-4362-4BFC-9EF3-D4D2FD79B55E.jpeg
Sitting on the concrete block with the big arrow marking the R-hand turn
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Is that little hut at the pass still there? A bunch of us once went over Hospitales in bad weather and we used the wall of the hut to make a tarp covering, but the inside was so disgusting we preferred to sit in the rain and eat.
 

MikeJS

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (12), VdlP (16). Sureste/Invierno (17). Olvidado/San Salvador/Primitivo (19)
I walked the Hospitales route 2 days after Mike and at times had visibility well under 30m yet I had no worries about finding my way as it was EXTREMELY well marked, and almost all is an apparent trail; all except the R-hand jog one takes right before Puerto de Palo(?), but if I’d gone straight I’d have hit the road within a few meters anyway.View attachment 65720View attachment 65721View attachment 65722
Sitting on the concrete block with the big arrow marking the R-hand turn
Glad to see you are back on the trail. I’m currently in SdC airport waiting for my flight home.
 

alipilgrim

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2005, 2007; Madrid/Frances 2011; 1/2 VdP 2012; Portugese Litoral2019; Finisterre/Muxia2019;
Is that little hut at the pass still there? A bunch of us once went over Hospitales in bad weather and we used the wall of the hut to make a tarp covering, but the inside was so disgusting we preferred to sit in the rain and eat.
There’s an emergency hut, or so I think it was, back by the ruins midway and yes, there’s still a building there at the pass on other side of the road but I didn’t go investigate as I was cold and ready to descend into daylight! 81602EA2-9F87-4E2A-98F1-741A19196A8B.jpeg
 

Ana Santos

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
First time doing the Portuguese Coastal Way, September 28th!
Hello fellow pilgrims and pilgrims-to-be!

I just wanted to share my excitement about finally setting off on the Camino on October 19th!
This journey has begun for me 7 years ago when the idea of Camino first came to me. Then there were years of dreaming, planning, postponing, researching, reading... Two years ago I joined the forum and it brought me so much closer to the Camino and all of your beautiful, inspiring and informative stories. And here I am ready to walk alone but knowing that I am not alone. I decided to walk Camino Primitivo because I only have 2 weeks and I really wanted the feeling of completing the "whole Camino", which I might have missed if I chose to walk a part of Camino Frances. I am trying not to have any expectations from the Camino or myself.
My Wise Pilgrim just arrived, I am packing up my gear and counting the days down...

Buen Camino everyone!
Have fun! I just finished today (I’m sitting at a cafe in Santiago having a well deserved piece of Santiago pie) my Portuguese Coastal and it’s life changing. I’m already planning my next one for next year. Nothing can compare to this. I did alone and was perfect. Enjoy the silence of your mind. It’s life changing.
 
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Ian Afloat

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF July 25th 2017 from SJPDP
Highlights: Grado on a Sunday, Salas, the Albergue at Bodenaya, Hospitales, the descent to the dam at Grandas de Salime, the youth hostel at Castro, Lugo, the church at Boente...
 

Ian Afloat

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF July 25th 2017 from SJPDP
If you’re on Facebook, check out Camino Primitivo English Speakers.
 
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paul Flanagan

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Planning to walk May 2017
Hello fellow pilgrims and pilgrims-to-be!

I just wanted to share my excitement about finally setting off on the Camino on October 19th!
This journey has begun for me 7 years ago when the idea of Camino first came to me. Then there were years of dreaming, planning, postponing, researching, reading... Two years ago I joined the forum and it brought me so much closer to the Camino and all of your beautiful, inspiring and informative stories. And here I am ready to walk alone but knowing that I am not alone. I decided to walk Camino Primitivo because I only have 2 weeks and I really wanted the feeling of completing the "whole Camino", which I might have missed if I chose to walk a part of Camino Frances. I am trying not to have any expectations from the Camino or myself.
My Wise Pilgrim just arrived, I am packing up my gear and counting the days down...

Buen Camino everyone!
Good luck to you.

It will be life changing of that I am certain,
"May the road rise to meet you, and the wind always be at your back. and the rains fall softly on your fields. May God hold you gently in the palm of his hand. ..
 

LesBrass

Likes Walking
Camino(s) past & future
yes...
I walked the Hospitales route 2 days after Mike and at times had visibility well under 30m yet I had no worries about finding my way as it was EXTREMELY well marked, and almost all is an apparent trail; all except the R-hand jog one takes right before Puerto de Palo(?), but if I’d gone straight I’d have hit the road within a few meters anyway.View attachment 65720View attachment 65721View attachment 65722
Sitting on the concrete block with the big arrow marking the R-hand turn
I think we sat on that block too ☺👋
 

Karma_m

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
sept "2013"
Hi Iza,
We may see you on the way... currently in Leon and tossing up whether to do the San Salvador and then Primativo but the forecast is for rain most of next week so might have to skip the Salvador and just do the primativo... am a bit apprehensive after leaving our Meseta family and familiarity of the Frances!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2017), Primitivo (2019)
I am going to check out this app, though I don't know if my smartphone can handle it. I don't want to depend on my phone too much since the battery doesn't last long.
Albergue tips much appreciated, thank you.
And kudos on completing your Camino today! :)
I second the Sanblismo albergue recommendation... very nice hospiletero and gets you away from the smell of dung and flies at Borres. Also recommend La Mesa versus
I am going to check out this app, though I don't know if my smartphone can handle it. I don't want to depend on my phone too much since the battery doesn't last long.
Albergue tips much appreciated, thank you.
And kudos on completing your Camino today! :)
you will be fine along the Primitivo. Generally well marked an a beautiful, hilly route. I agree with the Sanblismo recommendation- nice albergue beyond the flies and dung odor in Borres. Also, choose La Mesa over Berducedo.
Buen Camino! You have selected a excellent route!
 
  • Thank you
Reactions: Iza
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2017), Primitivo (2019)
I second the Sanblismo albergue recommendation... very nice hospiletero and gets you away from the smell of dung and flies at Borres. Also recommend La Mesa versus

you will be fine along the Primitivo. Generally well marked an a beautiful, hilly route. I agree with the Sanblismo recommendation- nice albergue beyond the flies and dung odor in Borres. Also, choose La Mesa over Berducedo.
Buen Camino! You have selected a excellent route!
Sorry for the duplication...I thought the first paragraph had disappeared
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2017), Primitivo (2019)
Highlights: Grado on a Sunday, Salas, the Albergue at Bodenaya, Hospitales, the descent to the dam at Grandas de Salime, the youth hostel at Castro, Lugo, the church at Boente...
[/QUOT
Sorry for the duplication...I thought the first paragraph had disappeared
also forgot to enthusiastically support the youth hostel in Castro. Managed by a very very good hospiletero. Super nice women and beautiful location- good food as well! A can’t miss albergue
 

Dinah Shaw

Volcano Climber
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Norte and Frances Sept 6 - Oct 11, 2016
Hello fellow pilgrims and pilgrims-to-be!

I just wanted to share my excitement about finally setting off on the Camino on October 19th!
This journey has begun for me 7 years ago when the idea of Camino first came to me. Then there were years of dreaming, planning, postponing, researching, reading... Two years ago I joined the forum and it brought me so much closer to the Camino and all of your beautiful, inspiring and informative stories. And here I am ready to walk alone but knowing that I am not alone. I decided to walk Camino Primitivo because I only have 2 weeks and I really wanted the feeling of completing the "whole Camino", which I might have missed if I chose to walk a part of Camino Frances. I am trying not to have any expectations from the Camino or myself.
My Wise Pilgrim just arrived, I am packing up my gear and counting the days down...

Buen Camino everyone!
Buen Camino. Utreia
 
  • Thank you
Reactions: Iza

Iza

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
(Still) Planning el camino (2019/2020)
Hi Iza,
We may see you on the way... currently in Leon and tossing up whether to do the San Salvador and then Primativo but the forecast is for rain most of next week so might have to skip the Salvador and just do the primativo... am a bit apprehensive after leaving our Meseta family and familiarity of the Frances!
How exciting! Hope our roads will cross :)
 

Karma_m

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
sept "2013"
How exciting! Hope our roads will cross :)
It’s absolutely beautiful but boy the meseta did not get me fit ready for this😂😉🙊!! Some guide books say gentle rolling hills ... I say bloody steep mothers with even steeper descents!!!
 

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