WestKirsty
Active Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Next up: Viejo/Olvidado
Hello from Villafranca de Bierzo! I've just finished walking the Olvidado from Aguilar de Campoo, where I joined it from the Camino Viejo. I didn't live post as @LTfit was just a few days ahead of me and shared wonderful live posts with info on the route, accommodations etc. There was no need to duplicate, but of course we walked our own journeys and will have our own stories so I thought I'd post a little summary here. Hopefully some useful information for future Olvidado pilgrims, and maybe some familiar characters for Olvidado alumni!
My stages:
1. Aguilar de Campoo to Cervera (Hostel Pineda)
2. Cervera to Guardo (Albergue)
3. Guardo to Puente Almuhey (route B) (Municipal albergue)
4. Puente Almuhey to Cistierna (Hostal Moderno)
5. Cistierna to Boñar (Hostal Nisi)
6. Boñar to Vegacervera (Long story...see below!)
7. Vegacevera to Pola de Gordón (Pension 15 Mayo)
8. Pola de Gordón to La Magdalena (municipal albergue)
9. La Magdalena to Vegarienza (Albergue)
10. Vegarienza to Fasgar (Albergue)
11. Fasgar to Igüeña (Albergue Turístico)
12. Igüeña to Congosto (municipal albergue)
13. Congosto to Villafranca de Bierzo (hostal Méndez)
Navigation: I found the Olvidado very well marked in most places. I took the 'B' mountain routes (highly recommend, by the way!) and there were a few places where having access to tracks of some variety was very useful. I used a combination of Wikiloc (Ender's tracks) and the Wise Pilgrim app at times. When Wikiloc beeped at me, I would check and if my error wasn't obvious, I would open Wise Pilgrim. The map feature worked very well and was up to date in the places where I used it. Note: I've also walked Bilbao to Arija on separate occasions and only had one confusing section before Bercedo where either the Wise Pilgrim map was off, or someone put a fence up! This seems to be an issue on a few stages before Aguilar. In her video, Sarah Dhooma jumped the barbwire fence at the same place I did so I think lots of us are having issues here.
Staying at non-pilgrim albergues/albergues turísticos: On the Olvidado I stayed in a few albergues not limited to pilgrims. I highly suggest calling them before your start out as these kinds of places can be booked up by large groups. I did this a few weeks before I set out, including a call to Albergue El Chalten in Vegacevera. I spoke to Pablo and he told me there would be no issue staying there on my intended date and said to call the day before from Boñar to remind him. When I arrived in Boñar, I tried calling the number on the website - as I did a few weeks before - but the message said 'not in service'. I tried another number but no answer. Figuring he must be busy, I gave it a few hours then tried again. No luck, which I started to wonder about.
An hour or so later Pablo called me back and sounded stressed and apologetic. It turns out a kids camp had an exclusive booking of the site and according to the contract, no unauthorized adults were permitted on site. It was a quick call and he told me he was calling another albergue nearby and would find me a bed. He told me not worry and to come see him the next day.
So off I went on a fabulous route into the mountains (that day is just WOW) and went to Albergue El Chalten where I waited outside and called Pablo. Him and another woman came out to greet me and to accompany me to my bed for the night. I was a bit confused and then he told me that I'd be staying at his home with him and his family and he hoped I wasn't too uncomfortable with this. He wasn't able to find another place and clearly felt bad for the mix-up (if you could call it that). They showed me the room they had prepared for me and told me to make myself at home and then went back to work. I was standing in their house shocked/humbled/I-don't-know-the-right-word by their kindness and generosity, not to mention trust of a random stranger!
The woman he was with was a friend who was also staying with them to help with the camp and their kids were lovely. They brought food from the camp for me for lunch and I was honoured to share dinner with the family. Pablo and his wife, Vanessa, were so clearly exhausted from work and I felt quite bad that they now had a pilgrim on their hands too. But they were warm and welcoming...I'm still wearing the bracelet their daughter made for me. When I left in the morning, the kids were asleep on the sofa and the floor. They'd given up their room for me.
I share this story for 2 reasons: First, I don't know how often these exclusive camp bookings happen but it is something to be aware of for those planning to stay there. I asked how many pilgrims they'd had in their home and apparently I was the first! Pablo was clearly stressed about the situation on the phone. As I know LTFit was there just 2 nights before, I'm not sure if an issue arose with their clients. It sounded like the same group had been there all week. Hopefully this doesn't happen too often - for Pilgrims and for the family!
Secondly, the kindness and generosity of the family really sums up the Olvidado for me. I've walked a few Caminos before and have always been struck by how friendly locals had been. But I am still in awe at how giving people have been along this route.
On my first 'B' route walking into Caminayo, I was looking for a bench to sit on for a break when I man came out to chat. He invited me to his house where a lovely bench and table were outside, shouted to his wife that a peregrina was there and next thing I knew I was sitting with more the half the town (permanent population of Caminayo = 5), sharing cold drinks and snacks. They filled my bottle with ice and water and I continued on my day with tears in my eyes.
Locals in bars offered to pay for my order. I have little trinkets (buttons and momentos) from perfect strangers. While it seems some locals along the Olvidado might not be happy about it - putting up fences etc. - the vast majority I met we're excited about it and so, so giving. It brings a tear to my eye just writing this.
Vegarienza & Amigas del Camino: I stayed in the albergue run by Estela and dined in Casa Maxi with that memorable kitchen. The albergue was used as a Monestary at one point and I would describe it as dated - a stark contrast to the new albergue in La Magdalena the night before! But it has everything a pilgrim needs.
I was the only person staying but when I arrived Estela told me that they were going to be having a meeting that night with the Amigas del Viejo Camino de la Montaña at the albergue and she wanted to invite me to attend. I was happy to accept the offer! The meeting began with a veritable feast of homemade tortilla (quite honestly, the best I've had!), chorizo (also homemade), cheeses, breads etc., not to mention the lemon mousse! (I got the recipe for that...so good!). They are a lovely group of women who do so much for their town, and the Camino and us pilgrims. They told me of how the building first looked when they decided to use it as an albergue and all the work they put into it. They mentioned how much they appreciate the support of the American Association of Pilgrims but we're also very clearly proud of the work they do to fund their efforts. They make all manner of crafts (including the baskets you see on the kitchen table in the albergue) and sell them at local markets. When I arrived at the albergue, I thought it old, but fine for one night. After meeting these ladies and listening to them tell me of all their efforts, it felt much more homey. A lot of love and hardwork has gone into that albergue. It's now one of my favorites.
Although, the wardrobe door creaking open on its own in the middle of the night did get the adrenaline going...
Walking to Villafranca: I know most people head down to Ponferrada to connect to the Invierno. There's not much written about Congosto to Villafranca, and after the joy of the mountain stages I can see why. The official guide/info boards split it into 2 stages but I walked it in one (~36km). As far as terrain goes it's easy walking, but the bulk of it is on roads which I find hard on my feet.
If you do walk these stages, be sure to stop in at Cafe/Bar La Madrileña in Cubillos del Sil. The woman is runs it is so friendly and excited about the Camino! As I was paying she asked if she could take my photo and then I saw the board on the wall. She has a pilgrims corner and prints out the photos of all the peregrin@s who come in for a break.
After Cubillos there is a very unpleasant road walking section - lots of industry around here so loads of big semi-trucks going past. One stretch has little to no shoulder to walk on, but it's thankfully a short section before you can walk on a quieter access road and then onto back country dirt roads (though several fuel trucks were on the road here too!).
You join the Camino Frances at Cacabelos and then you have all manner of services at your disposal. And after 3 weeks of solitary walking, so many pilgrims!
Villafranca is a nice little place to wander around and I got my Olvidada at the tourist office. Job done.
I may have written too much here, I've just realized, but hopefully there's something of use!
I'm waiting for my bus to head home and am quite sad it's over. I knew I'd like the route (mountains make me happy) but it was the overwhelming kindness and generosity that really made it special.
My stages:
1. Aguilar de Campoo to Cervera (Hostel Pineda)
2. Cervera to Guardo (Albergue)
3. Guardo to Puente Almuhey (route B) (Municipal albergue)
4. Puente Almuhey to Cistierna (Hostal Moderno)
5. Cistierna to Boñar (Hostal Nisi)
6. Boñar to Vegacervera (Long story...see below!)
7. Vegacevera to Pola de Gordón (Pension 15 Mayo)
8. Pola de Gordón to La Magdalena (municipal albergue)
9. La Magdalena to Vegarienza (Albergue)
10. Vegarienza to Fasgar (Albergue)
11. Fasgar to Igüeña (Albergue Turístico)
12. Igüeña to Congosto (municipal albergue)
13. Congosto to Villafranca de Bierzo (hostal Méndez)
Navigation: I found the Olvidado very well marked in most places. I took the 'B' mountain routes (highly recommend, by the way!) and there were a few places where having access to tracks of some variety was very useful. I used a combination of Wikiloc (Ender's tracks) and the Wise Pilgrim app at times. When Wikiloc beeped at me, I would check and if my error wasn't obvious, I would open Wise Pilgrim. The map feature worked very well and was up to date in the places where I used it. Note: I've also walked Bilbao to Arija on separate occasions and only had one confusing section before Bercedo where either the Wise Pilgrim map was off, or someone put a fence up! This seems to be an issue on a few stages before Aguilar. In her video, Sarah Dhooma jumped the barbwire fence at the same place I did so I think lots of us are having issues here.
Staying at non-pilgrim albergues/albergues turísticos: On the Olvidado I stayed in a few albergues not limited to pilgrims. I highly suggest calling them before your start out as these kinds of places can be booked up by large groups. I did this a few weeks before I set out, including a call to Albergue El Chalten in Vegacevera. I spoke to Pablo and he told me there would be no issue staying there on my intended date and said to call the day before from Boñar to remind him. When I arrived in Boñar, I tried calling the number on the website - as I did a few weeks before - but the message said 'not in service'. I tried another number but no answer. Figuring he must be busy, I gave it a few hours then tried again. No luck, which I started to wonder about.
An hour or so later Pablo called me back and sounded stressed and apologetic. It turns out a kids camp had an exclusive booking of the site and according to the contract, no unauthorized adults were permitted on site. It was a quick call and he told me he was calling another albergue nearby and would find me a bed. He told me not worry and to come see him the next day.
So off I went on a fabulous route into the mountains (that day is just WOW) and went to Albergue El Chalten where I waited outside and called Pablo. Him and another woman came out to greet me and to accompany me to my bed for the night. I was a bit confused and then he told me that I'd be staying at his home with him and his family and he hoped I wasn't too uncomfortable with this. He wasn't able to find another place and clearly felt bad for the mix-up (if you could call it that). They showed me the room they had prepared for me and told me to make myself at home and then went back to work. I was standing in their house shocked/humbled/I-don't-know-the-right-word by their kindness and generosity, not to mention trust of a random stranger!
The woman he was with was a friend who was also staying with them to help with the camp and their kids were lovely. They brought food from the camp for me for lunch and I was honoured to share dinner with the family. Pablo and his wife, Vanessa, were so clearly exhausted from work and I felt quite bad that they now had a pilgrim on their hands too. But they were warm and welcoming...I'm still wearing the bracelet their daughter made for me. When I left in the morning, the kids were asleep on the sofa and the floor. They'd given up their room for me.
I share this story for 2 reasons: First, I don't know how often these exclusive camp bookings happen but it is something to be aware of for those planning to stay there. I asked how many pilgrims they'd had in their home and apparently I was the first! Pablo was clearly stressed about the situation on the phone. As I know LTFit was there just 2 nights before, I'm not sure if an issue arose with their clients. It sounded like the same group had been there all week. Hopefully this doesn't happen too often - for Pilgrims and for the family!
Secondly, the kindness and generosity of the family really sums up the Olvidado for me. I've walked a few Caminos before and have always been struck by how friendly locals had been. But I am still in awe at how giving people have been along this route.
On my first 'B' route walking into Caminayo, I was looking for a bench to sit on for a break when I man came out to chat. He invited me to his house where a lovely bench and table were outside, shouted to his wife that a peregrina was there and next thing I knew I was sitting with more the half the town (permanent population of Caminayo = 5), sharing cold drinks and snacks. They filled my bottle with ice and water and I continued on my day with tears in my eyes.
Locals in bars offered to pay for my order. I have little trinkets (buttons and momentos) from perfect strangers. While it seems some locals along the Olvidado might not be happy about it - putting up fences etc. - the vast majority I met we're excited about it and so, so giving. It brings a tear to my eye just writing this.
Vegarienza & Amigas del Camino: I stayed in the albergue run by Estela and dined in Casa Maxi with that memorable kitchen. The albergue was used as a Monestary at one point and I would describe it as dated - a stark contrast to the new albergue in La Magdalena the night before! But it has everything a pilgrim needs.
I was the only person staying but when I arrived Estela told me that they were going to be having a meeting that night with the Amigas del Viejo Camino de la Montaña at the albergue and she wanted to invite me to attend. I was happy to accept the offer! The meeting began with a veritable feast of homemade tortilla (quite honestly, the best I've had!), chorizo (also homemade), cheeses, breads etc., not to mention the lemon mousse! (I got the recipe for that...so good!). They are a lovely group of women who do so much for their town, and the Camino and us pilgrims. They told me of how the building first looked when they decided to use it as an albergue and all the work they put into it. They mentioned how much they appreciate the support of the American Association of Pilgrims but we're also very clearly proud of the work they do to fund their efforts. They make all manner of crafts (including the baskets you see on the kitchen table in the albergue) and sell them at local markets. When I arrived at the albergue, I thought it old, but fine for one night. After meeting these ladies and listening to them tell me of all their efforts, it felt much more homey. A lot of love and hardwork has gone into that albergue. It's now one of my favorites.
Although, the wardrobe door creaking open on its own in the middle of the night did get the adrenaline going...
Walking to Villafranca: I know most people head down to Ponferrada to connect to the Invierno. There's not much written about Congosto to Villafranca, and after the joy of the mountain stages I can see why. The official guide/info boards split it into 2 stages but I walked it in one (~36km). As far as terrain goes it's easy walking, but the bulk of it is on roads which I find hard on my feet.
If you do walk these stages, be sure to stop in at Cafe/Bar La Madrileña in Cubillos del Sil. The woman is runs it is so friendly and excited about the Camino! As I was paying she asked if she could take my photo and then I saw the board on the wall. She has a pilgrims corner and prints out the photos of all the peregrin@s who come in for a break.
After Cubillos there is a very unpleasant road walking section - lots of industry around here so loads of big semi-trucks going past. One stretch has little to no shoulder to walk on, but it's thankfully a short section before you can walk on a quieter access road and then onto back country dirt roads (though several fuel trucks were on the road here too!).
You join the Camino Frances at Cacabelos and then you have all manner of services at your disposal. And after 3 weeks of solitary walking, so many pilgrims!
Villafranca is a nice little place to wander around and I got my Olvidada at the tourist office. Job done.
I may have written too much here, I've just realized, but hopefully there's something of use!
I'm waiting for my bus to head home and am quite sad it's over. I knew I'd like the route (mountains make me happy) but it was the overwhelming kindness and generosity that really made it special.
. Now I'm definitely gonna have to walk the Olvidado again to see our pictures! (Not to mention all the other good stuff...)
Also the Heat wave may be less extreme. 
