Fall Camino Decision

[Philtration]

So, with little advance planning, I've booked my flight! I arrive Madrid early on October 19. I'm planning on two days of jet lag recovery before I start walking from... somewhere. I have 18 days to walk before heading back to Madrid for my return flight on Nov 9. This is my second camino, first was the Frances from Logroño in the summer of 2021. I walked that camino with my brother who had health issues. Because of the covid Delta surge, we gave up dormitory sleeping and minimized our exposure with others to minimize his risk. It was the right thing to do, but we both missed the walking/dining/albergue community of our first week. I'm a slower walker, 20ish k/day. I'm presently considering the following route options:

1. Frances from Leon - I have mixed feelings here, because this is the section of the Frances that quickly becomes crowded and was less enjoyable on my first camino. I've looked at the statistics from the Pilgrim Office and from SJPdP, and as near as I can tell it looks like this time will still be within the the fall wave of pilgrims.
2. Frances from Leon to Ponferrada and then Invierno - A few days on the less crowded portion of the Frances with people and the rest of the walk on a new route but probably pretty solitary with very few pilgrims. That's not a deal breaker, but a consideration. This route might be a little tight for my available time. I also don't know if the trail conditions for the invierno will be worse for mud etc. in possible rain this time of year, and if there will be infrastructure still open. I would appreciate any experiences anyone can offer here. And if I had to skip any section, what would be least missed.
3. Start the VdlP, Mozárabe, or some other route- Possibly better weather, but also would expect little to no interaction with other pilgrims. Like the Invierno, that's not a game stopper, but a consideration.

I welcome any route suggestions or observations on these options. Thanks in advance!

 

[David Tallan]

Just an idea, if you are ready to consider routes with smaller pilgrim communities, you could always just walk from Madrid to Sahagun. No transportation needed to get you to your starting point. It's 323 km, so it fits pretty well within your 18 walking days @ 20 km a day with time for a few rest days our detours to San Ildefonso de La Granja and/or Valladolid.

 

[Philtration]

Just an idea, if you are ready to consider routes with smaller pilgrim communities, you could always just walk from Madrid to Sahagun. No transportation needed to get you to your starting point. It's 323 km, so it fits pretty well within your 18 walking days @ 20 km a day with time for a few rest days our detours to San Ildefonso de La Granja and/or Valladolid.

Yeah, I've heard good things about the Madrid, but mostly it's from people walking that route in the spring or early summer. Do you think there is infrastructure there to support off-season Oct'/Nov walking?

 

[wisepilgrim]

The camino Madrid comes to mind, but you will be largely alone if not entirely.
And also, remember that 'waves' are influenced by day of the week as much as they are month of the year. By the time you get to León the waves have flattened a bit, and it would be hard to calculate what the numbers will look like, but I don't think you will find massive numbers at that time of year.

 

[Pafayac]

If you have already walked Frances from León, perhaps it would be nicer to walk another route ?
However, I will start from León on October 22nd, hopefully till Santiago with a friend of mine. I hope during low season it will not be too crowded.

 

[Anamiri]

The camino Madrid comes to mind, but you will be largely alone if not entirely.
And also, remember that 'waves' are influenced by day of the week as much as they are month of the year. By the time you get to León the waves have flattened a bit, and it would be hard to calculate what the numbers will look like, but I don't think you will find massive numbers at that time of year.

This is so true.
We walked from Leon in early September 2019, and often walked alone, there were very few people until we reached Sarria. We were actually excited to meet with other pilgrims in the first few days, it was a novelty.

 

[Isabelpilgrim]

So, with little advance planning, I've booked my flight! I arrive Madrid early on October 19. I'm planning on two days of jet lag recovery before I start walking from... somewhere. I have 18 days to walk before heading back to Madrid for my return flight on Nov 9. This is my second camino, first was the Frances from Logroño in the summer of 2021. I walked that camino with my brother who had health issues. Because of the covid Delta surge, we gave up dormitory sleeping and minimized our exposure with others to minimize his risk. It was the right thing to do, but we both missed the walking/dining/albergue community of our first week. I'm a slower walker, 20ish k/day. I'm presently considering the following route options:

1. Frances from Leon - I have mixed feelings here, because this is the section of the Frances that quickly becomes crowded and was less enjoyable on my first camino. I've looked at the statistics from the Pilgrim Office and from SJPdP, and as near as I can tell it looks like this time will still be within the the fall wave of pilgrims.
2. Frances from Leon to Ponferrada and then Invierno - A few days on the less crowded portion of the Frances with people and the rest of the walk on a new route but probably pretty solitary with very few pilgrims. That's not a deal breaker, but a consideration. This route might be a little tight for my available time. I also don't know if the trail conditions for the invierno will be worse for mud etc. in possible rain this time of year, and if there will be infrastructure still open. I would appreciate any experiences anyone can offer here. And if I had to skip any section, what would be least missed.
3. Start the VdlP, Mozárabe, or some other route- Possibly better weather, but also would expect little to no interaction with other pilgrims. Like the Invierno, that's not a game stopper, but a consideration.

I welcome any route suggestions or observations on these options. Thanks in advance!

It might be nice to walk part of the the VdLP when it's not too hot. I've done Burgos to Leon and then bused to Ponferrada and walked from there. Just check when albergues start to close for the season. Should still be fine with other accomodations. I mention the Frances option only because you seem to be looking for a more communal experience, and you can usually find that on the Frances.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Meseta. Lots of nice small albergues. Buen Camino

 

[DTCamino]

Yeah, I've heard good things about the Madrid, but mostly it's from people walking that route in the spring or early summer. Do you think there is infrastructure there to support off-season Oct'/Nov walking?

I’m on the Madrid right now and the infrastructure is in place, but it’s different than the Frances. Two or three days there were no places for an intermediate stop for a meal, coffee or restroom so I carried food with me for these stretches. The albergues are open, but I’m staying in private accommodations except for 2 nights where
I stayed in the albergues. I thought I’d be the only peregrino on this trip but we are now up to 8 pilgrims in the town of Villalon de Campos and the others have only been staying in albergues.
The question is do you want a more rural Camino like the VLDP or Madrid, or a busier, but more established one like the Frances?

 

[Philtration]

I thought I’d be the only peregrino on this trip but we are now up to 8 pilgrims in the town of Villalon de Campos

We walked from Leon in early September 2019, and often walked alone, there were very few people until we reached Sarria. We were actually excited to meet with other pilgrims in the first few days, it was a novelty.

I guess it really is the luck of the draw. Thanks!

 

[Philtration]

Would appreciate hearing from anyone talk about infrastructure on the Invierno late Oct/early Nov.

Thanks!

 

[timpans]

I guess it really is the luck of the draw. Thanks!

I'm beginning my Camino on 22nd October with only 18 walking days. This is my first, so take it with a pinch of salt. I'm starting at Sarria, and from general feedback is that it has quietened down considerably by this time. I will then continue on to Camino de Fisterrais and Muxia; so another 100 or so k's. Some of the infrastructure shut down from November 1st, but there is still sufficient to support the vastly reduced number of walkers. Enjoy!

 

[peregrina2000]

Would appreciate hearing from anyone talk about infrastructure on the Invierno late Oct/early Nov.

Thanks!

I think the Invierno infrastructure is pretty much the same throughout the year. This is not the Camino Francés where a huge majority of accommodations are geared to pilgrims. On the Invierno, most of the places are regular pensiones and hotels. There are now a few albergues, but I think you will be fine even if they are closed. I walked the Invierno before there were any albergues and had no problem finding accommodation. It is a good idea to call in advance, though, just to alert people that you are going to be there.