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Favourite albergues and stops between Burgos-Santiago

In July 2009 I walked SJPP-Burgos, a wonderful, lifechanging experience. This summer I am going back, hopefully to finish my Camino. I will start where I stopped in 2009, in Burgos, I have 18 days to walk so I'll just get going and see if I have enough time to reach Santiago.

Before my walk in 2009 I added a post here asking the same question about the first part of the Camino. It was very helpful so now I'd like to ask about favourite places on the rest of the Camino. I had a plan before starting out last time, but as things change along the way it was great to have all the suggestions from pilgrims in this forum when I needed to change the plan.

My absolute favourite stops on the first part were L'Esprit du Chemin in SJPP, Ventosa and Grañon.

In Burgos I stayed in the new municipal albergue before leaving the Camino in 2009, I did not like that one. It was clean and new but huge and impersonal. Some of my pilgrim friends stayed in another albergue and they were very pleased with it, maybe someone here knows a good one in Burgos? I'd like to stay there before starting out.


Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
2002 CF: 2004 from Paris: 2006 VF: 2007 CF: 2009 Aragones, Ingles, Finisterre: 2011 X 2 on CF: 2013 'Caracoles': 2014 CF and Ingles 'Caracoles":2015 Logrono-Burgos (Hospitalero San Anton): 2016 La Douay to Aosta/San Gimignano to Rome:
If you like the small, more traditional albergues, which like Granon, might not have beds, some might not have electricity or running water, then you'll enjoy the following albergue:

*Arroyo San Bol - 1000yr old medicinal spring at the back, drop toilet – fantastic communal dinner. (Open April – mid October)
*Convento San Anton – magical, basic albergue in the ruins of the San Anton convent (Open to end of September)
*Hospital San Nicolas - – sleep in the loft of a restored church – communal meal cooked by Italian hospitaleros, pilgrim blessing includes washing of pilgrims feet (late June to mid-September)
*Bercianos – ancient straw and mud house, watch the sunset before being allowed to have a communal dinner
*Manjarin – Atmospheric albergue run by Tomas the Templar - basic, no running water, electricity or toilet. Sleep in a stone barn on mattresses – stay for the Templario blessing and ceremony at 11am. (Open all year)
*Villafranca del Bierzo - Ave Fenix run by the Jato family for almost 30 years – Jesus Jato is a healer. (Open all year)
*Ruitelin – Gregorian chants, Shiatsu massage, healing
*Barbadelo, Casa Carmen - skip Sarria and walk a further 4km to this wonderful private albergue.

Buen Camino!
There are several places that I liked between Burgos & Santiago. If you don't like the albergue in Burgos, I saw a small hotel on the way out of Burgos that had a camino name, so apparently it markets to pilgrims. It was close to the hospital, IIRC, and right on the Camino.

Probably my favorite albergue is the one in Boadilla that has the swimming pool. I believe that one is open until the end of September.

I also liked the private albergue in Santa Irene.



Active Member
Ruitelan: This was probably my favorite albergue of the whole camino. The guys running the place were great. The dinner there was delcicious.

Mansilla de las Mulas: Great atmosphere--especially if Laura is still there.

Molinaseca: I really liked this town and enjoyed staying there. I think there are a number of albergues. I stayed on the one on the right and side of the street leading out of town (near the end of town). It was new, very clean, modern. The hospitaleros were friendly and helpful.

Santa Irene--Private albergue...At this point in the camino we were looking for smaller albergues with less crowds and we really enjoyed this one for our last night before Santiago.


Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2009, Portuguese 2012
Frances 2016, (Frances 2019)
Two places stand out:

Roncesvalles: I liked the alberque. Yes it is VERY large and there are LOTS of pilgrims in one space but I liked the friendliness, the clean bathrooms, and the gentle wake-up with slowly rising lights and music.

Fonfria--very nice alberque (after Alto do Polo) but the dinner was outstanding! Homemade stew, large salad, pasta and dessert. Went down to the tiny bar for a drink before dinner--the population of the town is 6.

Private alberque in Santa Irene (go through the concrete tunnel to your left). We slept up in the loft area--sheets, towels, oh my! It was pouring down rain so couldn't enjoy the lovely backyard. We sat in the living area, shared wine and whatever anyone contributed to the table, a group of Frenchmen sang for us and we enjoyed a lovely dinner there as well.


Veteran Member
Glad you stayed in Granon and enjoyed it. I was a volunteer Hospitalero there for two weeks, and it was perhaps my best Camino experience ever.

Rabanal, about 3 hours past Astorga, is run by the English Confraternity of St. James. I arrived late, after 6:00 pm and in the pouring rain. Maybe it was the weather, or maybe it was the holspitaleros, but I never felt such "refuge" any where else along the Camino. Rabanal has a special vibe. The local monks have an evening service that I missed, but have heard is special.

Best wishes as you complete your Camino,
David, Victoria, Canada.

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