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About three kilometers out from Muxia may be found the Church of San Julian de Moraime, a 12th century JEWEL of a church usually closed, locked, appearing abandoned. I was "lucky" others perhaps not so much since on my approach the bell was ringing and thinking I might be late for the mass hurried on and into the church...to find a funeral in process. I was graciously received despite my appearance-5 weeks on the Camino does not enhance your haberdashery nor your tonsorial virtues The church is amazing, exterior and interior, and when all the mourners left I was left alone to my own devices and to enjoy the special atmosphere there. A flustered acolyte later returned to the church when they realized it was left open and after politely answering my questions in Spanglish politely showed me the door. Worth a visit even for only the exterior.A pilgrim I met on the meseta told me that Muxia was a far more attractive finish to the Camino than Finisterra. On reaching the fork in the road I decided to heed his advice. I'm glad I did. Relatively uncrowded, nice town, amazing views. Only two buses per day to Santiago, but this may help to keep the crowds down!
I "splurged" ($40 USD/nt) on a 2-night waterfront room in Muxia and took the afternoon bus out of Santiago. The next morning I got up at my regular pilgrim time and walked out to the church and lighthouse. I basically had the whole area to myself. Unbelievably beautiful and peaceful.
Later I walked to San Julian, which Scruffy mentions above. Another truly lovely walk. I was not as lucky as Scruffy as the church was closed. But I could peak through the window and appreciate the ancient interior, clearly still in active use. I don't think I saw more than 2 or 3 pilgrims the whole way out and back. But a herd of heavily-bearded goats trotted over to check me out.
Late in the afternoon I wandered back out to the church to watch dusk fall and then went to mass. The church was filled with hanging models of various fishing boats. What an unexpected and charming surprise (although I suspect maybe the story behind some of those boats may be more tragic than charming). Then an excellent fish dinner with two other pilgrims at a quiet seaside restaurant.
The following morning another woman and I took a private taxi tour of the coast. After being in Muxia, I was pretty taken aback by Finesterre. Kind of like being at the New Jersey shore. Those of you from the U.S. mid-Atlantic know exactly what I mean. Everyone else, well, you get the picture.
Our taxi guy, native Gallegan, drove straight through town (explaining he refuses to go there anymore), and out to the lighthouse. In spite of the still-heavy numbers of people, it was possible to soak up a bit of solitude, enjoy the beauty, and think how it must have been just a few years ago.
Sadly, all good things come to an end. There was a large resort already under construction on the edge of Muxia. And I fear it won't be long before this lovely little village becomes another tourist town, filled with ice cream shops, souvenir stands, trendy restaurants, and commercial hotels.
Next time, should I be so lucky, Pedron. Meanwhile, very special memories of Muxia.
There was a large resort already under construction on the edge of Muxia. And I fear it won't be long before this lovely little village becomes another tourist town, filled with ice cream shops, souvenir stands, trendy restaurants, and commercial hotels.
That's the way to experience it.For me it will always be Finisterre. It is best in a boat out in the bay watching the sunset under a Celtic, ethereal, magical sky. The wind whispers, the water cradles and for a little while, I am Celt and at home. I know the time will come when I must face forever in to the West and not return, but that which is at Finisterre will guide me.
Walk soft,
stay safe
and as ever
Vaya
con Dios.
The Malingerer
So true. Some people would rather finish in a tranquil spot and others enjoy a livelier atmosphere. What we have in common, though, is that we attach some importance to the end point. We may say that the Camino is not about reaching a particular place, that it's about the journey not the destination. But it turns out that many of us do have a preference about how we bring the Camino to a close ... and where.You know what this thread tells me? Not everybody likes the same things. Who would have thought that?
I took the sunset cruise last year. I enjoyed seeing the sunset from the boat, and it was a good deal at 12€ with wine and snacks included!I went dutifully to the Fisterra lighthouse in 2012 and 2015.... But in 2017 I got this sense that my lighthouse walks were over. Then, at lunch on the Fisterra waterfront, I was handed an advertiser for a sunset cruise to see the lighthouse from the sea side. Couldn't resist. Did it, enjoyed it, can recommend it for those who've done the burn-something thing....
crucerosfisterra Rutas en Barco por los mares del Cabo Finisterre
Rutas en Barco por los mares del Cabo Finisterrewww.crucerosfisterra.com
So, at last we know what Musha means.Muxia (from verb Muxir) in Galego means literally Milked (past tense of to Milk), so it has to do with the Milky Way
Padron was one of, if not THE most favorite places for me on my road from Porto. Actually, it felt more like my personal SdC.Looking through some old photo albums, revealing my age, and came across some yellowing phots from Fisterra/Finesterra, 15 years ago. Back then it was a long lovely walk out there to a modernish bustling port, the walk out to the Cabo was lonely but inspiring, and very cheap. My last visit revealed a different place, much more crowded, too much bustle and not in the port, no room in the inn so we took an unpleasant room from an abuela who had a sign in her window, and practiced our German in the bars and restaurants. The walk out to the lighthouse was as crowded as the path leading out of Sarria. No longer my cup of tea. There are other options Muxia being one of them. A better option might be a walk towards Portugal to Padrón, not far for those itinerary-conscious time-restricted and today much more inspiring - for starters the Iglesia de Santiago de Padrón. The church reveals the “Pedron” the large and ancient stone which claims the honor of that to which the boat carrying the body of Saint James was moored when he returned to Spain. In order to see it an attending priest may have to be…ah…persuaded to open the hatch inside the church, that which is in the courtyard is a copy. Padrón also offers the home and museum of Rosalía de Castro Galicia’s finest poet – see “Rosalía de Castro Selected Poems” Shearman Books. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria la Mayor of Iria Flavia and its porch. Did I mention pimentos padrón? Yes from here.
By "persuading" the attending priest to open the hatch do you mean bribe him? How is it done?Looking through some old photo albums, revealing my age, and came across some yellowing phots from Fisterra/Finesterra, 15 years ago. Back then it was a long lovely walk out there to a modernish bustling port, the walk out to the Cabo was lonely but inspiring, and very cheap. My last visit revealed a different place, much more crowded, too much bustle and not in the port, no room in the inn so we took an unpleasant room from an abuela who had a sign in her window, and practiced our German in the bars and restaurants. The walk out to the lighthouse was as crowded as the path leading out of Sarria. No longer my cup of tea. There are other options Muxia being one of them. A better option might be a walk towards Portugal to Padrón, not far for those itinerary-conscious time-restricted and today much more inspiring - for starters the Iglesia de Santiago de Padrón. The church reveals the “Pedron” the large and ancient stone which claims the honor of that to which the boat carrying the body of Saint James was moored when he returned to Spain. In order to see it an attending priest may have to be…ah…persuaded to open the hatch inside the church, that which is in the courtyard is a copy. Padrón also offers the home and museum of Rosalía de Castro Galicia’s finest poet – see “Rosalía de Castro Selected Poems” Shearman Books. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria la Mayor of Iria Flavia and its porch. Did I mention pimentos padrón? Yes from here.
I stayed a night and Day in Finisterra and enjoyed every minute. The people are warm and friendly and the village beautiful. Don’t sell it short too quickly.A pilgrim I met on the meseta told me that Muxia was a far more attractive finish to the Camino than Finisterra. On reaching the fork in the road I decided to heed his advice. I'm glad I did. Relatively uncrowded, nice town, amazing views. Only two buses per day to Santiago, but this may help to keep the crowds down!
Looking through some old photo albums, revealing my age, and came across some yellowing phots from Fisterra/Finesterra, 15 years ago. Back then it was a long lovely walk out there to a modernish bustling port, the walk out to the Cabo was lonely but inspiring, and very cheap. My last visit revealed a different place, much more crowded, too much bustle and not in the port, no room in the inn so we took an unpleasant room from an abuela who had a sign in her window, and practiced our German in the bars and restaurants. The walk out to the lighthouse was as crowded as the path leading out of Sarria. No longer my cup of tea. There are other options Muxia being one of them. A better option might be a walk towards Portugal to Padrón, not far for those itinerary-conscious time-restricted and today much more inspiring - for starters the Iglesia de Santiago de Padrón. The church reveals the “Pedron” the large and ancient stone which claims the honor of that to which the boat carrying the body of Saint James was moored when he returned to Spain. In order to see it an attending priest may have to be…ah…persuaded to open the hatch inside the church, that which is in the courtyard is a copy. Padrón also offers the home and museum of Rosalía de Castro Galicia’s finest poet – see “Rosalía de Castro Selected Poems” Shearman Books. The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria la Mayor of Iria Flavia and its porch. Did I mention pimentos padrón? Yes from
Totally agree. Finisterre for me has something magical about it. I found Muxia did not have the same friendliness.For me it will always be Finisterre. It is best in a boat out in the bay watching the sunset under a Celtic, ethereal, magical sky. The wind whispers, the water cradles and for a little while, I am Celt and at home. I know the time will come when I must face forever in to the West and not return, but that which is at Finisterre will guide me.
Walk soft,
stay safe
and as ever
Vaya
con Dios.
The Malingerer
World Family is a great place!I must be in the minority (I usually am), but I prefer Fisterra. In fact every time I have walked to Muxia (four times) I wished I stayed elsewhere. I find Muxia really unfriendly, the opposite of Fisterra. Plus due to the family run Cabo de Villa albergue in Fisterra it is like walking home, wonderful place, wonderful family. (First time there I met a pilgrim who stayed 5 months).
I don't walk to Santiago, I walk to Cabo de Villa!
Plus, Fisterra has 'The Family' (bar/hippy commune/albergue/nut house), and some of the local (not touristy) fishermans bars are extremely friendly too!
Davey
I stayed a night and Day in Finisterra and enjoyed every minute. The people are warm and friendly and the village beautiful. Don’t sell it short too quickly.
You can please some of the people some of the time, but you can't please all of the people all of the time !You know what this thread tells me? Not everybody likes the same things. Who would have thought that?
What time of year??Totally different experience here. In 2018 two fellow pilgrims at the 0 point. Long walks with no one there. Loved it. I guess it was preseason?
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