LIVE from the Camino From La Robla 24 Sep 2023

[MikeJS]

I have just walked up on the Camino Madrid, then a couple of less enjoyable days on the Frances from Sahigun to Leon and the a day on the San Salvador to La Robla today- and that was a wonderful stretch. I’ve got Enders app, his guide and omicko’s info as well as Enders Wicklow tracks. So I should be able to find my way OK.

Planning to go to Riello tomorrow where the lovely Camino angels from La Magia de La Nubes have promised to pick me up (WhatsApp +34 661977305). The onto Fasgar for the Albergue seems I may need to bring food with me. After Fasgar I’ll head to Iguena as I know it’s a bit of a climb, but also the options before Congosto seem limited. Then from there to Villafranca del Bierzo for more Frances chaos.

 

[peregrina2000]

On your way to the Olvidado, buen camino! Hope you were able to make contact with Ender.

Just to say that you will probably not find Fasgar to Igüeña (19) to be in your comfort range for walking distances. I have walked both Vegarienza to Igüeña and Fasgar to Quintana de Fuseros and enjoyed both of those days. But the Igüeña albergue is nice and the cafeteria across the street will serve food at any time, so it might be the perfect stopping place.

Since it will be a Sunday, I’m sure the bar in Colinas del Campo (a very cute little place with lots of homes redone) will be open and they have very good food. I never eat a meal while walking but the guy insisted on giving me some tapas when I stopped there last time for a long rest and they were very yummy.

 

[MikeJS]

I agree with you about the section after Fasgar but other options with a place to stay seem very limited. What’s the accommodation option in Quintana dF?

I can’t see CdC on the list of towns for tomorrow?

 

[peregrina2000]

I can’t see CdC on the list of towns for tomorrow?

Oh, you’re right, that town is after Fasgar and before Igüeña. It is the town with the longest name in Spain. Very cute, but likely to be shut up tight during the week out of summertime. My bad, sorry.

I stayed In Quintana de Fuseros at Casa rural El Caruzal in 2014, so that’s a long time ago, but I did some forum searching and see that @Bad Pilgrim stayed there last year.

They are very good people — when I arrived with no where to stay, the mayor called them. They were in Madrid, but sent a relative to open the house for me. They told me to leave the keys on the table and to leave whatever I thought was a fair price. I think they charge pilgrims about 30€. (In 2022, I checked for someone and they told me it was 28 for one, 35 for 2). It’s nothing fancy, but clean and comfortable.

They are on WhatsApp and the number is 34 616 65 96 38

 

[MikeJS]

Oh, you’re right, that town is after Fasgar and before Igüeña. It is the town with the longest name in Spain. Very cute, but likely to be shut up tight during the week out of summertime. My bad, sorry.

I stayed In Quintana de Fuseros at Casa rural El Caruzal in 2014, so that’s a long time ago, but I did some forum searching and see that @Bad Pilgrim stayed there last year.

They are very good people — when I arrived with no where to stay, the mayor called them. They were in Madrid, but sent a relative to open the house for me. They told me to leave the keys on the table and to leave whatever I thought was a fair price. I think they charge pilgrims about 30€. (In 2022, I checked for someone and they told me it was 28 for one, 35 for 2). It’s nothing fancy, but clean and comfortable.

They are on WhatsApp and the number is 34 616 65 96 38

Wonderful. Thank you.

 

[MikeJS]

I’ve messaged QdF but they are closed so plan A remains.

 

[MikeJS]

La Robla to Riello via La Magdelena 34kms

Started at around 0645 this morning as I had to be at Riello no later than 1530 when Laura and Ana finished work. There were a few hills on the way so I wanted to ensure I had ample time. That said, I got here at 1330. It was a great walk today and the weather stayed fine. However, it was only 2 degrees when I left. The walk from LR to LM was very simple and a fairly constant uphill gradient until the final section that heads down to LM. Mostly on or near the road but I did not see a vehicle the whole way. After that it gets really interesting as there are quite a few ups and downs and gets to 1298m at its highest point. Great tracks with lots of variety and fantastic scenery. Reminds me of what the Camino is about for me. Off to Fasgar tomorrow but not sure what time I’ll get to start as I need the ladies to give me a lift back to Riello when they go to work.

 

[Quietways]

Have a lovely camino, Mike. (I walked the same route this May) The albergue in Fasgar keeps the cabinet stocked with pasta, beans, etc But If you have the option to stuff pockets with extras enroute - might be a good idea. The Ovidido can be a lean experience

Worth mentioning my cell service cut out approaching Fasgar and it didn't return until out of the mountains until late the next day in Iguena. A local said only Moviestar works in the area (I use Orange cell).

The pass after Fasgar is written up as being difficult, but it's short and felt it was quite easy. I was impressed though with the decent - long and rocky into a beautiful valley and alongside a river….this is probably the only camino bit i've walked in Spain that actually feels like a hike (hike in the good sense, not the derisive sense used on this forum It's also a section that i think could have improved trail markings. (walked during a big storm, visibility was an issue times and there were a couple areas that needed extra care). Iguena has a well stocked small grocery store and as Peregrina mentions a very nice albergue.

 

[MikeJS]

Have a lovely camino, Mike. (I walked the same route this May) The albergue in Fasgar keeps the cabinet stocked with pasta, beans, etc But If you have the option to stuff pockets with extras enroute - might be a good idea. The Ovidido can be a lean experience

Worth mentioning my cell service cut out approaching Fasgar and it didn't return until out of the mountains until late the next day in Iguena. A local said only Moviestar works in the area (I use Orange cell).

The pass after Fasgar is written up as being difficult, but it's short and felt it was quite easy. I was impressed though with the decent - long and rocky into a beautiful valley and alongside a river….this is probably the only camino bit i've walked in Spain that actually feels like a hike (hike in the good sense, not the derisive sense used on this forum It's also a section that i think could have improved trail markings. (walked during a big storm, visibility was an issue times and there were a couple areas that needed extra care). Iguena has a well stocked small grocery store and as Peregrina mentions a very nice albergue.

Thank you very much.

 

[MikeJS]

As I am staying at Laura and Anna’s place tonight I see no point in them having to get going early to take me back to Riello. So I checked on Mapy.cz and there seems to be a good track to El Castillo which is on route to Fasgar so I plan to walk from here.

 

[MikeJS]

Robles I de Oman’s (La Magia del las Nubes) to Fasgar 26kms

Stayed at Laura and Anna’s place last night as planned and saw little point in them having to get going early to take me back to Riello. So I checked on Mapy.cz and there seems to be a good track to El Castillo which is on route to Fasgar so I took that this morning. It was a lovely route and quite easy to follow. The only slight hiccup was at Santibanez de Arienza where there were 8 large and very barky dogs in the road. I just kept walking and waved my hiking stick ( it’s about the only time I ever use it!) and the more determined ones. They have in after about 100m but if you do not like dogs they could be a problem. The rest of the way was a gradual climb through lots of little places following the valley up to Fasgar. In the Albergue now, with another Spanish pilgrim. Unfortunately, the bar next door that is supposed to at least rolls has no food as they have no bread!! It looks like tuna agin tonight. Off to Iguena tomorrow. Only 19km but over the 2nd highest pass on the Camino and little choice afterwards. I walked over what is supposed to be the highest when I walked the Madrid into Segovia a few days back.

 

[MikeJS]

Fasgar to Iguena 20km

It was a lovely walk. About 3.5km yo the top which took me just under an hour and a simple track to follow. Fantastic views when you get to the top looking down to a broad valley with a stream running through it. From there the track is all just about downhill. However, much of it from the hermitage is on very rough ground which is very rocky. Would not want to do it in the wet. Collinas del Campo de Martin Moro Toledano is a pretty place but appeared closed. Lots of recent of wild boars through the valley but no sightings! Albergue here is very nice but unfortunately the bar is closed!! However, another on down the road, Anabel, is open until 1530 and the little shop next door is open until 1430. So it’s a bit of shopping ready for tomorrow then an early dinner. One of those strange Spanish things today is that I had a 3 course menu La dia with wine coffee and an apertivo. My Spanish Camino friend had 2 small beers and a few croquettes. My bill was 14 euros his was 15! Off to Congosto tomorrow about 38km but the mountains are behind me now! Added a photo of the type of dog from the other day. This one was a little more friendly!

 

[MikeJS]

Iguena to Congosto 35 km
A very pleasant and simple walk today with lots of very grand sweet chestnuts trees, holly oaks and cork bark oaks. A few ups and downs but nothing overly significant. I lets about 45 mins before sunrise when there was adequate light to walk by as I wanted to try to complete the day without too much full sunshine. As it happens this got me up the to of the first hill to be able to see the sun rise. Congosto is a relatively small town with a good Albergue but the only bar does not make meals. However, they do have the Spanish equivalent of pasties so I’m ok. Off to Villafranca tomorrow which is the formal end of the Olvidado and then back to the crowds on the Frances for the last 5 days of so.



As always I used Enders Wikiloc tracks, the way markers and mapy. Normally this mostly coincide and any differences are less than a km different. However, this was not the case today. Just after Quintana de Fuseros the way markers and Wikiloc took a right turn and then drifts across a few places and heads to Noceda. No idea why as the mapy option look much better and head s more directly to Labaniego. It certainly appears better if like me you intend to carry on to Congosto. As I followed Enders track and then took an alternate route to join the Camino at Atlanta.

 

[peregrina2000]

heads to Noceda.

That is because there is now an albergue in Noceda. Are you saying that if you don’t want to sleep in the albergue, it’s better to stay on the “old route” to Labaniego directly? Does the route through Noceda bypass Labaniego? I’ve not walked since the albergue there opened, but I know some local politics is also involved.

 

[MikeJS]

Yes, if you don’t want to go to Noceda then use the route on mapy. More direct and fewer roads. In any case the Albergue in Noceda does not look like a great option as it seems a long way from anything. The new route goes to No Ed’s and then setback to Labaniego. If you wanted to stay at Noceda there would be no point then going to Labaniego. Better to head directly to Congosto.

 

[Quietways]

However, this was not the case today. Just after Quintana de Fuseros the way markers and Wikiloc took a right turn and then drifts across a few places and heads to Noceda. No idea why as the mapy option look much better and head s more directly to Labaniego. It certainly appears better if like me you intend to carry on to Congosto.

I agree - it's is a very odd stage. The apps and trail markers are all out of sync here. The Olvidado association should have a contact number though and imagine they'll address this at some point. From Noceda i found myself almost an hour off track from Lebaniego.

 

[MikeJS]

I agree - it's is a very odd stage. The apps and trail markers are all out of sync here. The Olvidado association should have a contact number though and imagine they'll address this at some point. From Noceda i found myself almost an hour off track from Lebaniego.

Fortunately, I was not going to Labaniego so it did not cost me. Feels like a diversion to Nocieda just because there is an Albergue there. Seems the wrong way around- Albergues need to be where the path goes!

 

[MikeJS]

Congosto to Villafranca 38km

Yesterday had one of those little Camino moments. After doing my chores I went across to the bar for a pasty and a beer( or 2). In the bar listening to me trying to establish what time they closed and how to pronounce the names of the various pasties was what turned out to be a French lady who helped me out. She asked if I was ok for food and things and I confirmed all was well. She, Natasha, lives in a nearby village called San Justo de Cabanillas and mentioned they have lots of fruit. About 2 hours later a car pulls up outside the Albergue and a man jumps out to give me a bag from Natasha full of pears and grapes! Turns out he works at the Rock Suites and Spa next to the church on top of the hill overlooking Congosto. He said that sometimes pilgrims stay there! When I looked it was a min of around 88euros. Whereas here tonight I have a wonderful single apartment complete with on suite facilities and a ExpressPro machine - all for a donation ! Still, I bet I could get a proper meal up there! Back to today’s walk. The walk from Congosto to Cabanas Raras was fairly dull, mostly because it was almost exclusively on tarmac. Although there are some non road alternates that Enders did not use for some reason. Only 4km or so on the other side of the reservoir. However, the highlight was having a wolf run across the road about 150m in front of me. By the time I got my phone camera out it was too far away to get a good shot. Hopefully, I will be able to do something with it when I get home. Quite surprised to see one there as it was near an industrial unit and a relatively busy road. Far more expected to see one after Fasgar especially after all the locals there said don’t start you walk up the hill until full daylight owing to the bears and wolfs! The rest of the walk was mostly on tracks and it joins the Frances at Cacabelos where I met the crowds. Pleasant stroll into Villafranca and the one good thing here is that there are loads of places to eat! Off to ??? not sure yet owing to a lack of booking! But around 38km or so.

 

[MikeJS]

A very short summary of my partial Camino Olvidado from La Robla (I walked the other half pre Covid when I then walked up the Salvador and onto the Primitivo) I still consider the Olvidado to be the best as far as the scenery and experience goes. I’ve walked around 10 others so far. However, if the Olvidado really is the gain greater popularity then it is essential that somehow they improve the services and bars/food so it coincides with more of the Albergues. I stayed in some great places and met some wonderful people but I did get a bit bored with my limited, although adequate, menus. There were few bars open on the way during the day, except for one place today that had 3 bars open all within a 100m of each other! Personally, I prefer the empty Caminos but it’s not good for the local prosperity.

 

[mla1]

Yes, if you don’t want to go to Noceda then use the route on mapy. More direct and fewer roads. In any case the Albergue in Noceda does not look like a great option as it seems a long way from anything. The new route goes to No Ed’s and then setback to Labaniego. If you wanted to stay at Noceda there would be no point then going to Labaniego. Better to head directly to Congosto.

I stayed in Noceda in the spring. It’s a very good albergue and there is apparently a bar about 5 minutes away, but it was closed the day I was there. The Camino goes from there through Lebaniego on the way to Congosto.

 

[MikeJS]

As I am staying at Laura and Anna’s place tonight I see no point in them having to get going early to take me back to Riello. So I checked on Mapy.cz and there seems to be a good track to El Castillo which is on route to Fasgar so I plan to walk from here.

Here is the Wikiloc track - https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?pic=hiking-trails&slug=robledo-de-omana&id=148207560&rd=en