Going Primitivo and gluten free

[RebaWeber]

Hello everybody, I am just starting out researching and I am really drawn to the Primitivo route. Partly because it is the oldest, and partly because I am a Celt, and visiting the city of Lugo seems appropriate

I have celiac/coeliac disease so cannot eat or drink gluten in any form. I also have other food intolerances, such as all other grains, and I can't eat legumes. I know this may seriously limit my options at bars and albergues, but how about shopping in local markets? I'm thinking of travelling in the autumn 2015, or possibly 2016 depending how long it takes me to save up enough money. I have seen threads about gluten free options along all the other routes, but so far have found no information along the Primitivo.

If I bring a backpacker stove can I find stove fuel somewhere in Asturias (where I plan to land) or in Oviedo? Can I cook my own food along the way if I need to? Do the albergues have kitchens, should I bring my cooking pots? Will I be able to camp out with a tent, or rough it anywhere along the route? I know the albergues are smaller along this route, and further between in some stages. I'm concerned about carrying a lot of weight of course, but I will most definitely need to carry a lot of my own food. Plus, I will most likely be travelling solo. I'm used to roughing it though, I've been back country camping a fair bit. I'm Canadian, I can take it!

I may only have 2 weeks to do this, so I'm really hoping I can get it done! I'm pretty sure I can do 25km every day, but only if I have food! It'll be a challenge, but that's the whole point isn't it?

 

[evanlow]

Hi RabaWeber,

The albergues usually has a kitchen (don't expect anything more than a stove). A few places the guide actually tells you to get food at a provision shop a few km before the albergue at it is a small hamlet so no bars or restaurants at the hamlet.

If you can survive with provisions from the shop and cook then you will be alright. Don't expect a supermarket. It is just a small alimentacion, except of course in Oviedo, Tineo, Grandas, Fonsagrada, Lugo and when you join Camino Frances in Melide.

 

[RebaWeber]

Thank you Evan, that's helpful.

what is the best guide to buy for this route? And where would I get it?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I have celiac/coeliac disease so cannot eat or drink gluten in any form. I also have other food intolerances, such as all other grains, and I can't eat legumes.

Hella RebaWeber,

I know how difficult it can be for celiacs ton ensure they are eating well while staying away from the foods that do not suit them. How tolerant are you to potatoes? I know some people who can have them, others who don't. If you can have them, then your breakfast can be made up of fresh fruit, tortilla de patatas (potatoes, eggs and ... quite bit of oil), as well as the mandatory cafe con leche. If you can't have potatoes then breakfast will not be as easy as the staples are toasted bred or croissants. No 2 eggs sunny side up with a side of bacon unfortunately (but you can find something similar to this in the evening Pilgrim's meal). In that case buy ham and dairy products from the local store the night before (if the albergue has a refrigerator, which is also not always the case unfortunately).

While you will have to stay away from the bocadillo (sandwhich) you can still indulge in the delicious cheeses, chorizos (cured and pimenton flavoured sausage), jamon serrano (curred hams) - I never have bocadillo as I find the bred to be quite dry and stale, even if it is fresh. Of course there is always the enlada mixta (letuce, oinion, tomatoes, olives, tuna - just ask them not to include the corn). You can get more options if you chose to have your main meal for lunch (2-4 pm) and then just snack in the evenings. Evening Pilgrim's menus typically offer slices of fried up pork, rice dishes which you could probably eat with no problem. Good snack can include dark chocolate, fresh fruit bought at the local store, nuts and dried fruits. For desert yogurts, cuajada and flan. If you are ordering fried fish or meats, ask them if they will bread them or not.

So no garlic soup (is made with bred), no favada (made with legumes), no bocadillo or tostadas but still lots of meats, cured meats, fresh veggies and fruit (quite expensive despite being often locally grown), canned tuna, and lots of potatoes if you can have them, rice based dishes, chocolate and cheese. I think you should be ok as long as you ask lots of questions (practice those key sentences in Spanish before leaving!). And between you and I, typical Pilgrim meals to get a bit boring for all after a while unless you eat in "proper" restaurants for your lunch. ;0)

Good luck!

 

[Tia Valeria]

Thank you Evan, that's helpful.

what is the best guide to buy for this route? And where would I get it?

If you use the CSJ guide it gives plenty of information, including accomodation etc. Available from CSK UK though their bookshop.
I would suggest that you carry some emergency rations with you, we carry a tin of sardines, and you would maybe want to include rice biscuits. A few supermarkets in the cities (Oviedo, Lugo) may have gluten free products, but in smaller towns you will need to check what is available.
I think @Robo was trying to work out how to cook rice easily and someone suggested 'cooking' in a small thermos just with the rice and hot water. You might like to PM him to see exactly how it is done. An electric coil might be useful to ensure that you can heat water for it. (The albergue kitchens are not always well equipped, but a stove might be difficult to fuel.)
We have allergies and have found that packaged food is usually well labelled and that as most places cook from scratch they can leave allergens out. If your Spanish is not good then a laminated card with an explanation is a good idea. Platos combinados often give more choice than menu del dia and the Primitivo was very different for us in that it didn't really do menu de peregrino like the Francés, although that might have changed now.
We can recommend the private albergue O Candido at San Roman de Retorta where the hospitalero has a varied menu which he brings in from Lugo - order on arrival and before about 17.30, otherwise you may have to carry your food from Lugo to be sure you can eat it. No shop except a very small one in the bar 1km before the 2 albergues. (This is the sort of info in the CSJ guide)
Hopefully others will be able to offer more up to date advice as they walk the Primitivo this coming year - it was 2012 when we walked and things change.
Buen Camino

 

[ebrandt]

Hi Reba -- I thought I would add that I have put together a guide for my husband and I to use next summer when we walk the Primitivo. I have tried to collect together the most complete info on all the albergues and specifically kitchens from a number of different sources. I've shared it in the Camino Resources section of this forum here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...tiago-and-then-to-muxia-finisterre-guide.225/

 

[Tia Valeria]

I meant to add the Gronze on-line guide and info, which seems to update fairly regularly. (I haven't checked whether @ebrandt has it on her list - )

 

[evanlow]

Hi Reba,

I did it in 2007 just following an online guide which I printed out. Unfortunately the site is no longer around. I guess Liz and Tia have posted links which looks like this is all you need for the guide.

Good on your preparation and Happy 2015!

 

[ebrandt]

I meant to add the Gronze on-line guide and info, which seems to update fairly regularly. (I haven't checked whether @ebrandt has it on her list - )

Reba, my info is based on Gronz.com, the Eroski consumer site, the CSJ Guide and the Cicerone Guide, plus comments on the forum and feedback from folks who have looked at the guide. I haven't walked the Primitivo yet so it's all second hand.

I love Tia's suggestion of a card with Spanih language info. We walked the Frances in 2013 with a Finnish woman who has celiac. She didn't speak much Spanish and had trouble communicating her needs especially in some of the more rural locations.

Buen Camino, Liz

 

[Shairn]

Hello everybody, I am just starting out researching and I am really drawn to the Primitivo route. Partly because it is the oldest, and partly because I am a Celt, and visiting the city of Lugo seems appropriate

I have celiac/coeliac disease so cannot eat or drink gluten in any form. I also have other food intolerances, such as all other grains, and I can't eat legumes. I know this may seriously limit my options at bars and albergues, but how about shopping in local markets? I'm thinking of travelling in the autumn 2015, or possibly 2016 depending how long it takes me to save up enough money. I have seen threads about gluten free options along all the other routes, but so far have found no information along the Primitivo.

If I bring a backpacker stove can I find stove fuel somewhere in Asturias (where I plan to land) or in Oviedo? Can I cook my own food along the way if I need to? Do the albergues have kitchens, should I bring my cooking pots? Will I be able to camp out with a tent, or rough it anywhere along the route? I know the albergues are smaller along this route, and further between in some stages. I'm concerned about carrying a lot of weight of course, but I will most definitely need to carry a lot of my own food. Plus, I will most likely be travelling solo. I'm used to roughing it though, I've been back country camping a fair bit. I'm Canadian, I can take it!

I may only have 2 weeks to do this, so I'm really hoping I can get it done! I'm pretty sure I can do 25km every day, but only if I have food! It'll be a challenge, but that's the whole point isn't it?

I

 

[Shairn]

I survived the Camino Portuguese gluten free on sardines, rice crackers, olives, nuts, fresh fruits and veggies, salada mixta, antipasto, caldo verde, meat, and Spanish tortillas, which are very satisfying. The good part is that most food is freshly made with few ingredients, and awareness of the GF diet tends to be better in Europe. There isn't a lot of gluten in the food if you avoid bread and breaded foods. The problem is of course access to fresh food when you are hiking.

 

[RebaWeber]

Anemone, thank you! Great info there. Currently I am suffering a Sjogren's Syndrome flair so I am following the Paleo Autoimmune Protocol diet, which excludes all grains (including rice), all nightshades, (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers etc), all legumes, eggs, nuts, seeds, and dairy. I'm hoping this elimination will put this particular disease into remission, and that by the time I start my Camino I will have re-introduced some of these foods. I do know that legumes and corn particularly are not good for me, (I suspect it was lentils that triggered this flare) and rice only very occasionally. White potatoes don't sit well with me either, so the tortillas de patatas may not be an option for me, I'm not sure. Oh, and coffee being a seed, is also off my menu for now. What's in the cafe con leche? Is it coffee and cream? I might have to bring tea with me...I do hope I can have coffee again though! I started this elimination diet in November, and it can sometimes take a few months to get into remission, hopefully not too long though.

Generally speaking, I don't eat packaged foods anyway, so packaged gluten free foods aren't part of my daily routine ever. I typically stick with foods that Mother Nature made naturally free from gluten, vegetables, fruits, meats, etc. I'm guessing that cured meats along the route would be gluten free, if made locally. It's generally only massed produced North American crap that puts gluten in cured meats. I will have to attempt sardines sometime before my trip, I've never been able to eat them, (it's a smell and texture thing) but I will need some sort of protein that's easy to carry.

Tia, yes thank you. I plan to carry a few celiac travel cards with me, but I also plan to learn Spanish in the next few months before my trip so hopefully I won't have too much trouble. I learned French as a kid (have to in Canada, it's mandatory in school). I discovered a few years ago that the similarities are enough that I can make out Spanish as well. I just need to practice both I will get that guide book too.

Liz, I've seen your guide posted, thank you for all your hard work! I will most definitely be going over it in detail. I'll be most interested for an update after you've completed the Primitivo

And Sharin thank you for that! It's comforting to know that other celiacs have survived the trek. I'm always afraid of cross contamination every time I go out to eat, so the thought of eating in a foreign country where I don't speak the language very well is actually quite terrifying to me! If I were to get glutened while away, I would have to cut my Camino short, as I would not be able to move for days, my reaction is so severe

Does anyone camp on this route, or is this not allowed? I'm also quite terrified of bringing bed bugs home, (do the albergues have any problem with these?) and don't have any issues about sleeping outside alone if it's permitted.

Thank you everybody for your help! I very much appreciate it, and no doubt I will have many more questions

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Anemone, thank you! Great info there. Currently I am suffering a Sjogren's Syndrome flair so I am following the Paleo Autoimmune Protocol diet, which excludes all grains (including rice), all nightshades, (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers etc), all legumes, eggs, nuts, seeds, and dairy. I'm hoping this elimination will put this particular disease into remission, and that by the time I start my Camino I will have re-introduced some of these foods. I do know that legumes and corn particularly are not good for me, (I suspect it was lentils that triggered this flare) and rice only very occasionally. White potatoes don't sit well with me either, so the tortillas de patatas may not be an option for me, I'm not sure. Oh, and coffee being a seed, is also off my menu for now. What's in the cafe con leche? Is it coffee and cream? I might have to bring tea with me...I do hope I can have coffee again though! I started this elimination diet in November, and it can sometimes take a few months to get into remission, hopefully not too long though.

Hello Reba,

And I thought vegetarians had it tough on the Camino. By the sounds of it, all their go to foods, or just about, are off limits to you. I find regular Paleo difficult enough at home and in a full kitchen!

No eggs, no fermented dairy (other than Kefir by the sounds of it, but unlikely to be found in rural and semi-rural Spain), no nuts and seeds, no paprika -so no chorizo- (just google Paleo autoimune protocol), no chocolate, no tomatoes and peppers, it will be a very boring menu while you walk. As for cafe con leche, yes, it's basically a "late", so off limits as well I take it.

At least you can have olive oil. Avocados are also easy to find. Well, the good news is that Spaniards do love their meats, but it will cost you a pretty penny as will fresh fruits. At least the cost will be offset by all you will save not having tortilla and cafe con leches . Canned sea food may become a staple for lunches, so start getting used to the taste of canned tuna, smoked oysters etc. The variety of fresh and frozen seafood will amaze you - so that's a plus. I can't recall seeing yams, but that may just be because I don't cook much on the Camino and don't look for them.

I hope you are able to reintroduce at least tomates, peppers (try pimientos del Padron if you can have them and find them in Galicia) and eggs. That will help a lot.

There are not as many algergue options on the Primitivo, but perhaps you can email them and ask if their kitchen includes a refrigerator, and then pick those that do. This way to can keep left overs for breakfast. And in case there is no refirgerator, bring a tupperware and small cooling lunch bag with you and ask for ice at the local bar to keep things cool overnight. Here is a site where you will be able to find contact information for the various Primitivo algergues: http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/primitivo/

I hope this help, and good luck Reba.

 

[RebaWeber]

oh thanks for the link, I will definitely have a look at that!

I do love olives and avocados and pretty much all seafood, (even squid and octopus, as long as it doesn't still look like a squid or octopus! ) so I'm hoping that I won't have too many difficulties. I do like to prepare though, so getting this early start will help me feel better. Last summer I went camping for a week solo with my dog (he wasn't much help when I was trying to put up our rain shelter!) and I was online for weeks getting ready. I still ended up having to get help with my new camp stove though, but now I'm a pro It was a miserable week as to weather, but we survived it and I felt very accomplished doing it I had considered doing a week solo backpacking interior of Algonquin Park this year, until I saw the movie "The Way" then I changed my plan the only difference is there are more pilgrims along this route than there are in Algonquin Park, and likely fewer bears.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Algonquin Park ... the only difference is there are more pilgrims along this route than there are in Algonquin Park, and likely fewer bears.

The mosquitos! Don't forget the Canadian mosquitos, and the humidity we get here. Hence why I don't walk here as beautiful as some of our parcs are ;0)

If you walk all the way to Santiago, since you like octopus, don't forget to eat some in Melide (pulperia Ezquiel is apparently the place to have it), just ask them not to put paprika (pimenton) on it when they serve it if you still can't have it. But it will look like though, a whole half squid ;0)

 

[RebaWeber]

Fortunately the weather was so crappy the week I was there last summer that there weren't even any mosquitoes!

I shall try the squid, and maybe ask them to cut it up in smaller bits so it doesn't look like a squid

I do hope to be able to walk the whole of the Primitivo from Oviedo to Santiago. I don't know what my job situation will be by the Fall (another ambition I have for this year is to quit my day job and start my own Health Coaching business. I will get my certificate in May) so I'm not sure how long I will be able to be away. I hope it's doable in 2 weeks time. If not, I suppose I will maybe skip a day or 2 of walking in the middle, then finish up the last 100km as required for the certificate. We'll see what happens when I get there.

 

[RebaWeber]

oh, I just thought of another question.

How necessary do you think hiking poles are for the Primitivo? I understand there is a few rather hilly spots. My budget is limited as well as time, so if it can be done without, I will likely try without (and curse myself when I have to slide down the hill on my butt ). I just saw the price of poles, and I think they're quite ridiculous. Maybe I can find some sticks...

 

[ebrandt]

oh, I just thought of another question.

How necessary do you think hiking poles are for the Primitivo? I understand there is a few rather hilly spots. My budget is limited as well as time, so if it can be done without, I will likely try without (and curse myself when I have to slide down the hill on my butt ). I just saw the price of poles, and I think they're quite ridiculous. Maybe I can find some sticks...

Oh Reba -- You have asked a loaded question!!!!! There are as many opinions on this as there are members of the forum! Here is a link to a recent thread on this in the Primitivo list: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ks-on-the-camino-primitivo.26789/#post-236466. As you will see I think the Poles are invaluable for any distance walking! but you will get some good opinions from this thread. Buen Camino, LIz

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Oh Reba -- You have asked a loaded question!!!!! There are as many opinions on this as there are members of the forum! Here is a link to a recent thread on this in the Primitivo list: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ks-on-the-camino-primitivo.26789/#post-236466. As you will see I think the Poles are invaluable for any distance walking! but you will get some good opinions from this thread. Buen Camino, LIz

I have always found them useful when I need to push up or over, as in when avoiding a puddle or going along a steep hill. I have also heard that they can take off up to 25% of the stress on your legs and knees. To get the most out of them, you need to have good arm strength. Learned that the hard way ;0)

From experience I say bring two: when walking with only one I left my other hand hanging down and it swole and swole and swole. At first I didn't know why so I was quite scared. Go on Ebay, you'll find many at a good price I'm sure. The lighter the better, but even better is something in your budget.

 

[RebaWeber]

Thank you both, I shall have a look at that other thread and read thru.

I have started getting gear for my trip that I don't already have (which isn't much really). I got a double size bedbug sheet on amazon.ca. It's really lightweight, as is my sleeping bag (a backpacker's bag) so I can sew the double size sheet in half and put my sleeping bag in it to (hopefully) prevent getting bit and taking home bed bugs. I will also probably make a couple of bedbug repellent sachets, and put them in/on my backpack to keep the bugs out. I've never had bed bugs, and I want to keep it that way.

And, I think I've convinced a friend to travel with me. He's on sabbatical starting in June and was looking for something adventurous to do