LIVE from the Camino Live from Norte

[camino07]

Having rest day at comfortable Pension Zubia in Bilbao after a hard few days from Irun.
Many climbs and many beautiful views but it would help to be fit and younger than us:-/ going to take the advice of wise pilgrims on the forum and walk the river route out of here in the morning. There were about 30 to 40 pilgs on the way with us, hope we meet up with some again. Have been too exhausted to post up to now. Oh and now I know why albergues don't open until 1600 on the Norte ...you don't get in until near then.

 

[peregrina2000]

Enjoy the norte, camino07, looking forward to more frequent posts as you build up strength and run up and down from headland to beach and back up again just like a little mountain goat! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[naplesdon]

Having rest day at comfortable Pension Zubia in Bilbao after a hard few days from Irun.
Many climbs and many beautiful views but it would help to be fit and younger than us:-/ going to take the advice of wise pilgrims on the forum and walk the river route out of here in the morning. There were about 30 to 40 pilgs on the way with us, hope we meet up with some again. Have been too exhausted to post up to now. Oh and now I know why albergues don't open until 1600 on the Norte ...you don't get in until near then.

That has always been my impression of what the entire route would be like so thank you for the confirmation. The walk from Biarritz to Hendaye is not so strenuous because it follows a cornice most of the way but whenever I drive to Bilbao, I can only imagine looking at the landscape along the coast that it must be a continuous slog up and down hill at every inlet along the coast.

 

[jpflavin1]

Having rest day at comfortable Pension Zubia in Bilbao after a hard few days from Irun.
Many climbs and many beautiful views but it would help to be fit and younger than us:-/ going to take the advice of wise pilgrims on the forum and walk the river route out of here in the morning. There were about 30 to 40 pilgs on the way with us, hope we meet up with some again. Have been too exhausted to post up to now. Oh and now I know why albergues don't open until 1600 on the Norte ...you don't get in until near then.

Camino07:

I just completed this walk earlier this year. I found it the most difficult in the beginning. It becomes gradually easier as you go on but there will still be several tough climbs. The last third is actually the easiest, imo.

The Norte offers several alternative routes almost daily. If you like the ocean views, I recommend taking the coastal routes. In particular from Pendueles. The route does intersect often with the E-9 and the Ocean views are really beautiful. Enjoy your day off and consider contacting MendiWalker a forum member who lives in Bilbao. He loves showing forum members around his city.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[peregrino_tom]

I agree with Joe - you've done a lot of the hardest work now, but there are still a few tests ahead: esp. if you take the longer wilder inland option after Islares and via Liendo. Also the section between Villaviciosa and Gijon (where you'll wonder for a couple of hours whether the Primitivo mightn't have been a wiser option... ).

 

[johns]

met mendiwalker on 11 may really nice guy.

 

[jpflavin1]

I agree with Joe - you've done a lot of the hardest work now, but there are still a few tests ahead: esp. if you take the longer wilder inland option after Islares and via Liendo. Also the section between Villaviciosa and Gijon (where you'll wonder for a couple of hours whether the Primitivo mightn't have been a wiser option... ).

Tom is correct here. The inland route after Islares has it moments but the option is to walk the highway. The Albergue in Liendo is nice (6 euro's). The Hospitalera is a nice woman and the Albergue is very clean with cooking facilities. There is a small grocery store and a couple of restaurants. One is very nice. They also have a washing machine, which is free, along with detergent. The walk from Villaviciosa to Gijon has two tough climbs but your body should be in good Camino shape by then. The next day to Aviles is a very industrial walk, possibly the least attractive day on the Norte.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[OzAnnie]

That has always been my impression of what the entire route would be like so thank you for the confirmation. The walk from Biarritz to Hendaye is not so strenuous because it follows a cornice most of the way but whenever I drive to Bilbao, I can only imagine looking at the landscape along the coast that it must be a continuous slog up and down hill at every inlet along the coast.

Hmmmmmm, hmmmmmm
This route was 'top of my list' to do this sep /oct. I had followed blog of shefollowsshells and Neve seemed to bound through it. Recent posts by Camino 07 + +. Is leaving me to doubt whether I'll be 'knackered' . Also looking at possibility of swinging down the Primitivo. Looks so easy in print.
Is it that difficult ?
Annie

 

[mralisn]

Thank you for the current information. Will be returning to the CN in two weeks and this time combine with the Primitivo. The CN did bring some frustrations when was made to climb up only to look down at the E-9 along the sea. Many times the route made no sense to me, but then again, I am on the Camino so life is good.

Again, thank you to anyone who keeps giving the updates.

Salud,
Simeon

 

[Steeltown Pilgrim]

Hmmmmmm, hmmmmmm
This route was 'top of my list' to do this sep /oct. I had followed blog of shefollowsshells and Neve seemed to bound through it. Recent posts by Camino 07 + +. Is leaving me to doubt whether I'll be 'knackered' . Also looking at possibility of swinging down the Primitivo. Looks so easy in print.
Is it that difficult ?
Annie

Having done them both, I think you will find the Primitivo a little more "knackering". I would recommend it heartily though--it's utterly spectacular.

 

[jpflavin1]

Hmmmmmm, hmmmmmm
This route was 'top of my list' to do this sep /oct. I had followed blog of shefollowsshells and Neve seemed to bound through it. Recent posts by Camino 07 + +. Is leaving me to doubt whether I'll be 'knackered' . Also looking at possibility of swinging down the Primitivo. Looks so easy in print.
Is it that difficult ?
Annie

OzAnnie:

The Norte has a difficult beginning, then eases somewhat in the middle and the last third is the easiest, imo. That said, some of that could be due to conditioning.

The major difference between the Primitivo and the Norte is road walking and ocean views. The Norte you spend much more time on hard-pan surfaces. That said, there are many wonderful ocean views. The Primitivo is much more path walking with some great landscapes and mountain views. It can be pretty muddy if you get rain.

They are both great walks. It depends upon your preference. Primitivo (11-14 days) and Norte (30-35 days) approximately. So the amount of time you have to walk could dictate choice.

All my experience is in the Spring, fall walks could be very different.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[OzAnnie]

Thanks joe
I have just over 6 .5 wks available includes travel Sep /oct it is this time but I have put my oar in for some leave in the future where I can enjoy some spring flowers.
Annie

 

[Mary Kate]

That has always been my impression of what the entire route would be like so thank you for the confirmation. The walk from Biarritz to Hendaye is not so strenuous because it follows a cornice most of the way but whenever I drive to Bilbao, I can only imagine looking at the landscape along the coast that it must be a continuous slog up and down hill at every inlet along the coast.

Having rest day at comfortable Pension Zubia in Bilbao after a hard few days from Irun.
Many climbs and many beautiful views but it would help to be fit and younger than us:-/ going to take the advice of wise pilgrims on the forum and walk the river route out of here in the morning. There were about 30 to 40 pilgs on the way with us, hope we meet up with some again. Have been too exhausted to post up to now. Oh and now I know why albergues don't open until 1600 on the Norte ...you don't get in until near then.

I hope you had a good rest day. Please keep posting with your progress and experiences. I'm doing a camino in Sep-Oct and haven't yet decided whether it will be the CF or CN. CN sounds tough but CF too crowded! Buen Camino!

 

[camino07]

Hi all,
Enjoyed our rest day in Bilbao and obtained a sello in Santiago Cathedral from a little nun. Found it easy this morning walking straight across the Gran Via Don Diego Lopez to the river and once across the Puente Euskalduna found our first arrow. Very well way marked to Portugalet. Crossed by the ferry bridge, quite an experience and then up the amazing street escalators to top of city. Then the painful on the feet bit!! 10kms on concrete walkway to Pobena. Bridge not yet repaired at Las Arenas so follow arrows left along road. Friendly Albergue is overflowing into big tent in backyard. At present just had dinner( 7pm start)at Itxaspe restaurant. Tomorrow will try to go through old tunnel and walk to Islares. No hills today so good. Don't let me put anyone off.

 

[Mary Kate]

Hi all,
Enjoyed our rest day in Bilbao and obtained a sello in Santiago Cathedral from a little nun. Found it easy this morning walking straight across the Gran Via Don Diego Lopez to the river and once across the Puente Euskalduna found our first arrow. Very well way marked to Portugalet. Crossed by the ferry bridge, quite an experience and then up the amazing street escalators to top of city. Then the painful on the feet bit!! 10kms on concrete walkway to Pobena. Bridge not yet repaired at Las Arenas so follow arrows left along road. Friendly Albergue is overflowing into big tent in backyard. At present just had dinner( 7pm start)at Itxaspe restaurant. Tomorrow will try to go through old tunnel and walk to Islares. No hills today so good. Don't let me put anyone off.

Glad you're moving on. 'Overflowing into big tent'!! Is this normal for the route and this time of year? What are the albergue managers saying?

 

[camino07]

They say it's getting busier.
Tonight in excellent new Albergue in Santona, La Bilbaina in San Antonio Plaza
Sunny but long walk with steep hills from Islares.
Heather

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

I had this in my notes:
"I agree with Sean that it's wise to bus from Bilbao to Portugalete. This is not a difficult stretch, but Sean is right that the scenery is not beautiful and it is mostly on roads." But I didn't cite the source. Has anyone taken this bus? -Thank you, Lisa

 

[peregrina2000]

I had this in my notes:
"I agree with Sean that it's wise to bus from Bilbao to Portugalete. This is not a difficult stretch, but Sean is right that the scenery is not beautiful and it is mostly on roads." But I didn't cite the source. Has anyone taken this bus? -Thank you, Lisa

Hi, Lisa,
I had thought that the metro was the best way to get to Portugalete, but this webite also shows that a bus is an option.

http://www.portugalete.com/en/content/geting-there

When I walked the Norte, but this was back in 2006 I think, the route took us from Bilbao through some pretty awful suburbs, most memorably we came upon a huge abandoned building (7 or 8 stories I would guess) occupied by squatters, and with drug deals going on around us (or so we assumed from the flashy BMWs that we saw driving in and out in the time it took us to walk through) -- I think this was right before going into Sestao. We had started in Santa Maria de Lezama and we did wind up in Portugalete but it wasn't a pretty day.

 

[ksam]

Enjoying reading all your thoughts on different sections. Feeling very relieved and good about the choice of path and section to walk with mi esposa! We're going to be starting in Aviles and on to Santiago. I've calculated roughly 16 days to do it..so some long (for him) days of 15 & 17 miles, but also some easy ones of under 10 miles. We'll be walking from Sept. 19th onward. Any thoughts on whether a fleece sleeping bag would be enough for someone on that route at that time of year? I've got a synthetic down bag that is at around 2lbs. This is cause I alternate from cold to hot flash!! and back again. My hubby tends (as most men seem to!) run warmer so we're wondering if he'd be ok with the fleece bags we used in '08 for the Portuguese route? Thoughts???

And Camino07...looking forward to more of your posts!

 

[camino07]

Yesterday walked forever but sunny to beautiful Guemes Albergue. Lucky to be given little Cabana with shower for ourselves. We got in just in time to sit down to delicious lunch to revive us. I counted 43 pilgrims at the pre dinner meeting. Ernesto is very interesting but we were all drooping. Dinner was fun. This morning woke to pouring rain, seems to be alternate days. I chose the shortest option along the senda and was at the Somos ferry at 10am, walked right through Santander following tiles in pedestrian street , so no problems there. Now staying at beautiful , rustic, friendly Albergue Santa Cruz in Bezana. Another communal meal tonight. I'm feeling stronger, shame about the feet

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

This is why I recommend walking on the east side of the river. It is not only nicer but shorter and flat.

Regarding using a means of public transport like bus or subway you may but it is against the point of doing a Camino
don´t you think? I mean, the Camino is like life itself with its good parts and bad parts. You can´t skip out the parts in your life
which you think are "ugly". And if you still insist then why not use simply bus it all the way to Santiago. The Camino isn´t a race
( even though it is for some). The Camino is a full package with its good and bad bits. You can cut them out but it´s not the same.

I do hope you don´t see this post as being rude. But using the bus or subway or train, etc........ just is so anti Camino. At least that´s
how I see it.

Ondo Ibili !

I am walking with a small child. We all do our own camino and I reject your idea of "anti-camino." The writer who recommended the bus was addressing someone infirm. Let go of judgement, que sera sera. Buen camino.

 

[camino07]

When I walked my first Camino I was determined to walk the whole way and wouldn't have considered anything else but now after seven Caminos I have no worries at all about taking Feve, bus or taxi if need be. In fact after today's nine and a half hour walk from Santillana to San Vicente we will be taking the bus at least part of the way to Pendueles. So much for reading that you can walk to San Vicente 6kms along the beach. It took 4 hours so be warned!sunny day on the Norte today too bad my feet wouldn't let me appreciate it !! Oh! Also I left my stick at a bench along the way but a Korean/Canadian Camino brother soon cut me a real one which feels good

 

[Tia Valeria]

Last year between La Franca and Pendueles the route went off the road but then the old route was cut by roadworks and a diversion took us back to the road just 2kms from where we had left it, having walked about 7kms - to gain 2!. We then had to walk the road the rest of the way into Pendueles. If you plan to miss a stretch then this is probably a good place to do it.

 

[camino07]

Decided to have a foot rest day in San Vicente in our comfy room in Pension Del Corro on Plaza Mayor. Tomorrow we intend to bus to Llanes so unfortunately won't get to Pendueles. I'm trying not to be negative but I can't seem to get any spiritual feelings from this Camino. Perhaps I will take the Primitivo although it will be harder on the feet.
Please help me Santiago!!

 

[TerryB]

. . . . . I'm trying not to be negative but I can't seem to get any spiritual feelings from this Camino. Perhaps I will take the Primitivo although it will be harder on the feet.
Please help me Santiago!!

One of the negatives about the Norte from Santander to Llanes is the fact that most of the ancient Camino is lost. That means a lot of road walking and a real lack of "Spiritual feel"! From Llanes onwards things do improve and much of the track is on the line of the ancient Camino, so hang on in there!
I was fascinated to learn that the early pilgrims paused often for prayer. You will find small roadside shrines along the ancient Camino like the photos below taken between Llanes and Villaviciosa.
If you are looking for the "Spiritual" Camino you do need to consider seriously going down to Oviedo to visit the Cámara Santa at the Cathedral. This was a "must" for the pilgrims of old . The Camino Primitivo is strenuous but not unduly hard on the feet! Take it if you can!

After I walked in 2009 I wrote the following:-

If the modern pilgrim follows
The itinerary and timing of his forbears
He will find that often in his daily march, he
Will arrive at a 'Capilla de Animas' or
A small wayside shrine at twelve noon.
No clocks or watches then,
Only the sun tells when it is midday
The hour of the Angelus.
"The angel of the Lord
"Brought tidings to Mary . . .
"And the Word was made flesh
"And dwelt among us."
The rhythm of the prayer fits well,
The rhythm of the pilgrim's feet upon the road.
But better still to pause;
Be still and remember,
That our incarnate Lord once walked
The roads of Galilee.
And still He walks with us
On this our daily pilgrimage through life.

Blessings on your walking!
Tio Tel

 

[Steeltown Pilgrim]

Decided to have a foot rest day in San Vicente in our comfy room in Pension Del Corro on Plaza Mayor. Tomorrow we intend to bus to Llanes so unfortunately won't get to Pendueles. I'm trying not to be negative but I can't seem to get any spiritual feelings from this Camino. Perhaps I will take the Primitivo although it will be harder on the feet.
Please help me Santiago!!

Stay positive. Earlier this year, whenever I was met with inclement weather, a physical or emotional challenge, I reminded myself how truly blessed I was to be walking the camino for 6 weeks by myself with not a care in the world other than perhaps finding my next cafe. Weeks into it, one day while walking the mountains on the Sanabrese, I realized that I was completely at peace with myself-a first for me. Wishing you all the best.

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

One of the negatives about the Norte from Santander to Llanes is the fact that most of the ancient Camino is lost. That means a lot of road walking and a real lack of "Spiritual feel"! From Llanes onwards things do improve and much of the track is on the line of the ancient Camino, so hang on in there!
I was fascinated to learn that the early pilgrims paused often for prayer. You will find small roadside shrines along the ancient Camino like the photos below taken between Llanes and Villaviciosa.
If you are looking for the "Spiritual" Camino you do need to consider seriously going down to Oviedo to visit the Cámara Santa at the Cathedral. This was a "must" for the pilgrims of old . The Camino Primitivo is strenuous but not unduly hard on the feet! Take it if you can!

After I walked in 2009 I wrote the following:-

If the modern pilgrim follows
The itinerary and timing of his forbears
He will find that often in his daily march, he
Will arrive at a 'Capilla de Animas' or
A small wayside shrine at twelve noon.
No clocks or watches then,
Only the sun tells when it is midday
The hour of the Angelus.
"The angel of the Lord
"Brought tidings to Mary . . .
"And the Word was made flesh
"And dwelt among us."
The rhythm of the prayer fits well,
The rhythm of the pilgrim's feet upon the road.
But better still to pause;
Be still and remember,
That our incarnate Lord once walked
The roads of Galilee.
And still He walks with us
On this our daily pilgrimage through life.

Blessings on your walking!
Tio Tel

Thank you for this Terry. A good reminder that if you hope to find our Lord in Santiago, you must take him there with you.

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

Decided to have a foot rest day in San Vicente in our comfy room in Pension Del Corro on Plaza Mayor. Tomorrow we intend to bus to Llanes so unfortunately won't get to Pendueles. I'm trying not to be negative but I can't seem to get any spiritual feelings from this Camino. Perhaps I will take the Primitivo although it will be harder on the feet.
Please help me Santiago!!

Courage! It is as it is intended to be, even if you don't realize it yet. For instance, you have encouraged and informed others through your efforts thus far. Ultreia!

 

[camino07]

Thank you all for your encouraging replies. I am hanging in there.

 

[peregrina2000]

Decided to have a foot rest day in San Vicente in our comfy room in Pension Del Corro on Plaza Mayor. Tomorrow we intend to bus to Llanes so unfortunately won't get to Pendueles. I'm trying not to be negative but I can't seem to get any spiritual feelings from this Camino. Perhaps I will take the Primitivo although it will be harder on the feet.
Please help me Santiago!!

Hi, camino07, I have to admit I had a similar reaction on the Norte many years ago. I thought that perhaps it had to do with the fact that the Camino was kind of an add-on to the well established tourist infrastructure that is the true lifeline of this part of Spain. Who needs pilgrims when you have vacationers?!

Having said that, though, I definitely found that the last part of the Norte, essentially from where it turns inland at Ribadeo (and coincidentally, where the tourism ends), gives a lot of the same sense of pilgrimage. Maybe the scenery is no longer as spectacular, but the ambiente is more familiar to the peregrino.

But don't get me started on the Primitivo, I've already got way too many posts singing its praises. And don't be so sure it will be harder on the feet -- there is a lot less pavement, which is already a bonus for the feet. True there are a couple of rough rocky descents (one to the dam and the other from the Puerto de Palo), but not so many long long stretches of asphalt. Whatever you decide, I hope you get back your camino vibes. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[bimblingalong]

Decided to have a foot rest day in San Vicente in our comfy room in Pension Del Corro on Plaza Mayor. Tomorrow we intend to bus to Llanes so unfortunately won't get to Pendueles. I'm trying not to be negative but I can't seem to get any spiritual feelings from this Camino. Perhaps I will take the Primitivo although it will be harder on the feet.
Please help me Santiago!!

Ah I am following your posts with much interest.....expectations are a funny thing, I have no idea what to expect but am looking forward to a very different experience from my Frances in 2012!!
Sending you much energy & special foot healing wishes...
Keep on keeping on..look after yourself
Tracey

 

[Tia Valeria]

@camino07 - If you decide to walk the Primitivo it isn't that hard on the feet, and until you reach Lugo (the 100km mark) there is still the option to bus a little in most places, if you feel the need. Check out the Primitivo blog link below and TerryB's blog too which might help your decision. Be kind to your feet and they will get you to Santiago
[Edit:- only one ALSA bus per day between Oviedo and Grandas de Salime (afternoon and maybe not Saturday). No public transport between Grandas and Fonsagrada, only taxi. Three buses daily between Fonsagrada and Lugo - timetable on the Consejo de Lugo website]

 

[camino07]

Thanks all for your support. The past three days have been better . Stayed in nice Hostal in Ribadesella and then to Sebrayo, small Albergue packed in like sardines and two pilgrims turned away( what do you expect coming in at 7 pm). We had bought food in Colunga and a food van came to the albergue at 5 pm, a friendly crowd there. Today walked straight uphill in 29 deg heat to Pola de Siero( with a little help from a taxi from La Vega). Beautiful Albergue here. I have just dressed my 7 blisters but I am feeling better mentally. We will decide in Oviedo whether to continue on the Norte or take Primitivo
Heather

 

[Tia Valeria]

Good to see that things are improving - we hope the feet do too.
When we were in Oviedo the lady at the ALSA desk gave us a print out with the Oviedo to Grandas bus times. Not all the stages but enough to give a good idea of when it ran and most important which was the day it didn't. The bus station and train stations are on the same street that crosses the top end of Calle Uria. The Bar Cristina has good food and early breakfasts -and there is a hostal above it with its entrance in Calle Uria. Good if you want an day in Oviedo itself.
Buen Camino

 

[camino07]

I hate
to say this but I can't see me walking the Primitivo with these feet. my friend is going by bus to Avilles to continue the Norte and I will stay an extra day in Oviedo and then bus to Leon and do what I can on the familiar Frances. I can hear you all saying no don't give up but im sick of this foot pain. I feel disappointed about the Primitivo and have been emotional today( I think it's called 'Hitting the wall!!)

 

[camino07]

Thanks for your kind words Mendiwalker, made me feel better.

 

[Steeltown Pilgrim]

I hate
to say this but I can't see me walking the Primitivo with these feet. my friend is going by bus to Avilles to continue the Norte and I will stay an extra day in Oviedo and then bus to Leon and do what I can on the familiar Frances. I can hear you all saying no don't give up but im sick of this foot pain. I feel disappointed about the Primitivo and have been emotional today( I think it's called 'Hitting the wall!!)

If you are in that much discomfort, I agree you should not continue. You are not "giving up", just listening to the message from your own body, something which no one else can hear or feel. All the best.

 

[OzAnnie]

I hate
to say this but I can't see me walking the Primitivo with these feet. my friend is going by bus to Avilles to continue the Norte and I will stay an extra day in Oviedo and then bus to Leon and do what I can on the familiar Frances. I can hear you all saying no don't give up but im sick of this foot pain. I feel disappointed about the Primitivo and have been emotional today( I think it's called 'Hitting the wall!!)

Camino07'
Feeling for you and hoping some rest and treatment for those feet, and generally 'time out' back on Frances, will help to restore your spirits.
I can see you don't want to go home on a negative note and trying from Leon, but will you continue to battle on with same footwear ?
Buen camino
Annie

 

[peregrina2000]

I hate
to say this but I can't see me walking the Primitivo with these feet. my friend is going by bus to Avilles to continue the Norte and I will stay an extra day in Oviedo and then bus to Leon and do what I can on the familiar Frances. I can hear you all saying no don't give up but im sick of this foot pain. I feel disappointed about the Primitivo and have been emotional today( I think it's called 'Hitting the wall!!)

No one wants to post a message like this, and I think I always walk with a little nagging fear hidden in the deepest recesses of my psyche that my camino could all come to a crashing end with just one bit of bad luck. And when it happens to you, you hit the wall like you say, but then you get through it. And you move on and focus on plan B. Camino07, I hope that rest and relaxation in Oviedo have given you a new outlook and that you enjoy the rest of your time in familiar territory. Being on the Frances gives you so many options to walk short distances, hop on a bus, sit and enjoy the sights -- you'll be able to do whatever's best for your feet. Treat them well, because they will be needed for your next camino, you know! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[camino07]

Hi Laurie
I have my ticket to Leon for tomorrow and more dressings and ibuprofen and feel better. Was shocked this morning when my friend decided she has had enough and will return to Australia via Santiago. I have tried to get her to come to Leon with me but she has heard so many neg stories about how busy the Frances is that she can't be persuaded. Also she admits to not being interested in the spiritual side... Ah well! It's her Camino. I did a tour of the Cathedral this morning and it was amazing!
I'll see how the shoes go but I wish I had my old Keens. Might see if there's a hiking shop in Leon. Now got to find a cheap hostel
Thanks for your caring
Heather

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Heather (didn't use your name earlier because I wasn't sure if you wanted to go incognito ). There are actually several good hiking shops in León -- I know that from personal experience because when my toes were mangled and bloody on my Camino Vadiniense, I took three or four rest days in León before starting out on the Salvador-Primitivo. I had to buy new shoes and spent a fair amount of time scouting things out. There are several high end mountain-trekking stores. K2Planet is on Dr. Fleming, near the river on the way towards the parador from the train station. There´s also one right on that main drag, Ordoño II, called Base-Yordas. The street goes from the river and feeds into the pedestrian street that goes to the cathedral. I tried on many pairs of high priced fancy shoes and in the end I got my new shoes in a footlocker type store (don´t know if you have those in Australia), it was this one, I think: InterSport They were great Salomon low hiking shoes, and my foot never made another peep for the rest of the walk.

And for cheap hostal -- try Pensión Blanca. Very good location, very clean, very cheap, includes breakfast and use of the computer in the living area as well as free use of the kitchen, refrigerator, etc.

Keep in touch, enjoy a rest in León. When I had my involuntary R&R there, I went to the museo de León, which I found very interesting. It was particularly interesting to me because there are lot of artifacts from the Vadinienses, which was the route I had just walked. But if you like old stuff and imagining life from the Stone Age forward, you might enjoy it.

Buen camino, Heather, thinking of you! Laurie

 

[camino07]

Thanks Laurie, will check out the stores. Actually have just booked into Hostal Boccalini which looks ok x

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Heather, I've stayed in Boccalino, too! Right across the street from San Isidoro, which has a gorgeous Romanesque pantheon and some beautiful artifacts. Oh, there's a lot to be happy about when you're laid up in León!

 

[ParistoCapeCod]

Dear Heather,

I've just completed my wilderness first aid training (including blister care and prevention) and the whole gist is "stay and play" or "load and go." Glad you decided to stay and play, but please consider your footwear options. Be well, Lisa

 

[camino07]

Thanks Annie, Laurie and Lisa. It's hard to stay and play when I want to walk, a lesson in patience for me

 

[jpflavin1]

I walked the Norte earlier this year and for the most part really enjoyed the walk. That said, there were some challenging days.

Whenever I encounter the thought of stopping my walks, I always think about what I would be doing if I were not here. While I have a relatively comfortable life, my daily routine versus walking any Camino is an easy choice. The unknown of what I might see (man made or natural), the new people I might meet, new foods and drinks always spur me on. If I did not have a wife and family, I would probably walk for longer periods of time and several times each year. That said, I do enjoy coming home to those comforts and familiarity. The Camino is restorative/therapeutic and I am fortunate to be able to walk one each year

I would never try to change anyone's mind but if you have the time, take a few days in Leon, heal up and maybe you will feel like taking a walk. The last third of the Norte is the easiest, imo and very different than the first two thirds. The Primitivo is challenging but a lot less road walking than the Norte. Lots of choices. I have yet to find a Camino I did not find enjoyable. They have all had their challenges and uniqueness for me.

Whatever you decision is, I am sure it will be the right one for you.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[camino07]

Thanks Joe, I am now ensconced in Leon for two days and have just bought Keens sandals to walk in and they feel good at present while having Happy Hour. !! I will stay on the Frances now. Seems to be many Germans in town I spoke to one who said it was not too busy up to Leon.
I'll see!!
Thanks for caring
Heather