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How exciting! Hope you have an awesome Vasco. Bueno camino bothWe are in Irun and will start walking tomorrow.
Yes, I just started a new string becaise the hospitalero at Beasain let us know this. It’s too late for us as we already booked a Pension, but is good news!Not sure if this will be of use to you, but I read a Gronze Facebook post this morning about the new Albergue in Zegama. It was scheduled to open 1st June but now on Gronze it says 'Open 2022: 14 May to 30 September
'https://www.gronze.com/pais-vasco/guipuzcoa/zegama/albergue-peregrinos-zegama
That really stood out for us too, how friendly people were in the first days of the Vasco, wishing us a buen camino or correcting a wrong turn.One guy doubled back on his own walk to make sure we didn’t miss a turn. Another shouted Buen Camino from his car window!
Cuajada. Want the best one?Day 4. Wow. Today was absolutely beautiful! We finally got off the bike path for the first 2/3 of the day. The path was mostly small country roads or granite paths. There was one very short difficult climb up some muddy round rocks, and about 1 km of steep “stepping stones ( that were uneven, out of place and loose). There was a steep 2km climb out of Beasain and a shorter one out of Idiazabal. But nothing that was too much.
The signs were good today and we did not need to get consult the gps until just before Zegama. At the very beginning of the town outskirts there is a fountain. Then the bike path comes out to the highway. At this point there are yellow arrows going both directions. To make matters more confusing, to the left there are yellow X’s painted on a sign. But if you go to the right you end up at a yellow arrow pointing to a closed gate. The correct path is to go to the left and stay on the bike path all the way into town.
We had pinxtos for supper last night at Restaurante Blai in Beasain — very good. Today we had cuajada ( one of my Spanish favs) and oranges for breakfast at the albergue. We also were able to brew a lovely cup of tea there ( Tom walks with a stash of English Breakfast Tea bags in his pack). We were walking by 7:00.
We stopped at a really pretty bar in Olabierria for coffee (they were open at 8:20) but they did not serve food. We stopped again at the little cafe where the path breaks out into Idiazabal.
The scenery today was spectacular, lush farms, distant mountains, sheep, cattle and goats grazing. And once again, lovely people. One guy doubled back on his own walk to make sure we didn’t miss a turn. Another shouted Buen Camino from his car window!
It was another hot day — 29C/@85F! So we were glad to get to Zegama at 2:00
Tonight we are at Pension Zegama, 55€ for a double. It seems quite nice. We plan to walk over to see the new albergue later. Meanwhile, here are some pics from today.
Wow, @kirkie! I wish we'd known about this when walking the Baztan. It's 2 km from the Santiago chapel just after cresting the Belate pass. It'd be a super lunch spot, or even a place to stay.It needs a little bit of a detour from Pamplona, or else you can hunt for it on the way to Pamplona, maybe at the end of the Baztán?
Now that I’m here and looking at the formidable wall, it’s a bit daunting. 800 meters in 8km! I keep saying slow but sure!Gorgeous pics!!
That really stood out for us too, how friendly people were in the first days of the Vasco, wishing us a buen camino or correcting a wrong turn.
And tomorrow...
I can't wait to read your impressions of it. With food and water for a picnic, and your trusty gps, you can't go wrong.
Buen camino, amiga!
Not on our route this time, but I have noted this!Cuajada. Want the best one?
It needs a little bit of a detour from Pamplona, or else you can hunt for it on the way to Pamplona, maybe at the end of the Baztán? I am not sure, but I know one of the routes passes very close by, as it is really close to Pamplona.
I am sure though that it is the best! (In my experience!)
I have been fortunate enough to have had many visits to that family establishment over the years. I attach a link to their website, a testimony to the growth from a small effort by a mother to provide for her family to the flourishing place it is at present. I have no vested interest, beyond the many enjoyable meals I have had there.
Hotel & Restaurante Venta de Ulzama (Navarra)
Tradición hostelera desde 1896. Hogar, buenos alimentos, y sobre todo atención, continúa siendo aquí la divisa primordial para cumplir con las expectativas...www.ventadeulzama.com
It looks much scarier from the bottom than in the actual doing of it. Just be a tortoise and you'll be fine! I was really spooked but found it easier than expected. It's a steady climb, no doubt about that - but not as horrifying as it appears.Now that I’m here and looking at the formidable wall, it’s a bit daunting. 800 meters in 8km! I keep saying slow but sure!
Now that I’m here and looking at the formidable wall, it’s a bit daunting. 800 meters in 8km! I keep saying slow but sure!
It looks much scarier from the bottom than in the actual doing of it. Just be a tortoise and you'll be fine! I was really spooked but found it easier than expected. It's a steady climb, no doubt about that - but not as horrifying as it appears.
And I agree with VN and WestKirsty. You will be so enthralled by the beauty of it that you will stop more often to enjoy your surroundings than to rest, but of course when you stop to enjoy your surroundigs you will be resting! So it all works perfectly.I agree with @VNwalking , it's not as bad as it seems! And the scenery is so beautiful in that valley that I was barely paying attention to the elevation gain! The numerous photo breaks helped too
Buen Camino!
Absolutely. Look down too. There were some fabulous orchids somewhere after you cross the train tracks.You will be so enthralled by the beauty of it that you will stop more often to enjoy your surroundings than to rest, but of course when you stop to enjoy your surroundigs you will be resting! So it all works perfectly.
Oh my, I just read the quick post I made this morning! That’s what happens when you are rushingDay 4. This is just a suicidal post as I. Using up data from Tom’s SIM card but I couldn’t rest it’s telling you that yesterday was glorious. The walk up to the tunnel was hard but find. Down was really difficult on the Roman road part. But it was such an astounding day, the difficulty was worth it. I’ll post pics and Joe thoughts later today when I have internet!
It's actually not that long, and you are never in darkness. Unlike the longish train tunnel (not active, a via verde) on the San Olav coming into Burgos.I am assuming from the threads which I read that there is constant light from at least one end of the tunnel as one walks through it. I would hate if my flashlight flickered out
What’s not to love about a walled town, an open bar, a comfortable albergue, and endless kindness!But Salinillas is a joy, what a beautiful town. And the kindness of the people we meet continues.
I could not decide on Santo,Domingo de la Calzada or Burgos. Tom wanted to walk through Atapuerca and book a tour to the archeological site, which we have done. We also decided we would like to walk through wine country, so…..Oh! Surprise!! I thought you two were headed to Burgos. So much kindness. Isn't it a joy?
Look forward to the pics, when they are easy to post. Buen camino to Haro!!
We are at the parochial albergue at San Juan Bautista. I walked past Albergue Sonrisa this afternoon and it was open and completo…..Which albergue in Granon? A fellow hospitalero voluntario posted yesterday that Casa de Sonrisa there is for sale or rent. Hope Tom is on the mend soon!
And well you might smile so widely, even if Tom is suffering with his knee! Thanks for your postings. I will see if a wee prayer helps...maybe even a wee bit of vaseline and some hand massage around the knee, nothing like a physio would do, just rubbing around it with the moisture of the vaseline, or any moisturiser. Not medical advice, just compassionate thinking out loud!Day 11. We finished the Vasco today. Last night’s stay at the hotel in Zarraton was really great. The owner left us a huge spread for breakfast — fruit, cereal, meat, cakes, toast, coffee and tea!! The end of the route was a beautiful bucolic walk through vineyards and fields to Santo Domingo. I’m attaching a picture of us at the last yellow arrow on the Vasco! It’s a marvelous route. For my money the three hardest parts are the entire first day, the walk down from San Adrian on the Roman Road, and the descent from the pass between Subjana de Alava and Villuenueva de Oca. Those Basques don’t believe in traversing a slope with switchbacks, they just go straight up, and, hard for me, straight down!
We are staying in Granon tonight. The bad news is that two days ago, Tom twisted his knee. It was not great, but we hoped that with a couple of relatively short and easy days it would improve. Today however, as he turned to say hi to passing pilgrims, he tweaked it again pretty badly. We are going to take the bus to Burgos tomorrow and stay there until Saturday morning. We will go to a clinic tomorrow and see what they say. Hopefully it’s nothing major and some rest will be good. We hope to start walking again on Saturday or whenever it seems feasible.
I am not planning on posting live from the Frances, but will post live again once we are on the Invierno. I have a separate blog and will continue posting daily on it. Ifyou are interested, it is called Footloose and Tuition Free and is at www.lizb82657.wordpress.com.
L
I agree, up to the tunnel was hard, but down was awful. That Roman road was just so difficult to walk on. It was pouring down rain, my husband was behind me when I heard a "thud" and turned to find him face down in the mud. He was ok, but when we saw Agurain in the distance he told me that if we didn't have a place to stay he was on the next train. We arrived at Restaurante El Gordo with a room reservation. We were brought to our room and I asked about a late lunch. I was told that we had five minutes. My husband told me he was going to take a shower- no- splash water on your face and we are going downstairs to eat. Despite being exhausted and needing a shower and looking awful in the dining room, I do remember that I had a wonderful chicken and mushroom dish, and slept very well.Day 4. This is just a suicidal post as I. Using up data from Tom’s SIM card but I couldn’t rest it’s telling you that yesterday was glorious. The walk up to the tunnel was hard but find. Down was really difficult on the Roman road part. But it was such an astounding day, the difficulty was worth it. I’ll post pics and Joe thoughts later today when I have internet!
Fror those coming behind, please be reassured going down that way is not necessary! At the intersection at the top of the hill, turn right. Go along the ridge until you get to the powerline, and turn left. There's an arrow there and more after that point. You miss Villuenueva de Oca but it's much safer. Somewhere here (the planning thread?) I posted a map, but don't have the time to find it at the moment.the descent from the pass between Subjana de Alava and Villuenueva de Oca.
@VNwalking , HOW DID I MISS your advice on that descent!. Anyone coming behind should listen and get VN’s map. The descent is beyond difficult!
Later today whe I have time, I'll find it and post here too. Threads get buried and it's all too easy to miss things! So glad you guys made it down in one piece.@VNwalking , HOW DID I MISS your advice on that descent!. Anyone coming behind should listen and get VN’s map. The descent is beyond difficult!
Here is the post and map I am sorry I did not tell you about beforehand, @ebrandt !Later today whe I have time, I'll find it and post here too. Threads get buried and it's all too easy to miss things! So glad you guys made it down in one piece.
And I took the new way, which caused me to go back and forth a couple of times at the intersection, making sure I was going the right way. It was easy...and very worth it. You go along the ridge to the right of the junction, then down on a track under the powerlines, so it's much better underfoot, if not so scenic.
Edit: here is an OSMand map for people like @ebrandt who are following in your footsteps. The old "official" camino (what Sabine did) is the light blue line, what Pierre and I did is the purple one. The junction is at the top of the hill and is unmissable. A bit past the junction on the old official route (going straight), there was a yellow X, but nothing that I could see on the other way until the powerline. But it was easy to follow the map.
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I don't remember these posts from our walk in 2019. In fact, shortly after going straight there was a yellow X. So I bscktracked to the intersection and went right instead, until turning down towards PdS at a yellow arrow painted on a pylon.The bike Camino and the walking Camino diverge. The bike Camino is marked by white posts while the walking Camino is marked by yellow posts. At the top you get to a white post and a yellow arrow on a tree.
Could be. It was very confusing…..I do wonder if there is a 'flecha war:' because the safer way bypasses Villuenueva de Oca completely, perhaps people in the village have an agenda to keep the rocky route marked as 'the' camino route.
I used my offline OSmand map with an overlay of a wikiloc track. It was a Godsend. There are lots of paths up there. Heads-up, Vasco pilgrims!Could be. It was very confusing…..
I don't remember these posts from our walk in 2019. In fact, shortly after going straight there was a yellow X. So I bscktracked to the intersection and went right instead, until turning down towards PdS at a yellow arrow painted on a pylon.
I do wonder if there is a 'flecha war:' because the safer way bypasses Villuenueva de Oca completely, perhaps people in the village have an agenda to keep the rocky route marked as 'the' camino route.
Hmm. Well, then perhaps not.The mind boggles seeing there is no infrastructure to speak of?!
Hmm. Well, then perhaps not.
I never saw it, so I was just guessing, based on no information at all.
The route I walked was about the same distance, maybe even a tad shorter. Just follow purple line on the posted map - there's a little distance on the path along the ridge, then onto a two-track gravel road that any bikers can easily maneuver on.It’s worth a couple extra kms to take the bike route.
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