STAGE TEN: VILLALÓN DE CAMPOS – SAHAGÚN. 4 of July. 39 KMS
I decided to reach Sahagún the same day. This was my last stage on the Camino de Madrid so the thought of reaching my goal gave me some extra energy! Although I didn’t know by then that an annoying misfortune would slow me down and that I would arrive in Sahagún much later than I had expected.
This is the meseta so I haven’t got much to say about the scenery. Flat, sun, wide sky, not a drop of rain since Madrid. The arrows were now scarce or fading away, far from the shining waymarks that had guided me at the beginning ten days ago.
First I arrived in Fontihoyuelo, the smallest hamlet on the camino. I was greeted by the only loose dog behaving aggressively (or pretending to do so) that I saw during my walk. First he was barking loudly, then sneaking up from behind and snarling at my calves as if he would attack me any moment. You know the game. And I did what I always do when this happens: I ignored him and kept on going. Some guys were working at a house and called the dog back so he finally left me. In fact, I passed at least three houses in this hamlet where people were doing restoration work: painting, hammering, cleaning… If this is the smallest place of the Camino de Madrid, it’s nice to see that people are willing to put some effort into making the houses look nice. But this place is so tiny that it must be really lonely here (my definition of lonely means: no bar). I imagined those new houses to be summer houses for inhabitants from larger towns nearby, a place to get away from a stressful life perhaps.
Then something unexpected happened. The next village, Santervás de Campos, turned up too soon. It’s usually the other way around… Max Long says it’s 12 kms between Fontihoyelo and Santervás de Campos but I was there in no time. The guidebook says 9 kms but even this is strange. I think I read on another pilgrim’s blog that he also found this to be odd. Well, at least a pleasant surprise in terms of distance.
Anyway, Santervás de Campos boasts a bar with a store where pilgrims can buy everything they need – good idea! I browsed through their supply. The bar is located uphill, close to the church if I remember it correctly, and is easy to find. It’s also an albergue, run by the bar’s owner, which has 24 beds according to Max Long. No need to sleep on the floor if you choose to stay.
Leaving Santervás there are two options. The one to the left runs through Melgar de Arriba and is longer. I took the shorter way directly to Arenillas de Valderaduey, to save 2 kms, sorry… My excuse is that both of my sources say the shorter option is the official one.
There’s a most refreshing fountain in Arenillas de Valderaduey just when you leave the village. After this point my day became really difficult: only 13 kms from my goal! I commenced what I thought would be my glorious conquering of Sahagún, walking on a path that steadily became more and more overgrown. Max Long stated: ”From Arenillas, a pleasant path parallel to the river takes us to Grajal de Campos”. Yeah right! The branches snapped at my legs (I wear shorts) and soon every step required an effort. Midday heat was approaching and I began to feel sick. I had just been cured from the heat stroke I suffered a few days back and I had no wish to repeat the experience. I could see the tower of the church in Grajal de Campos in front of me but this didn’t reassure me. I didn’t know if this path was the Camino or if it was a dead end, meaning that it would eventually merge with the bushes by the canal on my left. (The canal itself was nowhere to be seen due to the thick vegetation). If I was wrong I would have to go back from where I came, in the same terrain, and surely risk to get sick again because of the exhaustion.
Max Long had no information at this point and the guidebook only confused me. I decided to abandon the jungle, turn slightly to my right and walk straight across the fields to take the shortest way possible to the tower in front of me. The railway barred my route but it looked like there could be a tunnel. The fields were just as bad as the overgrown path, with dry grass scratching my legs and entering my shoes. At least now I know the meaning of a short cut. It’s because it cuts your legs!
There was in fact a tunnel. The town emerged at the other side of the railway. But as I entered I saw no people whatsoever. I lost sight of the church tower amongst the buildings. I decided to follow any street that led upwards because normally that’s where you’d put a church. I was afraid I wasn’t even in the right town since I had given up on my maps and the guidebook. Finally I entered a square with a sign that said ”Grajal de Campos” – the only way to convince me that my misfortune was over. A bar was open where I could rest my battered legs. I fished out my guidebook again and tried to see where I went wrong after the last village, but I couldn’t understand it.
This has been debated on the Forum where I post these messages so I’ll try to summarize. The path that I walked on does lead to Grajal de Campos but for me it was impossible to push through. On the other hand, pilgrims from earlier years and walking in other seasons have had no problems with it. But my guidebook seems to show another way further to the right, on another road. Although I didn’t see any arrow telling me to turn in this direction after Arenillas de Valderaduey so I don’t know if there are waymarks on this option. Finally, another pilgrim claims that it is possible to walk to the left of the canal and that arrows even pointed this way earlier. I find it difficult to give advice here. All three options should lead to Grajal de Campos but I only have experience of a bad one…
Six more kilometers and I reached Sahagún. I thought of all the hardships and the beauty of this Camino as I passed the sanctuary at the outskirts and entered among the first houses. I thought I would recognize this town since I had been here before on the Camino Francés. I have nice memories from it and from the people I met there. But that was 7 years ago and I realized, somewhat astonished, that I didn’t recall any street or building. The fact that I entered from another angle than pilgrims coming from the Camino Francés didn’t help either.
I knew there would be a lot of albergues but before I knew it I stumbled upon the main square in Sahagún where the bars line up and… yes, the first one I entered had rooms. To celebrate, a room of my own… I would make acquaintance with the hordes of pilgrims the following days anyway. My plan was to get to León in two days, then to turn northwards on the Camino del Salvador.
I desperately needed to put my clothes in a washing machine. I know washing isn’t part of the service when you stay at a bar, but I sometimes ask if they can at least let me use their machine for a few euros. Yes, a bit embarrassing, but I loathe washing my clothes by hand. I usually fall asleep in the sink because it bores me to death. Well, the guy said that the laundry room was occupied and that they had a lot of things to take care of but that he would bring my clothes to his home and wash them there. He wouldn’t accept any money. Humble pilgrim-smile! Although later on I discovered that my only towel had gone missing, probably while my clothes made their way to and from the laundry. But I didn’t mind. This was extremely kind of him.
I was in my bed just under the roof-top when a storm broke out. Pouring rain and lightning! I snuggled up under the covers and slept like a baby in the darkness.
What happened next? I walked two days from Sahagún to León, then Camino del Salvador, then Camino Primitivo to Santiago de Compostela. But that’s another story…
So, using the ISCR (International Standard of Camino Rating), here is my verdict on the Camino de Madrid:
Angry Dog encountered: 1
Angry Hospitalera encountered: 1
Mosquito encountered: 1.000.000.000. Between Cercedilla and Segovia.
Drops of rain: 0
Degree of solitude: above average. This Camino finishes between La Vía de la Plata (which is less lonely) and El Camino del Sureste and Levante (which are lonelier).
Temperature: 30-40 degrees Celsius in summer.
Waymarks rating: excellent at first, declining towards Sahagún.
Washing by hand vs Washing machine: about 50 % - 50% (very important criterion)
Heat strokes suffered: 1
Nemesis encountered: 3. Heat stroke. Mosquito Attack. Pine Forest.
Camino Strength acquired: Enhanced ability to endure hedgehog socks due to Pine Forest.
Final rating: I give this Camino 4 umbrellas out of 5!