LIVE from the Camino My Camino Primitivo

[David Tallan]

Day 30: Oviedo to Grado (Primitivo Day 1)
27.4 km

This is a continuation from my Camino de Madrid and my Camino de San Salvador, which I posted in those sub-forums.

(note from mods: edited to add links to the earlier threads).

Last night, I ended up getting something to eat on "Cider Street" in Oviedo, so of course I had cider with my meal. Unfortunately, the "menu" options weren't available until 10 pm, but I could order platos, so I tried to make my own with a first and second plate. The waitress corrected me that I was ordering way too much and should just limit myself to the fabada that I had picked as a first course. She was right. With that and a dessert I was overstuffed.

I woke up at 5 this morning and realized I wasn't getting back to sleep again, so I was out of the albergue at 6. It took a while to get out of Oviedo. At first I was relying on my GPS tracks but after a while the yellow arrows and "Camino Primitivo" signs became frequent and I started following them instead. I noticed that the route they were taking me on didn't match my IGN GPS tracks, nor the Wise Pilgrim tracks. It may not have been quite as efficient but following the arrows meant I didn't have to keep checking my phone, so I took the yellow arrow route out of Oviedo and it seemed to work.

I didn't take as many photos or videos today because it didn't seem all that different. Eventually walking through one forest looks much like walking through another. Walking next to one set of green mountains looks much like walking next to another. Like yesterday, there was walking through forests and farms, on highways and byways and little paths, next to fields and mountains and rivers. One difference I'm noticing is the little chapels by the side of the road with a stamp left for pilgrims to stamp their credenciales.

Today wasn't too hard. There was one climb that was tougher than the rest but certainly not as tough as some of the climbs on the San Salvador. I think the real tough days are still to come.

There were a couple if pilgrims I saw a few times while walking. One of them was Ivan from Lugo. He is walking from the easternmost point in Spain, in Catalunya to the westernmost point in Galicia, stitching together a number of lesser known caminos to do so. He's been camping a lot on caminos that don't have a lot if infrastructure. He is pulling long days for the next bit, and so is walking further than me today (and tomorrow). At one point I approached a house with a lady in the yard and was calling out my usual "Buenos dias!" greeting when I noticed Ivan in the yard. He had a bunch of oranges. He had told her what nice oranges she had and she told him to take what he wanted. He offered me some and, after thanking the woman, we were on our way happily munching oranges. They were sweet and very refreshing. Afterwards I had sticky hands until I arrived at the first village with a water fountain (Paladín). I was very disappointed that La Fuente, which I passed on the way to Paladín, did not in fact have a fountain, belying its name.

Eventually, I got to Grado and spent a while walking into town to find the albergue, which I did shortly after noon. But I was puzzled. There were signs on the way to the albergue and on the door saying that the albergue was full/completo. But the albergue doesn't open until 2 and doesn't take reservations. How could it be full at noon? I was chatting with Ivan, who was sitting in the park in front of the albergue cooking and eating before heading on, when the hospitaleros came. They had neglected to take down the previous day's signs. They said I could leave my backpack inside marking my place as first in line so long as I was back before two. So I dropped off my backpack and poles and went to explore the market for a bit.

I picked up a couple of apples and a chorizo bun from the market, and a yogurt drink from the supermarket which I downed right away. And headed back to the albergue, where already the first other pilgrims had begun to arrive. By the time they opened up at 2, there were 4-6 of us. Pilgrims continued to arrive and they were full (16 pilgrims) at around 4:30.

I decided not to do my laundry today, holding out hope for ending up at an albergue with a washing machine tomorrow at Salas, where there appear to be several albergues with one. So it wasn't too long before, showered and shaved, I was headed over to the seniors social centre for the €9 comida recommended by the hospitaleros. It was certainly not bad for the price, but nothing to get too excited about.

When I got back I had a nice chat with the hospitalera (they are a married couple from Norway). They had also done the Camino Madrid, do we had a nice chat comparing notes and talking about the various Caminos we have done.

Then I had a little nap and wrote about my day which brings us to the present. I expect a restful time, a chorizo bun and apple for cena, and an early bedtime so I can get up and on my way early tomorrow, although we have been promised a substantial breakfast with cinnamon buns (paid for by yesterday's pilgrims)!

Photos below:
- early morning Oviedo (where apparently they have electric scooters for rent)
- Parque Camino de Santiago, on the way out of Oviedo, with its interestingly sculpted bushes
- views on the Camino Primitivo Day One: I
- views on the Camino Primitivo Day One: II
- Ermita del Carmen
- Camino marker
- entrance to Peñaflor

 

[Arctic_Alex]

I remember most of your views on the photos from May
And I remember eating something late in Oviedo at a cider place ... and no one warned me about portion size. I ordered what I thought to be a small dish or even a side dish, but it was so much I thought this must be for a whole family!

 

[jungleboy]

Buen (continued) camino!

I didn't take as many photos or videos today because it didn't seem all that different.

I’ll be interested to see how your view on this develops over the course of the Primitivo. I enjoyed that camino but (weather aside) my one complaint was that it seemed quite same-y to me and I thought it had a lot less variety than, say, the Madrid (which is about equal in length).

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Thanks for the update, I hit the trail in 10 days (and counting). I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas! Following you is a bit like the first peek at the present’s under the tree…
Are you walking through, or thinking of taking the Verde?

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks for the update, I hit the trail in 10 days (and counting). I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas! Following you is a bit like the first peek at the present’s under the tree…
Are you walking through, or thinking of taking the Verde?

Not this time. This time I will take the regular Primitivo (hopefully with Hospitales) and leave variants like the Verde for future Caminos.

 

[dbier]

Buen (continued) camino!


I’ll be interested to see how your view on this develops over the course of the Primitivo. I enjoyed that camino but (weather aside) my one complaint was that it seemed quite same-y to me and I thought it had a lot less variety than, say, the Madrid (which is about equal in length).

I'm confused...the Madrid is about 2 weeks long?

 

[Pathfinder075]

I'm confused...the Madrid is about 2 weeks long?

When i did my route plan for it as a possible for this year, I had it down at about 10-11 days tops. That was based on ignoring the 20km avg day and pushing out certain stages to 30-35km.

 

[David Tallan]

I'm confused...the Madrid is about 2 weeks long?

It could easily be done in 14 or 15 days. I took 20 but (a) starting from my front door, south of where most people start, I had an extra day just walking within Madrid and (b) I took a lot of detours that added extra days: La Granja, Valladolid, Urueña....

 

[jungleboy]

I'm confused...the Madrid is about 2 weeks long?

The Madrid is 323km per Gronze and the Primitivo is about 320km.

 

[David Tallan]

The Madrid is 323km per Gronze and the Primitivo is about 320km.

And the Madrid is not nearly as hilly.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 31: Grado to Salas (Primitivo Day 2)
26.3 km including a trip back into town for lunch

Today was a pretty easy day. Not to say there weren't any ups and downs. But none of them were super challenging. It also helped that the biggest climbs were in the first half of the day and the subsequent descents were, for the most part, gradual.

I got up shortly after 5 and got my stuff and went down for breakfast which, as promised, eventually included fresh-baked cinnamon buns. I was on the road at about 6. It was still dark and cool, but I knew that wouldn't last. (Although, while it gets light at the usual time, in the valleys the sunrise is postponed.)

As with the previous days, there was a lot of walking among green mountains when you had the views and forests when you didn't. Beside rivers and occasionally beside roads. Through little hamlets among picturesque houses and horreos. The occasional ruined house at the edge of the village or in the forest.

Many of the hamlets I walked through were to small to have a bar or cafe, but around halfway through the walk, at Cornellana there was a bakery and a bar. So I got a sweet from the bakery and a large coffee and small bocadillo from the bar (and a refill of my water bottle) before setting out again.

For the second half of my walk, I walked a fair ways with a Dutch pilgrim who found herself walking the Primitivo when her original plans for a family vacation in Santander were disrupted. After walking and talking for a while, she stopped for coffee at a vending machine and I continued on to Salas.

The place I had chosen to stay was a slightly upscale albergue attached to a hotel/restaurant at the far end of Salas and I arrived shortly before noon. Unfortunately, the reception didn't open until one. So I sat and waited and was offered cold water to refresh myself during the wait. There was room for me, and I had read positive comments about the food here so I also ordered supper (a bit expensive for a menu del dia, but I've been frugal recently) and breakfast. Then I showered and did laundry and headed back into town where I was going to have lunch at another place that had been recommended (Casa Pachón). OMG. You get a mountain of food in four courses for your €11 at Casa Pachón. I'm beginning to regret ordering supper. I am going to set off well nourished for tomorrow's walk.

In the meantime, I am sitting around the albergue. It looks threatening but hasn't started to rain yet. I hope my clothes dry before it does.

Photos below:
- early morning sky
- mist in the valleys
- Camino Primitivo landscape
- Caution: Dangerous Children
- shack in the woods
- pilgrim rest stop
- buen camino
- Salas gate

 

[dbier]

The Madrid is 323km per Gronze and the Primitivo is about 320km.

I appreciate it. I think I weeded it out for my second Camino because I want to walk In Vicarie Pro for my mother, and I need to end up in Santiago for that.

 

[El Cascayal]

As with the previous days, there was a lot of walking among green mountains when you had the views and forests when you didn't. Beside rivers and occasionally beside roads. Through little hamlets among picturesque houses and horreos. The occasional ruined house at the edge of the village or in the forest.

“Asturias patria querida, Asturias de mis amores…” David, Thanks for sharing your journey! Aymarah

 

[CanadianBarb]

Day 30: Oviedo to Grado (Primitivo Day 1)
27.4 km

This is a continuation from my Camino de Madrid and my Camino de San Salvador, which I posted in those sub-forums.

(note from mods: edited to add links to the earlier threads).

Last night, I ended up getting something to eat on "Cider Street" in Oviedo, so of course I had cider with my meal. Unfortunately, the "menu" options weren't available until 10 pm, but I could order platos, so I tried to make my own with a first and second plate. The waitress corrected me that I was ordering way too much and should just limit myself to the fabada that I had picked as a first course. She was right. With that and a dessert I was overstuffed.

I woke up at 5 this morning and realized I wasn't getting back to sleep again, so I was out of the albergue at 6. It took a while to get out of Oviedo. At first I was relying on my GPS tracks but after a while the yellow arrows and "Camino Primitivo" signs became frequent and I started following them instead. I noticed that the route they were taking me on didn't match my IGN GPS tracks, nor the Wise Pilgrim tracks. It may not have been quite as efficient but following the arrows meant I didn't have to keep checking my phone, so I took the yellow arrow route out of Oviedo and it seemed to work.

I didn't take as many photos or videos today because it didn't seem all that different. Eventually walking through one forest looks much like walking through another. Walking next to one set of green mountains looks much like walking next to another. Like yesterday, there was walking through forests and farms, on highways and byways and little paths, next to fields and mountains and rivers. One difference I'm noticing is the little chapels by the side of the road with a stamp left for pilgrims to stamp their credenciales.

Today wasn't too hard. There was one climb that was tougher than the rest but certainly not as tough as some of the climbs on the San Salvador. I think the real tough days are still to come.

There were a couple if pilgrims I saw a few times while walking. One of them was Ivan from Lugo. He is walking from the easternmost point in Spain, in Catalunya to the westernmost point in Galicia, stitching together a number of lesser known caminos to do so. He's been camping a lot on caminos that don't have a lot if infrastructure. He is pulling long days for the next bit, and so is walking further than me today (and tomorrow). At one point I approached a house with a lady in the yard and was calling out my usual "Buenos dias!" greeting when I noticed Ivan in the yard. He had a bunch of oranges. He had told her what nice oranges she had and she told him to take what he wanted. He offered me some and, after thanking the woman, we were on our way happily munching oranges. They were sweet and very refreshing. Afterwards I had sticky hands until I arrived at the first village with a water fountain (Paladín). I was very disappointed that La Fuente, which I passed on the way to Paladín, did not in fact have a fountain, belying its name.

Eventually, I got to Grado and spent a while walking into town to find the albergue, which I did shortly after noon. But I was puzzled. There were signs on the way to the albergue and on the door saying that the albergue was full/completo. But the albergue doesn't open until 2 and doesn't take reservations. How could it be full at noon? I was chatting with Ivan, who was sitting in the park in front of the albergue cooking and eating before heading on, when the hospitaleros came. They had neglected to take down the previous day's signs. They said I could leave my backpack inside marking my place as first in line so long as I was back before two. So I dropped off my backpack and poles and went to explore the market for a bit.

I picked up a couple of apples and a chorizo bun from the market, and a yogurt drink from the supermarket which I downed right away. And headed back to the albergue, where already the first other pilgrims had begun to arrive. By the time they opened up at 2, there were 4-6 of us. Pilgrims continued to arrive and they were full (16 pilgrims) at around 4:30.

I decided not to do my laundry today, holding out hope for ending up at an albergue with a washing machine tomorrow at Salas, where there appear to be several albergues with one. So it wasn't too long before, showered and shaved, I was headed over to the seniors social centre for the €9 comida recommended by the hospitaleros. It was certainly not bad for the price, but nothing to get too excited about.

When I got back I had a nice chat with the hospitalera (they are a married couple from Norway). They had also done the Camino Madrid, do we had a nice chat comparing notes and talking about the various Caminos we have done.

Then I had a little nap and wrote about my day which brings us to the present. I expect a restful time, a chorizo bun and apple for cena, and an early bedtime so I can get up and on my way early tomorrow, although we have been promised a substantial breakfast with cinnamon buns (paid for by yesterday's pilgrims)!

Photos below:
- early morning Oviedo (where apparently they have electric scooters for rent)
- Parque Camino de Santiago, on the way out of Oviedo, with its interestingly sculpted bushes
- views on the Camino Primitivo Day One: I
- views on the Camino Primitivo Day One: II
- Ermita del Carmen
- Camino marker
- entrance to Peñaflor
View attachment 151475 View attachment 151476 View attachment 151477 View attachment 151478 View attachment 151479 View attachment 151480 View attachment 151481

Thank you for this. I am getting excited as my husband and I will be walking Oviedo starting the end of September. Last year I walked del Norte and it was a hard decision to continue on the Norte so this year I feel like I am completing something! Buen Camino and keep up the updates please and thanks!

 

[WalkingInGers]

The Primitivo and Oviedo: mid October for me.

 

[trecile]

didn't take as many photos or videos today because it didn't seem all that different. Eventually walking through one forest looks much like walking through another. Walking next to one set of green mountains looks much like walking next to another

enjoyed that camino but (weather aside) my one complaint was that it seemed quite same-y to me

I finished my Norte/Primitivo about 10 days ago, and did find the landscapes to be pretty homogeneous. Exceptions were the Hospitales route and walking over the dam before Grandas de Salime. I also thought that the walk into Tineo was one of the nicest approaches to a town on any Camino.

I can highly recommend staying at Alojamento Los Hospitales in Colinas de Arriba before the Hospitales route. While it is technically on the route via Pola de Allande there is a connector to the Hospitales route directly across the street from the albergue. The family that runs the albergue is very kind and helpful.

 

[peregrina2000]

I also thought that the walk into Tineo was one of the nicest approaches to a town on any Camino.

I’m pretty sure I remember that you had a foggy day with no views on the day going out of Tineo. For me, that stretch after the short ascent is also one of the most beautiful.

 

[David Tallan]

I can highly recommend staying at Alojamento Los Hospitales in Colinas de Arriba before the Hospitales route. While it is technically on the route via Pola de Allande there is a connector to the Hospitales route directly across the street from the albergue. The family that runs the albergue is very kind and helpful.

I read this about half an hour after sending a WhatsApp to Javi at Samblismo asking if I could stay there, since my notes indicate his albergue was recommended by @LTfit and others concurred.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

David, how busy are you finding the route? Assume you are booking just one night ahead judging from the comment above.

 

[David Tallan]

Not too busy. Haven't been booking ahead so far. The Municipal albergue in Grado filled up (16 places) at 4:30. I booked ahead for Samblismo so he would know how many pilgrims to prepare food for (communal meal).

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Good to know, much appreciated

 

[trecile]

I read this about half an hour after sending a WhatsApp to Javi at Samblismo asking if I could stay there, since my notes indicate his albergue was recommended by @LTfit and others concurred.

Also a good choice. Two of the group that I was walking with on the Primitivo stayed there and enjoyed it.

 

[CanadianBarb]

I finished my Norte/Primitivo about 10 days ago, and did find the landscapes to be pretty homogeneous. Exceptions were the Hospitales route and walking over the dam before Grandas de Salime. I also thought that the walk into Tineo was one of the nicest approaches to a town on any Camino.

I can highly recommend staying at Alojamento Los Hospitales in Colinas de Arriba before the Hospitales route. While it is technically on the route via Pola de Allande there is a connector to the Hospitales route directly across the street from the albergue. The family that runs the albergue is very kind and helpful.

How is the walk joining the Hospitales route? How does it compare with going straight after Borres?

 

[trecile]

How is the walk joining the Hospitales route? How does it compare with going straight after Borres?

The connection to the Hospitales route was a steep 1.2 km trail. Since this was my first time on the Primitivo I don't know how it compares.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 32: Salas to Tineo (Primitivo Day 3)
25 km including an overshoot and back to the albergue and shopping

Today was also not too difficult a day. I am cautiously optimistic for the Primitivo. The Gronze website rates each day for difficulty. Yesterday got two stars. Today got three stars. The day after tomorrow (Hospitales) gets four stars. But that's the only day that scored that high. So if I can finish a three star day feeling there is still a lot of gas in the tank, I'm cautiously optimistic.

The day started with a long but almost entirely gradual climb, which I was able to take in stride. Not too far into it there was a sign for a 250m detour to see a waterfall. I thought, "why not?". Then I noticed it was a fairly steep path down to the river which, of course, meant an equally steep climb back to the Camino. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the climb back up wasn't as hard as I had been dreading. I guess I am getting stronger. There was also one steep set of switchbacks on the regular Camino as the path climbed out of the ravine towards a road. But mainly, throughout the day, although there was a fair amount of up and down, it wasn't too steep.

In many ways today was similar to previous days on the Camino. There was a little road walking and a lot of walking on trails and country dirt roads obviously used mainly by tractors. There were some nice views of the green mountains and countryside, lots of walking in woods and between trees that separated fields. Lots of passing farms with farm animals that my daughter will like (including a couple of small herds being driven along the Camino to pass us by that I got on video for her). A couple of chapels with stamps for the credentials (I finished filling my first and started on my second).

Later on on the walk I caught up with a couple of pilgrims I've been seeing the past few days. They were in the albergue with me at Grado and I saw them again in Salas but they were continuing on another 7 km. I walked with them into Tineo but they are going on another 16 km or so to to Borres so they will be a day ahead of me from now on. We walked together into Tineo and time goes by faster when you are walking with other pilgrims. In fact, we were in Tineo before I knew it. I walked with them past the municipal albergue thinking I was in a village before Tineo and when I looked up the location of the albergue I realized I had overshot and had to walk back. So I said goodbye and did so.

When I got to the albergue the hospitaleros were still cleaning it and suggested I head to a nearby cafe for an hour or so, which I did, having a cafe con leche and a generous pincho of tortilla.

When I got back, there were two young Spanish pilgrims I knew also waiting outside talking to the hospitalero. We chatted a bit outside while waiting for the floors to finish drying, about where we would stay tomorrow night. I mentioned that I had WhatsApped a reservation for the albergue at Samblismo, although I hadn't received a reply yet. They called to make a reservation for the three of us (me not having heard back from the WhatsApp I had sent last night) and were told to WhatsApp the reservation and he would get back to them. So I updated my WhatsApp reservation from one person to three, if available. This time I did get a reply, but not before another, older Spanish pilgrim (whom I had also seen every day) showed up and expressed interest in staying at Samblismo. When Javier confirmed the three of us, I accepted for the three of us and asked about a fourth, but they were full.

Meanwhile, it was time for lunch. Others seemed to be microwaving lunches and I needed to go to the supermarket anyways (since I had left my shampoo bar in Salas and needed to replace it, as well as buy some supplies for tomorrow) so I headed down to the supermarket for lunch. I got myself a two course late lunch of paella and meat and potatoes. I also got a carton of gazpacho (which I will probably drink tonight and tomorrow morning) and a large empanada that can be for tomorrow.

Other pilgrims have arrived and been set up here and at the Hospitales albergue (a little bit further on than Samblismo, with a bit further to walk to connect with the Hospitales route) which was also recommended.

And now I am writing this and enjoying the mountain view from the albergue.

Photos below:
- waterfall detour
- long shadow (I think there is a regulation that requires this photo to be taken at least once each Camino)
- wind farm (hadn't seen these in a while)
- Capilla del Cristo de los Afligidos
- between the walls of earth
- pilgrim monument
- view from the albergue

 

[El Cascayal]

I loved the walk into Tineo on the high road and the walk out of Tineo the next day. Por Hospitales, I found to not be so bad, and for you after walking El Salvador should be “muy llevadero”. The hard part for me was the descent on the wet jagged granite rocks. It rained all day. Walked it in a group of 4 and it remains one of by best ever days on any Camino. La Etapa Reina del Primitivo lives up to its fame. Buen Camino !

 

[peregrina2000]

Just wondering whether you saw any signs of life near Bodenaya. I have read that there are now new hospitaleros/owners — I can’t remember their names, but since I have stayed there with Alex, and also with David and Celia, I think it’s time to head back to the Primitivo!

I also got a carton of gazpacho

YUM YUM YUM.

Are you staying in the municipal albergue in Tineo? I remember its location as being a bit isolated from town. The night I stayed there, someone came and took many of the shoes that were sitting outside drying. It was not a happy morning.

 

[David Tallan]

I don't remember either way in Bodenaya. Since I wasn't staying there, I wasn't paying too much attention to the alberhue when passing through. I did see a post from that albergue recently on a Camino Primitivo Facebook group, though.

I am staying at the municipal here in Tineo. It does seem a bit far from town, which is (a) why I overshot and (b) a bit of a discouragement from checking out town. It was fiesta in Tineo last night and we weren't so far away as to prevent us from hearing the music until 6 am.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Samblismo - how was the communal meal?
Glad they got their fiesta out of the way ! I sleep poorly enough as it is. Enjoyable, but not for me ( unless I've got a rest day the next day) Yeah, I know, GOM syndrome....
The new owners at Bodenaya are Alison and Alberto I believe. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong!

 

[El Cascayal]

GOM syndrome....

???

 

[trecile]

???

Grumpy Old Man

 

[El Cascayal]

This is a photo of David & Celia walking/leaving Bodenaya. Credit: Alex Camino.
I found it very moving.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 33: Tineo to Samblismo (Primitivo Day 4)
18.9 km

A relatively easy day, but a wet one. I think this was my first day walking in the rain since relatively early in the Camino de Madrid.

There was a fiesta in town last night and we could hear the music from the stage far away in our dorm until 6 in the morning, although it wasn't loud enough to keep me awake until I woke up at 5. I stayed in bed until 6 and had some breakfast, finishing off my gazpacho, until I got a later start at about 7:30. It was a shorter walk today and I had booked a place to stay so there was no hurry. It was misty when I left and shortly after, it began to rain.

The rain was light, though, and quickly passed but just as quickly came back. The third time it came back, it was somewhat stronger and more sustained. I found a sheltered bench to sit on and decided to see if it would pass in the next 10 or 15 minutes. If so, great. If not, I would continue in the rain. Just when I was putting my pack on to continue, Peter, an American pilgrim walking for religious reasons came by and we walked together for the next 10 km or so until he stopped to rest and I carried on another 3 km to a bar and shop, where I stopped for a cafe con leche and a small bocadillo and picked up some fruit and bread for tomorrow. Peter stopped by just as I was getting ready to leave and told a story of a very friendly dog where he was resting, and also a friendly man offering a stamp. While he was distracted by the friendly man, the friendly dog stole his sandwich from the bench beside him where he had put it.

From Campiello (where I had stopped in the bar) to Samblismo (where I am staying the night) is only 4 or 5 km but it was raining the whole time. I tried waiting this out a bit under some trees to no avail. I just hope the weather is better tomorrow.

Samblismo seems to be a nice albergue, with attached horreo. It us operated by Javier, the owner, and a volunteer. Rafa (I assume short for Rafael), is the volunteer this week, from Madrid. He set me up for a shower and took my clothes for the washing machine when I arrived, while we were waiting for Javier to come by and get me properly signed in. Now we are just waiting for enough other people to provide clothes to make up a load.

It seems that Alejandro and Alvaro, for whom I had made a reservation yesterday, decided to cancel with the rain and stay in Borres. That left Samblismo not full after all, and I felt a bit guilty about that because I was the one who confirmed the reservation. Fortunately, the four Italians from last night (two of whom are priests) came by and we persuaded them to stay, assuaging my guilt.

It was a great communal supper at 7 (after the Italuan pilgrims had celebrated mass in the horreo) of cream of mushroom soup followed by vegetarian paella with home-baked bread. And after supper the guitar came out and the singing commenced.

Photos below:
- looking back at Tineo
- roadside shrine
- view from the walk
- a wet day
- Samblismo albergue
- view from the horreo
- the communal supper

 

[Dani7]

I am enjoying reading about this Camino David. It’s calling me so I’m learning more about it through your journey. Thanks for the great posts and pictures.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 34: Samblismo to Berducedo via Hospitales (Primitivo Day 5)
26.5 km

Today wasn't especially hard but it seemed long. Partly that was because I didn't arrive until after 2:00, having left Samblismo probably around 7:30 (breakfast was at 7:00 by consensus). Partly it was because I had gotten the impression that the long walk before the two options join was the hard part and the rest was just the denouement. But the rest kept going and going and going with some steep and stony ascents and descents.

I woke up at 5ish again. I tried to sleep in, knowing breakfast wouldn't be until 7, without much success. Eventually I got up, got ready for the day and went to a nice breakfast. One thing different today was that I carried a lot more water. I had been advised to carry 3L, while usually I just carry one. So, prepared for this, I had been carrying around a collapsible 2L water bottle. Now was the time to get it out and fill it. Then, the question was, where to carry it. At first I had it swinging off the back of the backpack but that just wasn't working. So it wasn't too far into the walk before I changed things around and affixed it to a shoulder strap and the sternum strap, carrying it in the front instead. I was also carrying a nice large empanada I had picked up, knowing that food wasn't going to be available until arrival. It was this extra weight, more than the terrain, that made this a challenging walk. (I probably could have got by with about half as much water if I had drunk well before leaving in the morning. I still had a litre left when I reached the first water source. It might have been different if it had been really hot. But the weather ended up perfect: sunny and clear but windy and cool; some people even ended up putting on jackets or long pants.)

The day started with a very short walk up the hill to join the Hospitales route and then a brief walk in farmland before we left that behind. One thing that quickly became clear, there had been fires here not too long ago. The volunteer at the albergue told us they had been deliberately set, in several places simultaneously. Clearly they had covered a lot of ground. We saw the evidence of the fires most near the beginning of the walk but there were parts throughout where we could see the remains of fires.

The path through the Hospitales route was generally wide (at least, compared to the San Salvador) and not too steep. But the scenery was truly spectacular throughout. It will be hard selecting which photos to share. In the first part of the walk you pass by the three "hospitals". There were several groups of pilgrims I met on this part of the trail and saw repeatedly during the section, but not at all in the latter part of the walk. One of them seemed to think these were literally hospitals, for treating the sick and injured. My understanding is that they are supposed to have been more like pilgrim refuges, with "hospital" being related to "hospitality" or "hospitalero". There wasn't much left of them but the second was a little more substantial. I stopped there for a second breakfast of half the empanada and a nectarine. Others were also stopping there for second breakfast.

After the hospitales, the route continues through the hills (or mountains) often along the ridge between valleys. At one point we saw a couple of what appeared to be wild horses (I had read there were wild horses around). At another point we came to what was identified as the remains of Roman gold mining.

After a while, we came to where the two options meet up again. There were more horses there, as well as cows just past the road. From there it was a very steep descent over loose stones and rocks, but for most of it, if you looked carefully, you could see a clearer path. Then there was a long and narrow path to the picturesque village of Montefurado. If someone were to set up a bar or cafe or even just a donativo table with coolers of ice and cold drinks there, it would be a license to print money in the pilgrimage season, but no one is taking advantage of the opportunity. Then it was a long, long, long walk, mostly on a narrow path, often on stony, rocky ascents and descents (but with one nice interlude through a shady pine forest on a perfect walking surface) to Berducedo where I am stopping for the day at the local municipal albergue. I finished off my empanada when I got here. I think I will have bread and cheese and chorizo and apple and/or blueberries for supper. Tomorrow it is on to Grandas de Salime where I have booked a bed in a recommended albergue. I also sent an email to try and book a room in San Martín Pinario for when I arrive in Santiago but I haven't heard back yet to find out if I'm successful.

Photos below:
- burned forest
- "hospital"
- mountain views
- more mountain views
- remains of Roman gold mining
- wild horses?
- steep descent
- Montefurado on the hill

 

[Dani7]

Scenery is just spectacular. I could never get tired of that kind of natural beauty

 

[El Cascayal]

Berducedo where I am stopping for the day at the local municipal albergue.

The private Albergue a little down from the municipal has wonderful meals and a great melted cheese toast for breakfast. (I walk for food)

fires here not too long ago. The volunteer at the albergue told us they had been deliberately set, in several places simultaneously.

unconscionable

 

[Leemac40]

Done this route a couple of years ago after being left fatigued and with lung pain/breathing issues after COVID...... miraculously releaved during my Camino! Your daily updates and pictures are taking me back there. Thank you and Buen Camino

 

[trecile]

with one nice interlude through a shady pine forest on a perfect walking surface

That section of trail was lovely and such a nice surprise!

. I also sent an email to try and book a room in San Martín Pinario for when I arrive in Santiago but I haven't heard back yet to find out if I'm successful

You should call. In past years I successfully reserved via email, but this year I never received a response to my email. I called and got a pilgrim room, as did three of my walking companions.

 

[David Tallan]

That section of trail was lovely and such a nice surprise!



You should call. In past years I successfully reserved via email, but this year I never received a response to my email. I called and got a pilgrim room, as did three of my walking companions.

As you'll see from what I am about to post, I did call and got reservations for three of the four days I was looking for. I gave them a day to respond before calling.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 35: Berducedo to Grandas de Salime (Primitivo Day 6)
22 km

Today was a simple, straightforward day. It is the Primitivo, so it was by no means flat, but there was nothing especially difficult. There were climbs, but by now we just take them in stride. There were long descents that I could definitely feel in my knees, but they weren't especially treacherous.

I left the albergue at about 6:15 and after a bit it became apparent that, while the day was clear at my altitude, the valleys were filled with cloud or fog. When I got to the village of La Mesa, after about four and a half km, the was an albergue/bar/restaurant that was open so I stopped in for breakfast. There were a lot of other pilgrims having breakfast, too. I had a nice little breakfast of toast with tomato, cafe con leche, fresh blueberry juice (blueberries seem to be the specialty of the area) and a chocolate pastry.

I was joined at my table by Andy, whose home is near Seattle although he is currently living in Germany. He's done a fair number of Caminos and walks two each year. I walked with Andy for the next bit which included a long and fairly steep descent towards the waters of Salime, which, as we approached them, were covered with fog/cloud. Eventually we made it through that layer and they came into view. They snaked along the bottom of the valley and the Camino takes us all the way along one side of the valley, zigzagging down to water level where we cross along the top of the dam that dams the river, and then back up (literally) the other side before turning right and heading (west) to Grandas de Salime.

After a while, we were joined by Joško from Croatia and his perrogrino (dog) Floyd. We all walked together for a while, then Andy pulled ahead of us, then I pulled ahead of Joško and Floyd (although Floyd ran ahead at times to walk with me until Joško later passed me. Eventually we all reunited briefly at another bar stop, just past the dam, where I had a very nice pincho of tortilla and some fresh orange juice.

I left a bit ahead of Andy who passed me and pulled ahead, walking with the Spanish pilgrim he has nicknamed "the Rabbit". The way to Grandas is: first along the road and then along a woodland trail. You don't see it pretty much until you arrive.

The albergue I'm staying in is right at the entrance to the town. I'm afraid to say, I've been a bit of a challenging guest from the beginning. When I checked in I handed him a €10 note thinking I was handing him a €50. He kept telling me it was €15 and I didn't understand what the problem was until he suggested I pay by card and I said okay and then saw what he had handed me back. Then later, when I used the washing machine and he handed me my damp clothes to hang on the line, I noticed a sock was missing. I went up to check by the bed, checked the shower stall, shook the clothes on the line a bit, and then told him I was missing a sock. When the next load came out of the wash, he looked carefully but couldn't find the sock. I looked carefully with him and it wasn't there. I went and did all my checks again. No luck. Eventually I found it stuck to the velcro closure of a back pocket of one of the pairs of trousers I had hung to dry. Because it was in back, I hadn't seen it. Because it was stuck to the velcro, it hadn't fallen when I shook the trousers. But I had put him to all that trouble for nothing.

Then it was time to go to lunch/comida. I went to a little place called A Reigada that I found in Google. There were several other pilgrims I recognized there, too. The ensalada mixta was the typical one, but I saw a fellow pilgrim had ordered the soup which looked outstanding. My second course was stupendous, as the other options also looked when I saw them delivered to other tables. The pineapple cake I had for dessert was also delicious.

Then it was back to the albergue to rest, and book my accommodations in Santiago and Madrid for the end of the Camino. My original plan had been to stay at San Martín Pinario on the 18th and 19th (after the Camino Primitivo) and the 26th and 27th (after Finisterre and Muxía) but there wasn't a bed available on the 27th so I will head to Madrid a day early and have one more day there and one less day in Santiago.

Photos below:
- fog in the valley
- heading down into the cloud
- the perrogrino scouts ahead
- view from the dam, looking downstream
- upstream of the dam, from the mirador
- the woods before Grandas de Salime
- outside the albergue

 

[David Tallan]

Day 36: Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada (Primitivo Day 7)
27.25 km

Pretty much at the halfway mark of the Camino Primitivo. Today wasn't too hard, until the end.

I got up early and left at about 6 am. It was quite dark outside and foggy. I walked about 5 km through fields and forest and always fog until I came to the village of Castro, which has an albergue in a nice looking old building where I stopped for a cafe con leche before pressing on. Then it was another 4.5 km of gradual climb to the village of Peñafuente where it looked as though the sun was burning away the fog. Ha ha. Not the case. It quickly became apparent that what was really happening was that I was climbing above the fog. After Peñafuente was what I thought was the big climb of the day, up and over the Alto de Acebo to the village of O Acebo. There was a bar there, not yet open, and a bunch of pilgrims waiting outside, most of whom were familiar. The topic of my personal stamp had recently come up with one group of these pilgrims, and I got it out at their request. It was quite popular there for a while and I was kept busy stamping everyone's credentials. Eventually, about half an hour after I arrived, and about half an hour after it was supposed to open, a car pulled up and some people entered and the process of opening began. I got another cafe con leche and a piece of empanada. I eventually left after stopping for an hour there and continued on.

It was just over 10 km from there to A Fonsagrada, which looked from the elevation maps I had seen to be a fairly easy walk of two to two and a half hours. And so it proved to be until the village of Paradanova, about 1.5 km before A Fonsagrada. There everyone seemed gathered, deciding which of two options to take. Andy (whom I had walked with the previous day) said that he had read that, while the left option appeared shorter, it was by far the more difficult route. Diego had read that the opposite was true, and the left was the easier route. I happened to see some locals and asked them which was the better route to A Fonsagrada. The answer I got was that the left was the Camino Primitivo. I should have noticed that he didn't say it was the better or easier route. It was straight up. I would say that, while not the longest climb of the Primitivo, it was the toughest.

The group I was walking with weren't staying in A Fonsagrada but were walking on a few km to a place with a jacuzzi. But they were having lunch in A Fonsagrada. So I listened to where they were having lunch and, after checking into my albergue (the municipal, in a fine historic property) went and joined them for a nice lunch before returning to the albergue for a shower and change, and a rest to write this. I will soon head to the supermarket. I don't need to do laundry today because I've booked myself into an albergue tomorrow where they will wash your clothes in a washing machine.

Photos below:
- off into the fog
- getting above the fog in Peñafuente
- a lake of fog
- first Galician marker
- Galician scenery
- group lunch
- the albergue

 

[El Cascayal]

There everyone seemed gathered, deciding which of two options to take. Andy (whom I had walked with the previous day) said that he had read that, while the left option appeared shorter, it was by far the more difficult route. Diego had read that the opposite was true, and the left was the easier route. I happened to see some locals and asked them which was the better route to A Fonsagrada. The answer I got was that the left was the Camino Primitivo. I should have noticed that he didn't say it was the better or easier route. It was straight up. I would say that, while not the longest climb of the Primitivo, it was the toughest.

Oh yes! The same thing happened to me. At the cluster of houses between the road and the official Camino to the left, 2 local women effusively encouraged me to go left. It of course started raining a lot. It was so steep, I thought I was gonna die, it was the first time I ever cried on the Camino. When I reached the top, my Albergue was to the right with lots of more hills. After settling in and showering, the Hospitalera insisted on driving me into Fonsagrada. After eating at a wonderful restaurant Manaia sea Ela, (that was recommended by the 3 Hospitaleras from the Albergue Juvenil in Castro,) restaurant that sadly folded during the pandemic one of the two women owners called her personal taxi, her husband, who kindly dropped me off at my Albergue. How awful I must have looked and more importantly how immensely kind they all were.
Realizing the Camino continues on. All the Castro Hospitaleras have gone & the restaurant that supported local Galego music groups is gone too.
Love your Primitivo.
Once in Galicia and past A Fonsagrada, piece of cake, or perhaps a piece of tarta De Santiago.
Aymarah

 

[FrJimKingcsc]

Did the Primitivo last month. That hill into A Fonsagrada was not my favorite part either. If you stopped at O Cadavo today the route becomes much flatter than what you've been on so if you don't mind doing 30 km Lugo is quite manageable if that's where you're aiming for tomorrow. But FYI Albergue A Pocina de Muniz in Vilar de Cas halfway in between does have some of the nicest facilities of any albergue I've experienced (though you pay for it at 20 euros/bed) plus a homemade Galician dinner option for @ 16 euro? that includes full bottles of locally made after dinner liqueurs plopped on your table afterward (though I didn't think the breakfast was worth paying for).

But even if you are pushing on they have an outdoor, covered patio/bar for passersby that you might mistake for a barn if you walk past the first entrance directly into the albergue. It makes for a nice pit stop especially if it's raining. Buen Camino.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 37: A Fonsagrada to O Cádavo (Primitivo Day 8)
27 km

Another nice day on the Camino Primitivo (although it was damp early on) with a few km of substantial climbing and some nice pilgrim interactions.

I woke up early today and was out the door before 6:00. I am now well organized before I go to sleep so when I get up it is just a question of grabbing my charger and its ziplock, my backpack, and heading our of the dorm. Then, away from everyone else, I put the charger into the ziplock and the ziplock into the backpack, fill up my water, put on my shoes and grab my poles and head out, hopefully without waking anyone who is sleeping.

This morning it was dark and cloudy when I left and by the time I reached Padrón (not the one on the Camino Portugues, obviously) 15 or 20 minutes later, a gentle rain started to fall. I put on my rain jacket and pack cover and continued for a while but I decided that I was getting wetter from sweating into my rain jacket than I would be getting from the rain, so I took off the rain jacket. Of course, five minutes later the rain picked up. Still not a hard rain but definitely a rain that was now getting me wet. So I decided to use my umbrella again. The challenges with sight lines remain (it is fine going downhill but going uphill you only see a few feet in front of you) but dry and ventilated was worth it. The rain lasted for about two hours before I noticed it was done and put my umbrella away.

In the first part of today's walk, I gradually climbed to the Hospital de Montouto (1027m), a medieval pilgrim refuge from 1360. There are supposed to be some dolmen behind the site but I was unable to locate them. Then there is a long and substantial descent down to Paradavella, where I had breakfast. There is a bar shortly before Paradavella and Google shows some food places in the village. Since there seemed to be no patrons in the bar, I thought I would check out the ones in the village and see if anyone I knew was there. But, alas, Google once again lied and there were no establishments in the village so I backtracked to Casa Mesón and ordered a cafe con leche, tostada con tomate, and fresh squeezed orange juice. The latter was expensive but large.

While I was there, Maria and Jim from Sweden arrived and we got talking. I ended up walking with them all the way to O Cádavo. They weren't stopping here like I am. They have another 18 km to walk today. They are pulling incredibly long days, all the more amazing given the foot injuries Maria is recovering from.

Together, we tackled the next challenge the Camino Primitivo threw at us. It wasn't the ups and downs of the next 5 km which were, by now, standard fare. It was the steep climb after that centering on A Lastra, especially the half leading up to A Lastra, with an elevation gain of about 150m in one km. That was an effort, but one I felt prepared for after yesterday's climb to A Fonsagrada. When we eventually got to O Cádavo, about 5 km after the climb, I stopped for a coffee and exchanged email addresses with them before saying goodbye and Buen Camino. Then it was off to check into my albergue, hand over my laundry (a bit expensive but full service), and head out to lunch. On my lunch excursion I ran into some of the folks I had lunch with yesterday and we ate together. I realized that if some of us ordered wine and some ordered Kas Limon as our beverages we would be perfectly set up for all of us to have tinto veranos. We determined that one bottle of wine and three small bottles of Kas were the perfect ratio for four tintos de verano.

Then it was back to the albergue to do some reading and resting, and some writing, before heading out to the supermarket for something for a light supper. Maybe a ramen soup? We'll see.



Photos below:
- morning walk in the wet
- Hospital de Montouto
- old stone wall
- view during the walk
- view mid-climb
- view after the climb
- thatched horreo

 

[David Tallan]

Day 38: O Cádavo to Lugo (Primitivo Day 9)
30 km brought me to the 100 km marker, and about another 8 km around Lugo since then (mostly without backpack)

Today was a long day of walking, made longer by the three detours I took to see various churches. Why did I add these detours to a day that was already supposed to be 30 km? In for a penny, in for a pound, I guess.

The day started just after 6, cool and foggy as seems to be the pattern here in Galicia. The first detour was just a few km into the walk, adding an extra half km to see the church of Santa María de Vilabade. It is supposed to be a marvelous Spanish Gothic church from the 15thC and maybe it appears that way from the inside. From the outside it doesn't look terribly gothic and it was closed when I passed by.

The two options join together again in Castroverde where I stopped for a bit of breakfast about 2 hours into my walk (cafe con leche and chocolate filled pastry) and watched the encierro in Pamplona on the TV. I had also read from another pilgrim that Vilar de Cas, another 6 km on, was a good place to stop and have something, but I figured second breakfast is always good.

The second detour was a short one, 200m each way, to see what was billed in the sign as an ancient monastery from 1185 but what appeared to be a very typical Spanish parish church. That was shortly before Vilar de Cas, where I saw the place, attached to the albergue, promising cold drinks, coffee, and more. Unfortunately, even after 9 am, it still seemed locked up tight, so I went on.

The third detour was described as adding another 800m to the day, to the church of San Salvador de Soutomerille, which dates back to Pre-Romanesque times, although the main evidence seems to be a window at the back. It is an extra walk in the woods to see it, and as a package deal you also get to see some truly ancient trees.

That led into Gondar, at the entrance to which sits the Oasis Primitivo where I stopped for a short break and a stamp in my credencial and was plied with fruit.

I should say something about the walk today. After an initial substantial (if gradual) climb and descent, it is clear we have left the mountains behind. But that doesn't mean it is flat like the meseta. By no means. Think rolling hills. Most of the day was up and down, just not too steep or long. As usual, there is a mix of asphalt, dirt roads and footpaths; woods, walking between fields, and through villages. And, of course, today ended up in a big city.

As I started getting closer to Lugo, I started becoming aware that I was also getting closer to the 100 km from Santiago mark. And as it get to be less than 10 km away, I started counting down to it. But I was doing so in terms of the practice walks I would do when preparing for the Camino, which used a route that was 7-10 km long. I would think "here is where I am on the route. I have just that much left to walk." The walk into Lugo was surprisingly non-industrial, mostly through forest until you are there. And shortly after entering Lugo, there was the 100 km marker, near a large metal sign that said "Lugo km100". At this point, I sat down, had a drink of water, booked tomorrow's bed, and figured out how to get to where I am staying the night (a university residence that doubles as a hostal in the summer).

I then left the Camino, walked the 18 minutes (according to Google, I didn't time it) to my place, settled in, had a good rest, a snack of apple and cheese, and then thought I'd see the cathedral. It's a 20 minute walk (again, according to Google) to the cathedral. When I got there I saw the young pilgrims I've been seeing repeatedly. Rather than pay to see the cathedral (€4 with pilgrim discount) they are planning to take advantage of the fact that admission is free during mass and go to the 8:00 mass. They invited me to join them for supper at 6:00 prior to the mass (until they went to book a table at the restaurant only to discover that it isn't open then). In any case, I decided to fork out the €4 and see the cathedral right away. That was I can see parts that might not be accessible during mass, I can have an audio guide, and there is zero chance of me disrupting a service. There is no photography or videography allowed anywhere in the Lugo cathedral and museum. According to the audioguide, this is because the Holy Sacrament is always on display. So I've got no photos to share of the interior.

After that it was back to the residence, via a supermarket for the yogurt drink I love to quaff here in Spain. Now I've got to figure out what to do about supper. Of course, everywhere local that Google says is open is actually closed. I'm not feeling terribly hungry though (despite the 38 km I've walked) so that isn't motivating me to go out looking.

Photos below:
- morning mist
- fountain in Castroverde
- cat toy pretending to be a horreo
- parish church or 12thC monastery, you be the judge
- back side of San Salvador de Soutomerille with window
- 100 km to go
- Romanesque doors to Lugo cathedral

 

[sprinto]

Hi Dave
I will be doing the Primitivo next April/ May and was wondering how many walking days are you doing , just about to book flights and following you with interest
Cheers

 

[peregrina2000]

The first detour was just a few km into the walk, adding an extra half km to see the church of Santa María de Vilabade. I

My thoughts exactly! But I thought Soutermereille was well worth it - in fact, I’ve gone there twice. Most recently, I was happy to see that I could actually get a good view of the window because there had been some removal of brush and pricker bushes. And those trees are something!

I‘m pretty sure I know the answer, but are you planning a detour to Santa Eulalia?

I’m not sure if you’re planning on walking the Camiño Verde, and you wold miss the pretty riverside part with the replaced wooden planks if you went to Santa Eulalia, but you can join up with the Verde right after the Santa Eulalia if you are planning to sleep in Friol.

 

[David Tallan]

My thoughts exactly! But I thought Soutermereille was well worth it - in fact, I’ve gone there twice. Most recently, I was happy to see that I could actually get a good view of the window because there had been some removal of brush and pricker bushes. And those trees are something!

I‘m pretty sure I know the answer, but are you planning a detour to Santa Eulalia?

I’m not sure if you’re planning on walking the Camiño Verde, and you wold miss the pretty riverside part with the replaced wooden planks if you went to Santa Eulalia, but you can join up with the Verde right after the Santa Eulalia if you are planning to sleep in Friol.

I am certainly considering Santa Eulalia for today, although not planning on the Camino Verde this time. Is Sata Eulalia the same as Santalla?

 

[David Tallan]

Hi Dave
I will be doing the Primitivo next April/ May and was wondering how many walking days are you doing , just about to book flights and following you with interest
Cheers

I am doing 11 walking days from Oviedo to Melide, 14 to Santiago. My advice is always to book more than you think you will possibly need, in case you have to pause or slow down for health reasons on the Camino. The last thing you want is to find yourself, when you've had to slow down, forced to march long days at the end to meet a plane. If you have extra time at the end there is lots to see in Spain, or you can extend your walk to the coast.

 

[TerryB]

Day 37: A Fonsagrada to O Cádavo (Primitivo Day 8)
27 km
. . . . . . . In the first part of today's walk, I gradually climbed to the Hospital de Montouto (1027m), a medieval pilgrim refuge from 1360. There are supposed to be some dolmen behind the site but I was unable to locate them. . . . . . .

The dolmen is in the field immediately behind the ruins (on the right hand side as you enter). It is missing its capstone and may be partly hidden in gorse, brambles and bracken.



Blessings
Terry B

 

[peregrina2000]

I am certainly considering Santa Eulalia for today, although not planning on the Camino Verde this time. Is Sata Eulalia the same as Santalla?

Sorry just to have seen this now, but yes, the bóveda of Santa Eulalia is in the parroquia of Santalla de Mera. But you are probably there now!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

As you'll see from what I am about to post, I did call and got reservations for three of the four days I was looking for. I gave them a day to respond before calling.

Kudos to @trecile for such a good tip. Many of us have desired to stay at San Martin Pinareo with no luck through emailing during their busy times.

David, I have not zoned into your daily posts yet, but having walked the Primitivo, I hope to "walk again" through your writings; the photos I have quickly skimmed through look outstanding.

 

[dbier]

I am very grateful that you're posting this now, as I am hoping to follow you in about 2 months. Much obliged, sir.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 39: Lugo to Ferreira (Primitivo Day 10)
30.7 km

Today was another long day of walking, made better by good advice (which also made it longer) and fellow pilgrims, who can help make it seem shorter.

The day seemed to fall into thirds. The first third took me to my first stop, at the vending machines. The second third took me to my last stop, at the bar. And the last third took me to my albergue.

I started later than usual, leaving at 6:30 and rejoining the Camino about 20 minutes later at 10 to 7. Getting out of Lugo was a bit of a slog, although perhaps noteworthy that it also seemed to follow the Via Romana XIX for a while. It was mostly on or beside roads through uninspiring settings. Frankly, it was kind of blah and getting me down. It probably didn't help that I hadn't eaten much yesterday on my long 38 km day. Breakfast was coffee and a pastry. Lunch was some an apple, and some cheese. Supper was a yogurt drink, the rest of the cheese, and a peach. I know Lugo offers culinary delights, but I didn't feel hungry enough to motivate myself to do even more walking to reach them. So I was pretty much running on empty for my walk out of Lugo.

After 9 or 10 km I finally reached somewhere where I could pause for refreshment (and a bathroom break). There was a small rest stop (Casa Zapateiro) with a food and cold drink vending machine, a hot drink vending machine, a sink, toilets, and tables. A great place for a rest, a drink of water, and a chocolate covered pastry from the vending machine. I was joined by the Spanish brothers I had often seen along the Camino Primitivo. After that rest and refreshment, I went on with a little more vigor in my step. But the environment was, to put it frankly, still a little boring. But I was ready to spice it up with another detour. A more significant detour this time (about two and a half km each way), with a more significant reward. I went off Camino to the village of Bóveda, wherein is found Santalla de Bóveda. Hiding underneath a normal seeming church is a mysterious monument: Roman temple, paleo-christian edifice, or Swabian or Visigothic building, the jury is still out. The interior seems earlier (4th C) and the exterior, with the oldest use of a horseshoe arch in Spain, later (6th or 7th C). All in all, a really fascinating find and worth the 5 km detour. Especially since it is located in a really nice village (it reminded me of O Cebreiro, except without the pallozas and being a functioning farming village, rather than one relying on tourism). And on the way back, just before rejoining the Camino, there is another nice church, the Romanesque church in Bacurín.

The pastry I had from the vending machine wasn't enough, though, so I was looking for something else to eat. A short distance from the Camino was Crecente, where the ladies in the Mesón were preparing the day's comida. But they were also ready to prepare me a small plate of jamon, fresh cheese, bread, and a cafe con leche. This would help take the edge off. A little further down the road was a bar where I saw a peregrina from the large pilgrim family of young people I have been hanging out with sometimes (I missed joining them for supper yesterday). She was eating an empanada and I went in to get one myself. We were joined by Andre from that group, and after a bit the rest of them. Also a Taiwanese quartet that I have frequently seen, and Joško, and a couple of his companions: human and perrogrino (Floyd). I stayed a while there before pressing on.

It wasn't too long after I left that it began to rain. It had been threatening rain for a while and it finally arrived. It rained pretty much the rest of my walk with one very brief respite. If I hadn't detoured and hadn't made those stops, I'm pretty sure I could have beaten the rain to my albergue. But I think they were worth the rain. I wore my rain jacket because the rain arrived accompanied by wind. After a while I was joined by Andre and we walked together until I reached my albergue at the very beginning of Ferreira.

I checked in, booked supper, and asked about laundry. It seems the washing machine is broken but he offered hope that if I was willing to wait it would be fixed later and could be used. I said I would wait. There is no sense in handwashing when it was raining out and nothing would dry. If worse comes to worse, I can do laundry tomorrow. The albergue isn't very full, despite this being a stage end in Gronze and this being the only albergue without recent complaints here. It was nice to have been issued non-disposable sheets, a towel, and shampoo and body wash upon arrival. I'm going to pause this while I check out the laundry situation.

Well, the washer is working again, but not the dryer. I think I will leave my laundry for tomorrow and place my hopes in tomorrow's albergue. Supper is in 50 minutes, but I will stop here.

Photos below:
- leaving Lugo
- Santalla de Bóveda interior
- Santalla de Bóveda exterior
- Church in Bacurín
- Galician horreo
- replica of milestone dedicated to Caligula
- Galician countryside

 

[peregrina2000]

I remember once when I went by Bacurín there was an elderly woman sweeping the leaves and debris off the graves that are near the church. She told me her husband was buried there and that she likes to go there daily “para rezar y recordar.” (to pray and remember). It is a very peaceful place, isn’t it.

I was surprised to hear about bad reviews for what must be the Albergue Ponte Ferreira, but it seems it is now under new management. I never heard anything but glowing reviews for @Thomas1962 and his wife. Then I saw there were also a bunch of bad reviews for the Nave, which was another surprise (I stayed there when @Juanma ran both the Nave and Albergue Ponte Ferreira). Gronze lists a third albergue that I had never heard about - Albergue Cruz Ferreira. Is that where you are? Hope you have a good dinner!

 

[Dani7]

WoW for the Santilla de Bóveda pictures. Thank you for sharing your journey and the extra 5km. I applaud and appreciate your efforts. Walking in spirit vicariously through you.

 

[trecile]

I was surprised to hear about bad reviews for what must be the Albergue Ponte Ferreira, but it seems it is now under new management. I never heard anything but glowing reviews for @Thomas1962 and his wife. Then I saw there were also a bunch of bad reviews for the Nave, which was another surprise (I stayed there when @Juanma ran both the Nave and Albergue Ponte Ferreira

I stayed in a private room at A Nave de Ferreira and my friends stayed at Albergue Ponte Ferrería. No complaints from any of us as far as the accommodations went. I had both dinner and breakfast with my friends at Ponte Ferrería, and I wouldn't say that it was the best meal, but the staff were friendly, and it was nice join in a communal dinner.

 

[David Tallan]

Gronze lists a third albergue that I had never heard about - Albergue Cruz Ferreira. Is that where you are? Hope you have a good dinner!

That's where I am. There were a total of three of us here. So we each got our own dorm room. Dinner seemed pretty standard for a menu del dia. Not fabulous but not bad, either.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 40: Ferreira to Melide (Primitivo Day 11)
about 22 km

Today was a relatively short day of walking (compared to the last couple of days) in good company but not the best weather. Ultimately, it was the people not the places that made today special.

I woke up, ready to leave at my usual 6 am but it was pretty obvious that it was raining steadily, despite the fact that my weather app said it wasn't supposed to rain until the afternoon. We are in Galicia so rain is to be expected. So, since it wasn't supposed to be a long walk today, and my accommodations were booked, I decided to wait until 7 and see if the rain stopped. No such luck. On went my pack cover and umbrella and out I went.

It didn't take me long to realize that the rain must be coming in at a good angle, because the umbrella was only keeping my head and shoulders dry, so on went the rain jacket, too.

I hadn't made it far, barely into the village of Ferreira (my albergue was just before the village) when I met Joško, his canine companion Floyd, and the others in his group: Leen, Rixa, and Diego.

I walked with them pretty much the whole way today, stopping with them to eat, drink, and collect stamps along the way (Floyd has his own canine credencial). It certainly makes the time go faster and the damp weather more bearable. It was great to get to know the group better and to share stories with them. To be honest, I was focused mire on the group than the landscapes today (although the landscapes are harder to appreciate in the rain and I think we are beyond the part of the Primitivo with truly stunning landscapes). There also wasn't much in the way of historic monuments today I was on the lookout for. Just a Roman bridge in Ferreira that Joško helpfully pointed out. So there isn't a lot of description of what I saw on the Camino today. It was the usual green Galician countryside of farms, pastures and woods, rolling hills giving you plenty of ups and downs but not the mountainous extreme ones, mostly grayed out a bit with rain. There were several nice bars today (and an albergue that also functioned as one, for our first stop, where we could get a breakfast) that gave us opportunities to rest and refresh ourselves, say hello to other pilgrims (including several I had met before and a pair of Kiwi ladies I hadn't, but Floyd's gang obviously had).

When we got to Melide, which was before 1, we walked right past my albergue without my noticing and headed into the centre of town to find a bar where we stopped for a drink, a snack (thanks, Diego!) and a bit of a rest. Before we got up again to go our separate ways, we arranged to meet at 7 by Leen and Rixa's hotel for supper. In the meantime, Diego and I hit a pulperia for pulpo and pimientos de Padrón to tide us over. Melide is the pulpo capitol, after all.

Then I headed back to my albergue where washing my laundry was the first order of business. Once it dries I can have a shower, because then I will have something clean to change into. I've also been doing a bit of planning for the next few days.

My original plan was to do the last couple of days the same as I did on the Frances in 2016 with Toby. That would be Ribadiso and then O Pedrouzo. It gives me an extra short day tomorrow of only about 10 km before two 21 or 22 km days. But now I am thinking of walking to Salceda (25 km), Lavacola (17 km) and then only 10 km into Santiago. That's the way I am leaning now.

Photos below:
- Roman bridge in Ferreira
- bridge before San Xurxo
- me with Floyd's gang
- Galician countryside I
- Galician countryside II
- road cows
- pulpo!

 

[janettracy]

Day 30: Oviedo to Grado (Primitivo Day 1)
27.4 km

This is a continuation from my Camino de Madrid and my Camino de San Salvador, which I posted in those sub-forums.

(note from mods: edited to add links to the earlier threads).

Last night, I ended up getting something to eat on "Cider Street" in Oviedo, so of course I had cider with my meal. Unfortunately, the "menu" options weren't available until 10 pm, but I could order platos, so I tried to make my own with a first and second plate. The waitress corrected me that I was ordering way too much and should just limit myself to the fabada that I had picked as a first course. She was right. With that and a dessert I was overstuffed.

I woke up at 5 this morning and realized I wasn't getting back to sleep again, so I was out of the albergue at 6. It took a while to get out of Oviedo. At first I was relying on my GPS tracks but after a while the yellow arrows and "Camino Primitivo" signs became frequent and I started following them instead. I noticed that the route they were taking me on didn't match my IGN GPS tracks, nor the Wise Pilgrim tracks. It may not have been quite as efficient but following the arrows meant I didn't have to keep checking my phone, so I took the yellow arrow route out of Oviedo and it seemed to work.

I didn't take as many photos or videos today because it didn't seem all that different. Eventually walking through one forest looks much like walking through another. Walking next to one set of green mountains looks much like walking next to another. Like yesterday, there was walking through forests and farms, on highways and byways and little paths, next to fields and mountains and rivers. One difference I'm noticing is the little chapels by the side of the road with a stamp left for pilgrims to stamp their credenciales.

Today wasn't too hard. There was one climb that was tougher than the rest but certainly not as tough as some of the climbs on the San Salvador. I think the real tough days are still to come.

There were a couple if pilgrims I saw a few times while walking. One of them was Ivan from Lugo. He is walking from the easternmost point in Spain, in Catalunya to the westernmost point in Galicia, stitching together a number of lesser known caminos to do so. He's been camping a lot on caminos that don't have a lot if infrastructure. He is pulling long days for the next bit, and so is walking further than me today (and tomorrow). At one point I approached a house with a lady in the yard and was calling out my usual "Buenos dias!" greeting when I noticed Ivan in the yard. He had a bunch of oranges. He had told her what nice oranges she had and she told him to take what he wanted. He offered me some and, after thanking the woman, we were on our way happily munching oranges. They were sweet and very refreshing. Afterwards I had sticky hands until I arrived at the first village with a water fountain (Paladín). I was very disappointed that La Fuente, which I passed on the way to Paladín, did not in fact have a fountain, belying its name.

Eventually, I got to Grado and spent a while walking into town to find the albergue, which I did shortly after noon. But I was puzzled. There were signs on the way to the albergue and on the door saying that the albergue was full/completo. But the albergue doesn't open until 2 and doesn't take reservations. How could it be full at noon? I was chatting with Ivan, who was sitting in the park in front of the albergue cooking and eating before heading on, when the hospitaleros came. They had neglected to take down the previous day's signs. They said I could leave my backpack inside marking my place as first in line so long as I was back before two. So I dropped off my backpack and poles and went to explore the market for a bit.

I picked up a couple of apples and a chorizo bun from the market, and a yogurt drink from the supermarket which I downed right away. And headed back to the albergue, where already the first other pilgrims had begun to arrive. By the time they opened up at 2, there were 4-6 of us. Pilgrims continued to arrive and they were full (16 pilgrims) at around 4:30.

I decided not to do my laundry today, holding out hope for ending up at an albergue with a washing machine tomorrow at Salas, where there appear to be several albergues with one. So it wasn't too long before, showered and shaved, I was headed over to the seniors social centre for the €9 comida recommended by the hospitaleros. It was certainly not bad for the price, but nothing to get too excited about.

When I got back I had a nice chat with the hospitalera (they are a married couple from Norway). They had also done the Camino Madrid, do we had a nice chat comparing notes and talking about the various Caminos we have done.

Then I had a little nap and wrote about my day which brings us to the present. I expect a restful time, a chorizo bun and apple for cena, and an early bedtime so I can get up and on my way early tomorrow, although we have been promised a substantial breakfast with cinnamon buns (paid for by yesterday's pilgrims)!

Photos below:
- early morning Oviedo (where apparently they have electric scooters for rent)
- Parque Camino de Santiago, on the way out of Oviedo, with its interestingly sculpted bushes
- views on the Camino Primitivo Day One: I
- views on the Camino Primitivo Day One: II
- Ermita del Carmen
- Camino marker
- entrance to Peñaflor
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I really enjoyed your pictures and your post. I’d like to do the Primitivo. Thanks.

 

[David Tallan]

Day 41: Melide to Salceda (Primitivo Day 12)
about 26.5 km

I slept in until 6 this morning and passed on the breakfast buffet in my albergue (which I would otherwise have partaken of) in order to meet Floyd's gang for coffee at 7:15 to theoretically depart at 7:30. I think we actually left a bit later than that.

As yesterday, walking with the group left me more inclined to social interaction and conversation than taking in the sights although a quick perusal of Gitlitz and Davidson's guide confirms that I wouldn't have found much to draw my attention had I been walking alone. There was the usual mix of walking by field and through forest (often eucalyptus). Diego showed us a photo he claimed to have taken when he hung back from the group for a while - of a koala. Personally, I have my doubts that koalas were imported with the trees. There were a fair number of hills today as we crossed several streams and rivers, invariably walking downhill to cross and uphill afterwards. Often villages that we passed through would similarly provoke an ascent and a descent.

We stopped several times for rest and refreshment. This allowed us to see the same pilgrims again and again. Floyd's gang are fairly fast walkers (a bit faster than I normally walk, but within the range I am okay keeping up with) so we would pass people as we walked but they would catch up to us in the bar where we stopped, or pass us only to have us pass them again when we resumed walking.

But all good things come to an end. I bid them goodbye when we got to Salceda as I turned off towards my albergue (once again, a bit off-Camino) and they continued on to O Pedrouzo. They will get to Santiago a day before me. But maybe I will be able to connect again with any that are not immediately moving on. That's the plan.

This albergue was noted in the reviews for the quality of its food, so I signed up for supper and it did not disappoint. I wrangled myself a sear at the table with the other pilgrims (from the US, UK, Hungary, and France) and great conversation was had. The two Americans had done the Pacific Crest Trail last year, something of interest to the Hungarian pilgrim at the table, so there was some discussion of that. Then it was time to collect my laundry, prepare my pack for departure tomorrow, finish this post, and go to sleep.

See you tomorrow.

Photos below:
- Ponte do río Catasol (courtesy of Joško)
- into the woods, again
- Floyd, the perrogrino, "our leader"
- Church of Santiago of Boente, through the glass, where stamps were offered
- bridge at Ribadiso
- Galician countryside
- passing through Arzúa

 

[David Tallan]

Day 42: Salceda to Lavacolla (Primitivo Day 13)
about 18.6 km

I woke at about 5 this morning when one of my fellow pilgrims had a coughing bout but I didn't get up until after 7 when breakfast was being served. After a bit of breakfast (cafe con leche and a croissant) I headed out to start my day. It was chilly again but I knew the walking would, if not warm me up, at least make me less cold. A later start was fine because it was a short day today and I didn't expect many people to be stopping just 10 km before Santiago. The city tends to have a magnetic affect that sucks pilgrims in as they get close.

You hear a lot in the Camino forums and Facebook groups about how crowded the last 100 km of the Camino Frances are. Here I am, in precisely that section, during the busiest time of year for that section (July and August - May and September are the busiest times of year for the section after St. Jean Pied de Port). My experience was somewhat different than that reported. I didn't need to book ahead at my albergue. It was only half full. And I didn't pick a terrible one. I looked for one with good reviews on Gronze and Wise Pilgrim. I didn't find myself in maddening crowds, a constant conga line that filled the road as far as the eye could see with pilgrims. Far from it. For the first half of my walk I was most often alone, with no pilgrims I could see in front of me. And when I could see other pilgrims there were only one or two. After O Pedrouzo it did get a little busier. I did see a couple of groups. One I passed pretty quickly. The other pretty much disappeared when I stopped to check something on my phone and thereafter only rarely appeared in the distance ahead of me. You would see larger groups gathered at bars, but pilgrims were pretty spaced apart between bars, and, what with the turns in the road, there were plenty of times when you didn't see any in front of you.

I stopped at the 15 km mark, 5 km from today's destination, for second breakfast of fresh squeezed orange juice, tostada con tomate, and a pastry with chocolate. There I was joined by Michel from France, who is one of the pilgrims I've seen over and over in the last little while. We set off and walked together for a while until San Paio, around 2.5 km later. Then he took a break and I headed on, soon catching up with a Taiwanese group I've also seen again and again on the Primitivo, although not in the last couple of days. They are staying at Monte de Gozo tonight, 5 km further on than where I am staying, so I said goodbye to them as I headed to my albergue. I'm now sitting outside with a few other pilgrims waiting for it to open.

As I said, today's was a short walk. Not very strenuous. Just a few hills. Lots of forest, mostly eucalyptus. Some walking by farms and fields. Lots of little villages. Stray cats were plentiful. Bars were plentiful, as were people selling little handcrafted souvenirs and offering sellos (stamps). Now I am looking forward to a lazy afternoon. Although, of course, I will have to wash myself throughly here in Lavacolla before entering Santiago. It is tradition, after all.

Photos below:
- before A Brea
- after A Brea
- in the woods
(notice the huge quantity of fellow pilgrims in this stretch between Sarria and Santiago)
- second breakfast
- I don't think I am quite in Santiago yet, despite the marker
- You find the pilgrim crowds at the bar. This is the first bar in the village. There was a sign advising pilgrims there are two bars in the village.
- Lavacolla church

 

[David Tallan]

Arrived!
(My reports will continue in the "Santiago de Compostela - the destination" and Camino Finisterre/Muxia forums)

 

[Dani7]

You must have gotten there early!!!

 

[David Tallan]

You must have gotten there early!!!

Before 9 am. It was only 10 km from Lavacolla. Even the piper wasn't there yet.

 

[KayVee]

@David Tallan Thank you for a great write up! It was lovely to walk the primitivo through your words less than a week after I walked it. From the paella at Samblismo to the pineapple cake at A Reigada to the climb to Fonsagrada..rekindled recent memories. Gracias!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I've enjoyed following your written journey, now I'm behind you in reality. I can but echo @Dani7, I've not seen anyone's photo of them completely alone in front of the Cathedral!!
It's a wonderful Camino.
Looking forward to following you onwards !

 

[cruiser75]

What a great trip report David! Thanks for taking the time to share the journey. I have found it entertaining, inspiring and helpful.