LIVE from the Camino O Camiño dos Faros

[Fred Gaudet]

After completing the Olvidado and the Invierno I stayed two nights in Santiago then took three buses to Malpica, the start of the O Camiño dos Faros—the Lighthouse Way.

The first bus left at 7am to A Coruña. The next went to Carballo and the last to Malpica arriving about 11am on October 11. There is a faster bus but it arrived after six and I wanted to see the start of Dos Faros in the afternoon.

There is an Association for the Dos Faros with a great web site with useful information in both Spanish and English, such as the phone numbers of taxis in different towns. It also has a trail route as of 2020 that can be found on Wikiloc that is easy to use and follow. John Hayes has a 2019 book Walking the Camiño Dos Faros which I had as a Kindle edition. It has useful information on each of the 8 stages, including kilometers,time needed, things to see, places to stay and eat. It was fairly up to date although some of the places to eat were closed, either permanently or because of the long holiday week.

The route is fairly well marked with small green arrows, dots, or small feet. If after a junction or whatever and I didn’t see a green dot soon, I would check Wikiloc and quickly return to the correct direction if necessary. Going thru some of the small pueblos I had to best guess and verify with Wikiloc.

I was told by three hickers who had finished the route that it was “muy duro”, very hard, which it was. I thought that having done the Olvidado alternatives that it would be no harder than the mountains. However, for me it was much harder, or “muy duro” not because of the constant ups and downs but because of all the rocks/stones to walk over, around, and through. I’ve lost some of my sense of balance, or maybe just a psychological loss, so going over the rocks was a pain and real slow even with hiking poles. Hayes mentioned that from a certain place to a lighthouse was about 20 minutes but I needed more than 35. And as an 81 year old, my pace is not as fast as 10 years ago, particularly when there are rocks right on the trail.

Saw a few day hikers at first, but only three others until almost Muxia where there seemed to be dozens of peregrinos coming from Santiago. There are no alberques until Muxia, so lodging is more expensive. Generally it was easy to find a place to eat, although I had food with me especially for my lunchtime, around noon. Usually I was able to get a big meal before the 3:30 or 4 kitchen closing time, otherwise it’s the usual 8 to 9 dinner time.

At Mapica started at kilometer 0 next to the mascot of the trail, Traski. Those who hike are referred to as “tranos”.

In the next posting I’ll indicate where I stayed and where I took a taxi.

 

[Former member 35551]

Hi, Fred, thanks for posting this and look forward to hearing about accommodations and perhaps a little bit more about the route. I had planned on doing this in 2019 but ended up not going because of COVID. However, the route that I had laid out was starting in Santiago, going to Fisterra, Muxia, Malpica, Coruna and from there the Ingles back to Santiago. Basically a huge loop. Appreciate your thoughts on going clockwise like this.

 

[Fred Gaudet]

O Peracha, going from Muxia to Malpica would be hard to follow the trail since the small arrows or dots would be usually impossible to see. You could always use the track on Wikiloc or another app since it shows where you’re located. If you’re on a beach or road, no problem, otherwise I think going in the reverse direction would be extremely difficult.

 

[Former member 35551]

Great. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Fred Gaudet]

I stayed at Hotel Fonte do Fraile. The room was nice and there was a garden and an inside gathering place. They also had breakfast at 8 the next morning. Stopped at Y Barra for a good meal and an awesome four layered chocolate cake.

Stage 1 ends at a beach with nothing around so a taxi has to be taken back to where staying and retuned in the morning. I had a room at Casa de Vasca in As Grazas so went back there. Going back to Malpica would be an option.

Stage 2 is long (and hard) and I got a late start since breakfast wasn’t until 8:30.
There is a big burnt area for kilometers and I got off the trail. Took me about 10 minutes to refine it using Wikiloc. After I made it to Faro O Roncudo decided I didn’t want to walk the next five plus kilometers so called a taxi. Stayed at Pension Teyma in Puenteseco and there was a bar/cafe next door which open early in the morning.

Stage 3 was easier walking but when I reached AC429 called a taxi so as not to walk the last five or so kilometers into Laxe. Stayed at Hostal Bahia and Manual drove me to his brother’s restaurant. After resting some, went around the peninsula on the start of the next stage seeing Faro Laxe.

At the end of Stage 4 in Arou there is no hostal or hotel. I found on Booking an apartment for one night. Since it had a washing machine I decided to stay there rather than taking a taxi back and forth to Laxe. I ate at O Colmando de Arou which also has a very small grocery store. I really enjoyed walking through a boulder field with weird shapes .

Stage 5. The same cafe was open early. Fairly easy walking except it started to rain. Usually in October there is rain half of the month, but the four or so hours of a drizzle was the only rain for me. Walked across a long beach and with wet shoes, sand in the shoes (for the next two days). This section is in the center of the Costa do Morte. After seeing the rocks in front of the stunning Faro do Cabo Vilán I understood why there were hundreds who died around this area.
Took a taxi the rest of the way into Camariñas, staying at Hotel O Parranda.

Stage 6. Had a late breakfast and took a taxi about half way this very long stage. In Cereixo on a tympanum on a side door of a church there is a depiction of Santiago being transported in a boat. In Muxia stayed at Habitat CM Muxia. Towards evening followed the Dos Faros route up to the high point for an overview of the city as well as toward the ocean. I was glad I didn’t have my backpack because there were a few steep scrambles. The Faro Muxia, the Santuario de Nosa Señora da Bacas, and the massive split stone, A Férida, as a monument remembering the Prestige oil spill, were all together at that end of the peninsula. The church was closed but could see inside.

The next day took a bus to Santiago. I thought the bus left at 1:15, but the time was 15:15. A few hours to reminisce about Dos Faros. There are still two more stages but they can wait for another walk in another year and probably from Santiago to Muxia.