LIVE from the Camino On the Road again...

[jdpiguet]

Just started this morning from Vézelay: there is a music festival this weekend, so no service in the basilica, but a really nice mass in la Cordell.
Finally started around 9:30, way to late for the 35°C which are hitting the region...
But now in the "L'esprit du Chemin", the best albergue in the world
Will try to update regularly...

Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

 

[peregrina2000]

Looking forward to hearing all about this Camino, which I have never walked. But I wonder is the Esprit du Chemin the new place run by the owners of a SJPP albergue of the same name? I had read that they moved to a less traveled camino, and this would be a good candidate! I stayed in their place in SJPP more than a decade ago, and still remember it well. Wishing you a wonderful camino, Laurie

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Just started this morning from Vézelay

Bon chemin. Waymarks take alert vision! Have fun.

 

[SabsP]

Looking forward to hearing all about this Camino, which I have never walked. But I wonder is the Esprit du Chemin the new place run by the owners of a SJPP albergue of the same name? I had read that they moved to a less traveled camino, and this would be a good candidate! I stayed in their place in SJPP more than a decade ago, and still remember it well. Wishing you a wonderful camino, Laurie

Arno & Huberta
http://www.espritduchemin.org/en/hosts

 

[jsalt]

Bon chemin!

 

[jdpiguet]

Looking forward to hearing all about this Camino, which I have never walked. But I wonder is the Esprit du Chemin the new place run by the owners of a SJPP albergue of the same name? I had read that they moved to a less traveled camino, and this would be a good candidate! I stayed in their place in SJPP more than a decade ago, and still remember it well. Wishing you a wonderful camino, Laurie

Yes it is Arno and Huberta and the new place is right in the foot of the one from SJPDP....

Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

 

[grayland]

You are are very fortunate person.
There are many envious folks following you here.

 

[giorgio]

When we walked this Camino we had the opportunity to stay a few nights being hosted by Les Amis du chemin de Vezelay ...
Fantastic people and some of the greatest evenings ever spent during our walks... should you have this opportunity would deeply recommend it...
Bon Chemin

 

[Purky]

I remember the Voie de Vezelay fondly, and I always smile when I think back. I had the good fortune to stay at L'esprit du Chemin (a little slice of camino heaven) and was always treated as a friend by the good folks of Les Amis du chemin de Vezelay.
The Via Lemovicensis is a fantastic route, with just the right mix of solitude and people with the biggest hearts. I'd walk it again in a heartbeat. Bon chemin!

 

[backpack45scb]

Looking forward to hearing all about this Camino, which I have never walked. But I wonder is the Esprit du Chemin the new place run by the owners of a SJPP albergue of the same name? I had read that they moved to a less traveled camino, and this would be a good candidate! I stayed in their place in SJPP more than a decade ago, and still remember it well. Wishing you a wonderful camino, Laurie

Yes, this is the same place. A wonderful, welcome spot to stop.

 

[jdpiguet]

Today in St-Révérien, after 2 short stages.
The road is a little hilly, but no big climb.
The heat is still very strong (almost unbearable for me) past noon.
Yesterday night in a camping, tonight in a gite of les amis de St-Jacques, funny: it's an old post office.

Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

 

[Mournes]

I agree with Purky's comment.This is a beautiful route with excellent gîtes.I walked it in 2012 and again this year in June/July.I stayed in the gîtes already mentioned by Jacques-D.As Jacques said the gîte in St Reverien is now in the former Post Office building.It is a large house bright and airy with a large back garden.The hospitalier ,Gérard ,is a lovely man .Breakfast is provided but no evening meal.There are no shops in the village but Gérard has created in the kitchen a super little mini- market with everything you need to make a tasty meal.
He has meticulously labelled and priced everything.There were 7 of us in the gite that night from 5 countries,Holland, France,Germany ,Canada and Ireland.
The next town is Premery and just on the way in 2 pilgrims have just recently opened a gîte called Un Pas à La Fois ,One Step At A Time.They met on the Camino some years ago and were married earlier
this year.She is French and he is from Québec.It is a wonderful place to stay and we had a delicious meal with lots of good wine.Payment is by donation.
There are so many great gîtes on this route I could go on forever!

 

[jdpiguet]

As @Mournes mentioned, there is new, very friendly, gîte just before Prémery. I was there yesterday (35 °C again!). It is small, but very nicely organized and very well equipped. The evening meal, cooked by Chantal, was copious and delicious.
Denis said that there will be rooms next year, as well as 2 bicycles to allow the pilgrims to go to the village for shopping!
I can only recommend it!
Today, I'm in Guérigny, in the communal gîte, one of the smallest I ever see: 4 beds only, but fully equipped kitchen.
The pharmacy is 50m away and the supermarket 200m: what do you want more?
The temperature is finally coming down, so I will be able to make longer stages.

Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

 

[Purky]

Good to hear that finding affordable accommodation between Saint Révérien and Nevers is getting easier. When I walked in april 2016, the camping municipal in Prémery was not open and there was nothing yet in Guérigny.

 

[MarkL]

Just started this morning from Vézelay: there is a music festival this weekend, so no service in the basilica, but a really nice mass in la Cordell.
Finally started around 9:30, way to late for the 35°C which are hitting the region...
But now in the "L'esprit du Chemin", the best albergue in the world
Will try to update regularly...

Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

I had the opportunity to do the northern route from Vezelay to Marsac this past July (2017). It was beautiful and solitary. Forests, fields, villages, cities. I loved it. Bon Route!!

 

[jdpiguet]

Just arrived in Charenton-du-Cher, after stops in Nevers and Grossouvre.
The way is quite varied with parts in forest or fields, but a good part is on hard roads, even if they are almost without traffic.
Today was a long one, 36 km, all along the old, unused any more "Canal du Berry". It was a canal for small boats, less than 3m wide and 27m long. It is a very nice walk, along the water, almost all green path. A lot of fisherman, waiting patiently for the fishes... They have always time for a small talk!
Weather is almost perfect 15-25°C, a little cloudy and 2 quick showers today: life is good on the way!

Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

 

[jdpiguet]

Now in la Souterraine, the department of la Creuse is reflecting his name:there is a lot of up and down. The nature is really nice and much more varied on the south way than on the north one: still a lot of green, various flowers and lot of birds.
I'm still very lucky with the weather, cold and dry.
A big difference with the CF or the Puy way: it's really necessary to plan 1 or 2 days in advance and call for reservation: most of the gîtes are really small: 4-6 beds only.

Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

 

[jdpiguet]

I hate suburbs! even more when rain is pouring down! So yesterday, going out of Limoges, was an awfull walk. The city itself is quite nice, the visit of the cathedral, driven by a volunteer, very informative. The museum, on the place in front of it, has a wonderful enamel collection!
Now I'm just arrived in Flavignac, nice refuge with 4 beds, waiting for the shop to open and another announced pilgrim to come in, as there is only one key...
That's the Vézelay way!

Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

 

[jdpiguet]

Done!
Just arrived in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port...
41 days, 11 rainy and 5 with very dense fog in the morning.
The Vézelay route has confirmed:
- It's a lonely way: I met 15 pilgrim only.
- There is a lot of tarmac, more than 80%.
- You go through very different landscapes
- You must be ready for very different hostages: from private person to gite with hospitalier, through small municipal with a cabinet full of food and a box for the money...
- It's a must to plan 2-3 days ahead and to inform that you are coming: some places will open just for you, or the key must be organized via the mairie (which is closed Sat. and Sun.)
But it was a really enjoyable Camino.
Now a rest day and I will continue to Valcarlos.
Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

 

[domigee]

Just discovered this thread @jdpiguet ,thank you so much for sharing. Well done on your achievement!

After many nights spent planning a version 2 of the VF for next Summer (with variants) I suddenly thought 'noooooo' and ... somehow the Vezelay route came to mind. Why, I have no idea! So I came on here to have some of your feedbacks.
Sounds good to me from what I have read so far! I have just ordered the guidebook

 

[MarkL]

Just discovered this thread @jdpiguet ,thank you so much for sharing. Well done on your achievement!

After many nights spent planning a version 2 of the VF for next Summer (with variants) I suddenly thought 'noooooo' and ... somehow the Vezelay route came to mind. Why, I have no idea! So I came on here to have some of your feedbacks.
Sounds good to me from what I have read so far! I have just ordered the guidebook

Solitude. Variable landscape. I loved the 14 days I did from Vezelay to Marsac along the northern route. Not for everyone. Worked great for me.

 

[MarkL]

Done!
Just arrived in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port...
41 days, 11 rainy and 5 with very dense fog in the morning.
The Vézelay route has confirmed:
- It's a lonely way: I met 15 pilgrim only.
- There is a lot of tarmac, more than 80%.
- You go through very different landscapes
- You must be ready for very different hostages: from private person to gite with hospitalier, through small municipal with a cabinet full of food and a box for the money...
- It's a must to plan 2-3 days ahead and to inform that you are coming: some places will open just for you, or the key must be organized via the mairie (which is closed Sat. and Sun.)
But it was a really enjoyable Camino.
Now a rest day and I will continue to Valcarlos.
Buen Camino, Jacques-D.

1. Yes. Solitude dominates. Plenty of reflection time.
2. Tarmac can be addressed often with walking along the dirt next to the road. Not a huge amount of busy road. Lots of quiet country roads.
3. Yes. Lots of different landscapes.
4. Lots of variability with places to stay. You must be flexible and roll with the day.
5. I called one day in advanced and it was fine. When I got no reply the day before, I either showed up with no problem there or I found another place. Again, flexibility is important.

Glad to hear of your enjoyment!

 

[LesBrass]

J... somehow the Vezelay route came to mind...

Oh! I could maybe offer lodgings near St Astier

 

[domigee]

Oh! I could maybe offer lodgings near St Astier

T'is but a small world!

 

[froglet47]

I have decided to do the first part of the Via Lemovicemsis and have the guide book - a god start. When I walked from Chartres to Dax about 5 years ago, I found my little backpacking tent was very useful. I am debating wether to carry tent, sleeping bag and sleeping mat (about 3.5kg total weight) and no cooking equipment, or trust that I may find places to stay. I am 71 this year and my pace will be steady but days will be short! (I can't believe that I have just written that!)

 

[domigee]

I have decided to do the first part of the Via Lemovicemsis and have the guide book - a god start. When I walked from Chartres to Dax about 5 years ago, I found my little backpacking tent was very useful. I am debating wether to carry tent, sleeping bag and sleeping mat (about 3.5kg total weight) and no cooking equipment, or trust that I may find places to stay. I am 71 this year and my pace will be steady but days will be short! (I can't believe that I have just written that!)

Hi froglet and welcome! When are you planning to walk? (You mention short days...)
I'm hoping to do it without my tent(next Summer) ... We'll see, planning still in very early stages!

 

[froglet47]

Hi domigee, I thought maybe the middle of April after the Easter rush! Short days refer to the distance that I will probably travel. Maximum 20 km per day...but who knows, with the wind behind me!!