- Time of past OR future Camino
- Oct/Nov 2022_Mozarabe from Almeria
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Lovley report, Annie. The washing line reminds me of the one in Estella. Close encounters could have been the name of that albergue! I will look forward to your reports, thank you.Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.
A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.
There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.
There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.
The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.
Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!
Good place to start!Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.
What a change. I first stayed in Tábara in 2013 when there was no hositalero and only bunk beds. Someone came in the evening to collect €5. Then Jose Almeida (not Pepe) took over and made it into a traditional donativo with communal dinner and breakfast. I helped him out a few days in 2014.A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.
Oh yes, I remember the chupitos with Jose, deadly after a long days walk in the heat.There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.
Music is also a new addition!There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.
Buen Camino Annie!The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.
Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!
Yes Paul - correct. Time wise in 2019 - I had my last night in Tábara and caught bus back to enjoy a final night in Zamora before heading back to Madrid and home to Oz.restart from Tábara. Is that where you ended the last chapter of this Camino?
Big difference! (0-9). I try to use card where possible and hope to limit my cash withdrawals to minimum.numerous ATMs if you need to get some cash. Try all of them as the charge for the transaction ranges from 9 Euro to nothing.
I've never stopped in Rionegro but everyone who has raves about the food, the chef and the ambiance.Sleep well Annie but please tell us later all about " Me gusta comer". One of my main reasons to walk the Sanabrés in the future....
I stayed in Rionegro, found a dead mouse in the albergue, and didn’t know anything about Me Gusta Comer (but it was in 2010 so maybe it hadn’t yet opened). Seems like I should get back there.I've never stopped in Rionegro but everyone who has raves about the food, the chef and the ambiance.
I posted a thread a long time ago about what I thought to be an obscure restaurant in a small town, and was amazed at the responses it generated.I've never stopped in Rionegro but everyone who has raves about the food, the chef and the ambiance.
Sounds all good Annie. Ultreia!
Hi Annie! Great to see that you are on the road again! I leave Oz on Monday for Vigo and then Finisterre/ Muxia (I missed Muxia last time with Laurie as I had tendonitis) I'm double boosted but I am not sure if I have to get a negative COVID test to enter Spain- I can't seem to find any info on the Health website- Did you take a test before you left!Note from the mods: In case you missed it, OzAnnie has finished her Levante in Zamora, hopped up to Tábara and is restarting the Sanabrés. For her report on her Levante from after Ávila, check out this thread.
Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.
A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.
There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.
There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.
The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.
Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!
AnnieHi Annie! Great to see that you are on the road again! I leave Oz on Monday for Vigo and then Finisterre/ Muxia (I missed Muxia last time with Laurie as I had tendonitis) I'm double boosted but I am not sure if I have to get a negative COVID test to enter Spain- I can't seem to find any info on the Health website- Did you take a test before you left!
Thanks Annie! Hope our paths cross sometime. Buen Camino!Annie
We don’t need a pcr test or Covid test to enter spain. But… do look up /check latest (I don’t want to steer you wrong and I’ve been here more than 2 weeks ) but you DID need to complete (then ) the Spanish Health form.
The link is on the forum. You need a QR health entry code if you are entering spain from Australia. ( not if you are entering spain on foot ).
Buen. Camino Annie.
Hi Annie. Is this your current thread Forgive me, I am confused. Allowed for a senior, no?Annie
We don’t need a pcr test or Covid test to enter spain. But… do look up /check latest (I don’t want to steer you wrong and I’ve been here more than 2 weeks ) but you DID need to complete (then ) the Spanish Health form.
The link is on the forum. You need a QR health entry code if you are entering spain from Australia. ( not if you are entering spain on foot ).
Buen. Camino Annie.
Thankyou @kirkieHi Annie. Is this your current thread Forgive me, I am confused. Allowed for a senior, no?
Main point: that you may walk serenely. I might manage that myself for a few days late July...before a spell of duty in Zabaldika. Depends on a number of imponderables at this stage.
Hi Annie, I am praying to be able to do one more walk, most likely the last (never say never) only have a month to be away so I thought I may start in Burgos and visit so many friends etc but always a Camino but being my last I want to be surprised each and every day like in 2013 (my first) so I though I would go Madrid to Salamanca and walk from there via Sanabres. I would love to hear about the Albergues and number of pilgrims I may encounter I walked part of the Levante and enjoyed the solitude, if you could share your walk I would appreciate ta TrevorNote from the mods: In case you missed it, OzAnnie has finished her Levante in Zamora, hopped up to Tábara and is restarting the Sanabrés. For her report on her Levante from after Ávila, check out this thread.
Hi - good to be back on the Sanabrés.
Just walked into Zamora 6 May 2022 - a ‘not to be missed’ stop. But … having set myself up with dates !!! I took care of some post of items to Santiago and then a bus at 1.30pm to restart my 2019 Vdlp from Tábara.
A cosy place. Last time I stayed at the hostal El Roble but reading many posts since - I heard that the donativo albergue here was a real experience.
It is / was great. Such a really ‘warm’ welcome. You are welcomed at the dining table. Offered a drink ., juice . chorizo.. chat. Then sign in. Very relaxed.
They are currently almost finished new showers and bathrooms where the 2 dormitories are. Right now though ….there are no doors fitted (I’m sure it won’t be long). … so a work in progress — they advised okay to use new toilets and washbasins but showers not finished yet. Separate ones male and female. Nicely tiled.
So in the original section there are 2 toilets with doors .. m & f. and only one shower for everyone to use. But soon that won’t be a problem.
There were 2 hospitaleros welcoming us. I believe Pepe has been there for a long time. The other one Jose Luis told me he had been there for 5 days and lives in Madrid. They are both so hospitable.
I washed my own stuff but they will do the laundry for you at 5pm (the stuff you wore today). The dinner at 8pm was terrific. First vegetable soup. Mmmmmm.. tasted as good as it smelled. Then a really tasty paella with morcilla. I don’t usually order paella but no one left any on their plates !!!!
Then a creamy custard type dessert in a glass. Followed by ‘shots ‘. Pepe has 4 different liquors to choose from. I really enjoyed the herbal one which is made by Pepe.
There were approx 13 or 14 staying there. 2 bicigrinos (husband and wife feo. Germany ) - I didn’t take photos of the communal meal.
Earlier after checking in … I wandered downtown and found wifi in a bar. There is a tienda in town - to buy things for the next day ..
At dinner Pepe (in a fatherly manner) explained the walk ahead of us the following day - and asked us for a majority decision on breakfast time. 7am was chosen. He said he would play classical music at 6.45am to prepare any heavy sleepers.
The usual Spanish breakfast set us up for the walk ahead.
Ps no mention was made of the donativo box by the Hospitaleros . It is in the wall as you enter or leave. !!!!!!
Take care Annie!Thankyou @kirkie
This is my current (sort of dead) live thread. I will catch up but for those who have walked the Sanabrés, they may understand more so, why I haven’t had the energy to post here. Also developed a bacterial infection around 4 days ago /lost my voice too for 2 days but have managed to keep up ….. it’s been a lot of climbing . Am in Laza tonight.
Good luck for your spell of duty in Zabaldika in July.
Annie
Get better, Annie. Stop. Then start when ready. Nothing happens for nothing.Thankyou @kirkie
This is my current (sort of dead) live thread. I will catch up but for those who have walked the Sanabrés, they may understand more so, why I haven’t had the energy to post here. Also developed a bacterial infection around 4 days ago /lost my voice too for 2 days but have managed to keep up ….. it’s been a lot of climbing . Am in Laza tonight.
Good luck for your spell of duty in Zabaldika in July.
Annie
Hi, Annie,Also developed a bacterial infection around 4 days ago /lost my voice too for 2 days but have managed to keep up ….. it’s been a lot of climbing . Am in Laza tonight.
Thanks for your update and information about Vilar de Barrio. I am in the cracking new Albergue in A Gudina tonight and was thinking about staying in Vilar on Tuesday….which now looks good. Thanks againI promise that as soon as I have decent internet I will update with details and pics.
I must say though that tonight was wonderful .. I was chatting to a Irish gentleman whilst having a drink in the afternoon and he asked if I by chance was OzAnnie. He is another forum member @An Tincéir
but we can call him John.
Later this evening , he found a few of us across the road from the albergue (Vilar de Barrio) at an older establishment… the owner is Carmiña . She is a character too. I had the luck to be welcomed by her at 12pm today on arrival. The albergue here doesn’t open until 1pm.
Edit: I see Gerald Kelly’s notes mention Carmiña’s place. She is a dear.
Note too: that it was the only place to get any food in the evening. There are other places around but none were serving food.
The albergue at volar de Barrio closes at 10pm so there were some there rushing their dinner to get back in time (it is virtually across the street from the albergue. / Casa Camiña )
Albergue in Vilar de barrio is as clean as a whistle. 2 dorms identical .. separate male and female bathrooms. Shower water is ‘hot’. Great.Thanks for your update and information about Vilar de Barrio. I am in the cracking new Albergue in A Gudina tonight and was thinking about staying in Vilar on Tuesday….which now looks good. Thanks again
Oh, so glad to hear that it’s open again! (I sent a note to Gronze to ask them to put it back on). I slept here many years ago, and Irene was the owner. She was a young widow and had a very sad life story, but was determined to keep going. She got a lot of pleasure from the house and her garden. Then I learned she was very ill and died. Gronze doesn’t list the house so I thought it was still closed. So nice to see that the new owners have kept Irene’s name!I booked at Casa Irene.. really nice …
I’m heading off now - sunday 7.30am from A Pousa / I’ll add notes on yesterday later. But I’ll try to find this riverside walk entry … and report back.And don’t forget the riverside walk into Ourense, avoiding the industrial outskirts slog! Just turn left at the Peugeot building!
Im really feeling for you ! I hope your feet problems are solved soonCan you tell from my endless “helpful hints” that I am homebound and chomping at the bit to walk?! Post pics when you can! Laurie
Great surprise !! You look alike @MickMacLay off the wine and chips, is that the Aussie staple diet ?
Met the brother in Ponferrada 3rd May he was totally unaware I was going.
From that pic coming into Campobecerros- it was a switch back Type sort of paved path down to the pueblo. There are many places you need to watch where you place your feet with top gravel etc. It would only take one wrong placement !!Loving your posts and pictures, Annie! Is the descent to Campobecerros still a treacherous slip and slide experience over loose shale? I was undere the impression that the construction of the AVE might have produced a re-routing, which would be nice.
And just to say that Gronze put Casa Irene in Lubián back up about 1 hour after I wrote to them. I’m so glad you mentioned it, because it is a very nice spot.
Tossing up whether to just do some slow walking and take time out to Muxia and then Finisterra; or follow in @ebrandt ‘s tracks and walk some Vasco del interior. I’m following her blog. So many choices. Muxia looks good thoughOh, no, Annie, you are now officially on the home stretch! Are you heading to Muxia from Santiago? I remember that is where we first met in person years ago!
Easy mistake to make @peregrina2000 … I didn’t label all the pics. Casa mañosa in Cea is actually tucked away in between old stone buildings. The owner was waiting on the street for me to arrive (I’d have been searching !) I had called 2 hrs earlier to let him know when I’d likely arrive. The pics show only 2 of the interior.Your place in Cea looks so nice, but then I am a real sucker for old stone houses with lots of green grass all around.
Forge ahead, amiga!
Hi MichaelHi (again) Annie - sort of came to this series of post late. Did you start in Sevilla or somewhere further up the track??
You’re always a reliable peregrina with ideas @VNwalkingVasco? Did someone say Vasco??
It is a beautiful walk. If you wanted a short taste, you could take the train from Santiago to Tolosa (direct, it leaves in the morning) and walk from there to Vitoria, Miranda de Ebro, or Haro - all have good train connections. 3 days to Vitoria; then choice: either 3 more to Haro or 2 more to MdE (3 to Pancorbo, a wonderful walk from MdE, but not sure if you could get the train from there).
Hi Annie - thanks. I went back to your first post May7 and read the opening comments. Enjoy the last 3 or 4 days. CheersHi Michael
Unless you’re a fast walker, the Vdlp/Sanabrés can take quite a while. I started in Sevilla in April2019…got as far as Tábara on Sanabrés, then had to leave for my flight back home.
This year 2022… I’ve picked it up at Tábara (on Sanabrés)
Now I’m on the final stages and it’s all got that familiar ‘coming home’ feeling.
The middle section of the Sanabrés (over/through the high part of the mountains) (around 4 or so days) was quite taxing for me, as I’d planned longer stages than I should have.
Buen camino
Hi AnnieAnnie
We don’t need a pcr test or Covid test to enter spain. But… do look up /check latest (I don’t want to steer you wrong and I’ve been here more than 2 weeks ) but you DID need to complete (then ) the Spanish Health form.
The link is on the forum. You need a QR health entry code if you are entering spain from Australia. ( not if you are entering spain on foot ).
Buen. Camino Annie.
Yes. Booked into San Martín for 20th.Hi Annie
Arrived Barcelona today! It’s lovely to be back! Starting from Vigo on 24th but in Santiago on 20th - 22nd. Will you be around?
Yes!You’re always a reliable peregrina with ideas @VNwalking
Are you describing the same route that Liz & Tom are on right now ? (Vasco del interior )…
Well, I went looking and it seems the more direct train I took to Irun (which stopped in Tolosa) no longer runs. This was the best I could find, about the same as the bus along the Norte, with long connections.Is that train to Tolosa more direct than a slow bus north from Santiago and along the ‘top’ to irun ?
It does indeed. But if you just wanted a taste, getting a jump on the start allows more of the goodies.I was thinking the Vasco started from irun ?
Bandeira: Do NOT miss the café-pastelería Dulce Deza. The best cafetería in the northern hemisphere. This time they gave me a pastry that I never had tasted before. It was the best thing I ever had. Softer than croissant, cream inside but more buttery than in a napolitana, and a white powder on top... Ah! I wish I had taken a photo of it so I could ask you if you know what it is called! But it ended up in my stomach all too soon. That cafetería deserves a pilgrimage on its own! It now dawns upon me that Dulce Desa is also in Silleda, right next to Hostal Toxa (not Hostal Toxic). Next time in Silleda, I will investigate if they keep the same standard there.
Ha ha. The stuffed dummies. Not sure what they represent. But.. I too noticed the huge ears on one (that you likened to a royal relationshipGreat pic's Annie looks a lonely trail, loved the pic in bar with what looks like two women with masks and hats is one of them related to Prince Charles.
These are parts of Spain few see and will never walk.
Enjoy the rest of your Camino.
Just reading Bad pilgrims note about a shop in Silleda also. I’ve already had my wandering around Silleda … I wouldn’t expect it to be open when I leave in the morning but thanks for the ‘ahoy there’ in respect to Bandeiras. I will definitely be ready for one then. Sounds like something I’d like for sure. !!Do please stop for pastries in Bandeiras, and eat some for us!
Beautiful story of the Camino!Her stamp reads ‘Firca Arduriras- Camino De Santiago’. She has a lot to look after / she showed me her Bodega with her prizes in there of her own 4 caminos. (Her casa is pic 2 and 8)
She also works in the policía. So a busy woman.
Hi Annie - I’m off to Vigo tomorrow morning. Are you around tonight, I’m in S Martin PinarioYes. Booked into San Martín for 20th.
They only had that date available.
I have bookings for 2 more days in sdc (21 and 22 different hotels) but still in Santiago. We will find each other for sure.
Annie. Enjoy Barcelona - love it there.
Ahhh... these chance moments that lead to lovely unexpected experiences! Just catching up on your posts this morning Annie. Enjoying your stories and photos tremendously!So about 5-6klms from Ponte Ulla .. I saw a local lady near a wood cutting place and asked if there were any places before Ponte Ulla. I showed her my credencial and explained. Her eyes lit up !! She said: Ah. ! I have a sello. Come with me. So into her car (50m away was her home ).
Sent pms. Annie. XxHi Annie - I’m off to Vigo tomorrow morning. Are you around tonight, I’m in S Martin Pinario
AHHHH, wasn’t I there the last time you two met? If I could figure out how to treat you to a glass of wine in the Costa Vella garden, I would! Send pics!Sent pms. Annie. Xx
I met Annie thru you Laurie. You both walked the Norte. We enjoyed chats and drinks at Costa Vella as your great memory recalls.AHHHH, wasn’t I there the last time you two met? If I could figure out how to treat you to a glass of wine in the Costa Vella garden, I would! Send pics!
I had a great evening with Annie,Les & Mike - thanks guys for including me! Would have been amazing if you could have been there too Laurie! Maybe next year? I have a couple of Caminos planned- possibly May & Oct -will our paths cross? xxI met Annie thru you Laurie. You both walked the Norte. We enjoyed chats and drinks at Costa Vella as your great memory recalls.
I will update the last day into sdc when I can - it’s very late now. Letting you know @aussieannie managed to meet up with myself and some others here. We had a great night. So glad we managed it. She said she’d bumped into @Anniesantiago in the lift in SMP too. !! AussieAnnie is off walking another camino tomorrow. She’s amazing. We won’t mention numbers and ages but wow. (Use it or lose it comes to mind ).re pics - Les (my UK friend from 2014 Norte took some / He will WhatsApp them when he can.
X
It can be very busy catching up.
Earlier in the day I was introduced to Johnny Walker where I met up with Tom in person ( @t2andreo ).. we had lots of mutual acquaintances and stories to keep us entertained for a few hrs.
Ah, the Costa Vella garden, thanks for that picture, Annie. Love the one of you on the rocks in Muxia.
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