- Time of past OR future Camino
- First one in 1977 by train. Many since then by foot. Next one ASAP.
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Corunna was a horrible slaughter as troops and their supply supports tried to retreat.
I’d be interested in seeing some of these memorial monuments.
I don’t think there’s a memorial there- at least I didn’t see one- but from memory there was a battle in that war at Cacabelos. Apparently at the crossroads on the way out of town towards Villafranca. The vineyards around Valtuille were among my favourites of the entire walk. I also love the Bierzo wine they produce.On my 2021 Camino Frances I saw something I had not seen on my several previous passages through Astorga.
Leaving the Plaza Cathedral one fine September morning, headed for the Puerto Obispo, I saw a fairly large monumental slab attached to a home on my right. Upon examination I found it to be a memorial, presented in both English and Castilian, to the Peninsular War British General Sir John Moore (and his men): "En Esta Casa Se Alojo Sir John Moore."
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Now, seeing that made me realize that I couldn't name more than one other Peninsular War memorial on the Frances (the lion monument in the Plaza Santocildes in Astorga). Surely there are others!?
There was indeed a nasty little battle fought at Cacabelos! Notable, as I recall w/o researching it, for the fact that a British rifleman shot across the river and killed at extreme range the French commander! Genuine Sharpe TV stuff! No memorial in Cacabelos that I know of....I don’t think there’s a memorial there- at least I didn’t see one- but from memory there was a battle in that war at Cacabelos.
Hello Jeffery,There was indeed a nasty little battle fought at Cacabelos! Notable, as I recall w/o researching it, for the fact that a British rifleman shot across the river and killed at extreme range the French commander! Genuine Sharpe TV stuff! No memorial in Cacabelos that I know of....
The Peninsular War ravaged the Camino Frances from start to finish. For example ----- the famed medieval royal tombs at the S. Isidoro Pantheon in Leon, about which so much is made, are all in fact empty because French soldiers dumped the royal remains into the streets. They try not to tell you that at S. Isidoro.. ... Another example ---- Sir John Moore's angry and tired retreating troops got out of control at Villafranca del Bierzo a few days after the Cacabelos battle and gave the town a truly awful taste of raping, looting and pillaging. No memorial there either, for obvious reasons!
There is a memorial in the grounds of Burgos Castle, which Wellington besieged unsuccessfully.On my 2021 Camino Frances I saw something I had not seen on my several previous passages through Astorga.
Leaving the Plaza Cathedral one fine September morning, headed for the Puerto Obispo, I saw a fairly large monumental slab attached to a home on my right. Upon examination I found it to be a memorial, presented in both English and Castilian, to the Peninsular War British General Sir John Moore (and his men): "En Esta Casa Se Alojo Sir John Moore."
View attachment 129660
Now, seeing that made me realize that I couldn't name more than one other Peninsular War memorial on the Frances (the lion monument in the Plaza Santocildes in Astorga). Surely there are others!?
Was there last week, currently closed with work going on. No dates for when it reopensAfter one of our Caminos we took a trip to A Coruña to see the Tower of Hercules. The taxi driver from the bus station took us on a detour to the grave of Sir John Moore, stopped his 'clock' and gave us free time to visit the grave. A worthwhile visit if others are aware of it. The grave is in what is now a park.
Having walked the Primitivo one can only marvel at the success of evacuating his troops in the dead of winter over the mountains. The 'Dunkirk' of the Peninsular Wars.
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No memorial in Cacabelos that I know of....
Not a memorial but the military museum in Burgos has a section about the Peninsular Wars. When we visited the person on the desk spoke English and explained happened in Burgos and how it impacted the layout of the town . There are also various info boards around the castle if I remember rightly.
There is also an excellent doner kebob shop on the corner just to the left of the monument.Here's my 2019 pic of the other Peninsular War memorial in Astorga. It honors the Leonese soldiers (i.e., the local boys) who fought against Napoleon. It depicts a great lion towering over a fallen eagle. It is in the lovely Plaza Santocildes.
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As a history buff I thank you for this. I'll keep my eyes open when next in Astorga. There are likely other famous/infamous sites along the way.On my 2021 Camino Frances I saw something I had not seen on my several previous passages through Astorga.
Leaving the Plaza Cathedral one fine September morning, headed for the Puerto Obispo, I saw a fairly large monumental slab attached to a home on my right. Upon examination I found it to be a memorial, presented in both English and Castilian, to the Peninsular War British General Sir John Moore (and his men): "En Esta Casa Se Alojo Sir John Moore."
View attachment 129660
Now, seeing that made me realize that I couldn't name more than one other Peninsular War memorial on the Frances (the lion monument in the Plaza Santocildes in Astorga). Surely there are others!?
Badajoz was similarly brutally put to the sack by the British army under Wellington several years later. No Camino link there though, just a tragic repetition.There was indeed a nasty little battle fought at Cacabelos! Notable, as I recall w/o researching it, for the fact that a British rifleman shot across the river and killed at extreme range the French commander! Genuine Sharpe TV stuff! No memorial in Cacabelos that I know of....
The Peninsular War ravaged the Camino Frances from start to finish. For example ----- the famed medieval royal tombs at the S. Isidoro Pantheon in Leon, about which so much is made, are all in fact empty because French soldiers dumped the royal remains into the streets. They try not to tell you that at S. Isidoro.. ... Another example ---- Sir John Moore's angry and tired retreating troops got out of control at Villafranca del Bierzo a few days after the Cacabelos battle and gave the town a truly awful taste of raping, looting and pillaging. No memorial there either, for obvious reasons!
Excellent observation! I hadn't thought of it that way.I think Spaniards have seen so much war over so much time they're kinda sick of it. They do, however, like putting up memorials to individual men. You see lots of those,
Every time I passed through Sahagun I wondered where the battle had been fought. I assumed for some reason that it had been fought south of the town. But your post sent me flying to my maps and you're absolutely right! Next time I cross that little bridge by the chapel I'll lift a glass to you! .... It was after the battle of Sahagun that Sir John Moore's expeditionary force began its heroic and harrowing retreat to Corunna.there was also a fierce little battle just outside Sahagun, around the Chapel of Our Lady of the Bridge. The Camino into town makes a little dog-leg there, and sends the hiker right past the door. S
I learnt on returning home,this was an impromptu rear guard action fought on a very narrow front - the bridge itself - on the western outskirts of the town. Short and sharp.And there must be something in Cacabelos!
there was also a fierce little battle just outside Sahagun, around the Chapel of Our Lady of the Bridge. The Camino into town makes a little dog-leg there, and sends the hiker right past the door. Several years ago, a group of historic re-enacters recreated the motions of the battle, complete with mud and wiry little horses. There is no memorial.
Not sure an intertribal skirmish in NZ is a good comparison let alone relevant but you may wish to do a bit of research on the origins of this haka. As with most things in our fair land having to rely on oral traditions results in multiple derivatives.PS:
Ka mate, ka ora (tis death, tis life) was composed about this time far, far away from Cacabelos, but following a similar skirmish (sans chevaux).
@Blister Bill, kia ora and not quite clear what is in your mind.but you may wish to do a bit of research on the origins of this haka.
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