Planning for a great meal in País Vasco

the most fabulous meal I ever had in Pais Vasco was in the kitchen of a friend whose wife made a three-course meal from several handfuls of mussels, three lirio fishes, six eggs, a quart of milk, a loaf of bread, and a bunch of spices and staples. In about 45 minutes.
I do not know the names of the dishes, but I know it was magic.
I am privileged.

Another sort of indulgence would be a visit to one of the big Basque cider houses. The food is usually simple but hearty stuff and the cider is excellent. The whole business of aerating the cider by catching it in a glass is great fun. Overall a fun way to spend an evening!

While living in Biarritz I took numerous culinary road trips.
Hands down a tapas crawl in San Sebastian is an incomparable dining experience on an afternoon out, there is no place like it in the world. I will also shout out a shameless plug for some of the bars in Biarritz and St. Jean de Luz which are close seconds.
I have eaten at Arzak in San Sebastian twice and Mugaritz in Errenteria once, their tasting menus are as close to food heaven as anyone can find. Elena Arzak spends a wonderful afternoon conversing and explaining their creations with the patrons.
There was another 4 star restaurant near Durango where I did a tasting menu for 2 consecutive days several years ago which unfortunately is now closed. No wonder, imagine driving 2 hours+ from Bilbao or San Sebastain for a tasting Menu del Dia with no place to spend the night.
During my visit to Durango, I learned, like Guernica, it was also bombed by Hitler on a market day during WWII.
Laurie's mention of the restaurant in Amorebieto-Etxano, reminds me that this is the starting point of Stage 3 of the Tour de France in 2023. The finishing point of that stage is yet to be announced other than it will be in France. Could that day's route somehow parallel parts of the Camino and end in Saint Jean Pied de Port, Biarritz or Bayonne, stay tuned!

peregrina2000 said:

Don, were any of these restaurants the ones that were into what I would describe as “foam cuisine” (I’m sure that’s not the right word, burecent articlet I hope you know what I mean)? I think maybe the word “molecular“ was in the name. I never could understand why people would want to eat foam rather than real food, but I’m sure I’m missing something. Does anyone know if it is still popular?

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Laurie,
For more on molecular gastronomy in Spain check our this recent article.

peregrina2000 said:

Don, were any of these restaurants the ones that were into what I would describe as “foam cuisine” (I’m sure that’s not the right word, but I hope you know what I mean)? I think maybe the word “molecular“ was in the name. I never could understand why people would want to eat foam rather than real food, but I’m sure I’m missing something. Does anyone know if it is still popular?

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The words are "molecular gastronomy." Basque cuisine seems to concentrate on the purity of the origins of the products they use and blending tastes and flavors without sauces like one would find in France. (I am sure a true gourmand will dispute this or come up with a better definition.) My point being when you eat tapas it is a combination of natural flavors and most Basque cuisine follows this lead.
The champion of molecular gastronomy was Ferran Adrai at El Bulli. I had a tasting menu there in 2011 and met him. It was days before he closed his restuarant. What an experience! I dined there for 4+ hours. I have had tidbits of molecular gastronomy at Joel Robuchon's in Paris but I think it is becoming a lost art.

peregrina2000 said:

Don, were any of these restaurants the ones that were into what I would describe as “foam cuisine” (I’m sure that’s not the right word, but I hope you know what I mean)? I think maybe the word “molecular“ was in the name. I never could understand why people would want to eat foam rather than real food, but I’m sure I’m missing something. Does anyone know if it is still popular?

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It’s just a totally different experience.

In the small Cumbrian village where I live there’s an exceptional 3* restaurant which only serves a 17 course tasting menu, which is a master class in artistry; taste and texture.

It takes so long to get through the menu that I’m sure you’ve already exhausted the calories from the first half of the menu by the time you’ve finished. I see it more as a demonstration of culinary skill than ‘a good meal’. It’s a welcome addition to our small community; but the locals often head home for a ‘proper meal’ when they leave.