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Thanks -- I thought it worked out great to have a short day to Torre Vilarino -- Plenty of time to walk the loop and go to the museum. If we are close to our planned schedule (big if with usThese look great! Hoping you don‘t hit Torre Vilariño on a Monday, like I did. I was able to walk the loop of course, but the museum was closed. The gate onto the grounds was open, so I was able to walk up to the prehistoric castro and see another pretty Miño view, but I would have loved to see the museum.
And IMO, it is well worth the extra few euros to get the non-pilgrim menú del día at Torre Vilariño. Actually I can’t remember if it’s just two menú del día choices or if one of them is labeled menú del peregrino. But in any case, go for the pricier one, IMHO. Such a lovely lovely place!
2. Villavieja to Las Medulas @11.7 km (I am walking with a metallurgist so we need plenty of time to explore Law Medulas!
is Torre Vilarino something we should book in advance as there appear to be only 9 rooms (especially since we may be there on a weekend)?
Good idea -- I will report back on pilgrim prices! Also, I just saw a place on Air BnB in Fion -- a room in a hotel hosted by Susana. Its could be a possibiliy and the reservation can be cancelled up til a couple days before. If push came to shove, we also could stay in Escairon (its a short day so the 3.4 km off the camino would not be a big deal at all. I just want to make sure that we can get something in under 30 km as walking 35 km is just not an option on my ankle.I would WhatsApp them and ask about Pilgrim prices. You are right that weekends are likely to be more in demand, but it’s not really high season yet.
I stayed in Borrenes, which made for an even shorter day. Highly recomnended, but I guess a bit of a slog from Molinaseca.1. Molinaseca to Villavieja @22
12. Lalin to Banderia @22.8 km
I walked Lalin-Silleda-Ponte Ulla13. Banderia to Outiero @17.5
I always defer to Laurie, but have a different take about this (eek!). I considered this alternative route, but honestly was very glad not to have gone that way. Going via the village first allows you to check out the museum right at the outset, which gives a lot of information. Then later you can go up to Orellán without any weight on your back and legs. It's steep up and steep down.I know you are a very thorough researcher, so you have probably already seen this, but have you thought about the alternative from Borrenes? It takes you directly up to the Mirador de Orellán, which in your case would then allow your metallurgist to spend the afternoon down below going to the two museums and actually poking around the weird formations themselves. The view from Orellán is unmissable, that’s for sure. And you can also visit an actual gallery at a spot very close to the mirador. Which I imagine would be high on a mettalurgist’s list.
I’ve done this too, and it works fine. I first went to the museum at the entrance to town (across from the not highly recommended Hotel Medulio), then dropped off my pack in the Agoga. Walking up to the mirador without the pack is a real treat, especially since you go through some beautiful chestnut groves. And it is true that the afternoon light from Orellán is superb. So the later the better.I considered this alternative route, but honestly was very glad not to have gone that way. Going via the village first allows you to check out the museum right at the outset, which gives a lot of information. Then later you can go up to Orellán without any weight on your back and legs. It's steep up and steep down.
I have this all scoped out! Thanks. Whether we do it or not depends on how our various joints are doing on hillsI know you are a very thorough researcher, so you have probably already seen this, but have you thought about the alternative from Borrenes? It takes you directly up to the Mirador de Orellán, which in your case would then allow your metallurgist to spend the afternoon down below going to the two museums and actually poking around the weird formations themselves. The view from Orellán is unmissable, that’s for sure. And you can also visit an actual gallery at a spot very close to the mirador. Which I imagine would be high on a mettalurgist’s list.
Again, you’ve probably got this covered, but you don’t need to walk into Penasillás to get to the Vilaseco. I’ve never seen it, but Gronze says it’s 450 m off-route, so I wonder if there is a sign taking you off the camino to get there. I remember @Sara_Dhooma had a bit of confusion getting there, but I think it was also in part because it was dark.9. Torre Vilarino to Hotel/Albergue Vilaseco @21.1km
I would definitely consider it as a different way to split the stages. If it were a Tuesday when most everything in LM is closed, I'd consider staying in the village of Orellán, and staying on top and completely bypassing the village of Las Medulas the next day. I wouldn't recommend that for the first time, though.I would go that way again depending on time of day — for me, starting in Ponferrada, it meant I got to the mirador in the mid afternoon and it was really nice.
Yes. Steep! But beautiful and the pain is short-lived.We somehow got on a LONG route up to Orellán from town. It was many kms of shadeless afternoon sun. I would definitely make sure that you take the steeper route, which is shorter, covered with shade, and full of chestnuts.
A very good idea, I think. I loved rambling around without my pack, and there's plenty to explore. The small lakes out of town created by the mine works are very pretty.so I'll reconsider getting straight to Las Medulas on Day 2 and spending a second night there.
Don't go through Las Medulas on a Tuesday. Almost everything is closed!!!I have been watching the days of the week
So, VN, based on your picture, I am wondering if I misremember that descent to the town of Médulas as going through chestnuts — I’m no tree expert, but I am sure that’s not what your picture shows.Yes. Steep! But beautiful and the pain is short-lived.
Going directly to Orellán adds about 200 m elevation gain. That puts the total elevation gain from Ponferrada to Orellán at about 1100 (roughly a SJPP-Roncesvalles day). I think that if you break up the Ponferrada - Médulas stage at Borrenes or Villavieja you will divide that into two more or less equal days. The forum guide has a good summary of pros and cons that Amancio wrote up.I was planning 3 slow days to get to Las Medulas, but I will re-read all the comments about Orellan above. I do like the idea of doing the steep day without a backpack, so I'll reconsider getting straight to Las Medulas on Day 2 and spending a second night there.
You remember correctly. Those are all chestnuts!So, VN, based on your picture, I am wondering if I misremember that descent to the town of Médulas as going through chestnuts — I’m no tree expert, but I am sure that’s not what your picture shows.
Ha, so I remembered correctly that they were chestnuts but apparently no longer remember what chestnuts look like. But I think I definitely remember what their flowers smell like in springtime.... that pungent tropical sweet flavor is almost as much of a "smell trigger" as the smell of the Madrid metro. Unfortunately I am far from both now!You remember correctly. Those are all chestnuts!
Root sprouts from older trees that are no longer there.
We thought we better not go that far with the elevation gain. We plan to walk from Rabanal to Molinaseca just the day before and that elevation loss is really significant. So we thought discretion was the better part of pain free walkingI stayed in Borrenes, which made for an even shorter day. Highly recomnended, but I guess a bit of a slog from Molinaseca.
I'll check this out. I didn't have a reason for my stages other than spreading out the distances.I walked Lalin-Silleda-Ponte Ulla
I hadn't thought of this -- walking up that elevation without packs seems like a good idea!. Tom is finally focusing on the details of our trip. Usually he lets me putter and plan and then just goes on the ride. But I got him to check out the Las Medulas website. I think he definitely wants to hit the museum first. I had entertained the thought that if we walked via Orellan, we might just continue to Puente Domingo Florez. But I suspect its silly of me to think that I could pry him away from the gold mine site anyway!Going via the village first allows you to check out the museum right at the outset, which gives a lot of information. Then later you can go up to Orellán without any weight on your back and legs. It's steep up and steep down.
You are right that you will be about two weeks ahead of us. We start in Irun on 14 May. I think we will get to the invierno around 11 June-ishI am sneaking along behind you, picking up information and updating my own spreadsheet! The Invierno is currently at the top of my list - for starting around May 20-25, so I'll actually be ahead of you! (Liz - You are in June, right?)
I was thinking of breaking it into 3 stages:Going directly to Orellán adds about 200 m elevation gain. That puts the total elevation gain from Ponferrada to Orellán at about 1100 (roughly a SJPP-Roncesvalles day). I think that if you break up the Ponferrada - Médulas stage at Borrenes or Villavieja you will divide that into two more or less equal days.
The outdoor sites are still available any day, aren't they? Other than the visitor's centre and choices of places to eat, are there other things to do? Presumably the hotel would serve food.Don't go through Las Medulas on a Tuesday. Almost everything is closed!!!
- Ponferrada to Santalia del Bierzo (12 Km)
- Santalia to Borrenes passing by the Castillo (9.5 km)
- Borrenes to Las Medulas via Mirador Orellan (11 km)
I really would hate to do that hill with a pack, and you're not actually bactracking if you walk from Borrenes via the official route. When you do that, one of the first things you pass is the museum. After that, you can stop to drop your pack off in town wherever you stay, continuing on to the mirador. It's not backtracking the way you came, but left of the camino into the bowl made by the mine works (there are plenty of places to walk down there too). It's a natural flow.That "feels" like the right order of things, rather going first to Las Medulas and backtracking to Orellan as a day trip.
About Tuesday in Las Medulas
LOVELY picture from the terrace of Agoga. It was a very pleasant place to sit and relax after the day's walk.The alternative path out of Borreñes up to the mirador involved a rocky descent before crossing the riverbed, then battling through some undergrowth on the tough ascent afterwards.
Yes.The second place, which I can't find now, is, I think, more of a tourist information spot. But additional info would be great.
I wanted to check first with Susana before releasing her phone number on a public forum. She told me the whole world of pilgrims already had the number, so not to worry.I got a quick email response from Torre Vilarino about pilgrim rates:
“We do have special rates for pilgrims and we can stamp the credential as an establishment attached to the Camino de Santiago. The price of the double room would be €25 per person with breakfast included. For lunch or dinner they also have a reduced rate of €12 per person.”
This seems like such a great deal in light of their normal rates!
Nothing like a good visual@VNwalking and @Theatregal pics are sooooo great. I thik seeing them is finally what got Tom to really engage! And that is saying a lot
Yes, other than the tunnel which has specific hours, you can wander through the whole site anytime. I enjoyed wandering about the village looking at the views of the mountains from different perspectives. The little church is very pretty. Had some nice chats with local people about the area.The outdoor sites are still available any day, aren't they? Other than the visitor's centre and choices of places to eat, are there other things to do?
I know you mentioned earlier a two day walk with a full day in Médulas, which is what @Theatregal did and enjoyed a lot, though I vaguely remember something about a snafu in Ponferrada and having to get to Villavieja in a cab.
Yes, some of my luggage didn't arrive in Santiago with me and I had to spend an extra day there before catching the bus to Ponferrada. I decided that the leg to Villavieja would be the best one to miss to make up time. I regret missing that leg - next time! But it did mean that I had lots of time for the lovely walk through Villavieja, to the castilo and time to explore there. FYI entrance is free for pilgrims with your credential.t'd be a pity to miss the walk up to Villavieja, and the castilo. That whole stretch is a highlight of the camino. Old roads, old chestnuts, and amazing views.
The museum centre was closed on the Sunday that I was there but the two women working in the smaller tourist info spot (along the road between the church and Agoga) were great. The women were local, knowledgeable about the site and gave me a very good map.The second place, which I can't find now, is, I think, more of a tourist information spot. But additional info would be great.
So, maybe day one to Villavieja, day two to Orellán, day 3 to the mirador and then down to visit the site. The only “problem“ with an overnight in Orellán is that you will then unavoidably get to the mirador in the early morning. It is a flat few kms from the village to the mirador. I suppose you could walk over to the mirador late in the afternoon when you arrive in the village, but then you are just a hop, step and a jump away from the Agoga, down the steep hill from the mirador to the town of Médulas. I agree that there are some lovely places in Orellán, but that’s about all there is in Orellán.and there are a couple of lovely places to stay in Orellan.
That’s MY room! It was so great to sit out there. I don’t know if anyone else had the same problem but when I was going down early in the morning to get to my thermos of coffee and breakfast, the stairs were dark and I uninitentionally hit a doorbell. The family lives there and did not come to answer, thankfully. I later whatsApp-ed them to apologize and they told me it happens a lot. But it would be great if I thought I could help others avoid that embarrassment.ask for the balcony room at the front. A wonderful place to sit - it's shaded and the view is spectacular
The museum centre was closed on the Sunday that I was there
The only “problem“ with an overnight in Orellán is that you will then unavoidably get to the mirador in the early morning.
The short stages would allow me to visit both, even if the castle is closed and I don't stay overnight in Villavieja.Santalla to Borrenes bypassing the castillo also means bypassing Villavieja.
Noooo.Final pic from me
This is a real pity.Especially since the private albergue that opened a few years ago has turned themselves into a “whole house rental”
I have just WhatsApped the albergue owner. She tells me there are no plans to return to the albergue format. I guess they are having good results renting out the whole house.Noooo.
This is a real pity.
Does anyone know if this was a covid-time short term measure? If lots of pilgrims start showing up looking for places to stay, hopefully someone will pick up the slack.
I emailed them last night and have gotten the same answer. I just edited this post because I forgot to add that the have a minimum 2 night stay.I have just WhatsApped the albergue owner. She tells me there are no plans to return to the albergue format. I guess they are having good results renting out the whole house.
I think that for many people Puente Domingo Flórez is an awkward endpoint. Where did you sleep the previous night? I suppose people could spend the first night in Villavieja, walk through Médulas for a quick visit and then carry on? I would do that now that I’ve walked several times, but I think for most people, especially on their first Invierno, the lure of Médulas is too strong.On the Camino Invierno, there is a "don't miss" albergue in Puente de Domingo Flores, Casa Rosa, opened a year or so ago. The hosts are an amazingly wonderful family. Accommodations, food, and hosts are the best!!!
If you sleep in Las Medulas, spend the morning exploring whatever you didn't see the evening before, and then walk 10 km to Puente de Domingo Flores.I think that for many people Puente Domingo Flórez is an awkward endpoint. Where did you sleep the previous night?
That’s a really good idea. I remember a couple of forum members who walked to Médulas on the first day from Ponferrada and were then too zonked to visit the site. They had thought they would get there and feel like exploring, but when they got there all they felt like doing was sleeping. They just forged on ahead to Barco the next day and missed the magnificent Médulas.If you sleep in Las Medulas, spend the morning exploring whatever you didn't see the evening before, and then walk 10 km to Puente de Domingo Flores.
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