12-22Pilgrim
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- CF stage 2012
CF finish 2022 (hopefully)
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Yes, while I held down the home front for her during her Camino, this time she is doing it for me. So I am walking alone, which I am sure will be a very different experience than my past stages with her. I already know it is going to hurt but she is extremely supportive and encouraging.Many people walk The Way during life transitions. I hope it is what you need to make the break and everything you are hoping for. It seems from your post that you are walking alone rather than with your wife this time? Buen Camino!
How is more commercialisation a good thing?Best wishes for your Camino. You'll find an awful lot has changed in the past 10 years - not the least because of Covid - mostly for the better: more places to stay, more shops and bars in small communities but also a lot more commercialisation.
Everybody's Camino is different and I quite envy you as you'll be seeing places familiar to me for the first time.
As @mspath says - take your time this first week, Santiago will still be there waiting for you!
Buen Camino.
Everything changes with the “but”How is more commercialisation a good thing?
Sorry, where did I say commercialisation was a good thing?How is more commercialisation a good thing?
I agree that you made no reference to the pros or cons of things becoming more commercial. With a growing number of pilgrims over the years infrastructure and those looking to profit are just a natural outgrowth of population growth. I can say, especially on the Meseta that I am sure that many local Spaniards have greatly benefited economically by Pilgrims. When I first walked the Meseta towns looked and felt far differently then they do today. Most of the villages had maybe a bar or a very small tienda. You barely ever saw anyone under 70 years old and their were closed businesses and what looked like abandoned farms. Now those same villages are vibrant with life thanks in very large part to the Camino. Young people have a reason to stay now. I guess that is commercialism at its finest. I guessSorry, where did I say commercialisation was a good thing?
Buen camino . I loved reading this . On the Madrid at moment and struggling a bitAfter my wife walked the CF from SJPP in 2007, I have always been intrigued by the Camino - it was such a transformative experience for her and I stayed home to work and take care of our kitty. So when we started doing the CF in stages back in 2012, I was sure we would finish it together. But after getting to Burgos that year, we ended up cancelling another stage a couple years later due to an injury I got while on a training hike (I know, the irony) and then life and work just got in the way.
I had a job where even if I could take off a couple weeks (which was extremely difficult) I would have to be on calls even while walking and have meetings/conferences on the front and back end. And I found it hard to get in the Camino state of mind when I was always thinking about what would come immediately after (will my feet be destroyed when I have to walk 3 days at a trade show in dress shoes?) rather than in the moment. Heck my last day there was over a month ago and i was doing extensive work even just last week. Hard to get away…
My wife always promised that when I left that job (we both assumed retirement several years from now) that I would finish the Camino as a capstone event. So when I left my job earlier this year we started talking about it. Then digging out our old gear. Then planning. Then booking flights. Then walking with a pack. And suddenly my Camino had begun before I arrived in Spain.
Rather than start over, I decided to start where I got my last stamp at the Burgos Cathedral. So here I am at Terminal 4 in Madrid, waiting for the Alsa bus to Burgos, completely jet lagged, and planning to walk 10km to Tardajos this afternoon.
I am hoping (if that is not an "expectation") that this will help draw a thick line between that phase of my life and the next. I probably over-planned, over-packed, and under estimated how tough this will be without my wonderful wife. But I guess we will see…
So please wish me luck and I wish you all Buen Camino.
Buen Camino!After my wife walked the CF from SJPP in 2007, I have always been intrigued by the Camino - it was such a transformative experience for her and I stayed home to work and take care of our kitty. So when we started doing the CF in stages back in 2012, I was sure we would finish it together. But after getting to Burgos that year, we ended up cancelling another stage a couple years later due to an injury I got while on a training hike (I know, the irony) and then life and work just got in the way.
I had a job where even if I could take off a couple weeks (which was extremely difficult) I would have to be on calls even while walking and have meetings/conferences on the front and back end. And I found it hard to get in the Camino state of mind when I was always thinking about what would come immediately after (will my feet be destroyed when I have to walk 3 days at a trade show in dress shoes?) rather than in the moment. Heck my last day there was over a month ago and i was doing extensive work even just last week. Hard to get away…
My wife always promised that when I left that job (we both assumed retirement several years from now) that I would finish the Camino as a capstone event. So when I left my job earlier this year we started talking about it. Then digging out our old gear. Then planning. Then booking flights. Then walking with a pack. And suddenly my Camino had begun before I arrived in Spain.
Rather than start over, I decided to start where I got my last stamp at the Burgos Cathedral. So here I am at Terminal 4 in Madrid, waiting for the Alsa bus to Burgos, completely jet lagged, and planning to walk 10km to Tardajos this afternoon.
I am hoping (if that is not an "expectation") that this will help draw a thick line between that phase of my life and the next. I probably over-planned, over-packed, and under estimated how tough this will be without my wonderful wife. But I guess we will see…
So please wish me luck and I wish you all Buen Camino.
Welcome back after your break from the Camino. I am sure it will be a busier route this time. If you do find the changes since your last Camino "difficult" then consider travelling another route. The Portuguese from Porto to Tui perhaps, the Litoral was relatively quiet this May.After my wife walked the CF from SJPP in 2007, I have always been intrigued by the Camino - it was such a transformative experience for her and I stayed home to work and take care of our kitty. So when we started doing the CF in stages back in 2012, I was sure we would finish it together. But after getting to Burgos that year, we ended up cancelling another stage a couple years later due to an injury I got while on a training hike (I know, the irony) and then life and work just got in the way.
I had a job where even if I could take off a couple weeks (which was extremely difficult) I would have to be on calls even while walking and have meetings/conferences on the front and back end. And I found it hard to get in the Camino state of mind when I was always thinking about what would come immediately after (will my feet be destroyed when I have to walk 3 days at a trade show in dress shoes?) rather than in the moment. Heck my last day there was over a month ago and i was doing extensive work even just last week. Hard to get away…
My wife always promised that when I left that job (we both assumed retirement several years from now) that I would finish the Camino as a capstone event. So when I left my job earlier this year we started talking about it. Then digging out our old gear. Then planning. Then booking flights. Then walking with a pack. And suddenly my Camino had begun before I arrived in Spain.
Rather than start over, I decided to start where I got my last stamp at the Burgos Cathedral. So here I am at Terminal 4 in Madrid, waiting for the Alsa bus to Burgos, completely jet lagged, and planning to walk 10km to Tardajos this afternoon.
I am hoping (if that is not an "expectation") that this will help draw a thick line between that phase of my life and the next. I probably over-planned, over-packed, and under estimated how tough this will be without my wonderful wife. But I guess we will see…
So please wish me luck and I wish you all Buen Camino.
We have also left a phone chargers more than once. Maybe another pilgrim will let you charge your phone in the meantime? Doesn't hurt to ask.Made it to Castrojeriz and Albergue Orion. Looking forward to the Korean dinner there tonight at 6!
In the meantime, I am walking around the town trying to find a phone charger or euro plug adapter because I must have left mine behind in Tardajos. Waiting for the Supermercado to open or maybe a Pharmacia. I can see one in the window of the gas station but it is only open 10-2. If not here, maybe Fromista tomorrow.
It was much warmer today and as well expected there was less shade. Glad I had a buff and 100 sunblock.
It doesn’t seem as busy here as expected - although there are a ton of Albergues. I see other pilgrims from time to time but mostly walk alone. Maybe there was a rush earlier in the year or in later stages of the Camino?
The people that run Orion are truly wonderful, as you have discovered. I often cousel fellow pilgrims who are beginning their journeys, that "A Pilgrim is Grateful". Perhaps you will find adopting a posture of gratitude, engenders a posture of giving to those you meet along The Way. Rather than feeling bad for borrowing, isn't it possible that the lender also receives something in giving to a grateful pilgrim?The hospitalero was able to lend me one and I am sure another pilgrim would too. I just feel bad borrowing, which is probably a bad hang up of mine for the Camino…
Yes, I think I have been too stingy with my electrolytes and water and am now absolutely focused on that. Also trying to eat more and better - I had a few days where it seemed like I was living on bread and water as mis-timed meals. Thank you for the advice!Best of luck. If your feet ballooning is a new thing for you, it does sound a little like a too few electrolytes/too little food bonk. Hard to tell from here. Rest up, maybe a little less km tomorrow, and be rigorous about consuming electrolytes. After my husband bonked/ cramped in summer, I made him sip or eat electrolytes ( sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium) every mile, and drink water on the same schedule. Not a lot, but frequently.
Hi @samba. I’ve only just been reading this thread - and noticed your comment from a few days ago. Are you doing ok now? I love the Madrid Way but can be a solitary Way and maybe quite hot at the moment? Hope you are going wellBuen camino . I loved reading this . On the Madrid at moment and struggling a bit
We are, with great hope and prayers, only 2 days from the heatwave moving on from Spain. Since the heat wave began, I see Pilgrims starting everyday the earliest they can (430-630 is typical) and stop no later than 1 (1130-1230 even better). The sun is not so bad through about 1030-1100. Many of us are getting into our destinations early enough that Albergues are not open yet, so we sit and drink water and have lunch. Yesterday I was running later (left at 615 and arrived at 130) but that was because I needed almost a 90 minute recovery break before the last 6km. So please think about where you might stop early and often - and if you will have to walk in the worst of the sun and heat to meet some goal you have, consider whether it is worth it.I just did this now. Ridiculously hot out. Staying just outside of town curious about how busy it will be, even in the heat. Started in Burgos today.
I stayed in Tarjados as well - good plan!I spent 3 nights in Madrid, so much stone to radiate the heat until late. Maybe I'll just walk to Tardajos.
Enjoy Leon, and Burn Camino!
Liking your walk reports so far. Astorga has a special place in my heart as that was my staging spot for completing the rest of the CF just a month ago. Would be interesting how quickly you go through the stages since there seems to be no stopping you at this point.I LOVED the Albergue Karl Leisner - such a beautiful garden, cooler dorms (on one level and shielded from the sun), and the atmosphere - some pilgrims playing guitar and singing songs, some (like me) sharing food, wine, and beer while conversing in so many different languages (our little circle was American, Spanish, Belgian, Hungarian, Italian, Sicilian, and German. Just had to find the right ways to connect everyone (not through me). It was so relaxing. Everyone went to bed pretty early and I guess I overslept because when I awoke at 6am nearly every other pilgrim was gone! I had a short day to Astorga so I wasn’t stressed about the heat and sun today but I guess everyone else still is. Will be interesting to see how that all changes when the temps get cooler. So I left at 645.
I started off with a very sore left foot but once the Advil kicked in I was hauling butt! I arrived at Astorga at 1030 - so I estimate I was going about 5km per hour (normal pace is 4). There were some ups and downs on the way but I know that is just a taste of what is to come.
The walk was absolutely gorgeous - the contrast between my segment yesterday and today couldn’t have been more pronounced. It is like the bridge at Hospital de Orbigo is also a bridge back to the Camino without a Zone Industrial. Maybe it was worth compressing that into one day to get the pure beauty and quiet today!
Once in Astorga I toured the cathedral and museum and the Gaudi Palace (and it’s Camino museum. Now for lunch and cleaning up and a visit to the Desportes store and a Farmacia to refresh supplies.
Buen Camino!
I really like Astorga! It has a good vibe, the walk in was great(except for that super steep part to enter - ouch!), and it seems to have a lot of Pilgrims out preparing for the final push in the Pilgers Store and supermarcados.Liking your walk reports so far. Astorga has a special place in my heart as that was my staging spot for completing the rest of the CF just a month ago. Would be interesting how quickly you go through the stages since there seems to be no stopping you at this point.
Buen Camino.
I am so glad it resonates and I hope you do return - in my experience it has drawn such a bright line between my previous job and whatever I do in the future. And I am meeting so many people on the Camino who have left jobs or retired just before doing it. It is amazing to share that with others on the road.Thank you for your posts. They are evocative and also highlight just how unique each day can be, from a previous day, and a previous walk.
We are also returning to walk the Camino Frances after ten years. My husband, Tim retires in two weeks time. We also promised each other we would return at this life juncture to the CF. It is nice to know you are doing the same.
We both wish you buen camino and Ultreia in the heatwave.
In 2019 we walked the Via Podiensis and a heatwave came along, reaching high 30’s and then over 40. We took a rest day and a cab when it became too hot to walk, and felt this necessity was part of the journey for that Camino.
That said, I pray the heat eases for you and all experiencing it. Take care. Take heart.
Catherine and Tim
Absolutely! I haven’t walked past 130pm except the day I arrived (maybe one other day when I took a 90 minute break at noon due to exhaustion before finishing strong). When I see pilgrims arriving at 3 or 4 I have had such concern. But hopefully things will be better from here with the heat wave over.Hola @12-22Pilgrim I walked the Meseta back in May 2017 and where I could I took Brierley's alternate track. For me a lot more enjoyable.
A point of geography and local time zones: Spain operates on European Central Time (Paris/Berlin & Rome) but in fact it is actually WEST of London. This means that "noon"(high sun) is later in the day (usually after 13 or 1.00PM). So I would suggest that on really hot days (over 35C/95F) stop walking before that time and also "take those breaks" - re-hydrate and shoes/boots off the 15 mins. Buen Camino.
And to you, the absolute best. Ultreia.I am so glad it resonates and I hope you do return - in my experience it has drawn such a bright line between my previous job and whatever I do in the future. And I am meeting so many people on the Camino who have left jobs or retired just before doing it. It is amazing to share that with others on the road.
The heat absolutely eased up today. Partly because I am headed into the mountains and gaining altitude, but it was different from the start today out of Astorga. Here at Foncebadon it is absolutely perfect at 1pm where I would have been hiding before.
I wish you both the best!
If I would do it again, definitely would prefer stopping at Molinaseca than pushing on all that pavement walk to end a long tough day. I've grown more partial to smaller towns for stops. The things you learn along the way... Buen CaminoThe benefit of the harder end of the day yesterday was a short walk to Cruz de Ferro at sunrise. As one of the major milestones for my Camino, I was very excited to bring my stones and prayers. One of the great things about it was being there with some of the other pilgrims I have met along the way (did NOT want a selfie there). I added three stones to the pile - 2 for me and 1 on behalf of two very good friends in the US. With the anticipation I have to say I at first it didn’t have the emotional impact I expected. But as I got a km or so away, it all really started to hit me - stuff I brought on the Camino, stuff I was trying to leave behind at CdeF - and I was pretty emotional for about an hour of walking alone. I think at certain points I was almost running. So there was power in that spot even as it might just seem photogenic.
So began the downhill section of the day. After the first one I was like “hooray, that wasn’t as bad as I thought, I must be half goat!” Then the second one was worse. And the third one was worse than that. And on and on, each one worse than the prior one. My right calf started cramping up or getting strained or something. I realized that since it was cooler (downright cold and misty at times) I had not been drinking anything but coffee all day. So a whole bottle of electrolyte water and a bunch of regular water later and I felt better.
That is not to say it was all upset and leg misery today. I stopped for coffee at a little pop-up stand in Manjarin and that was a huge pick me up. When I got to El Acebo I stopped for coffee again and was treated to a bunch of pilgrim friends having breakfast (almost in waves as each cluster arrived) and to a Maragato band marching and playing music through town with dancing, singing, free drinks (a fortified wine of some sort), and pastries. It was fantastically fun, even if the Jacotrans and taxis had to wait a bit. Apparently it was a feast day for the village and we were lucky to be there at the right time. That was very energizing as well.
While many pilgrims are pushing to Ponferrada today since the weather is cooler, the sun behind clouds, and the walk is pretty short, I couldn’t be happier to stay in Molinaseca tonight - what a delightful town! Lunch down by the river post clean up and I am in heaven. As everyone says, walk YOUR Camino.
And with that…
Buen Camino!
Glad you got to spend time to listen to the locals' stories and what brought them to the CF. As mentioned previously, getting to know non-pilgrims may seem like contradictory but without these folks the infrastructure wouldn't be as appealing to a wide variety of pilgrims. I didn't have as much time as you have but those moments I did more than made up for the others. Walk on. Buen CaminoAnd to wrap up my day on even a brighter note, I had dinner at a cute Asian “corner diner” (hard to characterize the little food court here in Cacabellos). The meal was Korean spicy ramen, kimchi, a fried egg, and a side of spicy fries that are what I always wanted “patatas bravas” to be (and a couple beers and water for the spice ). It was an amazingly different meal (although I had Korean my second night at Albergue Orion) and so tasty. More importantly, I had a great conversation with Santiago, the owner. His family is from this village but he grew up in the Netherlands as the only Santiago. But he wanted to come “home” and support pilgrims on the Camino so he has this awesome little place.
I know there are criticisms of the increasing commercialism of the Camino, but we should be empathetic to the people trying to make a living and at the same time support pilgrims along the way. Especially how they suffered through COVID for a couple years. So if you find a place and host you like, find a way to spend a couple more Euros if you have the means. You will enjoy it too!
I thought the meal was also quite good. A bunch of us when to Bar Esther that night for a “tapas” type dinner of a lot of different plates and wine. It was right around the corner from the Atrio and clearly a very popular place with the locals later despite catering to pilgrims earlier. The food was very tasty and other pilgrims had just come back taking about their meal too. I recommend all carte rather than the pilgrims menu at Esther though - some of their best stuff was outside the “menu” though maybe on the combination plates.I can also thoroughly recommend the restaurant at Complexo Xacobero ( have also stayed at their albergue twice = 2015 & 2017). It was also raining when we arrived. After a quick shower my travelling companions (an English couple) and I investigated lunch. We were given a time of 2.30/14.30 (a typical Spanish lunch time). Being later we were able to take our time (no rush to leave). We shared the table with two or three other pilgrims. The soup was freshly made and wonderfully warming after the morning rain, i can't remember the other courses but my English friends gave me a gold star for restaurant choice.. We polished off 3 bottles of vino tinto (between 7) and two bottles of water. With a later finish (well after 4.00/1600 ) we did not need an evening meal. So we did a walk around the village - stopping to talk to pilgrims we had seen over the past week or so. Bought some supplies for the days ahead.
Glad you are having such a great reunion with the Frances. Thanks for your story. Buen Camio
I had some deep meaningful conversations approaching Sarria, and even a day or two from Santiago. Journey is not over yet.It was a rainy walk to Sarria today but a relatively quick and enjoyable one. We were all concerned it would rain all day but when I left the Albergue it was in a lull and just some drippings from trees. I started a conversation with an American pilgrim but then the rain started in earnest so I stopped to poncho up. I caught up with her not too much later down the trail (she did not bother with rain gear all day). Well I should say up the trail because there were a bunch of ups to start and while my poncho is breathable, I am not and was working up quite a sweat and breathing hard. But we settled into a great pace and started a wonderful conversation about all kinds of things - including how wonderful it was to do something where you can have deep and long conversations with strangers in the normal course of a day (ok, is anything on the Camino normal?). She was also walking without her husband but with a friend and sister and is between jobs too (purposefully so she could do her Camino). She had a very interesting background and we shared a ton of thoughts, ideas, and emotions. Only one coffee break to warm up and dry off and then back on the path. When we saw Sarria pop up on the horizon we could not believe it - time really flew. She saw her sister in town and we went our separate ways. It just shows that even this late in the Camino you can meet people for the first time that you really connect with!
I walked up to the upper part of Sarria, had coffee with some other pilgrims I knew and then just checked into my very nice hotel room at Casa Solance! Hope to arrive in Santiago by Tuesday the 28th but other pilgrims are pushing further today and hope to get there sooner. Some some goodbye blues even with meeting new people. But that is the Camino too.
Buen Camino!
Many of my friends went to villages between the towns like Sarria and Portomarin instead of staying in the towns. I totally get it - I liked a lot of the small towns too. And perhaps on my next Camino (there always seems to be another…) I will try it differently. Some pilgrims I talked to today wish they had taken more time (do it more slowly) in the early days because they felt so rushed and crowded at the end.Hola @12-22Pilgrim (and others). I do not know what it is about Sarria, but just does not "grab" me. In both 2015 and 2017 I pushed on to Barbadelo (Casa Carmen is my "go to place"). But hey - to each her/his own. I just love the rural aspect of the village. Carmen is up on a hill, great rural views and the sun and wind ensure clothes dry quickly. Cheers
One day at a time and you get there. I just found your thread today and am happy to read it while you are landing in Santiago. The welcome at Camino Companions upstairs from the office where you get your compostella and the welcome at Pilgrim House are wonderful opportunities to process what you just did.But wow, I can’t believe it!!!!
Also recommending the Pilgrim House. Great friendly people and a nice oasis in a busy city. I enjoyed my times stopping there and they were all so helpful and welcoming when I was in the midst of processing it all in almost a month ago to the day.Congratulations @12-22Pilgrim ! Wonderful. Enjoy Santiago, it is a wonderful city once you get to know it. If you need to take time to process, visit Pilgrim House in Rua Nova. It's a sanctuary.
Congratulations, what an achievement - thank you for taking the time to post! I have really enjoyed your posts along the way! Take your time to process and mind yourself! Buen Camino!I arrived in Santiago de Compestella today!!!! I was able to walk the last 5km or so with friends and arrive together (although “arriving” seemed to take forever!). I need time to process it all. But wow, I can’t believe it!!!!
Hello glad you enjoying . Re feet . I just use fixamil on all my toes . Have tried comped, made toecaps, Vaseline etc etc .find no matter what I do or how careful I am now , I get blisters on toes . Some worse than others . Comped when Blister fully formed , fixamil when just red and swelling .Farmacia has it . Called Mefix hereYes, I think I am adapting ok. It is funny to say that on day 4 with Pilgrims that have been walking 14-15 days (SJPP) or longer (one today, the appropriately named Roland, started in Le Puy and asked me to join his 37km day - I politely declined).
The weather was much better today! I noticed that pilgrims departed early to avoid the sun and heat (saw some departing at 430…I rolled over in bed till 530) and the road was pretty busy when I pushed off at 6am. It was very cool and breezy - finally got to wear my Patagonia Cap Air sweater for a few hours.
I took the optional path away from the Senda first thing in the morning - it was cool, shaded with trees, the sun was just rising, and it was very quiet. The only downside was that the cafe/bar along the way was closed. Still a chance to air feet, change socks, eat a little before pushing on.
I arrived at Villalcazar de Sirga at 930 this morning, averaging 4km an hour. Only had 6km to go for the day so I tried to visit the church here when it opened at 10. It was closed - maybe because it is Saturday. But the bar was open and was grateful for two cafe con leches, a banana, and a couple complimentary cookies and felt much better
My feet continue to suffer - I am truly done with compeed as I got another blister on my left small toe - it is a tiny toe but has had 3 successively larger blisters! The right small toe has done better with a bandaid and I am trying tape from here (worked well for the rest of the day. There is a blister forming under the footbed from my sandals, but it does not hurt yet. I am learning my feet like SmartWool and Icebreaker socks, but not Worn brand for this long distance stuff.
The last stretch to Carrion was no big deal. 6 km or so and I got there by 1120 if I remember right. Since I was pretty early, I went to the two churches in town and saw many exhibits adoring Mary (of course, I am in Spain) and walked around town a bit. Went to an awesome bakery and got a fresh loaf of twisty bread for tomorrow and a big crème filled sugar coated fritter, which I devoured. I saw many pilgrim friends around town - they are all staying (I think) at the Santa Clara because the singing nuns’ Santa Maria is closed for the next couple weeks - boo!!!
I splurged for a night at the my way to the Monasterio San Zoilo hotel and I am stunned by how nice it is. Soaking my feet in the tub as like heaven and I am glad I have my portable clothesline (thanks to my wife for calling it an essential for the weight). So it is a self care evening with the plan to walk to Ledigos tomorrow with the long, featureless meseta morning. I have enjoyed the meseta though - I think the pops of beauty (a church, a ruin, poppies and wild flowers, sunrise, etc.) are easier to find amidst the landscape.
I also don’t mean to bury my inner Camino - my wife and I are sharing a ton of thoughts and I am doing a lot of processing on my former job, life choices, challenges, and priorities. And trying to smell the roses too, talk to every other pilgrim I can, chat up hospitaleros (we had a long talk with the Korean woman who runs Albergue Orion), offer what encouragement and advice I can on injuries, and keep grinning as I go. More grinning today than yesterday (for everyone I assume - it was bloody hot till 10pm last night, but the cool breeze at 3am felt wonderful and I wrapped into my sleeping bag for the first time.
Buen Camino!
What finally worked for me was changing the lacing pattern on my shoes to relieve pressure on my toe box (particularly the small toes), sticking to SmartWool socks (though that may have been superstition) and changing them 2-3 times a day, and just waiting for cooler temps (we got a huge cold wave after the heat wave). Though I got a couple minor blisters later, for the last week I did nothing but heal despite some long days. My feet felt like new and that was such a blessing in the home stretch!Hello glad you enjoying . Re feet . I just use fixamil on all my toes . Have tried comped, made toecaps, Vaseline etc etc .find no matter what I do or how careful I am now , I get blisters on toes . Some worse than others . Comped when Blister fully formed , fixamil when just red and swelling .Farmacia has it . Called Mefix here
Good walking !
thinking about the end of one journey and the rejoining of another, the most important one. I can’t wait to be home
Beautiful.I spent the afternoon changing my flights, trains, hotels and other plans so that this Camino can end and that Camino can continue.
This is so bloody beautiful. Congratulations on your arrival and Buen Camino for the next partSo my 10-year Camino ends. After arriving at the Cathedral and celebrating with the friends I walked in with, we went to the Pilgrim’s Office to get our Compestellas and distance certificates. We then split up to find our accommodations. Another pilgrim friend from Bilbao asked if we could visit the Cathedral together and get a beer. That short visit turned into 5-6 hour discussion of psychology, philosophy, and mysteries over beer, wine, and lunch. We finally parted and I found myself eating a Tarte de Santiago for dinner later because everything was closed by the time I was hungry again
After a leisurely breakfast, I went to the 930am pilgrim’s Mass at the Cathedral and got to see them swing the botafumiera for a packed house. I wandered the city a bit, had a great lunch, but despite reaching my goal, I have to say I felt more sad and empty than fulfilled. Maybe it is the accumulated tiredness or a sense that my purpose was at an end. After all, the purpose of each day, of each hour of every day, is so clear on the Camino. “Free time” is earned. Maybe it was the lack of positive chemicals I get from exercise or a sense of loss of many of the friends I have made, who will go home, to the coast, or onto their next adventure from here.
But after giving it a lot of thought and prayer, I realized I just really missed my wife. Doing the Camino alone was a very special experience, one we now share because she did it alone 15 years ago. But as people realized on the Camino, it is a microcosm of life, compressing so many experiences, families, and friendships into these intense and short (seemingly long) days.
And in my life Camino, the person I want to walk with is at home, not in Muxia or Santiago. I spent the afternoon changing my flights, trains, hotel, and other plans so that this Camino can end and that Camino can continue.
So hear I sit at Casa Barbanted near the Cathedral drinking an Estrella del Camino wit beer, eyes tearing up, thinking about the end of one journey and the rejoining of another, the most important one. I can’t wait to be home!
Thanks for reading this thread and following my Camino. I have truly appreciate the kind words and advice and know that I was in the prayers of many others resting but not posting. We are truly blessed to have this forum and the experience of the Camino to share.
This may not be my last post to the forums - I greatly appreciated all the packing and preparation advice and may share some of my own thoughts and outcomes.
Ultreia!
Congratulations @12-22Pilgrim ! Wonderful. Enjoy Santiago, it is a wonderful city once you get to know it. If you need to take time to process, visit Pilgrim House in Rua Nova. It's a sanctuary.
Well said, both of you. There are too few threads like this one. I often wish pilgrims would forsake personal blogs and instagram and keep us "true believers" included in their progress. Thank you @12-22Pilgrim.Hola @12-22Pilgrim . I can understand that feeling - what do I do next??!! For you the decision to return home to your love one is perfectly natural. Thank you for sharing not only your Camino Adventure but something of your persona. Maybe the two of you can return next year to walk from Porto. A truly Buen Camino.
I was supposed to walk to Valcarlos on my first day, but a 'friend' encouraged to to go on to Roncesvalles. BAD mistake. But I made it. However, after 6k the following day, I knew I'd had enough. Great decision. Lovely restful day, sat in sunshine, vine tinto coffee ... what's not to like. Never needed to do it again. 6 wonderful weeks at 70.Hola @12-22Pilgrim As one who had to abandon my first camino I know the feeling of longing to retur,. Tardajos is an easy 10km and the reports I saw about La Fabrica (on the left as you enter the village) were good (although now a few years out of date). How you approach the subsequent days is really up to you. But let your body (and especially your feet) be your guide. Take it easy. Buen Camino.
Hola @bobcat - I have my own philosophy about the first 4 or 5 days on the Camino. Take it slow and steady allow your body (and by extension your mind) to become what I call "Camino Fit". Regardless of how much training you have done it does not equate with walking with your pack (just a couple of kilos or pounds above desired); sleeping in a strange bed with 10 or 20 strangers; all those "foreign noises" etc.I was supposed to walk to Valcarlos on my first day, but a 'friend' encouraged to to go on to Roncesvalles. BAD mistake. But I made it. However, after 6k the following day, I knew I'd had enough. Great decision. Lovely restful day, sat in sunshine, vine tinto coffee ... what's not to like. Never needed to do it again. 6 wonderful weeks at 70.
Buen Camino.
Wish you all the best. We stopped working in 2013, moved to France and decided that the best transition from work to retirement was to do Le Saint Jacques de Compostelle. So we bought all the stuff needed and locked our door and walked from Beauregard in the Lot in France and all the way to Santiago. 9 weeks later we arrived, tired , happy and agreeing that, that was the most amazing thing we had ever done. Hope you will feel the same . Btw. We are from Denmark and had never walked all the much beforeAfter my wife walked the CF from SJPP in 2007, I have always been intrigued by the Camino - it was such a transformative experience for her and I stayed home to work and take care of our kitty. So when we started doing the CF in stages back in 2012, I was sure we would finish it together. But after getting to Burgos that year, we ended up cancelling another stage a couple years later due to an injury I got while on a training hike (I know, the irony) and then life and work just got in the way.
I had a job where even if I could take off a couple weeks (which was extremely difficult) I would have to be on calls even while walking and have meetings/conferences on the front and back end. And I found it hard to get in the Camino state of mind when I was always thinking about what would come immediately after (will my feet be destroyed when I have to walk 3 days at a trade show in dress shoes?) rather than in the moment. Heck my last day there was over a month ago and i was doing extensive work even just last week. Hard to get away…
My wife always promised that when I left that job (we both assumed retirement several years from now) that I would finish the Camino as a capstone event. So when I left my job earlier this year we started talking about it. Then digging out our old gear. Then planning. Then booking flights. Then walking with a pack. And suddenly my Camino had begun before I arrived in Spain.
Rather than start over, I decided to start where I got my last stamp at the Burgos Cathedral. So here I am at Terminal 4 in Madrid, waiting for the Alsa bus to Burgos, completely jet lagged, and planning to walk 10km to Tardajos this afternoon.
I am hoping (if that is not an "expectation") that this will help draw a thick line between that phase of my life and the next. I probably over-planned, over-packed, and under estimated how tough this will be without my wonderful wife. But I guess we will see…
So please wish me luck and I wish you all Buen Camino.
It does feel like an amazing experience and I am very happy I did it. My wife and I are already discussing future CaminosWish you all the best. We stopped working in 2013, moved to France and decided that the best transition from work to retirement was to do Le Saint Jacques de Compostelle. So we bought all the stuff needed and locked our door and walked from Beauregard in the Lot in France and all the way to Santiago. 9 weeks later we arrived, tired , happy and agreeing that, that was the most amazing thing we had ever done. Hope you will feel the same . Btw. We are from Denmark and had never walked all the much before
I’m currently in Sahagún and it’s very quiet here as well. I was also here in 2012. Beds readily available. I’m a people person but loving the time alone. Buen Camino!Made it to Castrojeriz and Albergue Orion. Looking forward to the Korean dinner there tonight at 6!
In the meantime, I am walking around the town trying to find a phone charger or euro plug adapter because I must have left mine behind in Tardajos. Waiting for the Supermercado to open or maybe a Pharmacia. I can see one in the window of the gas station but it is only open 10-2. If not here, maybe Fromista tomorrow.
It was much warmer today and as well expected there was less shade. Glad I had a buff and 100 sunblock.
It doesn’t seem as busy here as expected - although there are a ton of Albergues. I see other pilgrims from time to time but mostly walk alone. Maybe there was a rush earlier in the year or in later stages of the Camino?
Thank you for taking us along on your Camino. I appreciated your day to day experiences - so many reminders of my two solo hikes on the CF (2012 & 2016). I missed my husband so often. He is now retired and the two of us will be walking the CF together from Roncesvalles to Santiago, starting in September. Can’t wait!!A short post script: Yesterday was my final day in Santiago and since my train was not till nearly 5pm, I decided to sit in the Cathedral Square and wait for friends that were supposed to arrive in the morning. Even before they had arrived I was hugging a crying Italian peregrina I had not seen for over a week (she said it was “her second best hug of the day” - I will take it!). Then my friends arrived and we all hugged, took pictures, and I walked them to the Pilgrims Office and Cathedral entrance for the 1230 mass. And I continued to run into pilgrims I had walked with for the next 2 hours as I sat quietly.
At 1pm I met my friends at the Pub Albaroque on the Via Sacra for drinks and there we sat with wine and beer for hours. The bar straddled the street that pilgrims use to arrive, really the perfect location. We cheered and hugged the pilgrims we knew (my friends seemed to know EVERYONE), we cheered and toasted the pilgrims we didn’t know. There was a lot of laughing, crying, hugging, hellos, and goodbyes all at the same time.
It was very hard to leave but I ran back to my hotel for my bag and made my train with joyful tears in my eyes again. I am sure my friends will continue their vigil on the Via Sacra and then hand that role off to another set of pilgrims after that. But it was a magical day to cap off a wonderful Camino.
And now I am boarding my flight home where my life Camino will continue with my lovely wife.
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