Sept 7 2021 Salvador and Primitivo

[Jim ME]

Departing Leon Sept 7th

 

[Former member 49149]

Departing Leon Sept 7th

Wishing you the best of Caminos.I have walked most of the Salvador. Pastoral. Other threads have current comments on hostel availability. One is looking at option to bus back to Leon from La Robla, and taxi out next morning to same spot, and thence onwards. Perhaps if you have not already done so, you could search the threads for El Salvador, and see what shows up for you. If I scan the titles, and find one, I will send it to you in a pm to save you hunting.

 

[Former member 49149]

Actually, here are the first two I came across. I took screenshots. NadineK walked the Salvador some years ago, so has lots of knowledge of that route. The other thread is current.

 

[Jim ME]

kikie, Thanks! I have been reading those. I have secured reservation from Leon to Oveido, with 2 nights booked there. Rooms are filling up there as well. You and others are correct. It was not easy to find places to stay on the Salvador, but thanks to all of the great people here, I discovered ways to find the limited number of rooms. I am traveling single, so my cost is higher, but happy to pay it to have a room. I am delving into the Primitivo over the next few days. Would love to hear from folks who walked the Primitivo with slightly longer stages than in Cicerone Pilgrim Route book which I have. I am also aware of booking issues on the Primitivo. Would like to hear of favorite spots not to miss as well? Thanks again for reaching out! Jim

 

[Jim ME]

Actually, here are the first two I came across. I took screenshots. NadineK walked the Salvador some years ago, so has lots of knowledge of that route. The other thread is current. View attachment 106516View attachment 106517

Hi... I am on those two and Laurie was very helpful to my journey and Nadine is giving good tips on the Primitivo. Thanks all!

 

[Paul J W]

Hi Jim, two great routes as you will surely find!

C de S Salvador (2018) - from Leon picked up discrete credential at welcoming Bar Central in Carbajal; (see you have made reservations but, for me) two notable refuges: Carbanillas and Buiza - need to take own provisions because of no shops/bars at either.

C Primitivo (2015) - recommend: Pola de Allende Hotel (proprietor v supportive of pilgrims, v reasonable concessionary rate and superb food); Moneda Hotel, at O Cadavo (found similar welcome); Albergue in Lugo (exceptional, with excellent inexpensive restaurants outside City walls); San Roman (quaint municipal Albergue - check out nearby Meson for outstanding meal).

The above represent something of the highlights for me but opt out clause does reside in “changes over time”, you’ll appreciate.

Bon Camino and Enjoy!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I’m not sure of the stages in your book, these were my stops leaving out of Oviedo: cornellana (liked staying in the monastery even if it’s not necessarily like staying in an monastery, could have gone a bit further but no point bc i wanted to stay in bodenaya second night (albergue was highly recommended and I concur). Campiello. Berducedo (went via Hospitales and I couldn’t have gone further that day—YMMV of course. Stayed in a casa rural that was really nice, skylight above my bed). Castro (stayed at hostel, to do over I’d stay at hotel but hostel was fine, just not my roommates)—-probably could have pushed to A Fonsgrada but it began to rain and I’m a wimp. Fonsagrada (because no lodging after that until o Cadavo). Lugo. (Wasn’t ready to stop at O cadavo, rumor was of an albergue in castroverde—it wasn’t opened and hotel was full). Fonsagrada to Lugo was doable but I was glad for a scheduled rest day in Lugo afterwards. San Ramon (because I took the detour to Santa Eulalia, and bc albergue o candido had a private room…the owner made Queimada for us). Melide (could have gone further and probably should have but after not finding lodging when I’d hoped to enroute to Lugo I was a little hesitant to walk past Melide. To do over I’d keep walking, plenty of places to stay after Melide. What limited me often was no lodging between stops (not just no alburges but no lodging period) but looking at Gronze it looks like more options since I walked. Longest leg was the A Fonsagrada to Lugo and it was doable but I’m not sure I’d recommend it as the final few km through uninteresting industrial area feels like it will never end.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I’m not sure of the stages in your book, these were my stops leaving out of Oviedo: cornellana (liked staying in the monastery even if it’s not necessarily like staying in an monastery, could have gone a bit further but no point bc i wanted to stay in bodenaya second night (albergue was highly recommended and I concur). Campiello. Berducedo (went via Hospitales and I couldn’t have gone further that day—YMMV of course. Stayed in a casa rural that was really nice, skylight above my bed). Castro (stayed at hostel, to do over I’d stay at hotel but hostel was fine, just not my roommates)—-probably could have pushed to A Fonsgrada but it began to rain and I’m a wimp. Fonsagrada (because no lodging after that until o Cadavo). Lugo. (Wasn’t ready to stop at O cadavo, rumor was of an albergue in castroverde—it wasn’t opened and hotel was full). Fonsagrada to Lugo was doable but I was glad for a scheduled rest day in Lugo afterwards. San Ramon (because I took the detour to Santa Eulalia, and bc albergue o candido had a private room…the owner made Queimada for us). Melide (could have gone further and probably should have but after not finding lodging when I’d hoped to enroute to Lugo I was a little hesitant to walk past Melide. To do over I’d keep walking, plenty of places to stay after Melide. What limited me often was no lodging between stops (not just no alburges but no lodging period) but looking at Gronze it looks like more options since I walked. Longest leg was the A Fonsagrada to Lugo and it was doable but I’m not sure I’d recommend it as the final few km through uninteresting industrial area feels like it will never end.

I will also say the walk to cornellana was possible because I’d had a rest day in Oviedo prior so did all the usual things one should do (churches, including San Miguel and Santa Maria up on the hill, Cathedral, Holy Chamber, museum, cloister etc, and other fun sightseeing in the city) so all I had to do was get up and walk. And since I sort of knew the city I didn’t get lost leaving it, which was my usual MO.

 

[Jim ME]

I will also say the walk to cornellana was possible because I’d had a rest day in Oviedo prior so did all the usual things one should do (churches, including San Miguel and Santa Maria up on the hill, Cathedral, Holy Chamber, museum, cloister etc, and other fun sightseeing in the city) so all I had to do was get up and walk. And since I sort of knew the city I didn’t get lost leaving it, which was my usual MO.

Thank you very much. I will check your suggestions.!!

 

[Jim ME]

Hi Jim, two great routes as you will surely find!

C de S Salvador (2018) - from Leon picked up discrete credential at welcoming Bar Central in Carbajal; (see you have made reservations but, for me) two notable refuges: Carbanillas and Buiza - need to take own provisions because of no shops/bars at either.

C Primitivo (2015) - recommend: Pola de Allende Hotel (proprietor v supportive of pilgrims, v reasonable concessionary rate and superb food); Moneda Hotel, at O Cadavo (found similar welcome); Albergue in Lugo (exceptional, with excellent inexpensive restaurants outside City walls); San Roman (quaint municipal Albergue - check out nearby Meson for outstanding meal).

The above represent something of the highlights for me but opt out clause does reside in “changes over time”, you’ll appreciate.

Bon Camino and Enjoy!

Thanks!!!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Thank you very much. I will check your suggestions.!!

If rest days are possible I’d suggest a day to see Oviedo and one to see Lugo (i.e. not just walking through Lugo). If you only have time for one city then I’d make it Oviedo. Go hear the nuns sing. But there’s lots to see in Lugo. Things change with time, I hear Alex no longer runs Bodenaya so not sure if it’s the same. It was one of my favorite alburges on several caminos. Primitivo was my favorite, I wish you a very Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

I hear Alex no longer runs Bodenaya so not sure if it’s the same.

You are right that Alex has moved on from Bodenaya, but his successor David is just as committed to the “camino spirit” as anyone I have ever met on a camino. With his capacity at 50%, and as a donativo, I cannot imagine how he is surviving.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

You are right that Alex has moved on from Bodenaya, but his successor David is just as committed to the “camino spirit” as anyone I have ever met on a camino. With his capacity at 50%, and as a donativo, I cannot imagine how he is surviving.

Hopefully pilgrims are generous. Hmm, I wonder if there’s a way to donate from afar

 

[peregrina2000]

Hopefully pilgrims are generous. Hmm, I wonder if there’s a way to donate from afar

I am hoping to walk the Salvador/Primitivo in September. I am still not sure if I will sleep at Bodenaya. I have individual rooms reserved for the rest of the route but I just really love that place!

If nothing else, I will be stopping there to give a donation, so if anyone on my side of the pond wants to send me a check, I will be happy to drop it off when I stop there, whether it be to sleep or to say hi.