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Should I start in LePuy, Arles, or Vezelay?

FlechaCadaDia

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances ('05)
I walked Camino Frances years ago, and now I'd like to do it again, but start in France. What are your thoughts on the different French routes? Have you done multiple?

I leave in early May--would it be crowded then?
 
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The Le Puy could be busy in May, certainly with French walkers who come out in droves, and walk the first two weeks to Cahours. My wife and I walked the route on our way to Lourdes last May and June. We found we needed to book ahead for a couple of beds, especially in the towns and villages where there was only one place to stay. So you might find yourself competing for a bed here or there (it will be wise to call ahead a book). It is by far the most popular French pilgrim trail as compared to the other trails in France. I think some 20,000 people walk it, mostly the first half at least. And mostly French walkers and few foreigners.

The Arles route is quieter and far less people walk this route by probably a factor of 1/10 as compared to the Le Puy route. So for most of the time you have the trail to yourself. However pilgrim style accommodation is further apart, and many of the stages are longer, so you need to plan for this. Given the distances and lack of pilgrim style accommodation is some stages, again you might find you need to call ahead, though I sure you will find a place most nights without too much effort.

The Vezelay is the least busy route of the three. I have not walked it but all accounts I get the impression, you have the place to yourself.
 
I have been to all three towns, though did not start in Vezelay (yet)

Hmmmm. Arles has a nice flat start. LePuy is wonderful from day one. Vezelay so scenic and empty. A win-win -win decision,

Go for LePuy, do the mass, and stop in Saugues at the great farm Gite. That is the true Chemin St Jacques.
 
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I have walked Vezelay and Arles but not Le Puy. From what I have been told, Le Puy is the most scenic.

Arles was not crowded and I never booked ahead. I left Arles on 19 May. Most nights there were other pilgrims but never too many.

Vezelay was the least crowded - more deer than people sometimes. You have to be careful with fod and drink because a lot of villages have no bar or shop. There are a fair number Refuges de Pelerin, alwys small. Some of them have canned food, beer and wine marked with a price and you put money in an honesty box. If you decide this route, get the Chassain guide. It is in French and has good maps.
 
May is the busiest month for walkers in France as jirit says, but I walked then and it was ok so long as I booked a day or two ahead. (Gites or tourist offices or other pilgrims will often help you with that if you don't speak much French.)
Le Puy is the busiest of the three routes, but that also means it has the best infrastructure. It also means you have some company. I think both the Arles route and the Vezelay route are quite quiet but haven't actually walked them.
Margaret
 
The Le Puy route is just gorgeous - I would definitely recommend it as a first Chemin in France. The Arles is also wonderful but more challenging and perhaps less rich in the kind of pilgrim treats you will find in plenty on the Le Puy. I am about to start out towards the Vezelay route and so cannot yet say how it is, but I agree with others who say the infrastructure on the Le Puy cannot be beaten. Also Conques, Figeac, Saint Cirque de la Popie... all these places and more on the route are magical and unforgettable.
And lucky you, to have the choice of which Chemin to discover first!
Bon courage!
 
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