PEI_Heather
Canadian Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2016 - Voie de la Nive
2012, 2016 - Frances
2013 - Portuguese
2012, 2013 - Finesterre & Muxia
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Hi Heather
Which of the Caminos Portugues are you walking, Coast or Interior?
Buen Camino!
Hello Heather,
I've walked the French Camino two times, not the Portuguese, but as I'm Portuguese and I live in Lisbon I think I can answer some of your questions.
Question one
When you arrive Lisbon you'll be entering the Schengen Area, so you have to go through Costumes and have your Passport stamped. You say will land before at Paris. If you have a connection flight to Lisbon you won't have to stamp your passport there because you'll only pass the "border" when you arrive at Lisbon. As Spain belongs to the same Area you shouldn't have any problems when you fly back because then you'll be leaving the Schengen area.
Question two
There are two Caminos leaving Lisbon to Santiago, one through Leiria, other through Santarém. There is a Santiago Church at Lisbon at an Association of Friend of the Camino there. They have a page on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/IgrejadeSantiagoLisboa), you could contact them for more information on how the best way to exit the Lisbon area.
Also leaving Lisbon you have the Way to Fatima, that Way is marked with blue arrows. Pay attention because both way are different.
Question three:
Any village will have bars and restaurants where they will let you fill your Camelback. You will also find fountains and most of them are from the public water system (therefore safe to drink), but you should ask before, especially in very rural areas.
Question four
Any small village in Portugal would have a bar/cafe. Of course the amount of bars/cafes along the French Camino is huge, but you shouldn't have problems with that. And as you approach the North part of Portugal less you'll have because you'll be finding small villages all the time. You should bring some money with you because in rural areas small bars and cafes might not accept card payments. Here in Portugal food is great, I'm sure you'll like it. Here some tips:
Breaks
Cafe con leche - "Meia de leite" (in a cup) or "galão" (in a glass - this is bigger)
Cafe solo - café or bica
Cola Cao - "leite com chocolate" (here they sell it already made, in a glass bottle, you may ask to warm it or drink it cold, you usually won't have a cup of milk and the Cola Cao powder to mix with it)
Bocadillos - "sandes" (sandwiches are a lot smaller than the spanish bocadillos...). Any where you can have it with ham (sandes de fiambre), with cheese (sandes de queijo), with both ham and cheese (sandes mista). You should also say if you want to have your sandwich with butter or not or they will put butter on any sandwich you have. Besides this you can have a "bifana no pão" (small porc steak in a small round bread) or a "prego no pão" (the same but of beef, cow meat). With this you should have very nice breaks.
Meals
A typical meal in Portugal is a starter (usually soup), a main course (meat or fish with salad, rice or potato) and desert/fruit. Grilled or roasted meat or fish are common. Rice as a side is also usual, as well as fried or boiled potatos.
Well I hope you find this information useful. I’m sure you’ll like Portugal!
Buen Camino
Cris
My wife and I had the same problem with a passport stamp when we arrived in Spain...we didn't receive one. After a week in Spain we realized what happened and asked a security guard at an airport what we needed to do to receive a stamp. Her reply was amazing. She said to walk through the arrivals security gate (the wrong way) and go over to the Police Captains office. We did just that. We walked up to the closed, sliding glass door marked "Do Not Enter", waited for someone coming out to trip the motion sensor. Bystanders watched curiously to see what happens when two foreigners trigger the alarms. We walked through and were immediately stopped by an uzi-toting security guard. We nervously explained our situation. He smiled and then allowed us to walk through the secure area (without our backpacks being screened) to go find the Captain on our own. We found him. He was very friendly and we all laughed about our problem, talked about the Camino and then he quickly stamped our passport, bidding us a "Buen Camino." I love Spain.
Hi, Heather,
I'm assuming you've seen all the differing opinions on the forum about the early stages out of Lisbon. I fall on the side of those who say that the situation is not so bad, and though there are some not so pretty parts, the small towns are lovely and the people so helpful and kind that it makes up for the ugliness. But you can always hop on one of the commuter trains as far as Azambuja and skip ahead. (Don't miss the pleasant river walk between south of Vila Franca, though).
Have you seen the CSJ online guide (two parts, one from Lisbon to Porto and one from porto to Santiago?) There are also some updates. The other great online resource is the Vialusitana. They have a website with a very complete list of all albergues from Lisbon up to Santiago, and if you were interested in sleeping in the Bombeiros place (firefighters), that website tells you which towns still offer that service.
And one last thing, the Vialusitana website also has a SOS pilgrim phone number that people can call. Its a great resource -- you can call and say -- help, I am lost and they will be able to help you back onto the Caminho, at least between Lisbon and Porto. This group is in charge of painting arrows and they know every little twist and turn on the route.
There is a lot of asphalt walking on this route, not my favorite, but I thought it was a great route through some of Portugal's prettiest little towns. And Tomar and Coimbra (and the Roman ruins at Rabacal and Conimbriga) are worth a longer visit. Bom caminho! Laurie
Um, thanks for your 'witty' answers to my questions.
I'll just wait until someone can give me a less snarky response. Thanks. I'm not sure what I did to insult you, but I think my queries are as valid as anyone else's.
The worst part is day 2 due to John Brierley's guide from Alverca do Ribatejo to Azambuja so what my wife and I did last May was taking the train to Azambuja. But than you do not pass Vila Franca de Xira ,as Laurie advises to walk along the river.
Nice experiences we had for a place to sleep was at privat albergue in Santarèm. Just go to the tourist info and ask for it. It is almost in their backgarden And albergue Hilario 's just 3kms out of Mealhada ,direction Ansião. Great place to feel the real caminho spirit. In Golegã is a good place to stay at Solo Duro.
We slept at the bombeiros in Tomar but had the feeling pilgrims were not welcome and the place was very noisy. The nightshift firefighters were playing games and shouted and spoke loud ,I think to stay awake,but okay that's the charm of sleeping at the bombeiros.
O Bras in Alvaiazère is good value to stay for the night and ask in the local church for a very special stamp in your credencial ! Without ink, impressed in the paper ! Very nice.
In Rabacal is an albergue. The owner of the restaurant just after the roundabout calls for somebody who comes with the keys to let you in.
Between Rabacal en Coimbra we slept at a highschool college, colégio da Imaculada Conceicão in Cernache tel. 239940030. Bunkbeds in a seperate house at the campus.
Just call them and you'll get a warm welcome from the concierge. Very nice !
In Coimbra is a lot to choose concerning finding a bed. We stayed in hotel Avenida , just over the bridge, entering Coimbra. A acceptable place with the grandeur of ancient times.
Hostal Celèste in Àgueda is comfortable but is 3 kms past the center and if you want to eat something you'll have to go back to the center and after diner back again so add an extra 6kms to your quotum of that day .
Just outside Albergaría a Velha is a sanctuario Casa Diocesana with nuns where you can sleep and eat. When we were there we got a very warm welcome .
Solar is a good hotel in São João da Madeira just in the center.
Porto has plenty of places to sleep. But you allready got a lot of clues in this thread
Bom caminho
We cycled - and the coastal route from Sintra just outside Lisbon to Porto is stunningly beautiful. Not signposted but if you keep the sea on your left you can't go wrong! There are detailed military maps from the 1960s - not too much has changed, or you can just use googlemaps etc. As it's the seaside there are good facilities when you get to villages/towns, but do carry water in between in case. Always available at village fountains. We found it incredibly cheap to eat the 'plate of the day' - practically cheaper then cooking ourselves in the evenings! Sometimes we paid as little as 5 euros (in 2009) for a 3 course meal - with lovely wine!!! (Oh I do like Portugal!) No albergues tho'! We camped until after Porto. Highlights are Nazare, Obidos Lagoon, Aveiro. Quiet, peaceful, friendly, oxen pulling carts, cobbled tracks, vines on granite posts - lush! Enjoy!
Just to give a headsup to you all...
About what @rubianes21 talked from the Church of St. James in Lisbon, please, DON'T GO THERE!
There is a lot of propaganda in the Facebook page, but the church it's mostly closed. If you have any question regarding anything about the Caminho Português, please go to the Cathedral and ask to the person who it's located in the balcon where the Credentials are sold.
Otherwise, you can do has @peregrina2000 told, and contact @Via Lusitana . Check their website for extra informations. You have wonderfull guides there, made by people has @peregrina2000 and other forum members.
And I don't know who talked about the Caminho passing through Leiria, but it doesn't, unless you do a detour . If you do this, be prepared at least with a map or GPS, because I think that the markings in there are inexistent. Anything you can contact me for metalmelitia666@gmail.com
Best Regards
Diogo Martins
Hi Albertinho!
Here is just how small the world is: I read your Camino blog only a couple of weeks ago! I found it, translated it on Google Translate (as best as it would do it) and read it as part of my research on doing the Camino Portuguese.
Some of my questions actually come from reading your blog, amongst other people's!
Thanks for the info above; I feel like I'm having a deja vu all over again! You had a great trip and I enjoyed reading about it. And am looking forward to finding out about some of the places you and your wife stayed at/saw/experienced. I'm making notes of everything people are telling me here, for myself and my friends, who I'll meet up with in Lisboa. We'll compare notes or just go from there and use our combined notes to make our way north.
Cheers from Canada!
Heather
There are no ugly part of the Camino, just parts that aren't as nice as others.
¡ Encantado Heather ! Much obliged.
If you enjoy the caminho as we did, you will have the time of your life.
Bom caminho and best regards from this side of the world.
Albertinho Rotterdam NL
PEI- Heather,
You seem to be very well researched already, I wish you a wonderful Caminho.
A few comments from my experience from Tui to Santiago de Compostela ;
IF weight is an issue for you, I think you could manage with less than 5L of water , there aren't that many long stretches without a fountain or bar / shop.
There is much to delight in along the way as well as some challenging roadside walking and railway track crossing, so , as ever, TAKE CARE..
One of my personal favourite locations in this part of the world is the Old Town of Pontevedra.
Enjoy and Bom Caminho
If this is your first Camino you will like it. If is your 10th Camino you will like it. I don't know if you're traveling alone or not but one thing I learned on the Camino is you are never alone. I look forward to update of you adventure. Urban T Buen Camino
I'm from the pacific northwest. When it's not pouring it's raining. Oh and fall happened 2 days ago. lasted 1 day.PS, Will do, Tony!
PPS, "Very wet part of Canada"? Where'd you get that from? Not really...oh wait a minute, you mean in relation to Nevada?! Then yes, yes it is!! Hahahaha! (But it's not raining now; it IS a lovely 12°C (or 54°F) out...perfect for walking, n'est pas?!) Have a great day, Tony; watch out for all that falling sun!
I'm from the pacific northwest. When it's not pouring it's raining. Oh and fall happened 2 days ago. lasted 1 day.
I keep an eye on the weather in Galicia. It's very similar to Seattle. But it's OK, I don't melt or rust in the rain.I don't know what idea you have from the Portuguese weather, but it's not so idyllic has that
We have more sun than most of the countries of Europe, but we sure also have more rain than a lot of countries in Europe. Check this website and see it for yourselves: http://www.climatedata.eu/
Best Regards
Diogo
P.S: @PEI_Heather, autumn has begun at the 21st. Right now, it's a lovely rainy dayBe aware to catch both rain and possibly heat!
Really, I did not know that. I had always thought you got a lot of rain there.Thanks I like to learn something new every day. I do like the dry weather here and I don't miss the rain of the Pacific Northwest. Bom Caminho or as we would say in the Navy, may you have a fair wind and following sea.
I don't know what idea you have from the Portuguese weather, but it's not so idyllic has that
We have more sun than most of the countries of Europe, but we sure also have more rain than a lot of countries in Europe. Check this website and see it for yourselves: http://www.climatedata.eu/
Best Regards
Diogo
P.S: @PEI_Heather, autumn has begun at the 21st. Right now, it's a lovely rainy dayBe aware to catch both rain and possibly heat!
I keep an eye on the weather in Galicia. It's very similar to Seattle. But it's OK, I don't melt or rust in the rain.Hope to see you on the Caminho in May.
I keep an eye on the weather in Galicia. It's very similar to Seattle. But it's OK, I don't melt or rust in the rain.Hope to see you on the Caminho in May.
That's right; we're not made of sugar! We won't melt in the rain!
Well, actually we are in need for a little bit of rain right now. All the cultures have been delayed thanks to the cold from last winter and the extreme heat from this summer.
I just can't wear a poncho. I love my wind cutter jacket. For me, for walking or even on a daily basis, there is only one type of jacket that can beat that: my air force jacket! The problem with the air force jacket is that, it's extremely heavy and it's too warm, so I only use it for the winter days.
And I rather prefer to walk in the rain and cold, then with the heat. It will sure be better to do the Caminho de Fatima next October with rain and cold, than with heat
Best Regards
Diogo
You won´t melt, you´ll just get soaking wet.
Buen Camino!
And that's where hot cups of tea come in... No matter how soaking wet, a hot cuppa tea will make everything better! Hahaha! (That comes from my Scottish/English/Irish heritage, I guess.)
Seriously looking into an Altus when I get to Lisbon now. Soaking wet IS soaking wet, right?
@PEI_Heather, I think that Altus it's not a brand sold in Portugal. But in that store that I indicated to you on my last email. you will probably find something very similar.
Best Regards
Diogo
@PEI_Heather , today I have to go to that store, and I'll tell you if they have anything.
Best Regards
Diogo
PEI_Heather, I bought a poncho from Amazon. Brand name Ferrion Trekker RP. It was about $60 as I recall. Has a space for you pack, easy to put on, zips up the front, can double as a shelter or ground cloth or blanket, and covers most the legs when worn.
P.S. Pick up a cheap collapsing umbrella when you get there. I did and it was a good investment.
Hey, I lived near Seattle when I was a youngster and it always rains like crazy up there.For the record it's raining something crazy just north of Vancouver, BC. I bought a new Arcteryx jacket and pants, cover for the pack from MEC.... I'm still deciding on socks... with less than 6 weeks until I touch down in Porto.
...the explorer
I think I looked at that jacket at MEC last year. Was too heavy for me. I just bought a pair of seamless Coolmax toesocks. I've got two pairs of these that I'll take with me, along with one pair of Smartwool socks--all mini-crew, to below my ankle (so lighter). When I'm not wearing these babies, I'll be wearing just me and sunscreen. I'm taking sandals this time. Sandals and socks...what every (hopelessly un)fashionable person wears about town! Hahaha!For the record it's raining something crazy just north of Vancouver, BC. I bought a new Arcteryx jacket and pants, cover for the pack from MEC.... I'm still deciding on socks... with less than 6 weeks until I touch down in Porto.
...the explorer
Hey, I lived near Seattle when I was a youngster and it always rains like crazy up there.
Heather it not what you ride it's the ride that counts.Besides, you can only go as fast as the speed limit. Believe it or not I often wish I had a Vespa. It was the first motorbike I had ever ridden.
About the poncho you put it on like a coat then zip up and seal overlapping flap. Doesn't get any easer. kept me dry in a driving rain storm.
I think I looked at that jacket at MEC last year. Was too heavy for me. I just bought a pair of seamless Coolmax toesocks. I've got two pairs of these that I'll take with me, along with one pair of Smartwool socks--all mini-crew, to below my ankle (so lighter). When I'm not wearing these babies, I'll be wearing just me and sunscreen. I'm taking sandals this time. Sandals and socks...what every (hopelessly un)fashionable person wears about town! Hahaha!
Are you all packed up and ready to go, Dora? Me? More getting ready to go today.
Ponchos---easy on, easy off. Rain coat/pants---hard to get on, hard to get off . You have to take your pack off to put the coat on and off and you have to sit down for the pants. Unless you have Gortex which is expensive and heavy, raincoat/pants don't breath and you will be prone to over heating with exertion. Due to is shape a poncho will let some air circulate to help prevent you from over heating. Yes your lower legs will get wet which could be a issue for some. Your shoes will get wet regardless of rain gear (I wear gortex lined shoes and my feet have stayed dry). Personally, I would go with the poncho . Sorry about the Vespa but I understand your concern.. I use a headlight modulator on my Geezer Glide that causes my headlight go flash high/low while I ride. Knock on wood, no one have ever pulled out in front of me with it on.
Buen Camino Bom Caminho
GEEZER GLIDE????!!!!! Ahahahaha! That's too funny, Tony!(Unless, of course it's not funny then... Oh yes, that's a very good thing to have on your *cough* Geezer Glide... )
Can't post a picture, file is to large. Be rest assured it's not a Hover Round .
Sorry, I'm quoting a recent TV commercial here in the states. It's a electric cart/wheelchair. In my opinion it's the leading cause of death of senior citizens today.What is a Hover Round? Is that a disc-shaped UFO or something? Hahaha!
Yes DEATH by chocolate, a good way to go and a tasty death.That and over indulging in chocolate Ovaltine. That stuff'll get ya every time!
OK, how's this for a small world story:
DoratheExplorer (aka Patti) sent me a note, telling me she knows a man named Steve from PEI. She's out west just north of Vancouver, in Whistler. Turns out Steve is Stephen to me, and someone who I went all through junior high school and high school with here on PEI! This forum is really a connection point, isn't it?!
I like chocolate ovaltine... Although I have not had it since maybe the last time I wore multi- coloured toes socks...
Yes DEATH by chocolate, a good way to go and a tasty death.
What!Tony, IF ever you are in Moncton, New Brunswick (the province of), head straight to (do not pass Go, do not collect $200) Staples Pharmacy on St George Street. You will certainly have death by chocolate... The back half of the store is a homeopathic/naturopathic pharmacy (since the 1920s, I think). The front half of the store is all chocolate. You can buy a candy bar like a Twix or Mars bar for $1. You can buy a Godiva or Lindt bar for $5. You can buy chocolate of every type and brand and taste from $.50 to $50! Death by chocolate, completely and indeedily dee dee!
What!Chocolate is not a Homeopathic remedy!
The homeopathic store here only sell wild mountain weed and I don't have any use for it. Have a safe and sane Caminho adventure.Why yes, yes it is. That's why it's in a homeopathic pharmacy! Get only into the chocolate section and you don't need anything else!
Yeah, stick with the quick dry wicking pants, Patti; you could leave the rain for 1/2 hour and the pants will dry. And you will take breaks and leave the rain: breakfast cafe con leche. Morning break cafe con leche. Lunch cafe con leche. Midafternoon cafe con leche. High tea cafe con leche. Supper cafe con leche... Hahaha!
A reminder about the dry wicking pants: My REI, Columbia, and LL Bean all have zip-off lowers. When I have run into rain, I could remove them to dry (or to not get so wet when the weather was warm). I'm a poncho fellow, too!
Pancho Caminho.....
The homeopathic store here only sell wild mountain weed and I don't have any use for it. Have a safe and sane Caminho adventure.
Please, please do not miss staying for the night at Casa Fernanda, the best albergue in the world. The munis in de Porrino and de Rodondela are really great as well.
Just writing those down. Thanks for the tips, Don! (PS, where is Casa Fernanda located?)
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