Suggestions for a 2-Week Camino Invierno Itinerary in May

[fenix]

Me and a friend are walking the Camino Invierno in May of this year. This will be my seventh camino since 2000, but first time on the Invierno. This is the first camino ever for my friend (but she is a strong hiker).

We have an inflexible 14-day window of time, we are slower walkers, and of course, the Invierno has some stage/accommodation limits. So I created a more structured itinerary with some bookings, more so than I would normally do on a longer, or solo, camino.

I used the forum 2019 guide, Brierley (2020), and Gronze (the most up to date post-pandemic source). And I'm working my way through the wonderfully helpful threads here. But I would love some other experienced eyes and input on it, particularly those who've walked it in the past year.

May2023 14-day Proposed Invierno Itinerary

Thanks for any and all help!

 

[Flog]

The invierno is wonderful!

The newly renovated albergue in Villavieja is fantastic, but there is only a microwave and no tienda or anything. Make sure to bring some food.. and check with the ayuntamiento for the key code the day before!! About an hour or so out of Ponferrada, before the steep climb towards Villavieja, the bar in Toral de Merayo is a good place to stop and have breakfast or lunch. If you have energy left after your first day, you could climb up to the castle in the evening and watch the sunset. The road snakes ahead, down past the slate quarry, where you are headed next morning..

Only other place on your itinerary I've stayed is Carpinteiras in Rodeiro.. Nice clean place, spacious dorms with busy restaurant/bar downstairs. I found it very loud and busy with locals early in the morning too, but there are some other options as you walk downhill and out of town..
Enjoy!!

It's 18 months since I walked it

 

[C clearly]

I walked in May-June 2022 and took 14 days. Here are some comments:

1. On Day 1, you could walk 5 km further, to Borrenes, to give a little extra time the next day to explore Las Médulas. You could choose to skip past Villavieja to shorten that first day. It is a nice walk to Villavieja, but not as unique as Las Médulas, if you need to choose.
2. The train from A Rúa to Montefurado is quite convenient and runs at a good time fairly early in the morning.
3. If accommodation isn't available in A Ponte/Barxo do Lor, you would need to do Salcedo. In the end, I ended up shortening that stretch by taxi, and then walked to Monforte.
4. Your day from Montecello to Chantada is very short. You could walk an extra 5.8 km to what Brierley calls the Cruce A Lucenza option, and stay at Hotel Vilaseco. (This would also ease your next day.) Manuel is very friendly, and he has both private hotel rooms and 2 or 3 larger albergue rooms that are very good value. The website here gives several options for making reservations, even including Booking.com, but I can't find the right details on Booking, so maybe he isn't using it now. I'd suggest using the direct method, or email, or WhatsApp at 680 88 11 55.

I hope this helps.

 

[peregrina2000]

A few comments, even though it’s been a few years since my last Invierno.

You must be aware that you are walking through a UNESCO World Heritage Site at Las Médulas. Some people don’t want to do any touring while walking a camino, though, and I totally get that, but I raise it just in case you didn’t know that. It is a pretty eerie/spectacular/interesting place, both to walk all over and to visit the museum and then walk through an actual gallery where the water once flowed that blew the guts out of the mountain. You can easily fill a long afternoon with a visit.

I think the rest of your stages are pretty “standard,” and you are so lucky to be able to experience the Diomondi albergue. It just looks great!

You could add a few kms to your day into Chantada and even out the day to Rodeiro more by going on to Hotel Vilaseco, but it’s out in the middle of nowhere I think. People do like it and say the owners are very accommodating. Chantada is a big-ish town with all the services, but not a whole heck of a lot to see or do. But more to do than at the Hotel Vilaseco

 

[fenix]

I walked in May-June 2022 and took 14 days. Here are some comments:

1. On Day 1, you could walk 5 km further, to Borrenes, to give a little extra time the next day to explore Las Médulas. You could choose to skip past Villavieja to shorten that first day. It is a nice walk to Villavieja, but not as unique as Las Médulas, if you need to choose.

A few comments, even though it’s been a few years since my last Invierno.

You must be aware that you are walking through a UNESCO World Heritage Site at Las Médulas. Some people don’t want to do any touring while walking a camino, though, and I totally get that, but I raise it just in case you didn’t know that. It is a pretty eerie/spectacular/interesting place, both to walk all over and to visit the museum and then walk through an actual gallery where the water once flowed that blew the guts out of the mountain. You can easily fill a long afternoon with a visit.

I would love to spend more time in Las Medulas by shortening the second day of walking. I'm having trouble though with accommodation in Borrenes. The Cornatel Medulas (Marisol?) website request and email both bounced back as undeliverable, and they are not on WhatsApp. Any ideas? Are they even still open?

 

[fenix]

1. Your day from Montecello to Chantada is very short. You could walk an extra 5.8 km to what Brierley calls the Cruce A Lucenza option, and stay at Hotel Vilaseco. (This would also ease your next day.) Manuel is very friendly, and he has both private hotel rooms and 2 or 3 larger albergue rooms that are very good value. The website here gives several options for making reservations, even including Booking.com, but I can't find the right details on Booking, so maybe he isn't using it now. I'd suggest using the direct method, or email, or WhatsApp at 680 88 11 55.

I hope this helps.

You could add a few kms to your day into Chantada and even out the day to Rodeiro more by going on to Hotel Vilaseco, but it’s out in the middle of nowhere I think. People do like it and say the owners are very accommodating. Chantada is a big-ish town with all the services, but not a whole heck of a lot to see or do. But more to do than at the Hotel Vilaseco

Fantastic idea! Looking into making that change now.

 

[Theatregal]

You could stop in Las Medulas and stay at the Complejo Rural Agoga - it's a wonderful place to stay. Villavieja to Las Medulas is about 14 km. After Villavieja, I stopped to explore Castillo de Cornatel (opens at 11am and is free for pilgrims) and still arrived early afternoon in Las Medulas with time to explore.

Inicio alojamientos rurales y restaurante en las Médulas - Rural Agoga

Inicio Rural Agoga con presentación de nuestros alojamientos rurales y restaurante en el corazón de las Médulas, el Bierzo

ruralagoga.es

 

[fenix]

You could stop in Las Medulas and stay at the Complejo Rural Agoga - it's a wonderful place to stay. Villavieja to Las Medulas is about 14 km. After Villavieja, I stopped to explore Castillo de Cornatel (opens at 11am and is free for pilgrims) and still arrived early afternoon in Las Medulas with time to explore.

I like the idea, but as far as I've figured out, that throws off the next stages after Las Medulas. We like to keep things under 25km, closer to 20 max when possible.

 

[fenix]

By the way, is there backpack transport service on the Invierno?

Does anyone have a name and contact info?

 

[C clearly]

I would love to spend more time in Las Medulas by shortening the second day of walking. I'm having trouble though with accommodation in Borrenes.

I will suggest a Plan B, somewhat similar to what I did. Are you taking GPS/KML tracks with you, and do you have tracks that you study on Google Earth during planning?

1. Stay in Villavieja as planned.
2. Walk to Borrenes
3. Instead of following the Camino (grey line on the image) towards Carucedo, walk on country dirt road past La Chana, then on the quiet asphalt road to the "Mirador" and on to Orellan. You can follow this on Google Earth streetview, and I can probably find a KML track for it.
4. From Orellan, there are nice well marked trails to the Mirador de Orellan, where you get the best views and can enter the passageways (provided you get there during open hours).
5. Then follow marked trails down to Las Medulas and stay there.

That is not much longer than the Camino path to Las Medulas, but it takes you right by the interesting sights so you don't need to backtrack (uphill) after arriving in the town of Las Medulas. By the way the big Cuevona (closer to the town) was closed last year due to rockfalls, so I was glad I had been able to enter the galleries at the Mirador de Orellan.

That is approximately the route I took, but I made a silly mistake decision and ended up bushwhacking down into an arroyo and emerging from the vegetation on the east side or Orellan. It was rather funny, once it all ended well. I can give you the exact information of where not to go wrong.

 

[C clearly]

By the way, is there backpack transport service on the Invierno?

This thread answers that question.

 

[fenix]

I will suggest a Plan B, somewhat similar to what I did. Are you taking GPS/KML tracks with you, and do you have tracks that you study on Google Earth during planning?

1. Stay in Villavieja as planned.
2. Walk to Borrenes
3. Instead of following the Camino (grey line on the image) towards Carucedo, walk on country dirt road past La Chana, then on the quiet asphalt road to the "Mirador" and on to Orellan. You can follow this on Google Earth streetview, and I can probably find a KML track for it.
4. From Orellan, there are nice well marked trails to the Mirador de Orellan, where you get the best views and can enter the passageways (provided you get there during open hours).
5. Then follow marked trails down to Las Medulas and stay there.

That is not much longer than the Camino path to Las Medulas, but it takes you right by the interesting sights so you don't need to backtrack (uphill) after arriving in the town of Las Medulas. By the way the big Cuevona (closer to the town) was closed last year due to rockfalls, so I was glad I had been able to enter the galleries at the Mirador de Orellan.

That is approximately the route I took, but I made a silly mistake decision and ended up bushwhacking down into an arroyo and emerging from the vegetation on the east side or Orellan. It was rather funny, once it all ended well. I can give you the exact information of where not to go wrong.View attachment 139481

This sounds like a really interesting alternative. I wasn't planning to stay in Las Medulas, though. The next accommodations are another 10km further, I believe?

 

[C clearly]

This sounds like a really interesting alternative. I wasn't planning to stay in Las Medulas, though. The next accommodations are another 10km further, I believe?

Oh, right, I forgot. Yes the next accommodations are 10 km further. You could consider taking a taxi from Las Medulas to Puente de Domingo Flores to catch up with your plans, if you can't do that distance.

 

[SuedeCrush]

As others have said, your day from Diomondi-Chantada is quite short. I'd also recommend going a little further to the Hotel Vilaseco to make the next day into Rodeiro a little easier. I did that stage this past July, and I want to say we were at the hotel by 2pm after leaving Diomondi around 8 and stopping to get our daily cafe con leche and chocolate napolitana and hit a grocery store in Chantada. My little group was not moving quickly, especially going up out of Belesar in the midst of the heat wave they were having.

It's an easy 5/6km to the hotel past Chantada, but it is all by itself in the middle of nowhere. The owner is very friendly, I fondly remember the cigar he gave me to enjoy on the patio after a wonderful dinner.

 

[peregrina2000]

This sounds like a really interesting alternative. I wasn't planning to stay in Las Medulas, though. The next accommodations are another 10km further, I believe?

I don’t see any good way to change your itinerary to keep the stages in your range and add a stop in Las Médulas. Unless you think you might want to try cutting out what I assume is a “jet lag day” in Ponferrada. Since the best ways to get over jet lag are sunshine, aerobic activity, and fresh air (at least according to Rick Steves), walking on that next day might be just the thing.

I think it was 2012 or so when I decided to give it a try, rather than keep with my typical routine of having a jet lag day in the town where I planned to start walking. I was so surprised to find that, for me anyway, getting up and walking got me right into the swing. None of that sort of dead lump feeling that I would typically have when I tried to sleep in and get over the time change. Since you have a relatively short day to Villavieja, you could leave later in the morning after buying food, etc. Then the next day to Las Médulas and the Casa Rural Agoga would be another day with low km totals, and plenty of time to visit.

Just a thought. I don’t know how keen you are to visit Las Médulas, and that’s obviously another factor.

 

[El Cascayal]

By the way, is there backpack transport service on the Invierno?

Does anyone have a name and contact info?

Manuel Mar of Bar Mar in Sobradelo does bag transport +34 988 335 106 WhatsApp +34 639 241 939 Casamar988@gmail.com. PS: he is prompt, reliable and best prices.
Correos Paq mochila is also available on the on the Camino de Invierno on request at paqmochila@correos.com.
Taxi Angel mochilas WhatsApp +34 629 035774

 

[jennysa]

Me and a friend are walking the Camino Invierno in May of this year. This will be my seventh camino since 2000, but first time on the Invierno. This is the first camino ever for my friend (but she is a strong hiker).

We have an inflexible 14-day window of time, we are slower walkers, and of course, the Invierno has some stage/accommodation limits. So I created a more structured itinerary with some bookings, more so than I would normally do on a longer, or solo, camino.

I used the forum 2019 guide, Brierley (2020), and Gronze (the most up to date post-pandemic source). And I'm working my way through the wonderfully helpful threads here. But I would love some other experienced eyes and input on it, particularly those who've walked it in the past year.

May2023 14-day Proposed Invierno Itinerary

Thanks for any and all help!

I found your proposed itinerary interesting and very useful. I have also walked many Caminos but not the Invierno. I am starting on 22 April and am being joined by a friend at Montforte de Lemos by a friend who has also never walked the Camino, so I will be taking it slowly for her when she joins me.

 

[El Cascayal]

walk on country dirt road past La Chana, then on the quiet asphalt road to the "Mirador" and on to Orellan. You can follow this on Google Earth streetview

My first stage in November 2021 was Ponferrada to Orellan 25 km/15.4 mi. There was no lodging or bar available in Borrenes. Gronze now shows Casa Rural Cornatel there. From Borrenes there is a nice walk to Chana and from there a beautiful wooded trail to Orellan approximately 4km away. The route is nicely visible on the Buen Camino app map from Borrenes. Google maps as C clearly noted is easy and good to follow. I stayed at *O Palleiro do Pe do Forno San Pablo, 2 Orellán. A little pricey but clean and comfortable, great hosts, meals, and views, and a short morning walk to Mirador de Orellan. Incredible place to be and to not miss.

 

[VNwalking]

The Cornatel Medulas (Marisol?) website request and email both bounced back as undeliverable, and they are not on WhatsApp. Any ideas? Are they even still open?

A pity if they are closed. I stayed there in 2019 and it was perfect - walking the short stage the next day to Las Medulas, and having all afternoon there to poke around. Really worth it!

As Laurie suggests, perhaps ditch the jetlag day in Ponferrada.

My stages for the first few days were Borrenes-Las Medulas-Sobradelo-A Rua, but since you need to have the two nights in O Barco for the train that might not work so well.

But Borrenes to PDF (rather than Villavieja) would allow you to enjoy more of Las Medulas. If you have hill legs and are starting the day in Borrenes, do consider walking via Orellan. You could stay up above Las Medulas and see some of the most interesting parts of the site that way without needing to detour.

I'm on a glacially slow connection, but the following is from post 113 on this thread:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/planning-a-25-km-or-less-camino-on-the-invierno.69233/page-2#post-895603

Sorry, Laurie, just re-posting the following paragraph here, for anyone who's a bit adventurous. If you stay in Orellan, it's completely possible to continue directly to Puente de Domingo Flores without stopping in Las Medulas, going across the top of the ancient mine without dropping down into the town. Those of us who might be walking the Invierno a second (or third or fourth!) time might be particularly interested in this option.

My OSMand map tells me there're two CRs in Orellan. So you could get up to the Mirador and galleries early in the morning and then continue on to the Mirador de Pedrices, from there intersecting the Camino where it continues to PdDF. Here's a map with the 2 miradors as the two intermediate points, and the intersection of the Camino as the endpoint. It would certainly save you the knee busting descent into town, which in places is quite steep.

Mirador Pedrices, which is about .5 km off-camino. If you’ve seen it from Orellán, this is a poor second.

This is certainly true in the morning when most people see it, but in late afternoon or evening it must be spectacular. I first learned about Las Medulas from a stunning poster of this morning view that is in the albergue at La Faba

 

[peregrina2000]

The Cornatel Medulas (Marisol?) website request and email both bounced back as undeliverable

Their website calendar for reservations shows some days in January as blocked out in red, so it looks like they are open and in business. But I’m assuming that you have tried to reserve a room for the night you’re interested in. I would try again, because Gronze is pretty reliable and shows them open. The man in the pair is very active in the local Invierno business association, so I would be surprised if they’ve closed.

 

[henrythedog]

Lovely avatar.

Would you care to share the story? No pressure - obviously.

 

[fenix]

Lovely avatar.

Would you care to share the story? No pressure - obviously.

I just love the symbolism and lore of the phoenix, on both a mythological and a personal level. I considered it my "unofficial" hiker name and used it as my avatar.

It became my official hiker name on the first day of my 2017 Mozarabe camino, on the trail alone, just at the outskirts of Almeria. A guy from Tasmania had seen my information gathering posts here on the forum and made a last minute decision to walk the Mozarabe. (I had not seen his last minute post.) I heard a call from way behind me - "Hey, are you Fenix?" - which floored me. And suddenly, my expected to be lonely Mozarabe camino was no longer lonely and my hiker name had become official.

 

[fenix]

I don’t see any good way to change your itinerary to keep the stages in your range and add a stop in Las Médulas.

Thanks for confirming that. I didn't think I could make that work, but kept toying with it.

I think it was 2012 or so when I decided to give it a try, rather than keep with my typical routine of having a jet lag day in the town where I planned to start walking. I was so surprised to find that, for me anyway, getting up and walking got me right into the swing. None of that sort of dead lump feeling that I would typically have when I tried to sleep in and get over the time change. Since you have a relatively short day to Villavieja, you could leave later in the morning after buying food, etc. Then the next day to Las Médulas and the Casa Rural Agoga would be another day with low km totals, and plenty of time to visit.

Just a thought. I don’t know how keen you are to visit Las Médulas, and that’s obviously another factor.

I hear you, and don't disagree. But we aren't getting into Ponferrada until after 10:30pm and then have to hunt down our accommodation. Maybe asleep by midnight?

I'm not even concerned about a jet lag day this camino so much, but would like to enjoy a relaxing day before we start. I haven't been to Ponferrada since my 2000 Camino Frances. And my companion is a newbie and I want her to enjoy the rituals and anticipation of "the day before".

 

[fenix]

I found your proposed itinerary interesting and very useful. I have also walked many Caminos but not the Invierno. I am starting on 22 April and am being joined by a friend at Montforte de Lemos by a friend who has also never walked the Camino, so I will be taking it slowly for her when she joins me.

How funny! A parallel experience! I'm glad my obsessive planning is helpful to others.

Funny thing is, my friend and I are both 5'2'' and in our 50's. I have far more camino and general hiking experience than her. But she's actually a bit stronger and faster than me. (Let's just say she beat me up Kilimanjaro) I'll be holding her back!

She is the one most keen on not carrying our packs though. (Thanks all for the Bar Mar info everyone!) So between using a pack service and a healthy mix of private accommodations, I've been informally referring to this as our "I'm too old for this sh*t" Camino.

 

[fenix]

OK, let me see if I have all this wonderful info right regarding my first 2 days:

1) We will walk ~21km to Borrenes and stay at Hotel Cornatel Medulas - they did respond earlier today to my website request.
2) We will walk ~16-17km from Borrenes to Puente de Florez on the second day
3) We have a choice of 2 routes from Borrenes - either via Carucedo or via Orellan - both are ~7-8km
4) The Orellan route seems to be the better choice for scenic and cultural reasons?
5) Spend time in Las Medulas - a must! - before heading on to Puente de Florez

Did I get this right?

I have updated my Google Doc linked in the OP to reflect this change, as well as the change to push past Chantada to Hotel Vilaseco.

 

[C clearly]

Did I get this right?

Generally, yes, and it sounds good to me. I would point out that the town of Las Medulas itself does not have a lot to entertain you, other than the visitor centre. The interesting stuff is outside the town - either on the way in from Orellan, or walking back up in that direction. As I mentioned before, the impressive Cuevona (which is closer to the town) was closed to entry last year.

Here is a website with information and hours at the galleries by the Mirador de Orellan. The official camino does not go there.

 

[fenix]

Generally, yes, and it sounds good to me. I would point out that the town of Las Medulas itself does not have a lot to entertain you, other than the visitor centre. The interesting stuff is outside the town - either on the way in from Orellan, or walking back up in that direction. As I mentioned before, the impressive Cuevona (which is closer to the town) was closed to entry last year.

Here is a website with information and hours at the galleries by the Mirador de Orellan. The official camino does not go there.

Oh, OK, so the experience of Las Medulas will be as much, if not more so, in the walk through Orellan as in the town itself. This is so helpful.

Weird though, the website you linked does not mention April/May. I hope it's not closed then!

 

[VNwalking]

Oh, OK, so the experience of Las Medulas will be as much, if not more so, in the walk through Orellan as in the town itself. This is so helpful.

Weird though, the website you linked does not mention April/May. I hope it's not closed then!

I agree with @C clearly .
The main thing in town is the visitor center. The views and tunnel at the Mirador Orellan are most impressive.

If you walk via Orellan you do not need to go down the town after the Mirador but can continue on top to the second mirador, then intersect the official camino as it heads to PDF. I'm on a slow connection so can't link to the post, but the planning thread I quoted above has a map.

 

[fenix]

Can anyone point me to GPX/KML tracks for this Orellan variant, including the option to bypass the descent into Las Medulas?

 

[peregrina2000]

Weird though, the website you linked does not mention April/May.

I think this is the correct calendar.

Can anyone point me to GPX/KML tracks for this Orellan variant, including the option to bypass the descent into Las Medulas?

This thread on the alternative way up from Borrenes has links to some wikiloc tracks.

After the mirador de Orellán, you will want to avoid the descent, and you’ll find a path that takes you to the other (definitely the second best) mirador. From there it’s a short walk to the camino, which will have come up from the town below.

 

[peregrina2000]

And here’s a map of the trails in Médulas. You can see that from the Orellaln mirador to Pedrices, you will stay on the red trail (you can see the squiggly trail that connects the red to the green trail. That’s the trail down to the town, it’s through a beautiful forest filled with chestnuts, but you don’t want to take that. After Pedrices, you can see the trail merges with the trail coming up from town and then it continues on the camino. Hope this is clear.

 

[El Cascayal]

Laurie, I last walked this route in November 2021. From the town of Orellan to el mirador de Orellan is a very well marked ascent. From there you descend around the mountain over dirt trails leading to Mirador de Las Pedrices. From there you can continue on to Puente de Domingo Flores never needing to go to Las Medulas.

All this back & forth about the , makes me wanna hop a and go!
Aymarah

 

[fenix]

I'm in awe of all of y'all. I am nerding out so hard right now!

Ok, so, advice about the castle....... Is that just an in & out path after Villavieja? Or is there a through-variant?

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm in awe of all of y'all. I am nerding out so hard right now!

Ok, so, advice about the castle....... Is that just an in & out path after Villavieja? Or is there a through-variant?

Nerding out is a great thing to do when the Invierno is involved. We are a pretty fanatical bunch of Invierno enthusiasts here on the forum.

From Villavieja to the castle, it’s an ascent, but not nearly as much as it was from Ponferrada to Villavieja. Villavieja was the town where all the castle’s serfs lived (or so I’ve been told), so they had to walk up and down every day. It’s just a few kms. The camino goes by the entrance to the castle, or within a couple hundred meters. If it’s open, I would go in, but it’s not got a whole lot to see inside.

From the castle to Borrenes, it’s a descent on the road. There used to be a dirt path descent, but I was told that all the ATVs ruined it, so it’s eroded and impassable.

There is a road alternative that avoids all the ascent to Villavieja and Cornatel, but since you’re going to Villavieja, I don’t think that’s an issue for you. The camino route up to Villavieja is wonderful, with many views of the Cornatel castle high above you. So I would not recommend the road alternative.

 

[C clearly]

This thread on the alternative way up from Borrenes has links to some wikiloc tracks.

The first track linked by @amancio is the one I have.

 

[fenix]

So I google mapped a route from Orellan mirador to Pedrices mirador to Puente de Florez. It seems to follow dirt paths, pretty obvious way? It also seems to dip pretty close to the town of Las Medulas early on. Does anyone think there is more merit to one choice or the other - going thru town back to the official camino vs. staying up on the high route? (Sorry if this has already been answered - I'm getting lost down the rabbit trails! )


ps: I love that google maps thinks I can walk that mountainous 10.1 km in 2hrs 11min.

From Villavieja to the castle, it’s an ascent, but not nearly as much as it was from Ponferrada to Villavieja. Villavieja was the town where all the castle’s serfs lived (or so I’ve been told), so they had to walk up and down every day. It’s just a few kms. The camino goes by the entrance to the castle, or within a couple hundred meters. If it’s open, I would go in, but it’s not got a whole lot to see inside.

OK, so can't miss it, no alt paths or anything. I hope it will be open to get a stamp!

 

[C clearly]

I don't think I'd worry about skipping the town of Las Medulas. The visitor centre can be interesting, but you can get that information (about the Roman mining techniques) on the internet in advance. The walk and a quick visit to the galleries by the Mirador de Orellan are better.

No, you can't miss the castle entrance.

 

[fenix]

I don't think I'd worry about skipping the town of Las Medulas. The visitor centre can be interesting, but you can get that information (about the Roman mining techniques) on the internet in advance. The walk and a quick visit to the galleries by the Mirador de Orellan are better.

I'm not worried about missing the town of Las Medulas anymore. We'll definitely walk the Orellan route. Just wondering about opinions on the best or most interesting way - the high road or the low road - to proceed from there - based on distance, difficulty, scenery, culture, safety, etc.

 

[C clearly]

the high road or the low road

I took the path downhill into the town, and quite enjoyed it. If I remember correctly, it was rather steep at times. I don't know what the other route is like, but it might involve less elevation changing.

 

[VNwalking]

Can anyone point me to GPX/KML tracks for this Orellan variant, including the option to bypass the descent into Las Medulas?

Perhaps Wikiloc will have one, but I can easily and happily make one for you with OSMand, @fenix. A bit busy now, but I can get to it next week.

 

[fenix]

Perhaps Wikiloc will have one, but I can easily and happily make one for you with OSMand, @fenix. A bit busy now, but I can get to it next week.

That is so kind of you, thanks!

I am so directionally challenged. If it weren't for gps maps, I'd probably still be wandering aimlessly around southern Spain (from 2017)

But I'm also a bit tech challenged. I've figured out how to Google for gpx/kml tracks and throw them into my Guru Pro app.

So any help is appreciated!

---

By the way, to anyone reading this, I always keep a live journal/photo album on a private app called TripCast when I walk. (I don't really publicly social media) I'll happily send an invitation to join to anyone who is interested when May finally gets here.

 

[VNwalking]

Ok, so, advice about the castle....... Is that just an in & out path after Villavieja? Or is there a through-variant?

We Invierno nerds like that.
It's right on the camino, and the part between there and Villavieja is especially nice.

Will get to that track as I can. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[jennysa]

How funny! A parallel experience! I'm glad my obsessive planning is helpful to others.

Funny thing is, my friend and I are both 5'2'' and in our 50's. I have far more camino and general hiking experience than her. But she's actually a bit stronger and faster than me. (Let's just say she beat me up Kilimanjaro) I'll be holding her back!

She is the one most keen on not carrying our packs though. (Thanks all for the Bar Mar info everyone!) So between using a pack service and a healthy mix of private accommodations, I've been informally referring to this as our "I'm too old for this sh*t" Camino.

I am 78 and my friend is 72. I have told her she has to carry her backpack and bring her sleeping bag.

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm not worried about missing the town of Las Medulas anymore. We'll definitely walk the Orellan route. Just wondering about opinions on the best or most interesting way - the high road or the low road - to proceed from there - based on distance, difficulty, scenery, culture, safety, etc.

If you look back at that map I posted, you can see the options in a schematic way. Staying on the red trail keeps you up. You can go down to town either on the squiggly green-ish trail or later on on the purple/blue trail. The red trail stays on the perimeter and at the point where it says “yeres” must be the point where the camino separates off. If you are in the center of town, the camino leaves town on the red trail and then keeps going to the right. There is a sign on the camino leaving town that points to the Mirador de Pedrices and I think it says 500 m, but I can’t remember.

@El Cascayal walked this “upper route” recently — see her post 32 in this thread.

From the town of Orellan to el mirador de Orellan is a very well marked ascent. From there you descend around the mountain over dirt trails leading to Mirador de Las Pedrices.

@El Cascayal, do you have an idea of the distance from the mirador de Orellán to the mirador de las Pedrices? That’s the missing link for being able to estimate whether it’s shorter to take the upper trail or to go down to town from the mirador de Orellan and then to continue on to Puente Domingo Flórez.

I don’t have a good sense of the difference in terms of length between the “upper” and the “lower” because I have never walked through Las Médulas but always spend the night there and then go walking around. The last time I walked the Invierno, though, I did follow Amancio’s suggestions to go through the town of Orellán and from there onto the mirador, but I then went straight into town from to the Agoga, which is a very nice place to stay.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Me and a friend are walking the Camino Invierno in May of this year. This will be my seventh camino since 2000, but first time on the Invierno. This is the first camino ever for my friend (but she is a strong hiker).

We have an inflexible 14-day window of time, we are slower walkers, and of course, the Invierno has some stage/accommodation limits. So I created a more structured itinerary with some bookings, more so than I would normally do on a longer, or solo, camino.

I used the forum 2019 guide, Brierley (2020), and Gronze (the most up to date post-pandemic source). And I'm working my way through the wonderfully helpful threads here. But I would love some other experienced eyes and input on it, particularly those who've walked it in the past year.

May2023 14-day Proposed Invierno Itinerary

Thanks for any and all help!

Hi,

In recent years I have had trouble getting a room in Pensión Fabio in A Rua, where you want to stay according to your planning. They are always full. But this has been in July. Maybe it is easier for you in May. I think you should book well in advance. According to Gronze it is still 25 euros.

/BP

 

[fenix]

If you look back at that map I posted, you can see the options in a schematic way. Staying on the red trail keeps you up. You can go down to town either on the squiggly green-ish trail or later on on the purple/blue trail. The red trail stays on the perimeter and at the point where it says “yeres” must be the point where the camino separates off. If you are in the center of town, the camino leaves town on the red trail and then keeps going to the right. There is a sign on the camino leaving town that points to the Mirador de Pedrices and I think it says 500 m, but I can’t remember.

@El Cascayal walked this “upper route” recently — see her post 32 in this thread.

Yeah, I wasn't sure about the Yeres and where it led. But after I Google mapped it thru Orellan and Pedrices, and took another look at El Cascayal's pics, including some signage, I'm getting a clearer picture.

Y'all are being so patient with my ADHD monkey brain.

I'll just leave the rest to following the day where it leads once that day finally gets here.

 

[fenix]

Hi,

In recent years I have had trouble getting a room in Pensión Fabio in A Rua, where you want to stay according to your planning. They are always full. But this has been in July. Maybe it is easier for you in May. I think you should book well in advance. According to Gronze it is still 25 euros.

/BP

I sent them a request thru their website but got no response. A few days later I Whatsapped, and the message was read, but still no response. That was 3 days ago.

I'll try email next, but it's bit discouraging. I'll definitely book something else if I still don't hear back soon, but I liked the low price and good reviews.

 

[El Cascayal]

do you have an idea of the distance from the mirador de Orellán to the mirador de las Pedrices?

According to google maps. There are 2 marked trails from Mirador de Orellan to Las Pedrices. 2.9 km. Google maps lets you see pictures down both these trails. It’s pretty cool to see. I will have to research my pictures. Off hand I can’t remember which trail I walked. All I remember it was gorgeous, misty, well marked.
And now, thanks to Fénix and all the rest of you I am completely homesick, again, for the .

 

[fenix]

And now, thanks to Fénix and all the rest of you I am completely homesick, again, for the .

Well, what's stopping you? If you need walking companions, you know where I'll be. I'm an open book obsessive Google doc.

 

[El Cascayal]

I've been informally referring to this as our "I'm too old for this sh*t" Camino.

Aren’t we all! I can’t stop laughing over this and don’t know how I first missed it.
We are all so totally now obsessing with you. Collective Invierno obsessing. How absolutely fabulous. In 2021, I was also pretty nuts about this stage. I was so happy to go from Borrenes to overnight in Orellan. We had the Mirador all to ourselves in the morning. The actual visit to the cave doesn’t open until 11 am. It is a large park, very well marked and very easy to get to Las Pedrices and shortly after this is the crossroads sign to Las Medulas ( picture previously posted). Self explanatory once you’re there no need to overthink it.
You are going to love it. Fénix, I’m sending you my cell phone number in pm. Call me already! You are in Texas, I am in Miami. We are all on the Camino in our minds. “In my mind, I’m going to the Camino…Going to the Camino in my mind…
I hope this was a proper use of the ellipsis, subject of an earlier post this week.

 

[C clearly]

The funny thing is that I don't consider myself part of the club of raving Invierno fanatics. My experience was good but no more special than other routes, and not my favourite by any means. However, it is a nice little package to discuss and plan without getting overwhelmed.

 

[El Cascayal]

I don't consider myself part of the club of raving Invierno fanatics.

Oops, welcome to the Club.

 

[VNwalking]

Will get to that track as I can. Maybe tomorrow.

Does this open on your map app, @fenix ?

 

[fenix]

Does this open on your map app, @fenix ?

It does! Thank you!

 

[VNwalking]

View attachment 139613
It does! Thank you!

Super!

 

[jennysa]

According to google maps. There are 2 marked trails from Mirador de Orellan to Las Pedrices. 2.9 km. Google maps lets you see pictures down both these trails. It’s pretty cool to see. I will have to research my pictures. Off hand I can’t remember which trail I walked. All I remember it was gorgeous, misty, well marked.
And now, thanks to Fénix and all the rest of you I am completely homesick, again, for the .

I have been to Las Medulas twice - its spectacular but have not been to Las Pedrices. Its a difficult decision which one to miss

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I sent them a request thru their website but got no response. A few days later I Whatsapped, and the message was read, but still no response. That was 3 days ago.

I'll try email next, but it's bit discouraging. I'll definitely book something else if I still don't hear back soon, but I liked the low price and good reviews.

Fabio is really my no 1 place to go and the reviews are very accurate! To me they always responded immediately (but I contact them by phone). Sadly, as I mentioned, they have been full the past few years when I have tried. Other places in A Rúa include: O Pillabán (reportedly good) and Hostal Niza. Hostal Niza doesn't admit reviews on Gronze. It is 25 euros, like Fabio, but very basic. I have stayed there twice and it is ok.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Me and a friend are walking the Camino Invierno in May of this year. This will be my seventh camino since 2000, but first time on the Invierno. This is the first camino ever for my friend (but she is a strong hiker).

We have an inflexible 14-day window of time, we are slower walkers, and of course, the Invierno has some stage/accommodation limits. So I created a more structured itinerary with some bookings, more so than I would normally do on a longer, or solo, camino.

I used the forum 2019 guide, Brierley (2020), and Gronze (the most up to date post-pandemic source). And I'm working my way through the wonderfully helpful threads here. But I would love some other experienced eyes and input on it, particularly those who've walked it in the past year.

May2023 14-day Proposed Invierno Itinerary

Thanks for any and all help!

I saw that you made a note of an albergue that would open March 31st in Pobra do Brollón. That would be fantastic news: Invierno pilgrims have waited a long time for this. Where did you get this info? I don't see it on Gronze. Gronze says "an albergue is planned to open in 2022" but we are in 2023 now...

I am asking for purely egotistical reasons as I will be heading that way this summer...

 

[fenix]

Fabio is really my no 1 place to go and the reviews are very accurate! To me they always responded immediately (but I contact them by phone). Sadly, as I mentioned, they have been full the past few years when I have tried. Other places in A Rúa include: O Pillabán (reportedly good) and Hostal Niza. Hostal Niza doesn't admit reviews on Gronze. It is 25 euros, like Fabio, but very basic. I have stayed there twice and it is ok.

I saw on Gronze that Niza asked that their reviews be taken down. So I noped out of that one. I went ahead and made a 50euro dbl room reservation over WhatsApp with O Pillaban, but will cancel if Fabio gets back to me with a better rate.

I saw that you made a note of an albergue that would open March 31st in Pobra do Brollón. That would be fantastic news: Invierno pilgrims have waited a long time for this. Where did you get this info? I don't see it on Gronze. Gronze says "an albergue is planned to open in 2022" but we are in 2023 now...

I am asking for purely egotistical reasons as I will be heading that way this summer...

It was in this recent forum thread, including a link to the newspaper article. I hope it comes true!

 

[fenix]

You are going to love it. Fénix, I’m sending you my cell phone number in pm. Call me already! You are in Texas, I am in Miami. We are all on the Camino in our minds. “In my mind, I’m going to the Camino…Going to the Camino in my mind…
I hope this was a proper use of the ellipsis, subject of an earlier post this week.

Not to reopen an earlier conflict - but I will anyway - it is not possible to overuse ellipses...... or em dashes.

As the kids on the intertubes say, fight me.

 

[El Cascayal]

It was in this recent forum thread, including a link to the newspaper article. I hope it comes true!

This was so funny to me, when I clicked on the thread, I was the one who posted it. Since then, I am not aware of any newspaper updates or chatter on the Peregrino waves. When this Albergue, long in the making opens, it will be a wonderful option, as occurred with the long awaited Diomondi. In lieu of A Pobra I most highly recommend Casa Pacita in Barxa de Lor.

 

[fenix]

This was so funny to me, when I clicked on the thread, I was the one who posted it. Since then, I am not aware of any newspaper updates or chatter on the Peregrino waves. When this Albergue, long in the making opens, it will be a wonderful option, as occurred with the long awaited Diomondi. In lieu of A Pobra I most highly recommend Casa Pacita in Barxa de Lor.

I was looking at Casa Pacita, but couldn't find any way to contact them to insure they are still open. Do you have a WhatsApp number or email for them?

I hope the Pobra albergue option opens on schedule, but this thread has gotten me comfortable enough with the Salcedo option, and not having to rely on a ride from the surly host, if necessary.

 

[El Cascayal]

Pension Casa Pacita Jose Luis WhatsApp 34 982 430 008
pensionpacita@hotmail.com
Salcedo, also experienced surly and would not personally stop there again.

 

[El Cascayal]

Serendipitously just found this. I hope it works:
Clearly shows route from Borrenes to Orellan and from mirador de Orellan to mirador de las Pedrices.
Google maps of the entire Invierno with alternatives in hot pink. Done by Gary Oliver.

Camino de Invierno - Google My Maps

Trazado de las diferentes etapas y sus variantes o alternativas. Incluye los alojamientos y servicios que nos encontraremos a lo largo de esta ruta de peregrinación.

www.google.com

 

[fenix]

Serendipitously just found this. I hope it works:
Clearly shows route from Borrenes to Orellan and from mirador de Orellan to mirador de las Pedrices.
Google maps of the entire Invierno with alternatives in hot pink. Done by Gary Oliver.

Camino de Invierno - Google My Maps

Trazado de las diferentes etapas y sus variantes o alternativas. Incluye los alojamientos y servicios que nos encontraremos a lo largo de esta ruta de peregrinación.

www.google.com

That's fantastic! It can be downloaded as a KML file too. Can this be added to Invierno resources?

 

[El Cascayal]

Can this be added to Invierno resources?

@Peregrina 2000, where are you?
Don’t know what a KML file is?

 

[fenix]

@Peregrina 2000, where are you?
Don’t know what a KML file is?

It's a tracks file you can download into a GPS offline map app. I tried downloading both the KML and KMZ, and couldn't get either Gaia or Guru Pro to display it. It's still saved in my google maps, but is less useful offline.

Not crucial since the Dutch tracks in Resources are available. But I think @VNwalking is the wiz kid on this topic!

 

[C clearly]

Can this be added to Invierno resources?

We don't have a lot of GPS tracks in the Resources, especially as individual segments showing the multitudes of options. They could present a bit of a management challenge if we tried to collect them - think about how many routes, how many segments, how many alternatives, and all the quality control issues! Probably best to rely on Wikiloc or other sources, with just links and suggestions here on the forum.

There are some other ways we can make the information easier to find on the forum. I'll give it some thought and consult with @peregrina2000.

 

[fenix]

We don't have a lot of GPS tracks in the Resources, especially as individual segments showing the multitudes of options. They could present a bit of a management challenge if we tried to collect them - think about how many routes, how many segments, how many alternatives, and all the quality control issues! Probably best to rely on Wikiloc or other sources, with just links and suggestions here on the forum.

There are some other ways we can make the information easier to find on the forum. I'll give it some thought and consult with @peregrina2000.

Gotcha. I may be misunderstanding, but the Google map El Cascayal posted in #64 is of the entire Invierno - not just a segment - with resources and the Orellan variant included (which isn't in the Dutch tracks). It's a great map.

 

[VNwalking]

So I noped out of that one. edited by a mod to note that fenix is talking about Pensión Niza in A Rúa

I stayed there thought it was just fine. Run by an elderly couple, with old school manners (the Señora knowing French and very talkative ). The interaction with them was a lovely part of my time on the Invierno. It's not a modern, hip, or lively place - but clean and quiet.

 

[jennysa]

Gotcha. I may be misunderstanding, but the Google map El Cascayal posted in #64 is of the entire Invierno - not just a segment - with resources and the Orellan variant included (which isn't in the Dutch tracks). It's a great map.

Yes, it looks amazing - and I liked the alternative route on Day 1 to shorten the route to Las Medulas by cutting out Villaviaja.

 

[El Cascayal]

Day 1 to shorten the route to Las Medulas by cutting out Villaviaja.

The climb to Villavieja is beautiful and if you turn around you can see O Cebreiro in the distance. After Villavieja and before Castillo de Cornatel there is a beautiful ancient gnarled chestnut forest. A wonder and delight. Having seen it I can’t imagine missing it. The alternative likely bypasses the climb. @jennysa, you will love it!

 

[peregrina2000]

50euro dbl room reservation over WhatsApp with O Pillaban,

It’s a very comfortable, clean place with an excellent restaurant downstairs. Its location is more convenient to the camino, in fact it’s right on it before Asún’s house and the church, but the distances are not a big deal in a town like this.

liked the alternative route on Day 1 to shorten the route to Las Medulas by cutting out Villaviaja.

The climb to Villavieja is beautiful

I would only skip the climb to Villavieja and the castle if you are just incapable of making it to your destination. If I had to choose between walking through Villavieja and having time to visit the museum in Las Médulas, for instance, I’d choose Villavieja hands down. As @El Cascayal says, it’s just a beautiful walk, all off-road, and the hamelt of Villavieja itself is quite picturesque.

The views are absolutely great, but are you sure you can see O Cebreiro, @El Cascayal? That’s a long ways away.

 

[fenix]

Yes, it looks amazing - and I liked the alternative route on Day 1 to shorten the route to Las Medulas by cutting out Villaviaja.

Just FYI - this is from Gronze:

1.8 km after Santalla del Bierzo, where the path joins the N-536 national road, the itinerary takes a detour, going up to Villavieja and the Cornatel castle and then going back down to the road. Cyclists usually take said N-536 road to the right, thereby saving the climb and almost 3 km; but we do not recommend this option to pilgrims on foot, as it is a dangerous and twisty road , with hardly any hard shoulders, and we would also lose several precious sections.

 

[VNwalking]

The alternative likely bypasses the climb.

It does.
It was a short stiff climb to Villavieja, but then less intense...and really gorgeous.
View media item 9635

 

[peregrina2000]

is a beautiful ancient gnarled chestnut forest.

VN’s picture above shows one of those gnarled trees. They are awe-inspiring, so many generations of life sprouting out of what looks like a huge dead trunk.

I do not know exactly what the months are for chestnut flowers, but @fenix if you walk when they are flowering, you will be treated to one of the most exotic, intense, pungent smells whose description defies me. I can’t identify many trees, other than corks, chestnuts, and olives, but I can frequently smell the chestnut in flower before I see it and know that I am in for a real treat — because they are beauties. The Bierzo has tons and tons of them, it seems.

And an off-tangent remark to note that chestnuts are almost wiped out in the US, and Overstory is a good read.

 

[fenix]

It's not a modern, hip, or lively place - but clean and quiet.

That's OK, I'm not modern or hip either, and I'd say more spicy than lively.

 

[VNwalking]

I do not know exactly what the months are for chestnut flowers,

They were only in bud when I went by. And they were blooming for you, right? I went by there on June 3rd. So...mid to late June?

 

[fenix]

VN’s picture above shows one of those gnarled trees. They are awe-inspiring, so many generations of life sprouting out of what looks like a huge dead trunk.

I do not know exactly what the months are for chestnut flowers, but @fenix if you walk when they are flowering, you will be treated to one of the most exotic, intense, pungent smells whose description defies me. I can’t identify many trees, other than corks, chestnuts, and olives, but I can frequently smell the chestnut in flower before I see it and know that I am in for a real treat — because they are beauties. The Bierzo has tons and tons of them, it seems.

And an off-tangent remark to note that chestnuts are almost wiped out in the US, and Overstory is a good read.

I love the chestnuts! I can't believe after 6 caminos that I've never encountered them blooming. I hope to change that on the Invierno!

My first Camino though was fall 2000 and chestnuts absolutely littered the ground. On my way up O Cebreiro, just before the snow storm hit, I met a farmer who introduced me to his mother and his new calf, and then offered me a bag of chestnuts and my first marriage proposal. After I broke his heart and made it through the blizzard, I spent a lovely evening in the moldy Cebreiro refugio drying out my boots and roasting chestnuts.

 

[jennysa]

Just FYI - this is from Gronze:

1.8 km after Santalla del Bierzo, where the path joins the N-536 national road, the itinerary takes a detour, going up to Villavieja and the Cornatel castle and then going back down to the road. Cyclists usually take said N-536 road to the right, thereby saving the climb and almost 3 km; but we do not recommend this option to pilgrims on foot, as it is a dangerous and twisty road , with hardly any hard shoulders, and we would also lose several precious sections.

Thank you for that info.

 

[El Cascayal]

but are you sure you can see O Cebreiro

Ok, Laurie, you’ve made me name that tune…this snowy picture is before Villalibre de la Jurisdicion one of the locals said it was O Cebreiro. When you look back from the ascent to Villavieja and on your right on ascent to Cornatel there is a beautiful mountain range.
Here are some more pictures of that gorgeous stretch. Look at all the good and beautiful things in just this one stage! Amazing???
@C clearly, is that you I hear, becoming an super fan?

 

[peregrina2000]

I thought you’d have pictorial proof!!!

 

[jennysa]

Ok, Laurie, you’ve made me name that tune…this snowy picture is before Villalibre de la Jurisdicion one of the locals said it was O Cebreiro. When you look back from the ascent to Villavieja and on your right on ascent to Cornatel there is a beautiful mountain range.
Here are some more pictures of that gorgeous stretch. Look at all the good and beautiful things in just this one stage! Amazing???
@C clearly, is that you I hear, becoming an super fan?
View attachment 139676

Stunning. I cant wait. Roll on 22 April.