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LIVE from the Camino The Camí Sant Jaume from Girona

Tamsin Grainger

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés
De la plata
V v hard day today in 30 degree heat - often no shade for v long stretches (like Mesera). Well sign posted vies verdes /camí San Jaume.
Carrying too much - what to do? Have sleeping bag as scared will get stuck on mountains overnight after Olot. Yes, I know, your fears weigh you down! Tomorrow all uphill and fancy I won't make it to San Esteve d'en Bas where staying at albergue (again unable to book myself though tried and tried, but Girona Tourist Info woman v helpful and phoned for me.
Staying tonight at Restaurant Fonda Giralt - v hard to book - many sites said booked up. In the end the wonderful hospitalero at Bed in Girona (28 euros per night= cheapest in G) phoned on my behalf and sorted it just like that. 30 euros for individual room and own bath. All far, far more expensive than expected by 3 times. Landscape a mix of Camino Frances and Valencia Sierras - mostly wonderful. Especially glad I stopped at La Pilastres, though not far from Girona, and hung my feet in water as was already seriously hot by then.
Even though Sunday, there were quite lot Cafes open along the way though no shops of course. Drinks more expensive than elsewhere.
Any further advice most gratefully received. Off to bed!
 

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Time of past OR future Camino
Primitivo20,Vadiniense+Francés21,CostaPortuguese22
V v hard day today in 30 degree heat - often no shade for v long stretches (like Mesera). Well sign posted vies verdes /camí San Jaume.
Carrying too much - what to do? Have sleeping bag as scared will get stuck on mountains overnight after Olot. Yes, I know, your fears weigh you down! Tomorrow all uphill and fancy I won't make it to San Esteve d'en Bas where staying at albergue (again unable to book myself though tried and tried, but Girona Tourist Info woman v helpful and phoned for me.
Staying tonight at Restaurant Fonda Giralt - v hard to book - many sites said booked up. In the end the wonderful hospitalero at Bed in Girona (28 euros per night= cheapest in G) phoned on my behalf and sorted it just like that. 30 euros for individual room and own bath. All far, far more expensive than expected by 3 times. Landscape a mix of Camino Frances and Valencia Sierras - mostly wonderful. Especially glad I stopped at La Pilastres, though not far from Girona, and hung my feet in water as was already seriously hot by then.
Even though Sunday, there were quite lot Cafes open along the way though no shops of course. Drinks more expensive than elsewhere.
Any further advice most gratefully received. Off to bed!
Hi Tamsin,

When you arrive to Sant Feliu de Pallerols ask for the "Pescallunes".

Legends​

THE PESCALLUNES
It is explained, from time immemorial, that one night in a clear sky and a full moon, a man from Sant Feliu de Llobregat was walking along the river Brugent when he had to stop attracted by the charm, never seen by him until then, that it offered that star which was reflected in all its fullness in the calm waters of the stream. He was so overwhelmed by the beauty of that moon, that it shone so brightly in the darkness of the water, that he was excited to think that he could have it and decided to fish it with a cove. But no matter how much he put the cove in the water and took it off very quickly, he couldn't get it into it.
Someone saw the show and in a mocking tone said to him: what do you want to do? Fishing for the moon ?. Since then, those in Sant Feliu de Pallerols have called us “PESCALLUNES”: people who are excited and have dreams, romantic, with ambition and many projects, people who do not stop, who always look ahead.
 
Time of past OR future Camino
Have walked Camino Frances.
Planning to walk Lisbon - Santiago July 20th, 2014....
V v hard day today in 30 degree heat - often no shade for v long stretches (like Mesera). Well sign posted vies verdes /camí San Jaume.
Carrying too much - what to do? Have sleeping bag as scared will get stuck on mountains overnight after Olot. Yes, I know, your fears weigh you down! Tomorrow all uphill and fancy I won't make it to San Esteve d'en Bas where staying at albergue (again unable to book myself though tried and tried, but Girona Tourist Info woman v helpful and phoned for me.
Staying tonight at Restaurant Fonda Giralt - v hard to book - many sites said booked up. In the end the wonderful hospitalero at Bed in Girona (28 euros per night= cheapest in G) phoned on my behalf and sorted it just like that. 30 euros for individual room and own bath. All far, far more expensive than expected by 3 times. Landscape a mix of Camino Frances and Valencia Sierras - mostly wonderful. Especially glad I stopped at La Pilastres, though not far from Girona, and hung my feet in water as was already seriously hot by then.
Even though Sunday, there were quite lot Cafes open along the way though no shops of course. Drinks more expensive than elsewhere.
Any further advice most gratefully received. Off to bed!
Hi Tasmin - my memory always lets me down, however just throwing this out there. I walked during 2 weeks of Easter maybe 2018. Lots of local tourism, so may places booked out. When I arrived in Vic, I really was stumped at finding someplace. The local tourist office were not one bit helpful, but a local cafe was super friendly and did everything they could think of to help. Finally someone here, gave me a brilliant solution. Hop on a train.. So I booked a really nice hostel beside the train station in "Barcelona"... and was there before I knew it. I can't remember why, but I took a bus back out to meet the way from Vic again. Just an idea! Sometimes when tired and hitting walls, sometimes a ridiculous idea works. And I remember the Barcelona Hostel was near an Ethiopian restaurant - yum. So happy days!
 

Tamsin Grainger

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés
De la plata
Hi Tamsin,

When you arrive to Sant Feliu de Pallerols ask for the "Pescallunes".

Legends​

THE PESCALLUNES
It is explained, from time immemorial, that one night in a clear sky and a full moon, a man from Sant Feliu de Llobregat was walking along the river Brugent when he had to stop attracted by the charm, never seen by him until then, that it offered that star which was reflected in all its fullness in the calm waters of the stream. He was so overwhelmed by the beauty of that moon, that it shone so brightly in the darkness of the water, that he was excited to think that he could have it and decided to fish it with a cove. But no matter how much he put the cove in the water and took it off very quickly, he couldn't get it into it.
Someone saw the show and in a mocking tone said to him: what do you want to do? Fishing for the moon ?. Since then, those in Sant Feliu de Pallerols have called us “PESCALLUNES”: people who are excited and have dreams, romantic, with ambition and many projects, people who do not stop, who always look ahead.
That's a great story. I am here now. Thank you very much.
 

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Tamsin Grainger

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés
De la plata
Day 2: Amer to Sant Esteve d'en Bas. So, I ditched my sleeping bag and travelled a little lighter, the sun wasn't as strong, there was more shade and now it's actually raining/pouring! Make sure you see the Romanesque Santa Starts in forests then Les Planes d'Hostoles. Have to détour for open café (10 mins past a spar to The first uphill is gradual but long, the second, very steep but mercifully short, then downhill and flat through
Staying at youth hostel in Vall d'en Bas - keep on the path until you are very close, it is soon after the tunnel - look left. Probably best to book in advance. V helpful and kind staff. All clean and spacious. Good shower. She offered a rack for my clothes to dry on (she is a peregrina!) . They offer eve meal (10 euros basic) and breakfast (5 euros). Just under 30 euros per night and slight reduction if you eat too. No kitchen though they offered to microwave and you can eat supermarket food there - 15 mins walk back to town. No alcohol as youth centre.
 

Tamsin Grainger

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés
De la plata
Day 2: Amer to Sant Esteve d'en Bas. So, I ditched my sleeping bag and travelled a little lighter, the sun wasn't as strong, there was more shade and now it's actually raining/pouring! Make sure you see the Romanesque Santa Starts in forests then Les Planes d'Hostoles. Have to détour for open café (10 mins past a spar to The first uphill is gradual but long, the second, very steep but mercifully short, then downhill and flat through
Staying at youth hostel in Vall d'en Bas - keep on the path until you are very close, it is soon after the tunnel - look left. Probably best to book in advance. V helpful and kind staff. All clean and spacious. Good shower. She offered a rack for my clothes to dry on (she is a peregrina!) . They offer eve meal (10 euros basic) and breakfast (5 euros). Just under 30 euros per night and slight reduction if you eat too. No kitchen though they offered to microwave and you can eat supermarket food there - 15 mins walk back to town. No alcohol as youth centre.
Sorry, that posted before I finished it. Live from the Camino Camí Sant Jaume day 2: Amer to Sant Esteve d'en Bas. So I decided to ditch my sleeping bag and the pack was lighter as a result. There was less sun, more shade and, later once I had got to the hostal, it poured with rain.
Started 6am Amer by beautiful Romanesque Santa Maria of Amer Church in centre, then forests followed by Les Planes d'Hostoles where you must divert 10 mins to café Can Llens. Once just out of town over bridge look down left to wonderful pool and waterfall. I had a great swim (69 steps back up). Sant Feliu de Pallerols (see above) has a tourist info and cafe in the old station oficinae tourisme l'Estacio worth visiting. Then long slow gradual incline plus short, very steep one to top of Coll, long windy downhill, back through woods and into SEd'enB - modern housing and flats with statuary and big sports centre including outdoor pool.
I am staying in the Vall d'en Bas albergue, a youth hostel at 30 euros for the night plus 10 for evening meal (basic) and 5 for breakfast w/ a slight reduction if you sleep plus eat. Very kind and helpful hospitaleros provided a rack to dry my stuff on. 4 bunks in my room plus great bathroom and shower. Lovely balcony - see photos. Stay on the path until you get to it as it's on the opposite side of town. You can eat your own food there and they'll microwave for you, but no kitchen. V clean & well equipped.
 

Tamsin Grainger

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés
De la plata
Hi Tasmin - my memory always lets me down, however just throwing this out there. I walked during 2 weeks of Easter maybe 2018. Lots of local tourism, so may places booked out. When I arrived in Vic, I really was stumped at finding someplace. The local tourist office were not one bit helpful, but a local cafe was super friendly and did everything they could think of to help. Finally someone here, gave me a brilliant solution. Hop on a train.. So I booked a really nice hostel beside the train station in "Barcelona"... and was there before I knew it. I can't remember why, but I took a bus back out to meet the way from Vic again. Just an idea! Sometimes when tired and hitting walls, sometimes a ridiculous idea works. And I remember the Barcelona Hostel was near an Ethiopian restaurant - yum. So happy days!
Hi, thank you for taking the time to answer and share your experience. So far I have just, and I mean only just (!) managed to find accommodation where I have finished walking for the day, but you are right, if I cannot, I can always take a bus or train. Thank you very much.
 

Tamsin Grainger

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés
De la plata
Day 3
Sant Esteve d'en Bas to Olot (8 kms) and back plus walking around Olot planning my wee pilgrimage for the International Walking Encounters Conference delegates = 25.75kms https://www.artdelcaminar.org/
A mostly lovely walk to Les Preses on the edge of Olot for breakfast though some was between an electric fenced maize field and a v busy road. All was green and healthily wet from last night's rain. At Vertisol les Preses I had an unusual vegan bocadillo and sencha green tea. Both times I went through Les Preses I 'lost' the path briefly - turn left after the cafe to keep on greenaway (on the way to Olot), and don't go round the field at the back of the cafe (on the way back!)
Only toilets I could find in Olot were in the Plaça Mercat, underground in the car park by the entrance to Mercadona.
The volcanic Park is wonderful and Stretches for quite a way. It's worth going off path too - I had a dip in the Fluvià. There's a cafe in the Codella- Les Preses old station building (though I didn't see it serving, women were outside repairing fabric and the door was open both times).
In Olot there are many shrines, eg to Sant Roc with his camino shells and a St Jaume (James in Catalán) hospital building.
Olot back to Sant Esteve: in full heat (27) took 2 hours including a supermarket visit and snack stop. Absolutely no shade for 80 per cent of the way (3-5pm) and seriously hot after. Second night at Vall d'en Bas hostel to avoid Olot costs. Remember there's also a municipal outside pool to swim in and a cafe bar 5 mins walk from it too!
 

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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Hi, @Tamsin Grainger. I have not slept in Sant Esteve, but walked through on my way to L’Esquirol from Sant Feliu. It looks to me like your logical stop tomorrow will be L’Esquirol, which is about 21-22 from where you are now. It’s a beautiful walk, but does get a bit remote if I remember correctly, especially in the part after you turn off the road from Sant Esteve and until you get to Cantanigos (from Cantanigos to L’Esquirol is all downhill, very obvious, no way to go wrong).

I second what @AshIreGal said to you in another thread. GPS tracks would be very helpful. I also agree that wikiloc is an easy way to do it. If you can, I would download the wikiloc app, download the offline maps for the region so you won’t be using up any data when you follow the route. Then you can just pull up one of wikiloc’s many GPS possibilities for Sant Esteve to L’Esquirol. I recorded my tracks in 2015, here, https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cami-st-jaume-san-feliu-to-lesquirol-10903644

But there are likely to be many more recent tracks, in case there have been trail changes.

Good luck and buen camino!
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
And one p.s., @Tamsin Grainger, if you are going to walk to Vic from L’Esquirol, there are a couple of 5 star attractions that are more or less on the way but require some attention because they are off-camino. The monastery Sant Pere de Casseres is, IMHO, a wonderful detour, and on the way there, you will pass some pretty astonishing neolithic sacrificial altars.

Not sure what your plans are, but would be happy to give info if these alternatives are appealing. Buen camino.
 

Tamsin Grainger

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés
De la plata
And one p.s., @Tamsin Grainger, if you are going to walk to Vic from L’Esquirol, there are a couple of 5 star attractions that are more or less on the way but require some attention because they are off-camino. The monastery Sant Pere de Casseres is, IMHO, a wonderful detour, and on the way there, you will pass some pretty astonishing neolithic sacrificial altars.

Not sure what your plans are, but would be happy to give info if these alternatives are appealing. Buen camino.
Yes that was my plan - L'Esquirol to Vic. Sounds amazing. Thank you
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
My post number 21 in this thread details the route I took and has a link to my gps tracks. If I had had an extra day I would have snagged a last minute room at the parador and then walked into Vic (about 12-13???) the next day. As it was, I had no time to spare so after I visited the monastery, I continued on a few kms to the parador and got a cab to come pick me up. I think that Alan Sykes and maybe a couple of other forum members have taken this detour and I don’t think I have ever heard any negative comments. The wikiloc tracks will show you the ascents involved and you can decide whether it would be comfortable for you.

The one really unexpected bonus was coming across a neolithic site from about 2500 BC. Some info on this website. There was a sacrificial altar (at least that’s the theory) along with some interesting carvings in the rocks. It is right on the trail to the monastery.

Good luck, and I hope you had a very nice walk into L’Esquirol! When I walked in 2015, the town had only recently been able to change its name back to L’Esquirol from its Franco-era Santa María del Corcó (or something like that), so it was very confusing. I assume that is all in the past now!
 

Tamsin Grainger

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Francés
De la plata
My post number 21 in this thread details the route I took and has a link to my gps tracks. If I had had an extra day I would have snagged a last minute room at the parador and then walked into Vic (about 12-13???) the next day. As it was, I had no time to spare so after I visited the monastery, I continued on a few kms to the parador and got a cab to come pick me up. I think that Alan Sykes and maybe a couple of other forum members have taken this detour and I don’t think I have ever heard any negative comments. The wikiloc tracks will show you the ascents involved and you can decide whether it would be comfortable for you.

The one really unexpected bonus was coming across a neolithic site from about 2500 BC. Some info on this website. There was a sacrificial altar (at least that’s the theory) along with some interesting carvings in the rocks. It is right on the trail to the monastery.

Good luck, and I hope you had a very nice walk into L’Esquirol! When I walked in 2015, the town had only recently been able to change its name back to L’Esquirol from its Franco-era Santa María del Corcó (or something like that), so it was very confusing. I assume that is all in the past now!
Thanks. After today, I am not sure I will be continuing. I had a truly HARD time - 9.5 hours and then I got a lift from someone blessed from just outside Contonegrós. Not only am I unlikely to continue tomorrow, but I fear my pilgrim days may be over. I cannot put myself through that again, or risk similar.
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Thanks. After today, I am not sure I will be continuing. I had a truly HARD time - 9.5 hours and then I got a lift from someone blessed from just outside Contonegrós. Not only am I unlikely to continue tomorrow, but I fear my pilgrim days may be over. I cannot put myself through that again, or risk similar.
I am sorry to hear about your experience, but glad it ended well with the kindness you experienced. I hope you have a good rest and enjoy the rest of your stay in the lovely Vic area. Even if you won’t be walking, surely you will enjoy the fabulous medieval art museum in Vic.
 
Time of past OR future Camino
Yearly and Various 2014-2019
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I'm sorry you had such a day and am glad there was such kindness. May a night's sleep be restorative!
Thanks. After today, I am not sure I will be continuing. I had a truly HARD time - 9.5 hours and then I got a lift from someone blessed from just outside Contonegrós. Not only am I unlikely to continue tomorrow, but I fear my pilgrim days may be over. I cannot put myself through that again, or risk similar.
Maybe, maybe not.
Rest first, decide what is best later.
Who knows? Your experience today may be specific to the grade and terrain, both of which are more than a little intense.
 

Felice

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
SJPP to Santiago Sept 2014
Thanks. After today, I am not sure I will be continuing. I had a truly HARD time - 9.5 hours and then I got a lift from someone blessed from just outside Contonegrós. Not only am I unlikely to continue tomorrow, but I fear my pilgrim days may be over. I cannot put myself through that again, or risk similar.
Tamsin, I am so sorry to hear that you had such a hard dangerous day on Wed. When I walked in mid May, the weather was perfect for hiking - cool first thing then warm but not too warm in the early afternoon. That makes for a truly different day.
I suppose the moral of your story, is that Spain gets HOT in the summer, even in the mountains. I got heat stroke once, in late August, in the Cantabrians when I was walking with my husband. Not an experience I would like to repeat either.
 
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