The camino between Holland and France - part 6

[GunnarW]

I still have 20 days of vacation to spend this year so I decided to walk the Via Brabantica in stages. This means I take the train/bus till the start point and take another train/bus back home after the walk. A few days later I start walking where I stopped earlier. I started in Zandvliet just at the border.
The idea of doing this camino started here
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/starting-the-camino-in-brussels-belgium.22818/

Check here how I walked till the border
http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatialArtifacts.do?event=setCurrentSpatialArtifact&id=7744822

You can see the logged walk trail and some pictures here of Zandvliet-Antwerpen
http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatialArtifacts.do?event=setCurrentSpatialArtifact&id=7744867

This is the first real walk on the Camino Brabantica starting at the border of Belgium-Holland at Zandvliet.

Start walking from the border to the south. After a few hundred meters, you need to take left on a dirt path. On a small plate is written EIGEN WEG which means Own Way, so this is a 'possible' private section. I walked on it and had no problems. After the private section, you will walk again on the border on an asphalt path. In Holland, at the left side is a wood. I took an alternative through the wood. As you can see on the map, there are plenty of possibilities in this wood. I followed my nose. Goal was to reach waypoint 5. If you want to stay in Belgium, follow the asphalt road by passing waypoints 2, 3 and 4. The long road to Kapellen goes through meadows (picture 2).

Sometimes a cycler who will ignore you will pass. You will see intact shelters from WWII. Also a small canal that was digged between the stream Schelde and the Canal Albert to stop incoming tanks from Germany. Just before the centre of Kapellen, you will enter in a nice piece of wood (picture 3) with ancient trees. The commune of Kapellen is an ancient place for pilgrims. The commune has St Jacob on its logo and you will see it on all street panels. The church has a secretary which is normally open during office hours. There is a list with telephone numbers on the door in case no one opens. I called Pascale and after 5 minutes, she opened the church and I got a sello. There is also a nice chapel for pilgrims which is open all day. At the main entrance of the church, there is a panel which says Santiago de Compostela is 2140km away. Between the church and the parking lot is a modern statue made in September 2012. It represents the pilgrim heading to Santiago. After Kapellen, it's walking on streets and you will enter the commune of Ekeren. Ekeren is part of Antwerpen and you think from now on it's all walking between houses. Wrong, because after the district house (sello), you enter the park Hof Van Veltwyck that contains a castle. This park is connected with the reserve Oude Landen (picture 4).

I was surprised that there is an intact piece of nature so close to Antwerpen. The first sign of concentrate living is a few hundred meters after the reserve. Huge tower buildings are appearing suddenly. Those social towers are constructed in the fifties-sixties. Around 6000 people are living here in the site that is called Luchtbal (picture 5).

After Luchtbal, you will walk a while in the busy harbour of Antwerpen. Have a stop at the building MAS (waypoint 8). The MAS is an exposition centre. You can admire Antwerpen for free on the roof. Escalators will bring you almost till the 10th floor. There is a "but". You have to follow a circular way till the top of the building. Quite a difficult exercise after walking around 30km. You can continue walking along the Schelde till the centre.

Or you can improvise like I did. At waypoint 9 is the tourism office situated where a sello can be obtained. I walked till the St Jacobskerk at Lange Nieuwstraat but it is closed for long term for reconstruction works. Waypoint 10 is Antwerpen Centraal Station, also the start of Via Brabantica (3) till Lier

 

[t2andreo]

Gunnar:

I lived near Antwerpen for two years (2006-2008). One of my "to do" plans was to do the via Brabantica from Bergen-op-zoom in the NL. I thought of starting from the Cathedral steps there.

As I read your description above I was surprised to see so many mentions of places I used to ride my bicycle when I lived there. It brought back many good memories for me.

I was last in Antwerpen in June this year after I finished my second Camino Frances and volunteer Amigo duty. I flew up to visit friends. While I was there, I searched for Camino markings starting from the big cathedral, but only found one shell in the sidewalk near Sint Jacobskerk. Is there a good map of the Camino into and out of Antwerpen?

Please document your journey along the via Brabantica, across Belgium and into France. Please make notes and take photos. Perhaps when you are done, you can share your experiences with us here in the forum. Or, you can send me a PM (start a private conversation).

In any event, I am interested in the route, any available maps, and lodging possibilities. I favor small hotels, inns, or hostals over albergues or tourist hostals.

I wish you a very enjoyable holiday walk.

 

[GunnarW]

Hello Tom,

I found a plan of the shell walk in Antwerpen here
http://www.visitantwerpen.be/docs/Stad/Bedrijven/Actieve_stad/as_tnc/Jacobsschelpenwandeling.pdf
The walk goes to the albergue. This walk can be done with a guide, so it's only available for groups who reserve in advance. I asked at the tourist office if they had a leaflet with information along the walk but they hadn't. So I didn't walk it as it's not part of the Via Brabantica.
The Via Brabantica in the center goes (for the moment) from the cathedral - Meir - Station Antwerpen Centraal - Carnotstraat/Turnoutse baan up to the Rivierenhofpark. On the Wikiloc page you can see the logged track and soon the walk till Lier will be available. For lodging possibilities, I suggest you buy the Via Brabantica guide from the Compostela Genootschap in Mechelen. I went there on a Saturday afternoon and bought also the Monastica and the Limburgica. In this guide, the camino is also described in words. You find interesting information what you will see and there is a list of places where you can sleep plus the price. Even with families who are receiving peregrinos in their house. I think you can buy the guide also on their site.
About signalisation. Between Zandvliet and Antwerpen, there is almost no signalisation, except in Ekeren center. But it's possible that my eyes were not fixed for the observation of the tinny blue camino sticker. Between Antwerpen and Lier, I noticed more of those stickers. But it's written in the guide: the association only setted stickers on critical points.
Doing the camino with no guidebook or prepared navigator is not possible.
What I did is I studied the map in the guide and set it out in a walking GPS navigator.
I will make a report of each stage like I did already for Zandhoven-Antwerpen: the logged track in Wikiloc and somthing like 30 lines of text with 5 or 6 pictures. You need to create a free account on Wikiloc if you want to download the track in GPX format.
There will be another Radio Buen Camino movie about it but this is for later, much later.

 

[t2andreo]

Hello Tom,

I found a plan of the shell walk in Antwerpen here
http://www.visitantwerpen.be/docs/Stad/Bedrijven/Actieve_stad/as_tnc/Jacobsschelpenwandeling.pdf
The walk goes to the albergue. This walk can be done with a guide, so it's only available for groups who reserve in advance. I asked at the tourist office if they had a leaflet with information along the walk but they hadn't. So I didn't walk it as it's not part of the Via Brabantica.
The Via Brabantica in the center goes (for the moment) from the cathedral - Meir - Station Antwerpen Centraal - Carnotstraat/Turnoutse baan up to the Rivierenhofpark. On the Wikiloc page you can see the logged track and soon the walk till Lier will be available. For lodging possibilities, I suggest you buy the Via Brabantica guide from the Compostela Genootschap in Mechelen. I went there on a Saturday afternoon and bought also the Monastica and the Limburgica. In this guide, the camino is also described in words. You find interesting information what you will see and there is a list of places where you can sleep plus the price. Even with families who are receiving peregrinos in their house. I think you can buy the guide also on their site.
About signalisation. Between Zandvliet and Antwerpen, there is almost no signalisation, except in Ekeren center. But it's possible that my eyes were not fixed for the observation of the tinny blue camino sticker. Between Antwerpen and Lier, I noticed more of those stickers. But it's written in the guide: the association only setted stickers on critical points.
Doing the camino with no guidebook or prepared navigator is not possible.
What I did is I studied the map in the guide and set it out in a walking GPS navigator.
I will make a report of each stage like I did already for Zandhoven-Antwerpen: the logged track in Wikiloc and somthing like 30 lines of text with 5 or 6 pictures. You need to create a free account on Wikiloc if you want to download the track in GPX format.
There will be another Radio Buen Camino movie about it but this is for later, much later.

Gunnar:

Thank you very much for all this good information. I know about the Compostela Genootschap on Varkenstraat in Mechelen. I need to obtain their Camino route guides. My Dutch is basic, but I know I can figure it out.

I will look forward to reading your Wikiloc updates. I saved links to each as bookmarks, and I will consider downloading the files afterwards.

Thanks again. Tot Ziens!

 

[peregrina2000]

Radio Buen Camino is at it again! Thanks for all of the information and pictures. I enjoy following you from afar. What a great way to spend your accumulated vacation days, buen camino, Laurie

 

[GunnarW]

BELGIUM - Via Brabantica (3) – Antwerpen / Lier
map: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=7821770

This is day 2 on the Via Brabantica from Antwerpen till Lier. At the train station Antwerpen Centraal, you need to follow the Carnotstraat / Turnhoutse Baan (picture 1) straight till you quit the centre.

The Carnotstraat / Turnhoutse Baan is a large avenue with much traffic. After crossing the inner ring called Singel and the highway outer ring, the camino enters a giant park called Rivierenhof (picture 2).

Further on, the park becomes more a small nature reserve. There are some markers but I could not find them all. So my trip was a little bit longer but I didn’t regret it.
Soon, you leave Rivierenhof and after taking the tunnel under the E313 highway, you will walk through a piece of land divided in many small lots. Those are called “volkstuintjes”, inhabitants can use the ground of the commune and cultivate vegetables or fruits on it. After crossing another busy road, the via goes around Fort number 2. You have to know that in the 19th century, many forts were built around Antwerpen to protect the city. Some forts are still intact and are used by all kind of associations. Take some time to explore the fort inside. If you are not afraid of labyrinths, take the stairs to the next floor.
The next commune is Borsbeek (picture 3).

For the moment, the church can’t be visited as they are searching for a new priest. You can ask for a sello in the police office in front of the church. After the centre of Borsbeek, you will walk around Fort number 3. You can’t visit this fort because it’s a ruin. But a small detour can be made in the nature around it. We meet again at waypoint 5.
After Borsbeek, the camino goes to Lier, the objective of today. But there are still some kilometers to do through farmer lands (picture 4)

and sometimes you will pass some houses grouped together. Finally, you will enter the city of Lier (picture 5).

Take some time to visit Lier because it has nice things to see like the Zimmertoren, St Gummarus church and Begijnhof. Just go in the tourism office at the right side of the commune hall on the central place. Present your credencial and you will receive a sello which is three stores high!
Picture 6: St Gummarus church classified UNESCO. It should be a cathedral.

 

[GunnarW]

BELGIUM - Via Brabantica (4) – Lier / Mechelen
map: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatialArtifacts.do?event=setCurrentSpatialArtifact&id=7823429

On the third day of the camino Brabantica, I arrived at Mechelen, another important town. But first, let me show you the three-stores-high stamp I got in the tourism office of Lier. (picture 1)

Before I leave Lier (waypoint 1), I quickly walked through the Begijnhof - Béguinage, also classified UNESCO. (picture 2)

The walk till Mechelen starts along the Netekanaal. It’s a long walk and it’s quite boring because the landscape doesn’t change a lot. After a few kilometers I did a little alternative (waypoint 3) in a small reserve. You will soon pass the commune Duffel. (picture 3)

In the 15th century, they made heavy woollen fabric and it was called like the name of the commune. In Duffel, you can get a sello in the commune hall (waypoint 2) which is very close to the camino.
Don’t forget to walk on the bridge and change bank of the Nete. Nog big deal if you are still walking on the same side. You can walk over the Nete a few hundred meters further on the special pedestrian/bike lane on the railroad bridge. (picture 4)

Finally, a few kilometers after Duffel, the camino quits the canal and will go through a small wood. Till Mechelen, you will walk through Sint-Katelijne-Waver, you will pass the football stadium of KV Mechelen and in the center, you need to take left at the Varkensstraat.
Every Saturday (except on holidays), the secretary of het Compostela Genootschap, situated in Het Diocesaan Pastoraal Centrum at Varkensstraat 6 is open for everyone who likes information about the camino. (waypoint 4, picture 5). I asked for a sello and we shared our experiences.

If you still have some energy left, consider climbing on the St.-Romboutstoren (waypoint 5, picture 6), again UNESCO classified. It’s 96m high and after using 538 stairs, there is a panorama deck where you can see the cathedral of Antwerp, the St.-Gummarus church of Lier and the Atomium of Brussels.

Waypoint 6 will lead you to the station of Mechelen.

 

[GunnarW]

BELGIUM - Via Brabantica (5) – Mechelen / Brussel
Wikiloc: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=7954456

This is the day four on the Camino Brabantica. I stood up very early and arrived with the train at 6:30 at the station of Mechelen. The reason of starting early is that the walk to Brussels is around 35km. I walked again to the center at the Sint-Romboutstoren and continued walking through the Ijzerenleen (picture 1),

Korenmarkt, Hoogstraat, through the Brusselpoort – the only remaining gate of Mechelen - to the Vrijbroekpark. After passing a giant water tower, you will walk through a tunnel under the busy E19, the highway between Antwerp and Brussels. Every morning, there is a jam to Brussels and I saw cars already driving at pedestrian speed. For a short while, you will walk parallel with the E19 and the river Zenne (picture 2).

The Zenne is a small river coming from Brussels. This river is the drain of Brussels. Also sceptic waste from Brussels is directly thrown in the river. Since a few years there is a filtration installation active just after Brussels. So brown elements can no longer be spotted in the Zenne.
At the commune of Zemst, you will follow the canal of the Zenne leaving the E19. A few kilometer further, in Eppegem, the camino leaves the river and you will walk along meadows but still on small vehicle roads. After walking over De Verbrande Brug, the camino goes straight to Grimbergen on a small dirt path between meadows and gardens. This is a very nice trail. I didn’t know the existence of this path.
The small commune of Grimbergen is known for the Premonstratensian monastery established in 1128 (picture 3).

The church, built in baroque style, is impressive. After visiting the church, I rang at the door of the monastery and asked for a sello. The monastery is at the left side if you are facing the main entrance of the church. It’s the first door with a multiple modern entrance facility. Select “Secretary” from the presets or dial the corresponding number. I didn’t see a Norbertine in a white canon. The lady from the secretary told me that they all left for their priest mission.
At Grimbergen, there is a possibility to take a bus to Brussels. But I still had enough energy to continue. The walk to Brussels starts through a park where the remains of the castle of Berthout can be seen. At the end of World War 2, the Germans destroyed the castle before they were chased from Belgium.
You will soon leave the agglomeration and walk on a dirt path between meadows to the capital. (picture 4)

After passing close to the coffee factory “Douwe Egberts”, you will walk through a tunnel under the busy Ring of Brussels, also called R0. Just after the tunnel, the agglomeration of Brussels starts and from now on, you will walk between houses till you reach the centre. Except around the Atomium – the monument built in 1958 during the Expo representing a unit cell of an iron crystal – you will walk for a while in a huge park and you will pass the King’s palace (picture 5).

On picture 5, you see also the Japanese tower, another remaining of Expo ‘58. One more thing about the Atomium. At the office section, you can ask for a sello.
After the King’s garden, you will notice a gothic church Notre Dame which is permanently gasified from the passing traffic. The church is nice outside. You will go over the Canal Charleroi-Willebroek (picture 6)

and after passing the Antwerpse Steenweg, the camino goes through the business centre where you can admire some skyscrapers.
Today’s walk will end at the Centraal Station. If you arrive on a weekday before 16:00 at the Grand Place, you can retrieve a nice sello in the commune hall. That’s the Gothic building with a huge tower on the Grande Place. Go through the gate of the commune hall. Take left just at the beginning of the second gate. There are two doors. One is labeled with EXPEDITION. Ring the bell and the guy will give you a sello.

 

[GunnarW]

Here will come soon the camino walk in the centre of Brussels

 

[GunnarW]

BELGIUM – GR126 (6) – Brussel / Lasne
Wikiloc: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=7960834
Behind the cathedral of Brussels, there is an important intersection of walking trails. The Camino Brabantica goes South heading to Halle and next to Nivelles/Nijvel. There is a possibility to walk to Namur/Namen by following the GR126 and connect with the Via Monastica. The GR126 goes first through the Zoniënwoud, the biggest forest of Belgium. Next, it will pass through more green areas. I decided to leave the Brabantica. I had seen enough large towns and would like to walk in long stretches of nature.
07:00 - Brussel Centraal Station. Picture 1.

I need to walk 8 km through Brussels to reach the first trees of the big forest. Brussels is cluster of 19 communes. In Ixelles, the GR126 passes the commune hall so I had the idea asking for a sello as in the forest, it’s hard to find one. At 07:15, the commune hall was already open but the counters were still closed. I took a queue ticket and waited. At 07:30 I asked for a sello but the lady didn’t understand why I needed a stamp as stamps in Ixelles will not be given without a valid reason. The supervisor helped me by stamping the credencial with an administrative stamp. Maybe you will not make the small detour for the sello but consider going to the toilets for free.
It took some time to reach the forest as the capital is built on hills.
Picture 2: Abbey of Ter Kamerenbos

Picture 3: Ter Kamerenbos: an old racetrack, now one the access points of the capital.

The Zoniënwoud (picture 4) is a forest with mainly beeches. Many beeches are over 200 years old, so it’s like you are walking in a huge cathedral for hours.

The forest has a surface area of 4421 ha - over 10.920 acres. Unfortunately, it’s splitted by the Ring R0, the railroad to Luxemburg and also the highway to Luxemburg. As in all forests, I met some dogs with their walker the first kilometer. After that, it’s a complete solitude for several hours. The Zoniënwoud has many concrete straight paths and some dirt paths. The GR126 follows a dirt path I didn’t know before. The forest ends in the French speaking part of Belgium called Wallonia. In my case, the GR126 will reach the commune La Hulpe. For many hours, you will see nice houses as this region is very attractive for people with many resources. Most cars have license plates from France and Luxemburg.
Following a GR path is sometimes challenging. You need to look carefully for the red-white sign. A change in direction is only mentioned once. Look at the next picture.

On my navigator, I noticed that the path went straight, leaving the tarmac. I noticed the cross so I thought the path became private and the GR follows the tarmac. Wrong, because between the cross and the tarmac there is a small sign and the path goes into the dark forest. So for walking on GR routes, you better walk with two. One who is enjoying the walk, the other one for monitoring the signs on continuous base.
After La Hulpe, you will penetrate Lasne, one of the richest communes of the country. First there is Ohain with the most beautiful central place (picture6).

I left the GR route because I wanted first to visit the church but in fact there was no need to leave the GR. There was no one in the church and I noticed there was any sound in the church. Absolute silence. Anything.
The last kilometers will lead you to the church of Lasne. I took TEC bus 36 till Waver/Wavre and will come back soon for the next stretch.

 

[GunnarW]

BELGIUM – GR126 (7) – Lasne / Villers-la-Ville

Wikiloc: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=8024635

07:30: Back in Lasne. In Lasne, there is the association “Lasne Nature” who identified small walking trails all over the commune. All the trails have a reference and those references are indicated on wooden panels. It’s a real pleasure to walk on those tracks so I decided to do a little detour on those tracks instead of walking along the national road to catch up again the GR126. Close to the church there is “Sentier nr 65 du monument Prussien”. I followed the trail through the grass, in a wood, through a sugar beet field. As you can see on the first picture, the farmer respected the trail. There is no mud on the trail produced by his machines.

During the first hour, the GR126 follows all kind of those small walking trails through meadows, between two gardens and in parts of private wood. Pay attention not to touch the wires from the fences as I noticed some of them are isolated from the ground and it could be possible that there is some electricity on it. Picture 2.


It’s know GR trails are avoiding as much as possible villages. You will pass Court St Etienne and Bousval but not in the centre of those villages. Pictures 3 & 4: landscapes along the GR126 around Bousval




In Bousval, just after crossing an old rail road which is now a concrete cycling trail, I noticed camino markers. There are a lot of camino markers so I started to follow them. But after a while, I noticed that I was off road and went back. I realized that in Bousval, there is an intersection with the Via Gallia Belgica, coming from Diest, Tienen, Jodoigne heading to Nijvel/Nivelles, St-Quentin, Paris. The GR126 and the Via Gallia Belgica are one common track for a few hundred meters until this marker (picture 5)


Today’s walk will end in Villers-La-Ville. Villers-La-Ville is not a town as the name suggests. But there is an important historic site. Villers abbey was one of the most important Cistercian abbeys of Europe. It was founded in 1146 and abandoned 600 years later. The site is fallen into ruins but reconstruction is a fact, bit by bit. Most impressive is the church (picture 6) with imposing vaulting, arches and rose windows.


One kilometre further, there is a train station. I took the train back to Ottignies.

 

[t2andreo]

Gunnar:

Did your Camino from Belgium end at Villers-La-Ville? I have been following this thread and saving all your Wiki-Loc references for future use. Thank you for the tips.

I just want to know if all is well with you.

 

[GunnarW]

Hello,
No no, I left Villers-La-Ville. The reason for the delay is that I'm focussing on the edition of the movie. Till soon,

 

[natefaith]

Just discovered this thread and it's great! Thanks for posting your experiences and your photos.

 

[futurefjp]

BELGIUM - Via Brabantica (3) – Antwerpen / Lier
map: http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=7821770

This is day 2 on the Via Brabantica from Antwerpen till Lier. At the train station Antwerpen Centraal, you need to follow the Carnotstraat / Turnhoutse Baan (picture 1) straight till you quit the centre.
View attachment 13806
The Carnotstraat / Turnhoutse Baan is a large avenue with much traffic. After crossing the inner ring called Singel and the highway outer ring, the camino enters a giant park called Rivierenhof (picture 2).
View attachment 13807
Further on, the park becomes more a small nature reserve. There are some markers but I could not find them all. So my trip was a little bit longer but I didn’t regret it.
Soon, you leave Rivierenhof and after taking the tunnel under the E313 highway, you will walk through a piece of land divided in many small lots. Those are called “volkstuintjes”, inhabitants can use the ground of the commune and cultivate vegetables or fruits on it. After crossing another busy road, the via goes around Fort number 2. You have to know that in the 19th century, many forts were built around Antwerpen to protect the city. Some forts are still intact and are used by all kind of associations. Take some time to explore the fort inside. If you are not afraid of labyrinths, take the stairs to the next floor.
The next commune is Borsbeek (picture 3).
View attachment 13808
For the moment, the church can’t be visited as they are searching for a new priest. You can ask for a sello in the police office in front of the church. After the centre of Borsbeek, you will walk around Fort number 3. You can’t visit this fort because it’s a ruin. But a small detour can be made in the nature around it. We meet again at waypoint 5.
After Borsbeek, the camino goes to Lier, the objective of today. But there are still some kilometers to do through farmer lands (picture 4)
View attachment 13809
and sometimes you will pass some houses grouped together. Finally, you will enter the city of Lier (picture 5).
View attachment 13810
Take some time to visit Lier because it has nice things to see like the Zimmertoren, St Gummarus church and Begijnhof. Just go in the tourism office at the right side of the commune hall on the central place. Present your credencial and you will receive a sello which is three stores high!
Picture 6: St Gummarus church classified UNESCO. It should be a cathedral.
View attachment 13811

Hi

What do you mean by Commune Hall - Town Hall? And by Sello you must mean Credential Stamp?