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I start walking on April 6th and I am doing some research on the Valcarlos route as Napolean may well be closed. I vaguely remember in a Brierley guide a few years ago, he said you had to get keys from someone for the Valcarlos auberge. He does not mention it in his latest guide. Wise Pilgrim says the keys can be obtained from the shop next to the church but when I use google maps street view there is no shop either side of the church. Also, the auberge is nowhere near where Wise Pilgrim puts it. Does anyone know if I still need to get keys and if so, where, and can I phone ahead to reserve a bed? Much as I dislike pre-booking I dont want to be faced with the prospect of doing the whole wak to Roncesvalles in one day
Thanks, always prepared as best I can on the Camino hence the question. I am fairly sure Napolean will be closed but I have never walked Valcarlos before. In terms of finding your way, I think Napolean is the easiest. I even got lost today on google maps. I will be arriving on a Friday early afternoon so office hopefully will be open if I can beat siesta. I will send them an email but would it be best to leave it until closer to my start date. I feel like I know the village of Valcarlos as well as my hometown. I have walked up and down and around every corner using google maps looking for the shop mentioned in Wise PilgrimYou can email the Valcarlos municipal office to ask for a reservation at Luzaide-Valcarlos@wanadoo.es and at
turismo@luzaide-valcarlos.net.
or telephone them at
+34 948 79 01 17.
As you walk up the main street of Valcarlos, Calle Elizaldea, shortly after passing the church you will see the municipal building on the opposite side of the road and a contemporary sculpture representing pilgrims. If it is a working day you can enter the municipal building and stop at the Secretary's door which is marked on the second floor to ask for the albergue door code. After leaving the municipal office turn at the sculpture and walk down the lane passing the kindergarden to the stairs leading down to the albergue door. Enter and take a bunk.
Between Valcarlos and Roncesvalles there is no place to buy food nor is their potable water. Be prepared!
Thanks Tincatinker, I have studied Valcarlos on google maps till I know it like the back of my hand looking for the shop next to the church mentioned in Wise Pilgrim so I know where the albergue is. The fabled shop however does not existHi, in my recall there is a published 'phone number and you can make a booking if you wish. Probably only necessary at weekends when Spanish rambling groups seem to use the place.
Its a key-code to get in. You can 'phone the number on the door and the hospiltalero/a will give you the key-code. Or you can get it from the bar just back up the road.
The albergue can be tricky to find. Its down some steps beside a sort of open paved area with a pillared structure around and underneath the municipal looking building next to it. That said everyone in town knows where it is and will lead you there, and call the hospi, and punch in the door-code and then leave you in peace. Don't forget to get them to write down the door-code!!
Eroski has the address as Plaza de Santiago, Ubicado en la planta baja de las escuela which looks better than Calle Elizaldea 52.
Edited after yet another look at Google
Well, sort of, but it works out well. No problems that I encountered.My Brierley Guide (2018 edition) doesn’t mention keys, codes, or anything of the sort. Does this mean the auberge is unstaffed? You get the run of the place and have to remember to turn the lights off when you leave?
I start walking on April 6th and I am doing some research on the Valcarlos route as Napolean may well be closed. I vaguely remember in a Brierley guide a few years ago, he said you had to get keys from someone for the Valcarlos auberge. He does not mention it in his latest guide. Wise Pilgrim says the keys can be obtained from the shop next to the church but when I use google maps street view there is no shop either side of the church. Also, the auberge is nowhere near where Wise Pilgrim puts it. Does anyone know if I still need to get keys and if so, where, and can I phone ahead to reserve a bed? Much as I dislike pre-booking I dont want to be faced with the prospect of doing the whole wak to Roncesvalles in one day
About 2 weeks ago I e-mailed the Albergue requesting a reservation for March 23 and received a prompt reply, bed reserved. Thanks to those providing detailed directions to the door.
I will be there on 22nd March.... I’ll try to leave it tidy
More seriously.... is reservation required at this time of year?
Much as I would love to add to the waymarks, extra weight is a no no. And indelible ink pens are only for graffiti vandalsHi tpmchugh,
Thank you for bringing this up. Perhaps take a small can of yellow paint and make the pavement with a yellow arrow pointing toward the bunkhouse after it is found? I will be following you, a month later. I will watch out for your sign. OHHH, once dry, could you use a sharpie and write the access code along the shaft of the arrow?
Have a look at google maps. Square almost opposite the church, go to bottom you will see sign pointing down the stairs to the albergue. This last two days I have spent so much time following routes on the computer, I am seeing them in my dreams. An interesting point following google into Arneguy. They came to roadworks just before the shopping centre and had to turn back. They never returned to finish itThank you, useful information. Three weeks from today it will be me walking around Valcarlos looking for the Auberge and shop.
Check out this link to an interactive map with the first half of the Valcarlos route (and maybe take screenshots; the link is only good for a few days.) The track is off a bit at that blank spot you mentioned but it is still clear about which way to go. Follow the small road when you leave D128, not the track.My only blank spot is from Ondorolle to Valcarlos. There are no roads to follow so the last little section from road to trail and into town is a blank although the photo recommended in a post above is a little help.
Thanks for that map, filled in the last little piece of info I needed to get into town from OldorolleEarlier I mentioned three red doors at the fire station. There are four but only three can be seen clearly in the picture.
The following link will pinpoint the albergue. The entrance is at the north-east corner. Google's Street View cannot show the east side of the building.
https://mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4.php?ll=43.091801,-1.301751&z=18&t=m
This map that is handed out at the SJPdP pilgrims' office may be helpful too.Thanks for that map, filled in the last little piece of info I needed to get into town from Oldorolle
Thanks, much appreciated. Also followed it on StreetView.Have a look at google maps. Square almost opposite the church, go to bottom you will see sign pointing down the stairs to the albergue. This last two days I have spent so much time following routes on the computer, I am seeing them in my dreams. An interesting point following google into Arneguy. They came to roadworks just before the shopping centre and had to turn back. They never returned to finish it. My only blank spot is from Ondorolle to Valcarlos. There are no roads to follow so the last little section from road to trail and into town is a blank although the photo recommended in a post above is a little help. Seiously considering scrapping plans to use Napolean even if it is open on the day. Looks like more of a challenge finding my way rather than the challenge of climbing Napolean
Thanks for the update95% certain that I will go via Valcarlos. Was told that (officially) the Napoleon route is most definitely closed during my walking dates (end of March). Except if it is open...
Ok, I have a bed reserved so thanks for the email addresses. The first one I tried unfortunately was an unavailable address, that was the turismo@ one. The wanadoo.es one worked fine. Two hour response time which is good by anybody's standards. I took a little while to think about which route I wanted to take if Napolean was open and plumped for Valcarlos. Believe it or not, I think it looks more challenging than the mountains with respect to finding your way. Over Napolean its just keep walking with no turn offs or junctions to think about. Besides, I did Napolean 3 years ago so this will be something new. Thanks for your help and everyone elses help too. Greatly appreciated.You can email the Valcarlos municipal office to ask for a reservation at Luzaide-Valcarlos@wanadoo.es and at
turismo@luzaide-valcarlos.net.
or telephone them at
+34 948 79 01 17.
As you walk up the main street of Valcarlos, Calle Elizaldea, shortly after passing the church you will see the municipal building on the opposite side of the road and a contemporary sculpture representing pilgrims. If it is a working day you can enter the municipal building and stop at the Secretary's door which is marked on the second floor to ask for the albergue door code. After leaving the municipal office turn at the sculpture and walk down the lane passing the kindergarden to the stairs leading down to the albergue door. Enter and take a bunk.
Between Valcarlos and Roncesvalles there is no place to buy food nor is there potable water. Be prepared!
It is definitely closed until April 1st at earliest. Depending on weather, it could be closed longer95% certain that I will go via Valcarlos. Was told that (officially) the Napoleon route is most definitely closed during my walking dates (end of March). Except if it is open...
Thankyou, it was the Menú €12 that caught my attention there while looking at the maps. Always thinking about my stomachThe shop/little supermarket/bar where I got the keycode is Benta Ardandegia. It is not difficult lo locate; see here in Google Maps.
Thanks. I will be sure to ask for that mep. I think that will be good for me, not a Luddite, but not so techno savvy either!This map that is handed out at the SJPdP pilgrims' office may be helpful too.
http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/local/cache-vignettes/L600xH850/img-a2aaf.jpg
Thankyou, it was the Menú €12 that caught my attention there while looking at the maps. Always thinking about my stomach
I guess I will check with Orisson again when I get into Barcelona on 28 March before I reserve for Valcarlos. I would hate to miss out on joyful pain (my knees lol) on the Napoleon route.It is definitely closed until April 1st at earliest. Depending on weather, it could be closed longer
Orisson have advised me to phone the day before if the route is open. After much deliberation, I decided that as I have walked Napolean before (3 years ago), I would take Valcarlos. Napolean may be more physically challenging but Valcarlos looks more challenging re finding your wayI guess I will check with Orisson again when I get into Barcelona on 28 March before I reserve for Valcarlos. I would hate to miss out on joyful pain (my knees lol) on the Napoleon route.
Do you think that might be a problem getting a reservation so late in the month? I’m still hoping Orisson will be open 1 Apr but if not I’ll see you in Valcarlos.
My mouth is watering already. The Spanish must be the same about food though. Valcarlos is just on the Spanish side of the border. But then, only the French could come up with L'escargot. One of my favouritesWe had what was probably our best meal on the Camino there, and what I think were the best grilled lamb chops I've had anywhere. I'm convinced the French are genetically incapable of producing anything but outstanding food, no matter how simple!Be sure to check out the ham shop (got to be a better name?) just down the road. Fabulous-looking food and why we didn't buy something for the next day's lunch there, I don't know.... I loved Valcarlos. Enjoy!
only the French could come up with L'escargot. One of my favourites
How "good" was the bakery just a bid further up the road? (saw it on google earth & StreetView)We had what was probably our best meal on the Camino there, and what I think were the best grilled lamb chops I've had anywhere. I'm convinced the French are genetically incapable of producing anything but outstanding food, no matter how simple!Be sure to check out the ham shop (got to be a better name?) just down the road. Fabulous-looking food and why we didn't buy something for the next day's lunch there, I don't know.... I loved Valcarlos. Enjoy!
How "good" was the bakery just a bid further up the road? (saw it on google earth & StreetView)
My mouth is watering already. The Spanish must be the same about food though. Valcarlos is just on the Spanish side of the border.
And the company you are with.Haha! I thought we had crossed back into France! I know we kept skirting the border along that route. Anyway, our meal at that very unassuming little bar was really good. I guess it doesn't matter who's doing the cooking, as long as the food is good!
I am also arriving in Valcarlos that Friday so hope to meet up with you there.Thanks Tincatinker, I have studied Valcarlos on google maps till I know it like the back of my hand looking for the shop next to the church mentioned in Wise Pilgrim so I know where the albergue is. The fabled shop however does not existI will be arriving hopefully before siesta on the 6th which is a Friday so hopefully I will get there before any rambling groups. I was not sure about making a reservation as I hoped that Napolean might be open but after studying the route, initially as a back up plan, I am leaning towards making it my main plan. It looks like a really nice walk
Based on this thread I just printed out that map!Thanks. I will be sure to ask for that mep. I think that will be good for me, not a Luddite, but not so techno savvy either!
It looks like we may end up at the same place, wherever that may be! Looking forward to seeing you guys in person!Orisson have advised me to phone the day before if the route is open. After much deliberation, I decided that as I have walked Napolean before (3 years ago), I would take Valcarlos. Napolean may be more physically challenging but Valcarlos looks more challenging re finding your way
I start walking on April 6th and I am doing some research on the Valcarlos route as Napolean may well be closed. I vaguely remember in a Brierley guide a few years ago, he said you had to get keys from someone for the Valcarlos auberge. He does not mention it in his latest guide. Wise Pilgrim says the keys can be obtained from the shop next to the church but when I use google maps street view there is no shop either side of the church. Also, the auberge is nowhere near where Wise Pilgrim puts it. Does anyone know if I still need to get keys and if so, where, and can I phone ahead to reserve a bed? Much as I dislike pre-booking I dont want to be faced with the prospect of doing the whole wak to Roncesvalles in one day
The same map is bigger and easier to read here: http://www.xacobeo.fr/ZE1.11.Aqu.Nav.SJPP-Ron.Cize.pdfThis map that is handed out at the SJPdP pilgrims' office may be helpful too.
http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/local/cache-vignettes/L600xH850/img-a2aaf.jpg
Look forward to itHi Tpmchugh,
Thank you for this post.
I too am starting on April 6th from SJPP, and originally planned to stay at Orisson however we will have to wait and see till the day before to see if that’s possible. If the Napoleon route is closed and you see a lost Australian wandering around Valcarlos please wave me in the albergues direction
Either way it sounds like we shall probably meet on the way at some point.
Love your title, 'Old Dorset Tortoise'. I have often described myself as the tortoise from the Tortoise and the Hare. Will challenge you to a race to see who is the slowestI am also arriving in Valcarlos that Friday so hope to meet up with you there.
I think Valcarlos is quickly becoming my plan A as well, I’ve read in another post on the forum that the pilgrims office doesn’t expect the Napoleon route to be open before April 15, which given the weather in Europe the last few weeks I’m not surprised. Valcarlos research has begun. Good luck with your final preparations!Look forward to itWhy not just go Valcarlos. People say the scenery is great and it is up to the Spanish border. After that, I thought it was just OK until we came over the top and saw Roncesvalles below us and then it was great again. I had really wanted to do it again but started researching Valcarlos as a back up plan. Somewhere along the line, it became my plan A
Where are you staying in Saint Jean. Will watch out for you as we start. I have made my mind up that no matter if Napolean is open, I am going via ValCarlos. Try following the route on google maps and you should be ok.I think Valcarlos is quickly becoming my plan A as well, I’ve read in another post on the forum that the pilgrims office doesn’t expect the Napoleon route to be open before April 15, which given the weather in Europe the last few weeks I’m not surprised. Valcarlos research has begun. Good luck with your final preparations!
Walked the Valcarlos route two years ago. Never needed google maps. Just followed the markings. Scallops and arrows.Where are you staying in Saint Jean. Will watch out for you as we start. I have made my mind up that no matter if Napolean is open, I am going via ValCarlos. Try following the route on google maps and you should be ok.
I was not sure about the markings from St Jean to Arneguy. I had been told it was not well marked at all so I had a look at google maps to familiarise myself with the route. I take it from your reply that it is fairly well marked. I know that from ValCarlos on, there is good signageWalked the Valcarlos route two years ago. Never needed google maps. Just followed the markings. Scallops and arrows.
I'm staying in Gite Makila, which is apparently a few metres from the pilgrims office in SJPP. I don't arrive until Thursday evening, and given I'm not tackling the full day to Roncevalles, thought I would spend a couple of hours exploring St Jean before heading to Valcarlos mid-late morning. I've made peace with the Napolean probably being closed and am now after some research very excited (and committed) to take the seemingly path less travelled, so will definitely keep and eye out for you in Valcarlos Friday night.Where are you staying in Saint Jean. Will watch out for you as we start. I have made my mind up that no matter if Napolean is open, I am going via ValCarlos. Try following the route on google maps and you should be ok.
See you there I am at Villa Esponda that same night now off to bed for me. Busy day tomorrow Leaving tomorrow nightI'm staying in Gite Makila, which is apparently a few metres from the pilgrims office in SJPP. I don't arrive until Thursday evening, and given I'm not tackling the full day to Roncevalles, thought I would spend a couple of hours exploring St Jean before heading to Valcarlos mid-late morning. I've made peace with the Napolean probably being closed and am now after some research very excited (and committed) to take the seemingly path less travelled, so will definitely keep and eye out for you in Valcarlos Friday night.Have you bothered to email the albergue there to reserve, I've seen mixed comments about the need to on here. Not long now!
I am staying in Auberge Pellerin just down the street from the pilgrim office facing the hiking gear shop. Arriving mid afternoon on the 5th then setting out for ValCarlos around sunrise, 7:30 approximately. I have emailed ahead to ValCarlos and have a reservation. I was told that at weekends, it is sometimes used by Spanish walking clubs so thought it would be wiser to book ahead on this occasion. For the first time I have three nights in a row reserved, St Jean, ValCarlos and Roncesvalles. I too have made peace with no Napolean route to the point that even if it was open, I am still going ValCarlos. Seems a week or so back, the snow on even Valcarlos was about a meter deep. I saw a picture on facebook taken today of the mountains from Saint Jean. They look clear of snow but then, when I crossed in 2015 they looked the same. However, although passable and the weather was good, there was still a lot of snow lying on the Spanish side of the border. Hopefully, we will meet up for a little while but as I am a slow stroller, you will be flying on up the trail on your own leaving this old tortoise behindI'm staying in Gite Makila, which is apparently a few metres from the pilgrims office in SJPP. I don't arrive until Thursday evening, and given I'm not tackling the full day to Roncevalles, thought I would spend a couple of hours exploring St Jean before heading to Valcarlos mid-late morning. I've made peace with the Napolean probably being closed and am now after some research very excited (and committed) to take the seemingly path less travelled, so will definitely keep and eye out for you in Valcarlos Friday night.Have you bothered to email the albergue there to reserve, I've seen mixed comments about the need to on here. Not long now!
Will look it up, sounds goodA rather nice tienda/bar/restaurant who are well used to and very welcoming of those wide eyed peregrinos on their first day who really need to practice their Spanish, are just a little bit sideways but still want to be a 'proper' peregrino. They won't remember me but I remember them with real affection
For now this albergue it's not open.Has anyone heard anything about Auberge du Pelerin in Saint Jean. I have a reservation there for next Thursday and I heard today they have closed down and not made any refunds. Can anyone confirm before I start looking for alternative accommodation
Good luck with your early start tomorrow!I am staying in Auberge Pellerin just down the street from the pilgrim office facing the hiking gear shop. Arriving mid afternoon on the 5th then setting out for ValCarlos around sunrise, 7:30 approximately. I have emailed ahead to ValCarlos and have a reservation. I was told that at weekends, it is sometimes used by Spanish walking clubs so thought it would be wiser to book ahead on this occasion. For the first time I have three nights in a row reserved, St Jean, ValCarlos and Roncesvalles. I too have made peace with no Napolean route to the point that even if it was open, I am still going ValCarlos. Seems a week or so back, the snow on even Valcarlos was about a meter deep. I saw a picture on facebook taken today of the mountains from Saint Jean. They look clear of snow but then, when I crossed in 2015 they looked the same. However, although passable and the weather was good, there was still a lot of snow lying on the Spanish side of the border. Hopefully, we will meet up for a little while but as I am a slow stroller, you will be flying on up the trail on your own leaving this old tortoise behind
Hola,I stayed in Valcarlos at the albergue in April 2015 and again in 2017. A very nice place! The first year it was my son and myself and one couple who were Italian. Last year it was my family of four, plus one hospitalier (I say that loosely) staying there. A very clean place and very relaxing experience. We had a nice dinner at the nearby bar. I like that route very much as it has lots of variety in scenery.
I do not exactly remember, but I don't remember thinking anything negative about the experience, nor do I recall feeling cold in bed. I do remember the water in the showers was nice and hot...does that help?Hola,
Do you remember whether the albergue was heated in April?
Yes, thank you!I do not exactly remember, but I don't remember thinking anything negative about the experience, nor do I recall feeling cold in bed. I do remember the water in the showers was nice and hot...does that help?
I do not exactly remember, but I don't remember thinking anything negative about the experience, nor do I recall feeling cold in bed. I do remember the water in the showers was nice and hot...does that help?
Thank you!I don't remember heating but I presume there must be some as I do remember being warm and comfortable and that there were blankets folded at the bottom of the bunk.
I stayed there once. I don't know if it was heated, but it is a nice and clean albergue and Valcarlos a nice small town.Hola,
Do you remember whether the albergue was heated in April?
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