Wyvernsridge
Alex from Australia
- Time of past OR future Camino
- CF-Oct 2013; CN-Sep 2015; CF-Apr 2015
CP-Sep 2022
For 2024 Pilgrims: €50,- donation = 1 year with no ads on the forum + 90% off any 2024 Guide. More here. (Discount code sent to you by Private Message after your donation) |
---|
Yes, few English speakers, but I guess that is how Koreans feel on the CF. Is it such a bad thing? As for age, yes, a bit younger, but also not as many "just out of uni and on a gap year" pilgrims. Mostly 30-55. A lot less "religious" also: no pilgrim masses or blessings as you get so much of on the CF. But fenomenal towns and cities: San Seb, Bilbao, Guernika, Santander, Oviedo.... And as Kanga said, the views, the sea, the beaches...A very well presented point of view.
However, I have a difficult time recognizing the report as the same camino that we walked in August-September of 2014. Most of the comments run very different than my experience.
I have walked most of the other main routes...some more than once. The Norte, in my opinion, is the equal of the others in most ways. The majority of pilgrims walking at the same time were German, Dutch, Austrian and Spanish...with many others thrown in. Most were younger ( everyone is younger than me) and on their first Camino...having heard of the crowded conditions on the CF.
I guess this is a good example of how we all seem to experience the adventure in a different way. What and who you experience is very likely to be very different.
Primitivo - not 'primitive' but 'primary' or 'original' is the translation............. I thought - wow, del Norte should be called Primitivo because in comparison del Norte felt less trodden, more erratic and varied and all 'round unpredictable, I.e., primitive!. ........!
I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.
As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.
I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. .
You miss my pun! Sometimes there is great joy in words!Primitivo - not 'primitive' but 'primary' or 'original' is the translation.
For me it is the northern Caminos that call, never the Francés, but each to their own calling and perception of the route.
Thank you for the detailed report. It confirmed my suspicions, from other things I had read and heard, that it was not the route for me. Very informative!
I also did the Camino del Norte this year, end of July til Sept. A large amount of young people and noise and drinking at night til pass midnight. Nevertheless myself and two ladies made sure to by pass them. Then there was a group of Italians age 4o'sh. very noisy and leaving at 4 AM we eventually lost them and had a nice Camino. Aviles was the worst albergue I had ever stayed it was dirty and one could tell it had not been clean. Other than that we enjoyed our Camino sometime staying at private albergues like the one called Casa Carmina beautiful place huge back yard and it was exceptional..nona made a vegetable soup for starters that was delicious. Very well run and exceptionally clean, lunch and dinner was served well priced, breakfast was served in the morning. I also noted that bed bugs seemed to be more prevalent on this Camino I saw and knew a few who were infected next to me. I was careful and spared all my belongings with Permethrin. I found one bed bug on my hoodie which had been lying on my Mochila and it was dead due to the spray. I highly recommend one is careful. All in all with all the drama it was a pleasant Camino my second Norte. The view on the Norte is spendid and the playas exceptional.I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.
As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.
I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.
Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.
Laurie, I felt I should mark this![...] For those I can suggest the Salvador/Primitivo, the Invierno, the Vdlp, the Sanabrés, and the Aragonés, and probably a few I am forgetting. These are places where pilgrim accommodations lag behind the Francés "standard," to varying degrees, and in some cases there are essentially no other pilgrims, but in any event, they are all routes that leave no doubt in your mind that you are on a Camino, whatever that may mean to you. Buen camino,Laurie
Laurie, I felt I should mark this!And at the same time ask for less publicity on these beautiful alternatives, lest it degrades (did I write this?) to the Francés.
Yes lots of other caminos. Just got a newsletter this morning re the via di Francesco in Italy .a new guidebook has just been published by Cicerone.Goes from Florence to Rome via Assisi. The feet have begun to itch!!! We have also walked the Camino Norte so will reply to that gentleman seperatelyThere are numerous other " caminos" in other countries beyond just Spain.
Each offer plenty of serendipitous opportunities and potential negative outcomes.
Much depends on your current expectations, needs and desires, your surroundings, the weather, and a host of other variable factors which themselves can change over time.
Nothing in this world including the Camino remains static, so venture forth, fully prepared and not prepared at all.
We walked the Camino Norte in 2009 from Irun to Aviles and yes it was a hard enough one. The only guide book we had was the basic one from the confraternity of St James,so used the accommodation info in that which was very basic at times. We found the albergues to be very very very basic so usually stayed in pensions as cheaply as we could get,which when looking back seemed quiet expensive even now. I do remember the albergue with the rats, apparently it is housed in an old prison?? The pilgrims were apparently sleeping on the tables THEN! I can't remember the infrastructure being too bad but in 9 years I would have thought it would have improved also. The thing we remember most is the beautiful coastal scenery on one side and the Picos de Europa on the other . Often we would suddenly come upon a wonderful beach with some kind of cafe making kiosk. There is actually a lot of road walking on it but whether that has changed??? The infrastructure is much different than the France's and hopefully those walking it will understand this .we however were young and foolish in our mid 50s and just took off!! but we loved it and did not mind that there were VERY FEW pilgrims on it.hardly ever met anyone walking it. Might have changed now but I think those looking for solitude would like it. Also needs to be a bit fitter for this one!!I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.
As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.
I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.
Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.
Am glad you enjoyed it.we loved the beaches and the scenery but yes it is a harder one than the France's. We enjoyed it 6 years ago. The infrastructure seems to be a bit better now but back then we did not have too many expectations,just walked and stayed where we could. The thing about the caminos though is that they are all so different and people really need to try and realise this. Otherwise there is only disappointment and what they want is not always what they get.I disagree with the original post and have attached some comments. This route, imo, is maybe the best of the Camino's I have walked. Only a 345 word response.
Ultreya,
Joe
@marylynn, please note that there is disagreement with the report posted above.
Personally, I found the report very well written and presented...BUT basically disagree with the content. My experience was very different.
I would suggest considering further research before deciding on the route.
Thank you for the detailed report. It confirmed my suspicions, from other things I had read and heard, that it was not the route for me. Very informative!
The albergue in Comillas in the old jail is still open, and has good reviews in Eroski. It's albergue La Pena. The albrergue that according to fellow walkers last fall had rats then is in the monastery en route to Guernika, with the monks.The albergue in the old prison closed some years ago (maybe 2011/12) ans a new one was opened. This is true too of some of the other albergues and many new ones are now in place - eg Pendueles had no accomodation in 2009, by 2013 it had private rooms and a private albergue, now 2 albergues.... So the infrastructure has improved but may not meet the expectations of those who have walked the Francés.
The albergue that according to fellow walkers last fall had rats then is in the monastery en route to Guernika, with the monks.
I was thinking of a different albergue. The one in Comillas was lovely when we looked in, modernised in 2013 or before.The albergue in Comillas in the old jail is still open, and has good reviews in Eroski. It's albergue La Pena. The albrergue that according to fellow walkers last fall had rats then is in the monastery en route to Guernika, with the monks.
We could not believe how many people just hurried through , head down and continued.... not one stopped to look at the groups entertaining
I suppose when they get home they will say they were there and experienced this wonderful sight.
But that doesn't mean some walkers are not looking forward to a night in the moastery... Untill it's too late.But there's a perfectly good albergue above the bar/restaurant just before the monastery
I asked a fellow pilgrim what he thought of the Cathedral in Burgos. "I walked straight past it" he said. Extraordinary to me but I think that tends to change after the first camino. The first one is all about "making it" to Santiago.
I hear some of you say albergues with rats, industrial areas, towns with no food and some other negative points which I totally understand and appreciate but if you are trying to help could you provide us with albergues names? Town names? Locations? That would be very valuable info to someone contemplating doing the Camino del Norte since I'm sure must have some beautiful sections as well.
Thanks
Zzotte
I hear some of you say albergues with rats, industrial areas, towns with no food and some other negative points which I totally understand and appreciate but if you are trying to help could you provide us with albergues names? Town names? Locations? That would be very valuable info to someone contemplating doing the Camino del Norte since I'm sure must have some beautiful sections as well.
Thanks
Zzotte
I hear some of you say albergues with rats, industrial areas, towns with no food and some other negative points which I totally understand and appreciate but if you are trying to help could you provide us with albergues names? Town names? Locations? That would be very valuable info to someone contemplating doing the Camino del Norte since I'm sure must have some beautiful sections as well.
Thanks
Zzotte
Interesting report. Again highlighting that we all have different experiences and perceptions
Doesn't sounds like a Camino I would enjoy though.......... I need my coffee every couple of hours and a decent Casa Rural
Plus lots of road walking kills my Achilles Tendons. I wouldn't make it
But that doesn't mean some walkers are not looking forward to a night in the moastery... Untill it's too late.
IMO there are no 'towns without food'. At least I never encountered any trouble in this respect.
Walking in and out of Gyon and Bilbao is a bit industrial, but nothing too bad: IMO a bit of a suburban industrial slog is an integral part of any camino.
Not so. The Jumbo near Ballas Artes and Opencor are open or Sundays as are mom and pop shops in the old town. It is harder to find grocery stores than on other days but there are places open, including bakeries.Both Gijon and Bilbao would qualify as towns without supermarket food on a Sunday were it not for SuperCor - also Santander with no supermarket open on Sunday
Both Gijon and Bilbao would qualify as towns without supermarket food on a Sunday were it not for SuperCor - also Santander with no supermarket open on Sunday
Thanks for this very generous submission. I was supposed to be on the del Norte in September but had to cancel the camino adventure. One day and when it comes I will be better prepared. Best wishes.I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.
As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.
I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.
Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.
Not so. The Jumbo near Ballas Artes and Opencor are open or Sundays as are mom and pop shops in the old town. It is harder to find grocery stores than on other days but there are places open, including bakeries.
Just to add my three half pence worth, I walked from Castro Urdiales to Santander about a month ago on the Camino del Norte and did not enjoy it. The scenery may be nicer than the Camino Frances but there was too much walking on main roads and other hard surfaces and at one time I had to clamber over a rocky path over a headland with the ever present possibility of spraining an ankle or worse.
Being of an elderly disposition I cannot comment on albergues as for comfort and with a fear of bed bugs I stayed in casas rurals and small hotels.
I met very few other pilgrims, the exception being a group of eight Irishwomen that I met at dinner one night.
I have completed the Camino Frances and there was nothing like the sociability encountered there.
I do not intend to walk any more stages of the Norte based on my experience.
I have walked the Camino Portugues from Belorado to Pontevedra and found it very enjoyable.
I would recommend the Portugues for anyone who has done the Frances and is looking for another Camino to walk.
Pardon me. I didn't realise that things were getting so hot that we needed a woman to get between us! I thought we were merely giving opinions.
I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.
As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.
I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.
Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.
Hello Alex,I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.
As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.
I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.
Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.
Hello Alex,
Just a note to thank you for your file which I found well written and v informative . I agree with your assumption that we are looking alternatives to the over busy Frances which for me was often about covering distance and evenings socialising . As an alternative I tried the CPI in mid Portugal for a week in Oct an like you on the Norte found it different . This is a route the Portuguese local councils are trying to resurrect to bring tourists to a an area lacking economic growth , but the pilgrims aren't coming and the natives don't hike -- I walked for five days without meeting another soul and stayed in alberge's solo where no one had slept for the previous week . I stayed in small hotels for some company most nights , but it is a beautiful walk especially from Viseu and up through the Douro valley with its vineyards and is good for meditation and relaxation ,one could however keel over and not be found for some time it is solitary .
My plan for 2016 was to walk some kms from Irun, your notes suggest to me that my CPI experience will assist me on the less developed Norte .
I quite enjoy heading off in the morning not knowing where I will finish or what I will get to eat /drink during the day , something turns up !
Thanks again,
James
Hi Annette, I walked the via Francigena last October. I can recommend it highly. Some suggestions are a good place to begin is Lucca. Also don't do this one alone something I would not say in Spain. I ended up at the last minute walking with, because I met them the night before I began walking, an Italian man, a French lady and 2 Irish. We all had different nationalities guide books and we needed all of them not to get to lost. I also found that you aren't always welcome by the local farmers to use the path even though it is clearly the path. Fabulous walking, but you must be willing to cheat and use a bus every now and then.Yes lots of other caminos. Just got a newsletter this morning re the via di Francesco in Italy .a new guidebook has just been published by Cicerone.Goes from Florence to Rome via Assisi. The feet have begun to itch!!! We have also walked the Camino Norte so will reply to that gentleman seperately
Yes I agree about not walking alone as so few people walking it and it is a bit remote at times. We met a German lady who had been harrised a few times. We walked with her and an American guy for a few days and we had a great laugh. We found that from Verchelli to Lucca there was a lot of road walking and one area on a main road past industrial sites for about 20km. Not pleasant.we had good maps but I think the routes marked on it often changed so we just followed the arrows. Got pretty lost once and had to hitch! It was the road walking even on small roads that we did not like as so hard on the feet. The people we met were so nice however. Yes we would like to do the way now from Lucca but this new guide via Francesco has caught my eye!! So many "ways" so little time as we are getting older!!! Best wishes AnnetteHi Annette, I walked the via Francigena last October. I can recommend it highly. Some suggestions are a good place to begin is Lucca. Also don't do this one alone something I would not say in Spain. I ended up at the last minute walking with, because I met them the night before I began walking, an Italian man, a French lady and 2 Irish. We all had different nationalities guide books and we needed all of them not to get to lost. I also found that you aren't always welcome by the local farmers to use the path even though it is clearly the path. Fabulous walking, but you must be willing to cheat and use a bus every now and then.
Yes it a shame as it's such a beautiful cathedral as is the one in Leon. We don't tend to visit museums or buildings other than churches but I have to "pop in" to every little church that is open along the way to light a candle even though we don't walk as pilgrims. Closet ones perhaps!!We asked a fellow pilgrim what he thought of the Cathedral in Burgos. "I walked straight past it" he said. Extraordinary to me but I think that tends to change after the first camino. The first one is all about "making it" to Santiago.
I walked the Camino del Norte from Irún to Santiago during September, October 2015. This was my second Camino, having walked the Camino Frances from SJPdP to Santiago in 2013. Like many others, my choice to walk a different Camino was made on the basis of seeing a different side of Spain on a Camino that was not as crowded as the Camino Frances. I have since learnt that this is a very common reason for walking the coastal route.
As I walked, I discovered many things that might have influenced my decision to walk the Camino del Norte and which I had not seen on the Forum discussions (or if they were there, they were diffused across many conversation threads). This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”.
I know that we are all are enthusiasts of the Camino, and it feels somehow wrong to write stuff that is not necessarily complementary, but I am trying to be both balanced and thorough here. Finally, let me add a caveat. These are my views, which exist within a spectrum of views from people that have walked the Camino del Norte. Others may disagree with specific comments or judgements, and I look forward to a good discussion in the comments.
Because of the 10,000 character limit on posts, I have attached a .pdf file containing the full document.
Yes every Camino is different as is each walker or pilgrim travelling along them and it should not be a case of "my way or no way" there will be positive or negative reactions to each Camino depending on what each persons expectations are. Some caminos are more conducive to those who like solitude and visa versa. Therefore it is important that all views are considered and accepted as such otherwise those pilgrims with less than positive opinions will be reluctant to post information for others looking for advice .then people can make up their own minds. Of course we liked some caminos more than others but enjoyed them all.I think we can all disagree without getting personal about it. Obviously many on this forum had a different experience on the Norte to the OP (including me) but that is no reason to blame or attack him. He is telling his experience and that is valuable alternative information for prospective pilgrims.
I, like LT, have enjoyed every one of my caminos and would walk each one again without hesitation. Partly that is because I start every camino without any expectations, except to walk. In my enthusiasm to encourage others I don't talk about the negatives because I don't see them that way. Giving space for other views may help new walkers be more prepared and less likely to be disappointed.
I have been watching this thread with fascination, having met Alex and had the pleasure of listening to him speak about his first camino. I think he should be congratulated for executing the most brilliant piece of trolling I have seen. Even better, he did so in an informative and entertaining way. Pure class, Alex. Well done.I think we can all disagree without getting personal about it. Obviously many on this forum had a different experience on the Norte to the OP (including me) but that is no reason to blame or attack him. He is telling his experience and that is valuable alternative information for prospective pilgrims.
A few thoughts, for one I only came across one hostel the entire time that I found unpleasant, it was in sebrayo, covered in mold, the mattresses were gross and flies were extremely thick. Other than that I really can't complain. In fact many time I would have thought, any nicer and it would sort of take away from the experience lol I think this is subjective and will differ from each person's perspective, if you have only stayed in 5-star hotels with room service than yes I would imagine you would be very disappointing with the accommodations. I was just happy if they were clean, and by clean I mean no bugs in my bed haha.
As far as the physical challenge, it was the hardest thing I've ever done in my life, and I am 24 yrs old, a runner, and would consider myself very in shape. Every single day in the first two weeks was an incredible struggle. But the reward at the end of the day was always worth it, getting/making good food, relaxing, enjoying the beach etc. I think it built character, my mantra during the tough times was frequently "if I can do this I can do anything." This got me up many hills...
Regarding the availability of hostels, we basically made it our routine to be up by 5 and walking by 6, if we didn't do this we were sure to get there too late, and have to walk further or spend extra money. knowing spaces were limited just caused us to be more prepared.As far as not being able to find bars/restaurants, again, just learned to be prepared. If my book said no facilities, then I would stop at a grocery store early in the day, or buy extra the day before. Not eating anything between breakfast and dinner, well I'm sorry to say is no one's fault but your own.
Final thoughts - even if every hostel was disgusting and I thought things were as bad as you described, I would probably do it all again, because the natural beauty the norte provided was indescribable. It would surpass any and all unpleasantness for me. Every day was an adventure and a treat for my eyes. Also from what I've heard about the Frances, I would never walk that trail! The herds fo people sounds horrible. But then again I am more of an introvert. Other people draw energy from socialization, I do not. Just an example of why everyone can walk the same trail and have such vastly different opinions, I just hope new people don't read this and decide the Norte isn't for them. But then again, I would like to do it again someday and hope it doesn't gain too much popularity, so on second thought, spread the word
LOL! As chief troll on this forum, that is praise indeed.I have been watching this thread with fascination, having met Alex and had the pleasure of listening to him speak about his first camino. I think he should be congratulated for executing the most brilliant piece of trolling I have seen. Even better, he did so in an informative and entertaining way. Pure class, Alex. Well done.
No, @Felice, I am a mere apprentice! There are many more masterful than I.LOL! As chief troll on this forum, that is praise indeed.
Hi Kanga, I corresponded with you early 2014 before my first Camino adventure from SJDP. This year I walked from Le Puy. I am deciding for May 2016, Camino Northern or Camino Portugal. Research tells me the Portugal can become busy with many Pilgrims. I really enjoyed my Le Puy adventure. What are your thoughts. GregInteresting read. I do not disagree with it except you missed saying the landscape is very beautiful. The coastal views are spectacular. So are the lush green mountains. In spring the flowers were amazing. That in itself is a good reason to walk the Norte. It is also the reason I would not have wanted to miss walking from Irun to San Sebastien or the other "difficult" bits.
In some ways the path and albergues and coffee "stops" are similar to the Camino Frances as it was when I first walked 14 years ago. Since then the infrastructure on the Frances has improved out of sight - to me the current infrastructure is amazing. I suspect that in time the same is likely to happen on the Norte, especially as local entrepreneurs find ways of supplementing their income. There also used to be more road walking on the Camino Frances but over time safety of pilgrims has become a priority and that of necessity involves less road walking. Although that is less likely, unless paths are re-routed.
Not sure if I'm really entitled to add anything as I still can't read the original document (must be a problem with my tablet, or possibly its owner), but after four whole days, I'd say:
- the Norte is probably the best marked camino I've been on
- I knew it wasn't a stroll along the beach, but was surprised by 5000' of elevation between Comillas and Pendueles (lovely, but quite a lot)
- normally on my caminos, 1km walked will get you 1km closer to Santiago, more or less. On the Norte it seems to be often much less - yesterday in Nueva I saw a sign saying Ribadesella 10km and thought "that's closer than I expected": it wasn't, it was 13km by the camino.
- there is more loo paper on the trail than I'm used to (but I've never been on the Francés)
- a lot of places do close for the winter (which, in my experiences of the Levante and the Plata, they VERY rarely do)
- I wasn't expecting the sea to be so warm and calm to swim in in mid November, which is slowing my progress
- I have eaten a LOT of mostly very good fish, including a 1/4kg of percebes for €10, perhaps 1/4 the cost in Santiago, lots of wonderfully fresh mussels, some memorable sopa de mariscos, some tiny explode in your mouth navajas, perfectly fresh swordfish and sardines, and mostly (not the barnacles, obviously) included in the menú del día, or pretty cheap. In fact I haven't eaten any meat since leaving the mountains, better have some fabada before I leave Asturias.
...... This is my attempt to bring some of these issues together so that others may be better informed before making a decision to “head North”. ......
Kanga, I have walked the Le Puy over 2 summers staying mostly in campgrounds. I have not read much about camping the Norte. Are there many campsites along the way? We are walking June 2016. Thanks, JamesGreg, I think if you liked the Le Puy you will love the Norte. It has more in common with the Le Puy than with the Francės. I can't comment on the Portuguese because I have not walked it.
It also depends on if Churches hold any interest for you. I wouldn't have minded seeing a couple more than we did whereas my husband had more than his fill with the few we visited. (Burgos was one of themDepends also on whether you are a journey or destination walker. Different focus. I've always espoused the former as there is no 'failure' and every completed day is a destination in itself.
Hmmm why cant i open the OP's pdf file?
... Apples.....pffff
I am an out of shape 46 year old from Vancouver, and I have done the Norte twice. We did it in smaller stages, with a few taxi-bag transports for the biggest hills, but the scenery, the solitude the camaraderie, I am having trouble getting to the Frances! Give it some serious thought Marylynn, for a Camino fan, the Coastal Route should not be missed.Thanks for the information. I have a Camino friend who just finished the Norte and he said it was hard but wonderful. I'm looking forward to seeing his photos. I will stay open-minded. Thank you!
There is not much camping on the Norte. We met friends in 2013 who camped all through France but sent their gear back as the entered Spain due to the dearth of camping facilities on the Norte.Kanga, I have walked the Le Puy over 2 summers staying mostly in campgrounds. I have not read much about camping the Norte. Are there many campsites along the way? We are walking June 2016. Thanks, James
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?