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Hi SusanGreetings!
I'd like to walk Le Puy to Cahors in mid September/early October 2022 and wonder if I am likely to meet up with other pilgrims/hikers? I'm hoping to at least have others in line of sight in the more remote areas. Any thoughts on this or safety in general on that route?
Also wondering if anyone can recommend lodgings in Le Puy where I might meet up with a good sized group of people departing--as I've experienced in SJPP, for instance.
All suggestions/thoughts welcome, and thank you!
Annie, thank you so much for this helpful and encouraging response! I will certainly follow your advice.Hi Susan
I walked out of Le Puy early sept 2016.
Weather was okay from memory.
I stayed 2 nights in the Grand Seminaire which is behind the cathedral. If you look in Gronze it will give you email info to request a reservation if you choose it. So much to see in Le Puy and drink it all in slowly.
If you look at Gronze.com and select ‘routes in France ‘ you will get a lot of info on accommodations for the entire chemin. Also shows profile map and distances to next village.
I didn’t experience any moments where i felt unsafe. It is a lovely route.
If you attend the 7am mass in the cathedral (open to all) - the pilgrims all depart down the stairway in centre of the cathedral. It feeds out to the walk the street downhill & out. There were ‘droves’ of us leaving after mass. If you aren’t already with anyone by that time - you can walk with the wave .. gradually people thin themselves out though.
In 2016 I used the ‘Miam Miam dodo ‘ guide which is in French but so easy to understand. Phone numbers and email addresses are universal. Against the accommodation listings they used to add the flagto indicate that there was an English speaker at that gite or chambre d’hôtel, hotel , etc.
There are many ‘map’ and online guides nowadays which may offer similar info and the gps mapping apps give security regarding knowing where you are if you’ve taken the wrong directional sign.
Note : recommend you book ahead especially to chambre d’hôtes - even if it is that morning. Best to book a day ahead though but you will hear of people who manage without doing this. It is courtesy.
I found that weekend could be booked out earlier (french walkers ) so often booking the weekends a few days earlier can help.
I carried something to eat for a picnic lunch and /or hunger. Water bottles can always (usually ?) be filled at taps in cemeteries you pass if you are running low.
I’ll add a screen shot of the Gronze page I opened showing some of the Le Puy accommodation.
You’ll love it.
Bon chemin
Annie
Hello! I hiked the first half of Le Puy last fall same time and it was great. Most of the time I hiked alone but sometimes I hiked with others. I would recommend booking ahead especially in Le Puy as it is their annual Renaissance festival the third weekend in September. The large majority of hikers were French and most didn’t speak English so I’d recommend also practicing your French. It was lovely and a great experience. This fall I am continuing from Cahors to Eauze for 11 days. Also I felt very safe. Have fun!Greetings!
I'd like to walk Le Puy to Cahors in mid September/early October 2022 and wonder if I am likely to meet up with other pilgrims/hikers? I'm hoping to at least have others in line of sight in the more remote areas. Any thoughts on this or safety in general on that route?
Also wondering if anyone can recommend lodgings in Le Puy where I might meet up with a good sized group of people departing--as I've experienced in SJPP, for instance.
All suggestions/thoughts welcome, and thank you!
You have gotten very good advice and guidance here. I am sure the route has more pilgrims than when I walked in 2015. I encountered many people in the Gites. Virtually everyone was French and I met just a few people the whole way who spoke any English. When I walked I was the only person that was a "pilgrim" walking to Santiago. Just about everyone was small groups of friends and just about all of them were retired.I think they would be better described as hikers enjoying a holiday. They were friendly and nice but they were walking in their own group of friends. I was never invited to join a group. It was the nature of the camino. I walked alone every day and barely ever saw someone else walking. I had no cell phone. Nothing. Planning would help alot. I had the Gite owners call ahead to the next Gite to make me a reservation. Owners do not like people just showing up because they are preparing dinner and often breakfast and want to know how many people are coming. Very dIfferent camino from the CF. Maybe now there are more traditional pilgrims from many countries. Others would know better than me.In 2016 I used the ‘Miam Miam dodo ‘ guide which is in French but so easy to understand. Phone numbers and email addresses are universal.
On a final note make sure you get the Miam Miam dodo guide. I had a Michelin guide that was almost useless. Also when I walked there were towns on the Michelin guide that I thought I could eat and rest and they turned out to be hamlets of just a few buildings. Also there never seemed to be any rhyme or reason to when shops or cafes would be open in villages. There were a few days I did not eat anything from morning until I arrived at the end of the day. Again maybe things have changed. I learned to buy food whenever I could to carry. I never knew when I may need some so i had some canned goods to open and eat if there was nothing.I carried something to eat for a picnic lunch and /or hunger. Water bottles can always (usually ?) be filled at taps in cemeteries you pass if you are running low.
How wonderful to wake to these inspiring and helpful replies! Thank so much for the encouragement. I was feeling a bit trepidatious about safety in so much solitude, but am not at all now having read all of your accounts.
Does anyone have a particularly wonderful site or chambre d'hôte to recommend? I believe I'll have time to walk from just Le Puy to Cahors.
Thank you so much!Relais des jacobins at Cahors. Maybe not the most fancy gite but good pilgrim spirit.
The gite at the abbey at Conques is nice for similar reasons. Don't miss the monks explaining the tympanon of the church. Mass and pilgrim's blessing are lovely. They also have a nice garden where you can relax.
So helpful, thanks! May I ask what tent you brought and how much weight you're carrying? Also, do you travel with a sleeping bag? I've just brought a liner on the CF.I am currently a week into the Le Puy route as a solo female. I only know a few words of French. So far I have felt perfectly safe and I'm having a wonderful time. Nearly all the hikers are French and very few speak English but they have been very friendly. I have been booking about five days ahead with accommodation but I have my tent with me which gives me more flexibility. I'm very glad I brought it and French campsites are lovely, some gites let you camp in the garden as well. I highly recommend miam miam dodo, you don't need to be able to read the French. It's been my gospel. It's so beautiful here!
I have a Big Agnes MtnGlo 1 person hiking tent. I have my liner and sleeping bag. My sleeping bag doesn't weigh much and I didn't want to be caught out if it did get colder than expected, especially sleeping outside. So far the liner has been fine. I am carrying about 11kg. Due to the heat I usually have 2 litres of water with me and I always have some food as rest stops aren't dependable. Also to save money I make my own meals sometimes. If I was tougher with myself I could probably cut that weight a bit more. To book accommodation I just use the email addresses in miam miam dodo and that's worked fine. I have heard the tourist offices will help if needed and you can ask gite owners to make phone calls on your behalf but I haven't needed any help yet.So helpful, thanks! May I ask what tent you brought and how much weight you're carrying? Also, do you travel with a sleeping bag? I've just brought a liner on the CF.
I have been walking all the caminos in Spain and France & Portugal since 2006 through 2021 alone and I have never encountered any problems! Except some knee injury. Plenty of fellow pilgrims but also long stretches alone. EnjoyGreetings!
I'd like to walk Le Puy to Cahors in mid September/early October 2022 and wonder if I am likely to meet up with other pilgrims/hikers? I'm hoping to at least have others in line of sight in the more remote areas. Any thoughts on this or safety in general on that route?
Also wondering if anyone can recommend lodgings in Le Puy where I might meet up with a good sized group of people departing--as I've experienced in SJPP, for instance.
All suggestions/thoughts welcome, and thank you!
You will want to use Miam Miam (as suggested elsewhere) because that is the guide most people on this trail use and if you stay in gites recommended by the guide you will share dinner w fellow hikers every night. The food is unbelievably good. If you speak French, that is very helpful. If not, try to learn a little? When I hikes this in summer 2021, I did not encounter another native English speaker for days so my French improved. It is not like Frances where English becomes default language among a group from many countries. Le Puy Route is largely traveled by French randonneurs. Note the first few days of this hike are quite challenging so I advise you to train harder than I did.Greetings!
I'd like to walk Le Puy to Cahors in mid September/early October 2022 and wonder if I am likely to meet up with other pilgrims/hikers? I'm hoping to at least have others in line of sight in the more remote areas. Any thoughts on this or safety in general on that route?
Also wondering if anyone can recommend lodgings in Le Puy where I might meet up with a good sized group of people departing--as I've experienced in SJPP, for instance.
All suggestions/thoughts welcome, and thank you!
YesThank you for this very helpful guidance, Scott! Any favorite gites or chambers d'hôte you'd recommend?
Encouraging, thanks!!I have been walking all the caminos in Spain and France & Portugal since 2006 through 2021 alone and I have never encountered any problems! Except some knee injury. Plenty of fellow pilgrims but also long stretches alone. Enjoy
I did study martial arts( black belt) but have never had to use it
So helpful, Scott--thank you!!YesGite de la Virlange (lovely host & greet food) La Ferme du Barry (feels luxe & great food), Hotel Restaurant L’Horlage (Auvillar) eat at their restaurant book dinner w room, Gite Etap Le Nid des Anges (great host & food), L’Oree du Chemin (French obsessed w this one claim owner/chef michelin quality make sure to confirm your rez two days before arrival or they cancel). Dinner at these places is a 2-hour affair so you will get to know people. When you can, buy lunch to carry as the French will plop down and picnic at the proper lunch hour and if you roll into town at 2:30 good luck getting food before dinner. Orange juice is your new best friend at the end of a long stage.
Also Chez Fanny & Jeremy in Chely St Aubrac really lovely people, which is nice because comes at end of a tough stage.YesGite de la Virlange (lovely host & greet food) La Ferme du Barry (feels luxe & great food), Hotel Restaurant L’Horlage (Auvillar) eat at their restaurant book dinner w room, Gite Etap Le Nid des Anges (great host & food), L’Oree du Chemin (French obsessed w this one claim owner/chef michelin quality make sure to confirm your rez two days before arrival or they cancel). Dinner at these places is a 2-hour affair so you will get to know people. When you can, buy lunch to carry as the French will plop down and picnic at the proper lunch hour and if you roll into town at 2:30 good luck getting food before dinner. Orange juice is your new best friend at the end of a long stage.
Oh. I did bring a small pepper spray. Only one time did I even think I might need it, but felt good to have it. You’ll need to check a bag to bring it but it’s legal to bring. Make sure you practice using it (and don’t spray into wind on this trial).Thank you for this very helpful guidance, Scott! Any favorite gites or chambers d'hôte you'd recommend?
Good to know this, thanks.Oh. I did bring a small pepper spray. Only one time did I even think I might need it, but felt good to have it. You’ll need to check a bag to bring it but it’s legal to bring. Make sure you practice using it (and don’t spray into wind on this trial).
Despite my handle, I am a woman and I did feel safe. 2021 prob low ebb for Americans and Brits on the Le Puy, so you may well find more english speakers. Still vote for learning a little French because I found French people more willing to try their English on me if I tried to my French (maybr just to stop me?)Good to know this, thanks.
Enjoy! Your French will improve so much.Thanks for that clarification, Scott--indeed safety can be a different calculus for women than men.
I have basic French and am practicing as much as possible before I leave. Looking forward to improving it on the trek. My MM print is edition on order. I understand it's worth every ounce it weighs!
You have gotten very good advice and guidance here. I am sure the route has more pilgrims than when I walked in 2015. I encountered many people in the Gites. Virtually everyone was French and I met just a few people the whole way who spoke any English. When I walked I was the only person that was a "pilgrim" walking to Santiago. Just about everyone was small groups of friends and just about all of them were retired.I think they would be better described as hikers enjoying a holiday. They were friendly and nice but they were walking in their own group of friends. I was never invited to join a group. It was the nature of the camino. I walked alone every day and barely ever saw someone else walking. I had no cell phone. Nothing. Planning would help alot. I had the Gite owners call ahead to the next Gite to make me a reservation. Owners do not like people just showing up because they are preparing dinner and often breakfast and want to know how many people are coming. Very dIfferent camino from the CF. Maybe now there are more traditional pilgrims from many countries. Others would know better than me.
On a final note make sure you get the Miam Miam dodo guide. I had a Michelin guide that was almost useless. Also when I walked there were towns on the Michelin guide that I thought I could eat and rest and they turned out to be hamlets of just a few buildings. Also there never seemed to be any rhyme or reason to when shops or cafes would be open in villages. There were a few days I did not eat anything from morning until I arrived at the end of the day. Again maybe things have changed. I learned to buy food whenever I could to carry. I never knew when I may need some so i had some canned goods to open and eat if there was nothing.
I object to the suggestion that retired people walking the Way of St.James are not 'pilgrims'! It is not the fact that one is walking to Santiago that makes one a pilgrim. As for being 'invited' to join a group , how about being friendly and asking if you may walk with others? There was a comment recently complaining that in France, no-one spoke English - try going to Australia, Britain or the U.S and speaking French!! There are some truly lovely people on Le Chemin all doing their pilgrimage their way and there is simply no right or wrong way. People need to know how many people will be present for a meal as, in France, the supermarket are often 18kms or more away! But I am sure that no-one would turn away a young girl if they turned up unannounced - unless they were full. My partner and I have walked from Constance (Germany) across Switzerland ( and most of the Swiss routes during Covid) to Bayonne (France) and went to Mass whenever possible . We will continue to walk (if our health allows) to Santiago. We will do it is stages and on the way will visit any church or chapel that is open, we'll enjoy the beautiful scenery and all our meetings with all whom we come into contact with on the way. The Way has enriched our lives and if one day we arrive in Santiago we will give thanks for all the above and more. (I am 70 and very much a pilgrim)You have gotten very good advice and guidance here. I am sure the route has more pilgrims than when I walked in 2015. I encountered many people in the Gites. Virtually everyone was French and I met just a few people the whole way who spoke any English. When I walked I was the only person that was a "pilgrim" walking to Santiago. Just about everyone was small groups of friends and just about all of them were retired.I think they would be better described as hikers enjoying a holiday. They were friendly and nice but they were walking in their own group of friends. I was never invited to join a group. It was the nature of the camino. I walked alone every day and barely ever saw someone else walking. I had no cell phone. Nothing. Planning would help alot. I had the Gite owners call ahead to the next Gite to make me a reservation. Owners do not like people just showing up because they are preparing dinner and often breakfast and want to know how many people are coming. Very dIfferent camino from the CF. Maybe now there are more traditional pilgrims from many countries. Others would know better than me.
On a final note make sure you get the Miam Miam dodo guide. I had a Michelin guide that was almost useless. Also when I walked there were towns on the Michelin guide that I thought I could eat and rest and they turned out to be hamlets of just a few buildings. Also there never seemed to be any rhyme or reason to when shops or cafes would be open in villages. There were a few days I did not eat anything from morning until I arrived at the end of the day. Again maybe things have changed. I learned to buy food whenever I could to carry. I never knew when I may need some so i had some canned goods to open and eat if there was nothing.
I think there is a misunderstanding here. The trails on Le Puy are also part of a French heritage hiking network, so while there were plenty of Pilgrams when I walked in 2021, there were also many people hiking stretches on their vacation or retirement to see French cultural sites. They may be aware they are on a leg of the Chemin and they may not.I object to the suggestion that retired people walking the Way of St.James are not 'pilgrims'! It is not the fact that one is walking to Santiago that makes one a pilgrim. As for being 'invited' to join a group , how about being friendly and asking if you may walk with others? There was a comment recently complaining that in France, no-one spoke English - try going to Australia, Britain or the U.S and speaking French!! There are some truly lovely people on Le Chemin all doing their pilgrimage their way and there is simply no right or wrong way. People need to know how many people will be present for a meal as, in France, the supermarket are often 18kms or more away! But I am sure that no-one would turn away a young girl if they turned up unannounced - unless they were full. My partner and I have walked from Constance (Germany) across Switzerland ( and most of the Swiss routes during Covid) to Bayonne (France) and went to Mass whenever possible . We will continue to walk (if our health allows) to Santiago. We will do it is stages and on the way will visit any church or chapel that is open, we'll enjoy the beautiful scenery and all our meetings with all whom we come into contact with on the way. The Way has enriched our lives and if one day we arrive in Santiago we will give thanks for all the above and more. (I am 70 and very much a pilgrim)
I wish Susan all the very best on her walk and hope that she enjoys all the gifts that the way from Le Puy has to offer. (don't miss out on the monk in Conques who plays 'House of the Rising Sun'(Eric Clapton) on the church organ in the evening after he tells you all about the cathedral !)
I was traveling in the summer, so that means more people, but also during Covid travel restrictions, which meant fewer. I was with my daughter and we did not want for company. We often walked alone (though many days we did not) because of pace issues but we needn’t have. We met a range of people: solo women, retirees, students, families, adult children w parents. Conversations were wide ranging and interesting. Most people on the trail—whether for a chemin or a weekend hike—want a little adventure.I object to the suggestion that retired people walking the Way of St.James are not 'pilgrims'! It is not the fact that one is walking to Santiago that makes one a pilgrim. As for being 'invited' to join a group , how about being friendly and asking if you may walk with others? There was a comment recently complaining that in France, no-one spoke English - try going to Australia, Britain or the U.S and speaking French!! There are some truly lovely people on Le Chemin all doing their pilgrimage their way and there is simply no right or wrong way. People need to know how many people will be present for a meal as, in France, the supermarket are often 18kms or more away! But I am sure that no-one would turn away a young girl if they turned up unannounced - unless they were full. My partner and I have walked from Constance (Germany) across Switzerland ( and most of the Swiss routes during Covid) to Bayonne (France) and went to Mass whenever possible . We will continue to walk (if our health allows) to Santiago. We will do it is stages and on the way will visit any church or chapel that is open, we'll enjoy the beautiful scenery and all our meetings with all whom we come into contact with on the way. The Way has enriched our lives and if one day we arrive in Santiago we will give thanks for all the above and more. (I am 70 and very much a pilgrim)
I wish Susan all the very best on her walk and hope that she enjoys all the gifts that the way from Le Puy has to offer. (don't miss out on the monk in Conques who plays 'House of the Rising Sun'(Eric Clapton) on the church organ in the evening after he tells you all about the cathedral !)
I hope you are not referring to my remark that most people on the Le Puy are Francophone. It was not a criticism but a statement of fact in contrast to the Frances and it has to do with the fact that the GR65 is a popular national hiking trail distinct from it’s role as part of the Chemin.I object to the suggestion that retired people walking the Way of St.James are not 'pilgrims'! It is not the fact that one is walking to Santiago that makes one a pilgrim. As for being 'invited' to join a group , how about being friendly and asking if you may walk with others? There was a comment recently complaining that in France, no-one spoke English - try going to Australia, Britain or the U.S and speaking French!! There are some truly lovely people on Le Chemin all doing their pilgrimage their way and there is simply no right or wrong way. People need to know how many people will be present for a meal as, in France, the supermarket are often 18kms or more away! But I am sure that no-one would turn away a young girl if they turned up unannounced - unless they were full. My partner and I have walked from Constance (Germany) across Switzerland ( and most of the Swiss routes during Covid) to Bayonne (France) and went to Mass whenever possible . We will continue to walk (if our health allows) to Santiago. We will do it is stages and on the way will visit any church or chapel that is open, we'll enjoy the beautiful scenery and all our meetings with all whom we come into contact with on the way. The Way has enriched our lives and if one day we arrive in Santiago we will give thanks for all the above and more. (I am 70 and very much a pilgrim)
I wish Susan all the very best on her walk and hope that she enjoys all the gifts that the way from Le Puy has to offer. (don't miss out on the monk in Conques who plays 'House of the Rising Sun'(Eric Clapton) on the church organ in the evening after he tells you all about the cathedral !)
We all have our own experiences that are unique to all of us. I can only go by my personal experience. From what I could gather no one I met would have considered themselves a pilgrim. Through a few words here and there I could gather that the people I met were walking from point A to point B and going home. I do not think I saw one other person who ever had a credential. I never complained about the fact that no one spoke English. I can speak one other foreign language and that is Spanish. As for trying to speak French in a foreign, especially English speaking country is nearly impossible. But that problem goes both ways. Being an American and living in Mexico it does come in very handy. I never asked to to join a group and no one asked me to join them and that was just fine with me. I never said that the people I met were not helpful and kind. I did mention how gite owners were invaluable to me calling ahead and making the next night's reservation. I can tell you that at least 5 times owners drove me to get food in a nearby village for the next day.I object to the suggestion that retired people walking the Way of St.James are not 'pilgrims'! It is not the fact that one is walking to Santiago that makes one a pilgrim. As for being 'invited' to join a group , how about being friendly and asking if you may walk with others? There was a comment recently complaining that in France, no-one spoke English - try going to Australia, Britain or the U.S and speaking French!! There are some truly lovely people on Le Chemin all doing their pilgrimage their way and there is simply no right or wrong way. People need to know how many people will be present for a meal as, in France, the supermarket are often 18kms or more away! But I am sure that no-one would turn away a young girl if they turned up unannounced - unless they were full. My partner and I have walked from Constance (Germany) across Switzerland ( and most of the Swiss routes during Covid) to Bayonne (France) and went to Mass whenever possible . We will continue to walk (if our health allows) to Santiago. We will do it is stages and on the way will visit any church or chapel that is open, we'll enjoy the beautiful scenery and all our meetings with all whom we come into contact with on the way. The Way has enriched our lives and if one day we arrive in Santiago we will give thanks for all the above and more. (I am 70 and very much a pilgrim)
I wish Susan all the very best on her walk and hope that she enjoys all the gifts that the way from Le Puy has to offer. (don't miss out on the monk in Conques who plays 'House of the Rising Sun'(Eric Clapton) on the church organ in the evening after he tells you all about the cathedral !)
I think your advice about carrying food still stands. Increasingly, Gite owners recognize this and offer packed lunches for a fee but it is very good to carry a bag of trail mix or something for a pinch. There were days we left before the boulangerie opened in one town, found nothing on the way and arrived after itt had closed in our destination. We were pretty hungry by dinner. I believe Miam Miam also tells you were you can get drinking water & find a toilet which is pretty invaluable.We all have our own experiences that are unique to all of us. I can only go by my personal experience. From what I could gather no one I met would have considered themselves a pilgrim. Through a few words here and there I could gather that the people I met were walking from point A to point B and going home. I do not think I saw one other person who ever had a credential. I never complained about the fact that no one spoke English. I can speak one other foreign language and that is Spanish. As for trying to speak French in a foreign, especially English speaking country is nearly impossible. But that problem goes both ways. Being an American and living in Mexico it does come in very handy. I never asked to to join a group and no one asked me to join them and that was just fine with me. I never said that the people I met were not helpful and kind. I did mention how gite owners were invaluable to me calling ahead and making the next night's reservation. I can tell you that at least 5 times owners drove me to get food in a nearby village for the next day.
I am glad that the way has enriched your life like it has virtually everyone else here on this forum. As I said I loved this route and really loved the food.
People ask advice here and we all give it based hopefully not on prejudice or preconceived ideas. I was just relaying information that I felt would be valuable for someone to learn from my experience, nothing more and nothing less. We should all try to do that with what people write on the forum. An opinion is something you can agree or disagree with. Your experience is yours and mine is mine. Please do not denigrate my experience and advice. It comes from a place of trying to help a fellow pilgrim, and as I said it is nothing more or less than that. Buen Camino
The biggest mistake I made was not buying Miam Dodo. There were some mornings that the owners of the gites offered us a lunch of leftovers from the night before, with some fruit and a few other little goodies. Usually the charge for what was offered was a bargain. Once or twice it was offered for free. You never know when a cafe or bakery or market in the small villages would be open.I think your advice about carrying food still stands. Increasingly, Gite owners recognize this and offer packed lunches for a fee but it is very good to carry a bag of trail mix or something for a pinch. There were days we left before the boulangerie opened in one town, found nothing on the way and arrived after itt had closed in our destination. We were pretty hungry by dinner. I believe Miam Miam also tells you were you can get drinking water & find a toilet which is pretty invaluable.
Eric Burdon and the Animals!!!!'House of the Rising Sun'(Eric Clapton)
I walked with another woman this June from Le Puy to Cahors (and we met up with 2 American guys half way through) and never felt unsafe at all. I would have been fine walking on my own. Most of the other hikers we met were older French or Germans but it was a great group. Very friendly.Greetings!
I'd like to walk Le Puy to Cahors in mid September/early October 2022 and wonder if I am likely to meet up with other pilgrims/hikers? I'm hoping to at least have others in line of sight in the more remote areas. Any thoughts on this or safety in general on that route?
Also wondering if anyone can recommend lodgings in Le Puy where I might meet up with a good sized group of people departing--as I've experienced in SJPP, for instance.
All suggestions/thoughts welcome, and thank you!
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