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Hi Rebekah,Laurie, this day of hiking would be like a walk in the park for you. Except for a long section of badly paved two-lane road that you would not like at all.
I left Peñalba at about 7:30 a.m., and dragged my carcass into Medulas just as the sun went down... that was April, when the sun goes down about 7:30 p.m. or so. I had a hard time finding someplace open for dinner, ended up eating all the leftover roasted red and green peppers in the only open bar in town and drinking about seven cañas!.. (it may have been Sunday). So let´s say 12 hours hiking. I did stop a few times, btw. And DO NOT drink the water from unmarked fountains up there!
I did this walk in 2010, a very solitary walk all the way from Roncesvalles to Santiago. I left the Camino Frances in El Acebo and picked up the Camino Invierno in Las Medulas -- it became a real journey of discovery!
I would respectfully wonder at what time the light should come on. Maybe it is later than some would wish, and maybe there would be breakfast at a 'reasonable hour', which might be too late for early starters. Some albergues have wake up calls etc and breakfast rather than encouraging early leaving, especially as mornings get darker. Maybe this is what is happening here.With stiff competition all the more reason to provide at least "light" whilst dressing in the morning..
I stay at Meson el Acebo out of loyalty. They were there for pilgrims before the new places cherry-picked the tired pilgrims at the entrance to the town. Lunch crowds are down noticeably, and dinner is a bit of an empty restaurant. I don't give a lot of support to pilgrims who demand service, but I am willing to admit that there is a level that must be considered a minimum. There has always been desayuno when I was there (a bit over a year ago), so if competitive factors have forced that to end, the end may be in sight for this Camino institution.The mesón is owned by a family whose roots in El Acebo go way way back. Anyone who walked in the early 2000s will remember that this was the only place in town at that time. The father died about a year ago. The daughter has taken over and she is spread pretty thin with her family and her work.
Is this the place where you have to take a left while going thru town and it looks out on the backside ?Just spent the night there last night. This is the first town you get to after the VERY steep descent about 17K out of Rabanal. Not a long distance travelled but all that "down" takes it out of you. If you want to treat yourself try this wonderful inn. 45€ for a doble includes breakfast but for an additional 10€ per person you can have a fabulous vegetarian dinner. Incredible fresh salad with pears and apples followed by a rice dish that was delicious. Rooms are perfect; new modern bathrooms, beautiful views of the mountains. The proprietor and his wife are charming. They have a Facebook page at "La Trucha del Arco Iris".
Is this the place where you have to take a left while going thru town and it looks out on the backside ?
A gal who I ran into often on my Frances stayed there...I went to grab her for a drink and the host was an angel!
He was making a vegitarian dinner, and I believe was exclusive "veggie" all of the time. He was so kind, I was not staying there and he offered for me to stay. I stayed at the parochial place, loved every minute of it and of course ate there...but his hospitality was so sweet.
One of my favorite characters of the Camino was is dog!!!!
A big hairy critter with a HUGE over bite! Loved that fella!
Yes, and they are wonderful meals, we've stayed with Jaime twice, lovely man..... Jaime, serves only veggie dinners....
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