Hello everyone,
My best friend and I are in moderate shape and have 21 days to walk the Camino for the first time ever! We are trying to choose a starting point and are debating between what's more important to the 'pilgrim' experience: covering the most miles vs. having more leisure time to absorb the local culture? We are approaching this as a spiritual journey and are hoping to have time for prayer, Mass, staying at convents, etc. We would appreciate your opinion on the following options:
#1 Start in Burgos, end in Santiago in 21 days- walk between 20-30 km a day. Pros: We cover the most distance between us and Santiago. Cons: No days for rest, easy to fall behind.
Route #2: Start in Sahagun and continue to Finisterre. Pros: More leisurely pace, get to Finisterre. Cons: Only 16 days to reach Santiago.
Thoughts? Other route suggestions? Thank you so much!!!
My thoughts?...........................................................................I would never miss Burgos and the beauty of the trail and countryside as you leave there. Some of the most iconic stretches of the Camino can be seen from there, along with the classic approach to Hornillos that is so often captured in pictures. And then there is David and his little gypsy camp as you climb up the hill overlooking Astorga. He sells teas, cakes, and what have you. I have some pictures in the media section under
Camino Frances that show some of what you will see. Burgos alone is worth a trip to Spain, Camino or on Camino. To me, it is the most beautiful city along the route, and when I say that, I mean the old town surrounding the cathedral. For me, I am glad I went on to Finisterre, but once my love and I had reached Santiago, I had pretty much tired of walking. The celebration for me was to reach that destination and participate in the noon pilgrims mass. After that, the wind was gone from my sails. The rest of the way proved to be drudgery, and the weather was misty and cold. Summer might be different.
If you are in good shape, and have already tested your pack and shoes for comfort, you can easily rise and be out the door by 6:30 or so and make your way to an albergue 20 or 30 kilometers away by a little after noon. The rest of the day is yours to enjoy. That is what I loved. Walking 6 hours, then some food and beer and conversation with others in the afternoon. Only if you are not used to walking and staying on your feet for 6 hours or more will the route be hard, leaving you no desire to explore once you get to where you are going. My love and partner is much better a trekker than I, and she could move with 14 kilos on her slim frame 30 kilometers a day, and then have the energy to walk about town after we got to an albergue. I don't recommend that pace and weight, but it can be done by those that are in moderate shape.
I would recommend starting at Burgos. Since it will be summer, take a water bladder to drink while on the move. Rise early and out the door by no later than 7, and yes, I said 7am, though others will be leaving as early as 430. Don't let that fool you! Those are the people that you will be passing along the way or that are camped out at coffee shops along the route. Enjoy your sleep and then move out. Walk your distance until you have had enough, take a side tour if you like, then get back on track and make your way to your albergue. It is a good thing to have John
Brierly's book with you to read ahead so you know what is coming up, including the history, the steepness of the hills, and the distance between towns. I found his book invaluable and accurate enough by way of the maps.