Let's see, Bilbao deserves a day to visit. From there you have a number of options as you leave the city. You can walk along the river bank through the industrial area, following the metro line to Portugalete. Not pretty but shorter. And you will take the funky moving bridge.
En route from Castro Uriales to Laredo you will pass through the town of Hazas/Liendo. The hospitaleros at the saturino albergue can show you a most beautiful way, off Camino, to get to Laredo. It was a highlight on my Norte.
Leaving Santona you can climb a nasty hill to get to Noja or take the road to go around it. The hill is simply dangerous. Steep sand, nothing to stop you from falling backwards to your death. But the views are good . In Noja avoid the muni at all cost and try to get the room set aside for pilgrims at the Casona azul on the main plaza. Two single beds, private batroom with tub. If another pilgrim shows up you'll have to share, but still sounds like luxury to me. And the family that owns and runs it is lovely.
San Miguel de Meruelo is in the middle of nowhere but a lovely modern albergue in a restored house. Many are fans of Guemes. I suppose it's a must do once to know what others are speaking of but too much of an industrial size albergue with too much "spirituality schpeel" being waved around for me.
Out of Guemes you can go alomg the coast which is a bit longer. It's fine, nothing extraordinary, so next time I am going the short way. Albergue in Santander is a bit of a disaster: too many beds per square meter and a lack of loos and showers. Santa Cruz de la Bezana is a much better option in my opinon, also Boo de Pielagos by the train stop where you have to take the train for 1 stop to avoid a 9km detour. Piedad has fully made up beds with duvet, real towels and a real bathroom.
Santillana del mar is a must. Great old home serves as an albergue at the back in El solar de hidlagos as you turn onto the pedestrian area. Also lovely resataurant there is Casa de los nobles. Superbe quality, refined food at pilgrim prices.
In Comillas visit the university if you are into history and architecture. Not often mentioned in guide books who focus on the Gaudi builings. In San Vicente enjoy a nice menu del dias at the restaurant with blue and white tile and do not miss the church apin the fortified section (national classified monument, every floor board is an actual tomb and proportions are like nowhere else) but avoid the muni albergue: filthy as can be and a guard instead of an hospitalero.
In Llanes, try the delicious carbayon pastry and enjoy a menu del dia at the Covadonga where there's a line up. Also walk alomg the coast where so many movie scenec's have been shot. The albergue at the train station also gives you clean sheets and blankets.
On this route, opt for vermud solera (aged in the individual bars) or cidra. Do not miss the fabada asturiana, a hearty stew made with white beans, chorizo. The grilled sardines are a must as are the anchovies. Santona is the heart odpf the anchovy industry.
Norte: there is a new albergue in Oviedo, at no 8 Covadonga. At last! As you leave Oviedo do so via the Naranco sites. Take bus no. 10 in front of the tourist kiosk to get there or hike up. After visiting, with the parking lot to your back, take a left on the road and walk into Ucles where there's a small bar. The albergue ispn Esclampero is just fine, don't let the reviews put you off.
The albergue in San Juan de Villapanada is lovely. Fresh flowers on the dining room table. Laundry by machine but drying outside. Open fridge for you to grab drinks on your honor, but make sure you do pay. Hospitalero comes in after work and can book you a bed at the Bodayena albergue which is quire famous.
In Cornellana, quite a sad little town, the monastery is being restored but the albergue to the left of it is open.
As you walk towards Tineo, in the hanlet of La Milariega, is the most exciting thing ever: a proper loo, with sink, tp, mirror, imstalled by the farmer whose land it sits on. It's next to a renovated horreo converted into a coffee, rest area, shelter for pilgrims. Sra Raquel is an angel for building this.
Tineo: you can stay at the muni which is fine, and mang'aged by retired local miners who have walked the Caminos back and forth, or get a bed in the albergue section of the super fancy hotel in the center of town. Modern accomodations, a bit of Camino luxury.
Detour to the Obona monastery is said to be worth it; I passed the detour. I did not stay in Campielo but walked to Borres where the albergue is simlle but fine and the food at the local bar plentiful.
If wheather allows it, the Hosptiales route is a must, but only if there is no risk of clouds on the horizon. The minute they come in it gets really cold and scary up there. Bring enough water. The muni in Berducedo is fine. If you okan on eating at the local restaurant do so before the crowd comes is or they get overwhelmed and you will wait for a long time.
The juvenil albergue in Castro is a wonderful stop with a superb home made dinner. Do visit the local museum for a tour of the Riman ruins at 4pm - well worth it.
Hospitalera in Casrto verde is everything but. Don't bother arriving early, she will kick you out. But the church in the village jist before it is worth the guided visit, including to see old murals and a statue of St-Joseph dressed as a pilgrim food in town is good at the bakery for breakfast, and the restaurant on the right ha d side on the plaza. The grocey store is a gem managed by the same family for 100"years plus if I recall properly. Also visit the castro with its remaining tower.
Albergue, private, in San Roman de retorta is worth a stay for the quality of its dinner and the "on your honour" system of helping yourself and pay later.
As Seixas has a gorgeous albergue, restored farm house. Local restaurant good for dinner but do not teust the. To open at 8am for breakfast. Buy food from vending machines, local truck or take away the evening before at the restaurant. As you leave As Seixas take a minute to chat with Mapi who paints rainbows on mojones and invites you in her little "studio".
Hope this gives you a few ideas. Have a lovely walk.
