Camino from Mondoñedo to Abadín

[peregrina2000]

At the albergue in Lourenza the hospitalera really gave us a LOT of hype about not taking the new camino oficial, but to stay on the old camino oficial (which is now called "complementario"). The old one goes through some little towns while the new one is all up through the monte.

What have recent pilgrims done? There is a 6 km difference (the new one is 11, the old one 17), which is not trivial. Seems to me that the new one would have to be a LOT harder to justify walking 6 more km on the old one. Thanks!

 

[jsalt]

What have recent pilgrims done?

Hi Laurie, there was only one camino when I walked from Mondoñedo to Abadín last year (November). If there was an alternative route I never saw it. From Mondoñedo I walked via Barbeitas, Maaríz, Paadín, San Vicenzo, Lousada and Gontán (stayed in the albergue there). It was a nice walk even in the rain!
Jill

 

[LTfit]

Hi Laurie,
Also did the 'Complementario'. Had been wondering why it was named that way but then again we stayed in the Refugio in Gonzón (then in the Xunta Albergue in Gonzón) and no one even came to stamp our credentials.
Greetings from Albergue San Roque in Corcubión where I am alone with two hospitaleras - no one else has showed up!

 

[mspath]

...
Greetings from Albergue San Roque in Corcubión where I am alone with two hospitaleras - no one else has showed up!

Lucky you to be at such a special spot!

That simple, welcoming albergue at San Roque is a favorite. From their dorm window when you see the lighthouse beacon at Finisterre shining at night, it is magic!

Since home is in Champagne facing a vineyard, at the end of each camino when at last I reached that lighthouse I silently gave thanks and treated myself to a flute of true French champagne, toasting all who helped make my journey possible. Watching the sea I slowly sipped savoring the moment; when that glass was empty it was time to turn towards home...Perhaps you would enjoy continuing this tradition.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Laurie, there was only one camino when I walked from Mondoñedo to Abadín last year (November). If there was an alternative route I never saw it. From Mondoñedo I walked via Barbeitas, Maaríz, Paadín, San Vicenzo, Lousada and Gontán (stayed in the albergue there). It was a nice walk even in the rain!
Jill

They tell me this route has been official for the last two years but that people keep going on the one that you did. I don't understand what's going on!

 

[LTfit]

Lucky you to be at such a special spot!

That simple, welcoming albergue at San Roque is a favorite. From their dorm window when you see the lighthouse beacon at Finisterre shining at night, it is magic!

Since home is in Champagne facing a vineyard, at the end of each camino when at last I reached that lighthouse I silently gave thanks and treated myself to a flute of true French champagne, toasting all who helped make my journey possible. Watching the sea I slowly sipped savoring the moment; when that glass was empty it was time to turn towards home...Perhaps you would enjoy continuing this tradition.

@mspath what a lovely tradition!
Giving thanks is very healing. I often thank my legs and feet for carrying me this far, especially after a long stage.

The last time I was here in 2015 the hospitalera took us all to the fountain a bit further on the Camino where, on a clear night, you can see the lighthouse. She had us all make a wish. I think that I just might do that tonight.

 

[mspath]

Great idea! If you see a shooting star please make a wish for me too!

 

[poogeyejr]

Peregrina2000,

Before you heard the lecture from the hospitalera in Lourenza which direction were you going to go?
Which way will you go now?

Kathy

 

[jsalt]

They tell me this route has been official for the last two years but that people keep going on the one that you did.

So where exactly does the route split?

 

[peregrina2000]

Right in the cathedral square in Mondoñedo.

 

[jsalt]

Right in the cathedral square in Mondoñedo.

Hmm, I had a second breakfast at a café in the cathedral square, several other peregrinos there, and then set off looking for the yellow arrows across the square. As far as I remember we all took the “old” route, as that was the only one visible.

 

[intrepidtraveler]

Hi Laurie -

I did this route just last week. Apparently I took the "official" Camino which was a very long uphill - not overwhelmingly steep. One of those uphills that you swear can't go on much longer and there, right before your eyes, is more uphill. To make things really interesting the day I did it turned windy and foggy and I basically walked up into a cloud (picture attached ). Apparently I missed the indication of the route split in town and followed the editorial Buen Camino app map which took me over the mountain. Even when visibility is poor the trail is well-marked and basically a single lane dirt road so easy to follow.

You seem to be able to regularly crank out 30+km days so I suspect for you going over the mountain will not be a big deal.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, I made three false starts trying to find the official camino. Two from cathedral, one from albergue. Finally I saw what I though could be the official route, but after about five minutes I saw I was on the complementario. By then I had been searching for about 40 minutes so I just kept going.

The 17 km are pretty, undulating countryside, a few hamlets, nice views. But virtually all on asphalt. I haven't met anyone who came on the official route. Intrepidtraveler, I'd love to know where it starts in Oviedo, but you probably don't remember.

One thing is virtually certain--the official route cannot be as bad as the way it was painted to me. The hospitalera said it was peligrosa, with mucha maleza, and she made it sound like the ascents and descents were dangerously steep. 12 km with no hamlets is really not such a big deal. Only one of the hamlets on the 18 km route has people anyway.

Hopefully someone will be luckier than I and will find the route. If you do, walking directions to the start would be really helpful!

 

[intrepidtraveler]

As for how to find the over the mountain route...I found my way there by using the map on the editorial Buen Camino app.

All I remember is that there was a park across from a church. When I was standing facing the church, with the park behind me, the road for the mountain route was off on the right side, basically on the edge of a slope. There was no other road choice further to the right. I never questioned whether I was on the correct route because the mountain route was marked with the official Galicia concrete pillars with the arrow and the distance to Santiago. This marking continued the whole way over the mountain.

 

[peregrina2000]

It seems a mojon or two may be missing at the town exit. The albergue owner at O Xistral told me that a few weeks ago there had been a guide writer in his albergue who did both routes and says the official route,aside from being 6 km shorter, is prettier in his opinion. He says it has all the ascent at the beginning, followed by kms along a ridge with great views, and then a descent. I think all the dire warnings are total fabrications, but I can't figure out who has an interest in keeping the old route, since there are no services and hardly any people in any of the pueblos.

 

[wisepilgrim]

One reason to go the old way would be to stay at the albergue that is a few kilometers outside of Mondoñedo in Maariz. It is a small house run by an artist. Chickens. Garden. Mountain vibe. Something different.

Contact information here. https://bisontemaariz.blogspot.com.es/

 

[nickymd1]

I walked this leg and on to Vilalba about 3 weeks ago.

Not a single peson of the people I spoke to at our coffee stop in Abadin, or at the Albergue that evening managed to find the 'camino real' and travel the shorter of the routes. The arrows/directions leading from the cathedral were misleading, and even though we followed the map at the cathedral, we still managed to miss taking the 'right way'. I'd say at least 20 of us tried and failed to find it (and we were all peeved about it because it made the etappe even longer than we'd been planning on! )

 

[peregrina2000]

I walked this leg and on to Vilalba about 3 weeks ago.

Not a single peson of the people I spoke to at our coffee stop in Abadin, or at the Albergue that evening managed to find the 'camino real' and travel the shorter of the routes. The arrows/directions leading from the cathedral were misleading, and even though we followed the map at the cathedral, we still managed to miss taking the 'right way'. I'd say at least 20 of us tried and failed to find it (and we were all peeved about it because it made the etappe even longer than we'd been planning on! )

Glad to see that I'm not the only one incapable of finding this route. But I think that the only people who have found it are those who have a GPS to get out of town. Once you are actually on the route, I am sure there's no problem at all with finding your way. Like you, I followed the signs from the cathedral, but after three tries just took the route along the road.

But as an aside, nickymd1, if you stayed in O Xistral in Abadín, surely all that irritation just melted away. I have heard the albergue is doing well, and I really hope that's the case because it is a terrific place.

 

[nickymd1]

But as an aside, nickymd1, if you stayed in O Xistral in Abadín, surely all that irritation just melted away. I have heard the albergue is doing well, and I really hope that's the case because it is a terrific place.

Unfortnunately we walked a long day from Mondonedo to Vilalba that day, so there was a fair bit of irritation on arrival No one wanted to walk an extra 6km!