LIVE from the Camino 1 week Pamplona to Haro (Frances/Vasco)

[WestKirsty]

Hello! Ive been posting some questions/comments in other threads about a possible winter Camino and I decided to go ahead with it and had my first day walking today. I said I'd post updates so here is my first!

I should note that I live in Bilbao so for me it's quite simple to get to several of the Camino routes. And should things change due to Covid travel restrictions etc. I can get home quickly without the need for tests etc.

Today I walked from Pamplona to Puente de la Reina and it was a great walk! No rain (!) just clouds and perfect weather for walking. I only saw one other pilgrim walking today so it was very quiet! As expected, nothing was open in the smaller villages but I packed a fair bit of food and stocked up on cookies in Pamplona. "The Cookie Shop" in the old town in Pamplona is awesome and I recommend it to everyone who goes there!

I'm in an Albergue now and it's also very quiet! Ive been on my own until just now and one man from Korea has just joined me. There are 12 beds in the room but I've been told there will only put a max of 4 in here. So far, it's just the 2 of us in a sizable Albergue (Padres de Reparadores).

The place is very clean with hand sanitizer and disinfectant spray all over the place. Ive been nervous about staying in an Albergue because of increasing Covid cases but they've obviously put thought into keeping us distanced and things as clean as possible so I'm feeling comfortable with my decision thus far!

 

[VNwalking]

Thanks, @WestKirsty, interesting to know how it's going for you. Walk well, and buen camino!

 

[nycwalking]

Please keep posting.

Buen camino.

 

[Dave]

The place is very clean with hand sanitizer and disinfectant spray all over the place. Ive been nervous about staying in an Albergue because of increasing Covid cases but they've obviously put thought into keeping us distanced and things as clean as possible so I'm feeling comfortable with my decision thus far!

Looking forward to your posts, especially once you transition over to the Vasco. I was just thinking back on the view from Portillo de La Lobera the other day--I hope you have great weather when you get there. It'll be different coming up to it from the south. From the north, coming to it almost by surprise (at least, in my increasingly foggy memory of it) it was one of the most breath-taking moments I can remember.

Once you're on the Vasco, I imagine you'll have the albergues to yourself. I did, even in the peak of summer.

 

[jcat]

Yes, The Cookie Shop! I had a great coffee and cookie there in October.

 

[Judith Bush]

Hello! Ive been posting some questions/comments in other threads about a possible winter Camino and I decided to go ahead with it and had my first day walking today. I said I'd post updates so here is my first!

I should note that I live in Bilbao so for me it's quite simple to get to several of the Camino routes. And should things change due to Covid travel restrictions etc. I can get home quickly without the need for tests etc.

Today I walked from Pamplona to Puente de la Reina and it was a great walk! No rain (!) just clouds and perfect weather for walking. I only saw one other pilgrim walking today so it was very quiet! As expected, nothing was open in the smaller villages but I packed a fair bit of food and stocked up on cookies in Pamplona. "The Cookie Shop" in the old town in Pamplona is awesome and I recommend it to everyone who goes there!

I'm in an Albergue now and it's also very quiet! Ive been on my own until just now and one man from Korea has just joined me. There are 12 beds in the room but I've been told there will only put a max of 4 in here. So far, it's just the 2 of us in a sizable Albergue (Padres de Reparadores).

The place is very clean with hand sanitizer and disinfectant spray all over the place. Ive been nervous about staying in an Albergue because of increasing Covid cases but they've obviously put thought into keeping us distanced and things as clean as possible so I'm feeling comfortable with my decision thus far!

Good luck. I always wanted a winter Camino. Curious as to what type of footwear you are wearing.

 

[Csutak]

Hola WestKirsty!​

If you want, you can even walk home from Haro - I loved it, it's a nice town.

Wish you a wonderful Camino!

 

[WestKirsty]

Looking forward to your posts, especially once you transition over to the Vasco. I was just thinking back on the view from Portillo de La Lobera the other day--I hope you have great weather when you get there. It'll be different coming up to it from the south. From the north, coming to it almost by surprise (at least, in my increasingly foggy memory of it) it was one of the most breath-taking moments I can remember.

Once you're on the Vasco, I imagine you'll have the albergues to yourself. I did, even in the peak of summer.

I'll actually only be on the Vasco one day (Santo Domingo del Calzada to Haro). Sorry, I probably shouldn't have put it in the heading as it's a bit misleading! I hope to do the full Vasco one day soon though...maybe Easter!

 

[WestKirsty]

Good luck. I always wanted a winter Camino. Curious as to what type of footwear you are wearing.

I'm wearing my Merrill hiking shoes. They're well worn and looks like this will be our last adventure together

I have gators for bad weather but so far haven't needed them!

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 2: Puente de la Reina to Ayegui

Another fabulous day of walking! Beautiful sunshine all day with just a few clouds. A cool, crisp start to the day but I was walking in a t-shirt by mid-morning. In the end it was just 2 of us in the Albergue last night so a bit odd (there are 94 beds in there!). I've checked in to the municipal Albergue in Ayegui and so far, it's just me! A little odd as it is located in the local sports centre so a pretty big building all to myself. I had to go down to the second basement for a shower and with all the lights off, a little creepy. But who doesn't love an adventure! We'll see if anyone else arrives later.

As for the walk itself, my thoughts are again just how quiet it is on the trail. I left earlier than my roommate this morning and didn't see any other pilgrims the entire day. I tried to take a detour to see some historic rock formations but the trail was overgrown and given just how quiet things have been, felt it was a little unsafe to go off into the bush alone. So a longer day than planned (27km or so, according to my watch).

This is my first time on the Frances. As I usually walk in the summer, I've been avoiding it because of the crowds. I always read about how it's such a social experience and that's a big part of the Frances but what I never gave any thought to was just how stunning the scenery is! With the sun low in the sky, the colours and contours of the landscape are just stunning. While I'm missing out on the Frances comradery, I think I'm making up for it with the joy of a solitary walk through a beautiful countryside. I've said "wow" out loud several times already. I've walked the Norte/Primativo and San Salvador caminos before so wasn't expecting to be so in awe of this route!

 

[David Tallan]

This is my first time on the Frances. As I usually walk in the summer, I've been avoiding it because of the crowds.

It sounds like the crowds aren't such a big problem with your Camino. Maybe others will read this and not avoid an excellent route for fear of the bogeyman.

 

[ISABEL linares]

Hello! Ive been posting some questions/comments in other threads about a possible winter Camino and I decided to go ahead with it and had my first day walking today. I said I'd post updates so here is my first!

I should note that I live in Bilbao so for me it's quite simple to get to several of the Camino routes. And should things change due to Covid travel restrictions etc. I can get home quickly without the need for tests etc.

Today I walked from Pamplona to Puente de la Reina and it was a great walk! No rain (!) just clouds and perfect weather for walking. I only saw one other pilgrim walking today so it was very quiet! As expected, nothing was open in the smaller villages but I packed a fair bit of food and stocked up on cookies in Pamplona. "The Cookie Shop" in the old town in Pamplona is awesome and I recommend it to everyone who goes there!

I'm in an Albergue now and it's also very quiet! Ive been on my own until just now and one man from Korea has just joined me. There are 12 beds in the room but I've been told there will only put a max of 4 in here. So far, it's just the 2 of us in a sizable Albergue (Padres de Reparadores).

The place is very clean with hand sanitizer and disinfectant spray all over the place. Ive been nervous about staying in an Albergue because of increasing Covid cases but they've obviously put thought into keeping us distanced and things as clean as possible so I'm feeling comfortable with my decision thus far!

Buen Camino,gracias for the post.Happy memories of Pamplona.Enjoy the nice weather.

 

[Yoah]

I'm reading your account with interest as I'll be on the Frances myself in just a few short weeks and very curious what it's like this time of year.

Many thanks for taking the time to share your experience, and buen camino!

 

[Jackieduda]

How very nostalgic i become when reading this text! I do remember the cookie shop there. And the great chocolate shop! And the jamon butcher! Buen Camino Kirsty.

Hello! Ive been posting some questions/comments in other threads about a possible winter Camino and I decided to go ahead with it and had my first day walking today. I said I'd post updates so here is my first!

I should note that I live in Bilbao so for me it's quite simple to get to several of the Camino routes. And should things change due to Covid travel restrictions etc. I can get home quickly without the need for tests etc.

Today I walked from Pamplona to Puente de la Reina and it was a great walk! No rain (!) just clouds and perfect weather for walking. I only saw one other pilgrim walking today so it was very quiet! As expected, nothing was open in the smaller villages but I packed a fair bit of food and stocked up on cookies in Pamplona. "The Cookie Shop" in the old town in Pamplona is awesome and I recommend it to everyone who goes there!

I'm in an Albergue now and it's also very quiet! Ive been on my own until just now and one man from Korea has just joined me. There are 12 beds in the room but I've been told there will only put a max of 4 in here. So far, it's just the 2 of us in a sizable Albergue (Padres de Reparadores).

The place is very clean with hand sanitizer and disinfectant spray all over the place. Ive been nervous about staying in an Albergue because of increasing Covid cases but they've obviously put thought into keeping us distanced and things as clean as possible so I'm feeling comfortable with my decision thus far!

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 3: Ayegui to Los Arcos

Interesting day today! I was alone in the municipal Albergue in Ayegui last night and it was a bit bizzare to be alone in such a big building. The Albergue is in the sports centre so listened to a rousing game of pádel until 9pm then heard the staff lock up the building and drive away. It was eerily quiet. I did get a solid night's rest then remembered I was alone so played loud music this morning while getting ready to walk. Why not!

It's been another beautiful sunny day here! Still can't believe my luck! I stopped at the Fuente de Iratxe for a breakfast of champions and took the obligatory pics of me drinking wine at 8 in the morning.

Then it was time to decide which route to take. I opted for the alternative route into the forest and loved it. The trail goes up and over the hill but at a gentle incline. Along the side of the hill, I could see the morning clouds blanketing the valley below. It was a wonderful start to the day.

For others planning the Frances soon, I would say that the alternative, forest route on this stretch is a great option! However, coming down the hill I imagine the trail would be a mucky, muddy mess so would avoid it in the rain and stick to the lower trail. I also had an odd encounter. At the top, there was a beautiful view out to the distant mountains. I stopped to take a pic and heard rustling behind me. I turned to see what appeared to be a naked person in the bush. No idea what they were doing there - didn't engage in conversation for obvious reasons - but suspect just heading nature's call ?! Unfortunately, it was a foreshadowing of my afternoon encounter.

The trail was empty again today, with the exception of that naked person and the next person I saw - also naked. I was walking a few kilometers away from Los Arcos and just admiring the countryside. The trail snaked round a bend and I heard a grunt and noises. To my right, just off the trail at the edge of a small wooded patch, was a man naked except for his toque, standing up and looking at me with a horrible grin on his face and masterbating. Needless to say, I walked away as quickly as possible.

A little farther on, a woman was walking towards me. I waited for her to catch up and warned her about the man. She was an older woman who lives in the area and didn't seem too surprised. There was a farm road near us so she was going to take a detour to avoid him but said she'd take a photo of she sees him and phone the Guardia Civil. She was lovely! We chatted for a while about the area and parted ways. Calmed my nerves a bit as well.

So a mixed day - beautiful scenery and sunshine but these 2 encounters. I think the fact that the trail is so quiet is making those 2 encounters a bit more difficult to get my head around. (Although, of course, the first might well have been innocent and just bad timing on our parts). It's not putting me off though. I'm looking forward to tomorrow's walk to Logroño!

I'm in a hotel just outside Los Arcos for the night. I booked it a week ago when I wasn't sure about Albergues and increasing Covid numbers. Had I known it would be so quiet everywhere I would have planned for a stay in an Albergue but realized too late to cancel without paying for it. So a night of relative luxury!!

 

[nycwalking]

Day 3: Ayegui to Los Arcos

Interesting day today! I was alone in the municipal Albergue in Ayegui last night and it was a bit bizzare to be alone in such a big building. The Albergue is in the sports centre so listened to a rousing game of pádel until 9pm then heard the staff lock up the building and drive away. It was eerily quiet. I did get a solid night's rest then remembered I was alone so played loud music this morning while getting ready to walk. Why not!

It's been another beautiful sunny day here! Still can't believe my luck! I stopped at the Fuente de Iratxe for a breakfast of champions and took the obligatory pics of me drinking wine at 8 in the morning.

Then it was time to decide which route to take. I opted for the alternative route into the forest and loved it. The trail goes up and over the hill but at a gentle incline. Along the side of the hill, I could see the morning clouds blanketing the valley below. It was a wonderful start to the day.

For others planning the Frances soon, I would say that the alternative, forest route on this stretch is a great option! However, coming down the hill I imagine the trail would be a mucky, muddy mess so would avoid it in the rain and stick to the lower trail. I also had an odd encounter. At the top, there was a beautiful view out to the distant mountains. I stopped to take a pic and heard rustling behind me. I turned to see what appeared to be a naked person in the bush. No idea what they were doing there - didn't engage in conversation for obvious reasons - but suspect just heading nature's call ?! Unfortunately, it was a foreshadowing of my afternoon encounter.

The trail was empty again today, with the exception of that naked person and the next person I saw - also naked. I was walking a few kilometers away from Los Arcos and just admiring the countryside. The trail snaked round a bend and I heard a grunt and noises. To my right, just off the trail at the edge of a small wooded patch, was a man naked except for his toque, standing up and looking at me with a horrible grin on his face and masterbating. Needless to say, I walked away as quickly as possible.

A little farther on, a woman was walking towards me. I waited for her to catch up and warned her about the man. She was an older woman who lives in the area and didn't seem too surprised. There was a farm road near us so she was going to take a detour to avoid him but said she'd take a photo of she sees him and phone the Guardia Civil. She was lovely! We chatted for a while about the area and parted ways. Calmed my nerves a bit as well.

So a mixed day - beautiful scenery and sunshine but these 2 encounters. I think the fact that the trail is so quiet is making those 2 encounters a bit more difficult to get my head around. (Although, of course, the first might well have been innocent and just bad timing on our parts). It's not putting me off though. I'm looking forward to tomorrow's walk to Logroño!

I'm in a hotel just outside Los Arcos for the night. I booked it a week ago when I wasn't sure about Albergues and increasing Covid numbers. Had I known it would be so quiet everywhere I would have planned for a stay in an Albergue but realized too late to cancel without paying for it. So a night of relative luxury!!

Love the posts.

Take care out there.

Buen camino.

 

[RebecaAtlast]

Hello! Ive been posting some questions/comments in other threads about a possible winter Camino and I decided to go ahead with it and had my first day walking today. I said I'd post updates so here is my first!

I should note that I live in Bilbao so for me it's quite simple to get to several of the Camino routes. And should things change due to Covid travel restrictions etc. I can get home quickly without the need for tests etc.

Today I walked from Pamplona to Puente de la Reina and it was a great walk! No rain (!) just clouds and perfect weather for walking. I only saw one other pilgrim walking today so it was very quiet! As expected, nothing was open in the smaller villages but I packed a fair bit of food and stocked up on cookies in Pamplona. "The Cookie Shop" in the old town in Pamplona is awesome and I recommend it to everyone who goes there!

I'm in an Albergue now and it's also very quiet! Ive been on my own until just now and one man from Korea has just joined me. There are 12 beds in the room but I've been told there will only put a max of 4 in here. So far, it's just the 2 of us in a sizable Albergue (Padres de Reparadores).

The place is very clean with hand sanitizer and disinfectant spray all over the place. Ive been nervous about staying in an Albergue because of increasing Covid cases but they've obviously put thought into keeping us distanced and things as clean as possible so I'm feeling comfortable with my decision thus far!

congratulations, sounds great, following your footsteps in May, hope to fly into Bilboa - trying to pin down arrangments and just wondering whats the distance from Bilboa to Pamplona and best way to travel. great to hear that weather is good for you. enjoy

 

[WestKirsty]

congratulations, sounds great, following your footsteps in May, hope to fly into Bilboa - trying to pin down arrangments and just wondering whats the distance from Bilboa to Pamplona and best way to travel. great to hear that weather is good for you. enjoy

Hi! I've always travelled by bus between Bilbao and Pamplona. It's a 2 hour bus ride, and costs about 15 euros. The bus company is called La Union and you can by tickets in advance on their website.

Buen Camino! (and do check out the Cookie Shop in Pamplona )

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 4: Los Arcos/Torres del Río to Logroño

I've been posting in another thread on the forum about part of my day so apologies for the duplication. But as I said I'd post updates here, want to keep that up!

In my day 3 update, I mentioned an encounter with a fully naked, masturbating man in the countryside approaching Los Arcos. I think I needed some time to process things as I didn't think much of it by the time I got to Los Arcos. The woman I spoke to as well didn't seem shocked or concerned so I think I was downplaying it in my mind. I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about the day and how I felt. It really me disturbed to think a man was just off the trail, watching me and prepared his little show - for a lack of a better way to say it. I regretted not calling the Guardia Civil myself right away. It was my responsibility and as the person who saw him, could provide a description etc.

So I started my day at the Guardia Civil office in Los Arcos. 2 officers met me there and I explained what happened. They explained that as he didn't touch me, it wasn't a crime but for exposing himself etc, there is an administrative fine that can be issued. That, and also the benefit of having an incident reported to build up a case against someone if needed and to know about the problem. They asked if I'd head back to their station to look at photos and see if I could identify the man and to file a formal report.

So off we went back to Estella. I spent a few hours with them (mostly waiting around and chatting) and did look through photos of about 20 men that are suspected of antisocial behaviour in the area. Unfortunately, I couldn't confidently confirm it was any of them. An officer typed up and filed a report and they drove me to Torres del Río. It was noon by the time we finished and there was no way I could walk to Logroño from Los Arcos before the sun started setting.

The officers were very kind and I felt much better after speaking with them. I actually felt a bit nervous about setting off alone into the countryside. It's usually such a source of joy for me. But I've downloaded the AlertApp and the officers reassured me that I can use 112 for incidents such as this. As I didn't feel physically in danger, I didn't think the situation warranted a call to an emergency line. As I said, I regret not phoning right away but no point losing sleep over it now. What's done is done.

The walk to Logroño was uneventful. It was sunny and warm today - I even got a little bit of a tan!! As I started off so late, I hurried the walk so as to get into Logroño before the supermarkets closed. As it's the 31st, shops close early and I wanted to ensure I've got plenty for tomorrow as well.

I'm in a hostel for 2 nights now. Want a rest day tomorrow and time to explore Logroño. As I type this, I can hear crowds outside. I'll be avoiding them and hopefully getting an early night.

This will definitely be a Camino and NYE to remember!

 

[ISABEL linares]

Kirsty,so sorry what has happened to you, it was good hat you went to the Guardia Civil is so absenting that humans been can do such a thing. Tonight is the las day of the year, so have a glass of cava, and Buen Camino.

 

[WestKirsty]

Days 5/6: Logroño to Nåjera

Took a rest day in Logroño yesterday. There was thick fog all day so the temperatures were low. Went from hiking in a t-shirt the day before to 2 layers of morino wool and a down jacket, toque and gloves. Felt like I didn't get to really see the place but the fog made for some nice photo ops. As others have posted about winter walking, layers are a must for anyone heading out on the trail soon!

Today's walk was ok, but nothing like the scenery of the first few days. The foggy, colder weather didn't help. There's a fair bit of construction a few kms before Navarrete as they're making new highway overpasses etc. Looks like they haven't painted yellow arrows yet but the way was pretty obvious.

I stopped in at the church in Navarrete and that was a surprise! There was no one there but the door was open and there was a stamp on the table just before you enter for peregrinos. You can also put in a euro coin to light the alter and I did not expect the massive gold artwork before me! It's not to everyone's taste but I did find it very impressive...17th century I believe.

I'm in an Albergue in Nájera tonight and again am alone. I did spot what I think was a couple of peregrinos ahead of me at one point today. We're so few and far between right now it's like spotting rare wildlife when you're out in the woods!

It was really great to be back on the trail today. The rest day was good but after the mess with the exhibitionist and my morning with the police, I was feeling quite low and not confident about continuing. A suggestion: if you do experience such an encounter and find yourself alone and awake in the middle of the night, avoid going online and reading about such incidents on the Camino. The middle-of-the-night mind has a way of telling you all sorts of stories about what's out there and what you should have done better etc.

One more day on the Frances before turning North onto the Vasco for one short stage. Now that I'm back walking, I never want to stop.

 

[ISABEL linares]

Days 5/6: Logroño to Nåjera

Took a rest day in Logroño yesterday. There was thick fog all day so the temperatures were low. Went from hiking in a t-shirt the day before to 2 layers of morino wool and a down jacket, toque and gloves. Felt like I didn't get to really see the place but the fog made for some nice photo ops. As others have posted about winter walking, layers are a must for anyone heading out on the trail soon!

Today's walk was ok, but nothing like the scenery of the first few days. The foggy, colder weather didn't help. There's a fair bit of construction a few kms before Navarrete as they're making new highway overpasses etc. Looks like they haven't painted yellow arrows yet but the way was pretty obvious.

I stopped in at the church in Navarrete and that was a surprise! There was no one there but the door was open and there was a stamp on the table just before you enter for peregrinos. You can also put in a euro coin to light the alter and I did not expect the massive gold artwork before me! It's not to everyone's taste but I did find it very impressive...17th century I believe.

I'm in an Albergue in Nájera tonight and again am alone. I did spot what I think was a couple of peregrinos ahead of me at one point today. We're so few and far between right now it's like spotting rare wildlife when you're out in the woods!

It was really great to be back on the trail today. The rest day was good but after the mess with the exhibitionist and my morning with the police, I was feeling quite low and not confident about continuing. A suggestion: if you do experience such an encounter and find yourself alone and awake in the middle of the night, avoid going online and reading about such incidents on the Camino. The middle-of-the-night mind has a way of telling you all sorts of stories about what's out there and what you should have done better etc.

One more day on the Frances before turning North onto the Vasco for one short stage. Now that I'm back walking, I never want to stop.

Great to see that you are recovering for your bad experience,nothing like stoping in a church an ligth a candel.Buen camino.

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 7: Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Had a cold night in the Albergue in Nájera. I had to put on my jacket in the middle of the night, and my toque, as I just couldn't sleep for the cold. It was 1 degree out when I started walking this morning but felt warmer moving so was happy to get going. Although, I am curious as to why you still need to be out of the Albergues so early in the winter? It makes perfect sense in the summer when peregrinos want to beat the heat, get a bed and then there's so much work for the hospitalarios. But now, when the sun doesn't rise until 8:45 or so, and it's just one person, it seems a bit cruel sending you out into the cold, dark morning. Anyway, I'm happy for the Albergues and all that the staff do for us. Just has surprised me the last few mornings to have to leave before sunrise.

The walk today was short and straightforward. But to my surprise, I met another peregrino! We walked together most of the morning and had lunch outside (it warmed up quickly) once we arrived into Santo Domingo.

I appreciated the short walk though as it meant there was time to look around the town and it's a great little place. The view from the church tower is stunning as the sun sets!

I'm in my final albergue of the journey and am alone inside again (the other peregrino I met is staying in a hotel). But the radiator is by my bed and it's nice and warm inside tonight

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

I packed a fair bit of food and stocked up on cookies in Pamplona. "The Cookie Shop" in the old town in Pamplona is awesome and I recommend it to everyone who goes there!

Yes, The Cookie Shop! I had a great coffee and cookie there in October.

Near the ayuntamiento and one side facing Pamplona's tourism office.

 

[J Willhaus]

In the winter we never made people leave until it was light out, when we were hospitaleros, but there is still work to do even with only a few pilgrims. Enjoy your last day on the camino!

 

[VNwalking]

Kirsty, I'm sorry this has happened to you - two sleazeballs in one day, no less. Yeugh.
Your resilience is inspiring!

It sounds like pilgrim numbers are really low, which is normally great - but sometimes company is nice. So I'm glad some turned up!
Looking forward to hearing about your walk to Haro!

 

[Oxford Alice]

Kirsty thanks so much for these posts. Like the others, I'm really sorry that you had such an upsetting experience. Question for you: are the Albergues providing blankets? I've walked only with a liner in the past, but I've heard that with Covid the blankets have been removed for safety reasons. So in April I'm thinking I need to bring a sleeping bag.

 

[WestKirsty]

Kirsty thanks so much for these posts. Like the others, I'm really sorry that you had such an upsetting experience. Question for you: are the Albergues providing blankets? I've walked only with a liner in the past, but I've heard that with Covid the blankets have been removed for safety reasons. So in April I'm thinking I need to bring a sleeping bag.

Some have had blankets while others haven't. 50/50. I've been using a super- lightweight sleeping bag that I bought off of Amazon for maybe 30 euros several years back, along with a thermo-light liner and I had just one cold night. That combo has been fine every other night this trip. I used that same sleeping bag for all my other caminos. It was an impulse buy but has done me well!

 

[WestKirsty]

Day 8: Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Haro

I was told I needed to leave the albergue by 8 this morning so headed out into the dark. but the Christmas lights were still on so it made for a nice start to the day! I found a bar to have some breakfast and wait for the sky to lighten before heading North.

I used the app 'Windy Maps' today as I knew I wouldn't likely see the arrows going in the opposite direction. It's also been useful this past week when I had my head down for a while and just wanted to confirm I was still on the Camino! This is my first Camino using the app but I use it a fair bit for day hikes as it's got the GR routes and other popular trails loaded on it. Simple map interface with the routes in the area and showing your location. I'm a fan.

The route was very straightforward, though, and almost entirely flat. It passed through 2 small towns but everything was closed. As expected, no other walkers and no facilities along the way today.

I'd definitely like to do the full Vasco soon! Seeing the mountains behind Haro is just so tempting!

The weather was cool to start the day but I was lucky and had clear skies almost the full route! About an hour outside Haro the winds picked up and I could see the dark clouds coming over the mountain range behind Haro. I got into Haro and my accommodation and now I can hear a storm raging outside as I type this. Can't quite believe my weather luck this week! I'd hate to be out walking in this storm.

So my week (or so) of the Camino has come to an end. It was a bit more "adventurous" than expected, but overall, a great experience and one I won't soon forget.

Some thoughts/notes for others heading out on the trail soon:

- the Frances was exceptionally quiet when I was walking. I had read about winter/Christmas Camino experiences that others have had on this forum in previous years and knew it'd be quiet. But I think being a Covid winter/Christmas meant even fewer walkers. Most days I saw no one ahead of me, and no one behind.

- I was nervous about the rise in the number of Covid cases and questioned if it was safe to continue with my planned trip. As you can tell, there was no issue once I started out. I had very, very minimal contact with any other humans and actually forgot about the pandemic most days! Of course, getting to and from the Camino is a different story and different for all of us. I'm very fortunate to live where I do.

- the winter albergue list on the forum was a great resource! I used it to plan my stages and accommodations and contacted the Albergues in advance just to be sure they were still open.

- being alone in an albergue has its perks! Cheap accommodation, no snoring, no line ups for the shower etc. But it could be a bit lonely at times. And as mentioned in my day 2 post, a little creepy in the large Albergues! When the hospitalarios lock up, you are alone in a large, quiet building. I noticed every click and creak of the building until I could fall asleep...

- as others have also written, there are far fewer bars etc. open on route than other times of year. I packed a number of power bars and instant soup packs with me and was glad I did. Sunday, in particular, was tricky as supermarkets are closed too.

So, that's my last update! If anyone has any specific questions, feel free to ask

Buen Camino!