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You can do both. The most common way is to walk one day along the coastal, to Vila do Conde, then cut inland...
I am planning to walk from Porto end of April and am confused as well with three different route choices, and various detours.Having walked the Camino Frances in 2017, the same group of us are planning to walk the Camino Portugues starting in Lisbon in third quarter 2019. From Porto, we are trying to decide whether to take the internal route, or alternatively walk the coastal route (Porto/Vila do Conde/Esposende/Viana do Castelo/Caminha) re-joining the internal route at Tui. I am sure both routes have their attractions but has anyone walked both and can advise which they preferred? I did see a YouTube video of a group walking from Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes past the cruz dos Franceses and that looked really scenic.
The Variante Espiritual was my favorite part of the trip - the Camino de Agua y Piedras leaving Armenteira is spectacular, mystical, wonderful, and the boat ride up the Rรญo Ulla the same.No one on this thread has mentioned the Senda Litoral, which I believe follows the coast almost exclusively. The Brierley guide says the Coastal route weaves back and forth between the actual coast and up higher away from the coast....so is everyone talking about the monotonous Senda or Coastal?
And what about the Spiritual Variant. Anyone have experience and comments on that?
Hola Camino Chris- Yes, as part of our CP pilgrimage, we walked the Variant that comes out of Pontevedra. You pass two monasteries, with options to stay in Armentiera. We enjoyed this Way that takes you to the estuary and along Rio Ulla to Pontecesures and Padrรณn....lots of spiritual energy in that area. Bom Caminho!No one on this thread has mentioned the Senda Litoral, which I believe follows the coast almost exclusively. The Brierley guide says the Coastal route weaves back and forth between the actual coast and up higher away from the coast....so is everyone talking about the supposedly "monotonous" Senda or the Coastal?
And what about the Spiritual Variant. Anyone have experience and comments on that?
Thanks so much for your input. I've been trying hard to decide where to turn off the coastal to meet the central and just as I thought I'd decided to do it at Caminha, I read your suggestion to cut over at Vila de Conde because there wasn't much interesting further north! Vila de Conde isn't very far north of Porto, and so most of your favorite was central. So, it sounds like you weren't that impressed with the further sites north of Vila de Conde? Like Viana do Castelo, Camina, Vila Nova de Cerveira, Valenca,, Vigo to Rendonela to Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis where I was planning to go and then cross over at Tui. I'd love to hear from a few others if they felt the same way about north of Vila de Conde as being kind of boring! Of course, we have the option of crossing over at various spots so I won't worry (and the weather will determine this best) but I also don't want to be bored either! Thanks again for your honest opinion!That would be my vote too. I've done the pair of them, and while the Coastal isn't the worst in the world, it can become a little monotonous. One of the nicer seaside stretches is the 30 km from Porto city centre to Vila do Conde; you get to pass through the pretty and picturesque fishing community of Angeiras and then Vila Cha, with its fascinating ceramic-tiled houses (you see these all over Portugal, but rarely in such variety and concentration). But once you've done that, the Coastal doesn't have very much more to offer. Cutting across to Sao Paolo de Rates from Vila do Conde, a 7-km walk, puts you on the Central, where a hundred kilometres of pleasant countryside, attractive villages and enjoyable woodlands await you until the two trails merge at Redondela.
I'm not sorry to have walked the Coastal, but I can't think of anything that would draw me back there again. I certainly expect to revisit the Central, which I found delightful even in mid-January when I was the only one out there.
Thanks so much for your views! It has really helped me figure out where I want to switch over!Not a problem; happy to help. Everything from Redondelaโa very agreeable townโonwards is common to the two routes, so I won't address that. But in general I concur with Andycohn above. There are occasional bright spots on the Coastal north of Vila do Conde: the towns of Esposende, Oia and Caminha were standouts. Those, though, are few and far between, and Andycohn's references to "little scenic variation" and "dull beach towns" did, I'm afraid, resonate strongly with me. A lot of the time I felt highly out of place weaving in and out among holidaymakers wearing swimsuits, eating ice cream, and buying inflatable water-wings and plastic knick-knacks at the beachfront shops. Too many of the night-stops were either excessively touristy and overpriced for my taste (Baiona) or grim and industrial (Vigo); too many of the days were spent either listening to, or dodging, vehicular traffic. It seemed to me as though I could have been plonked down along almost any random part of the Atlantic littoral from Calais to Faro and had much the same experience; only the waymarking (which, I concede, was excellent, if hardly required most of the time) gave me any indication that I was travelling a pilgrimage route.
The Central from Rates northwards was tranquil, rural, and restorative to my soul, even if, because of the inflexibility of my calendar, I was having to complete it a great deal quicker than I would have preferred.
I did the same route. Just finished. Wouldnโt change a thing!Highly recommend the coastal from Porto. We crossed the river at Caminaha and continued along to Oia and Baionne and found that route beautiful!
Yes I'm surprised none of the contributors have mentioned the way through Coimbra which was a major ecclesiastical centre. I've done and loved the central route but would consider the Coimbra option ahead of the beach walk !I am planning to walk from Porto end of April and am confused as well with three different route choices, and various detours.
And as you said โwithout expectation โ sometimes a scenic walk works as well....And while youยดre dodging pavement and boredom and "tourists," remember itยดs a pilgrimage. Step out into what is there with an open mind, without demands or expectations, and the Way rises up to meet you in amazing ways.
Otherwise, itยดs just a scenic walk.
Good luck with your decision @Camino Chris! Just pick one, and plan to do the other one in the future! You can't go wrong. If I had to choose between one or the other, I have a slight leaning towards the Central route. I did love all the history there and walking on those rough Roman roads!Lovely photo. I'm still debating...what to do, what to do. You loved the coastal, others say monotonous. I'll probably do a mixture, but coming off the Fisherman's Way, maybe I'll turn in to the central route a little sooner.
When people talk about walking the "coastal route" to Vila do Conde and then heading over to the central route, most of them are really taking the senda litoral for that first day. They want to walk along the river and the coast the first day, rather than head up north through the streets and suburbs, which is what both the real Coastal route and the Central route do.No one on this thread has mentioned the Senda Litoral, which I believe follows the coast almost exclusively. The Brierley guide says the Coastal route weaves back and forth between the actual coast and up higher away from the coast....so is everyone talking about the supposedly "monotonous" Senda or the Coastal?
Just go ! Fresh ocean wind along most part of the coast. Walk through the green part of Portugal and Spain. That means rain now and then.Here I am, four months later than the last post in this thread, thinking about my camino in June. I've changed my mind between various Caminos multiple times. My original plan was La Plata, but I can't go until June and I don't want to die in the heat. I finally decided the Portugues coastal route sounds nice and probably cooler in the summer time. But man, all the extremely different opinions in this thread make a decision difficult! I only have about three and a half weeks, so may just start in Porto, head to the coast and make it up as I go from there. I do like Roman roads and mountains, too...
Here I am, four months later than the last post in this thread, thinking about my camino in June. I've changed my mind between various Caminos multiple times. My original plan was La Plata, but I can't go until June and I don't want to die in the heat. I finally decided the Portugues coastal route sounds nice and probably cooler in the summer time. But man, all the extremely different opinions in this thread make a decision difficult! I only have about three and a half weeks, so may just start in Porto, head to the coast and make it up as I go from there. I do like Roman roads and mountains, too...
Sorry to take this off topic, but a suggestion for Jill:
Three and a half weeks gives you plenty of time for the Invierno, and then you could take a look at the Olvidado guide I just posted a link to, and pick a starting place further up the road into Ponferrada. The โofficialโ Olvidado doesnโt go into Ponferrada, but merges with the Frances in Villafranca del Bierzo, but many who walk the Olvidado take the last day and head to Ponferrada from Congosto. The Olvidado goes through little towns that are harder to get to, but Pola de Gordon is about 6 days from Ponferrada, Cistierna is a big-ish town (in fact, I think Maggie is going to get a bus into Cistierna when she finishes the Lana in Burgos), and Guardo is also big.
These routes should be just beautiful in June. Or the northern part of the Vdlp/Sanabres is unlikely to be really hot either.
Yes I did .nice coastal walk . Nice towns and villagesFollowing this thread with interest. I'm walking my first Camino in a few weeks (May) from Ferrol to Santiago. I'm also looking at walking from Porto in August or May of 2020. Looking through various websites, Facebook pages I have looked at the following route from Porto to Vigo:
Porto, Povoa de Varzim, Esposende, Viana do Castelo, Vila Praia de Ancora, A Guarda, Baiona, Vigo. Has any walked this route before?
Albertinho, Thank you for that. I will take that into consideration when I am making my final plans.Yes I did .nice coastal walk . Nice towns and villages
You forget Caminha . Although Caminha to Aguarda is about 3 kms , Caminha is very important because of crossing the river . If the ferry is sailng or not. If there will be a fisherman to set you over or you have to walk on to Vila Nova de Cerveira to cross the bridge -a 26 km detour.
Due to the tides it can be that the ferry does sail or not. In that case ask around if the ferry sails. (The Portuguese word for that ferry is o Transbordador)Albertinho, Thank you for that. I will take that into consideration when I am making my final plans.
Thank you very much Albertinho.Due to the tides it can be that the ferry does sail or not. In that case ask around if the ferry sails. (The Portuguese word for that ferry is o Transbordador)
To be sure , what I do when I arrive at Caminha is , as soon as I see the sign "camping and restaurant at the marina I follow these signs Very soon is a hotel. I go to the receptiondesk and ask if I the ferry sails. They kindly will help you and look at the computer to tell you. If the ferry sails walk on the last 3 kms to the ferry. Otherwise you have to walk back 3 kms to the marina to find the pescador.
If the ferry is not sailing, walk on to the marina ,camping and restaurant (about 200 metetrs away) and ask for the fisherman " everybody there will know him and call him for you. He will set you to the opposite bank of the river . We payed 5 โฌ per person I thought once we did it. It was a very nice short trip to Spain .
The walking alternative to Vila Nova de Cerveira does not attract me personally .
to Vila Nova is a great walk on a nice new path at the bank of the Minho river but once you crossed the international bridge and at the end you turn to the left to walk back the same 13 kms or so to A Guarda it is not a very nice walk along a road with lots of traffic.
What you could do but than your initial plan wil be disturbed is , walk on from Vila Nova de Cerveiro to Valenรงa do Minho on the same beautiful new Ecovia called path and there you hit the Central Caminho Portuguรชs. So you'll leave the Coastal caminho.
In Valenรงa you cross the river by the famous Eiffel bridge, built by George Eiffel who also built the Paris Eiffeltower. .at the end and a few steps you end up in Tui, next to Valenรงa a beautiful town. Many choises !
Bom caminho e passa bem !
I am planning on walking the camino in September this year - did you have to book your accommodation in advance or did you wing it? Any advice of prices / budget - i am looking to do cheapest as on serious budget. Walking for about 12 days. Porto to Santiago....... can't wait *so excited*Hola- Just back from walking the CP in September. Started in Porto and walked the coastal up through Caminha. Coming from the midwest US, found the coastal walk stunning, even through all the mist and fog. We then cut in along the river (you actually walk through a number of small towns) through Vila Nova de Cerveira (a lovely place to stay) to Valenca and Tui. After having walked the CF, I found this a nice change of pace with it's own "pilgrim vibe."Can't compare with the central route from Porto, but this Way did not disappoint! Bom Caminho!
elle
I made this crossing a couple of weeks ago. The ferry was not running that day, but a fisherman did take me across for five euros.Yes I did .nice coastal walk . Nice towns and villages
You forget Caminha . Although Caminha to Aguarda is about 3 kms , Caminha is very important because of crossing the river . If the ferry is sailng or not. If there will be a fisherman to set you over or you have to walk on to Vila Nova de Cerveira to cross the bridge -a 26 km detour.
That would be my vote too. I've done the pair of them, and while the Coastal isn't the worst in the world, it can become a little monotonous. One of the nicer seaside stretches is the 30 km from Porto city centre to Vila do Conde; you get to pass through the pretty and picturesque fishing community of Angeiras and then Vila Cha, with its fascinating ceramic-tiled houses (you see these all over Portugal, but rarely in such variety and concentration). But once you've done that, the Coastal doesn't have very much more to offer. Cutting across to Sao Pedro de Rates from Vila do Conde, an 11-km walk, puts you on the Central, where a hundred kilometres of pleasant countryside, attractive villages and enjoyable woodlands await you until the two trails merge at Redondela.
I'm not sorry to have walked the Coastal, but I can't think of anything that would draw me back there again. I certainly expect to revisit the Central, which I found delightful even in mid-January when I was the only one out there.
Hello!
I read you did the Camino in middle January.
How was your experience?.
I am doing this exact route at the end of May but I am starting from MathosinhosFollowing this thread with interest. I'm walking my first Camino in a few weeks (May) from Ferrol to Santiago. I'm also looking at walking from Porto in August or May of 2020. Looking through various websites, Facebook pages I have looked at the following route from Porto to Vigo:
Porto, Povoa de Varzim, Esposende, Viana do Castelo, Vila Praia de Ancora, A Guarda, Baiona, Vigo. Has any walked this route before?
I am planning to walk from Porto end of April and am confused as well with three different route choices, and various detours.
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