abzambroza
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Currently booked to start my first Camino Frances on 5th August 2016 starting from Pamplona.
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So one idea I’ve been playing with is to walk the Frances up to a certain point, say Leon, and then travel up to Ferrol and walk the Camino Ingles to Santiago.
Pilgrimage is an experience of an ongoing way, skipping parts of your planned Camino interrupts that experience imo. So, just start closer to your destination ;-)
In case you haven't got it, here's a list of all the caminos:
http://www.mundicamino.com/los-caminos/
Now, if someone could give me some advice about how to get from Biarritz to Logrono that would be great, but I think I'll ask that as a separate question (I know it involves taking buses via San Sebastian, but I think I will need more details about where they leave from as the booking sites are a bit nebulous on this...)
Now, if someone could give me some advice about how to get from Biarritz to Logrono that would be great, but I think I'll ask that as a separate question (I know it involves taking buses via San Sebastian, but I think I will need more details about where they leave from as the booking sites are a bit nebulous on this...)
The new bus station in San Sebastian is located next to the Renfe station. So you can catch either the train or the bus from San Sebastian to Logrono.
I've not been able to confirm Estellesa is leaving from San Sebastian bus station. The bus station is new and Estellesa might not yet have moved operations from the old outdoor bus exchange at Plaza Pio XII.
I am a bit of a purist and think everyone should walk the whole thing. Getting that out of the way, with limited time, I would start in St Jean and do the first 2 days. I think they are a great way to introduce the feeling of the Camino and is a good walk as long as the weather is cooperative. If it is going to be rainy or cloudy, then you could skip it as it is a long walk with nothing to see.. I would then look at Brierley's book and taxi, bus, what ever, over a few of the less attractive sections that are along highways and through industrial areas. Walking from just past Larrasona into Pamploma could easily be skipped to Cizur Menor, unless you want to see Pamploma. That would save 1 day. Some people skip the walk from Burgos to Fromista (2 days) because they don't want to walk the meseta, I personally like that area. The walk from Fromista to Carrion is along the highway, easily skipped. The walk into Leon and out of Leon to Virgen is through city streets mainly and easily skipped, a taxi or bus in to see Leon and bus or taxi out could save you time. The walk from Villa Franca to Vega de Valcarce is along a road and could be skipped, leaving you to do the the walk up O'Cebrreiro which is tough but good to do. From O'Cebreiro to Tricastella is a long down hill slog. From the next town, Sarria, you need to walk the whole thing for a Compestella certificate. If you are not worried about that, the walk around the airport from Arca/Pedrouzo until you get into Santiago is again through city streets and not interesting. So my suggestion is you can get part of the feeling of the whole Camino Fances by using transport to skip some parts on the way to reduce the usual 32 days to what you need. Remember that a days walking is only 20-30 km and is done in less than hour in a car or on a a bus. You could use transport to finish in 1 day what the walkers would take 2 or 3 days to complete. You could easily walk part of a day and skip part of one day and part of the next, if you think it is uninteresting.I know it's cherry picking but if you want to see the whole thing, this would do the trick. I've had friend walk it in 23 days because he was short of time but I think the long 8-9 hour days takes away from it. I like following a a 30-32 day schedule because you will be meeting many of the same people from day to day and will form friendships. People on the Camino are most interesting, and meeting and getting to know them is a big part of the journey. Remember, this is your journey and you have to look at what you want to get out of it. All the suggestions; starting closer to Santiago; jumping to a closer less used route; or skipping through parts are all valid depending on what you want to get out of it. Don't let anyone but your own thoughts and heart pursuate you. Keep an open mind and Buen Camino
I think that a purist would start from their own front door.
Tell me about it! It was one of the most challenging sections without a doubt, second only to crossing the Alto Matagrande after Ages/Atapuerca, which, with those rough rocks and lack of shade, I found a true walk of penance in the afternoon heat - I'm not religious but I thanked God when I reached that cross! Did you have that public service van going up and down the Hontanas track making sure people had enough water? That walk into Hontanas does seem to go on for ages, and then you have that really dangerous (though short!) descent to negotiate when you're on your last legs (one of the most dangerous ones on the Meseta, I'd say...). I sure was glad to arrive, but then decided after lunch to walk on to Castrojeriz for another 10km.... too much of a holiday camp atmosphere for me in HontanasI can tell you, I just walked Burgos to Hontanas today, and that 5 km to Hontanas sign is a lie.I swear it was really 10 km in the 35 degree heat . I was so happy to have my hands free umbrella with me to provide my own shade. I could have sold dozens today!
BTW, just noticed: Burgos to Hontanas is an impressive distance!!! 32km!! Well done to you for covering that in one day!I can tell you, I just walked Burgos to Hontanas today, and that 5 km to Hontanas sign is a lie.I swear it was really 10 km in the 35 degree heat . I was so happy to have my hands free umbrella with me to provide my own shade. I could have sold dozens today!
Tell me about it! It was one of the most challenging sections without a doubt, second only to crossing the Alto Matagrande after Ages/Atapuerca, which, with those rough rocks and lack of shade, I found a true walk of penance in the afternoon heat - I'm not religious but I thanked God when I reached that cross! Did you have that public service van going up and down the Hontanas track making sure people had enough water? That walk into Hontanas does seem to go on for ages, and then you have that really dangerous (though short!) descent to negotiate when you're on your last legs (one of the most dangerous ones on the Meseta, I'd say...). I sure was glad to arrive, but then decided after lunch to walk on to Castrojeriz for another 10km.... too much of a holiday camp atmosphere for me in Hontanas- wish I'd stopped in San Anton on the way, though, which is meant to be a truly special (though back to basics) experience... Next time
I thought I'd report back what I ended up doing having now actually been out on my cut down first Camino. First of all, thank you very much, Dancing Rain, for your recommendation. I had actually had a room booked for my first night, but as things rarely go to plan in my life these days I not only ended up flying out one day later than planned but also spending two extra days in Bilbao thanks to Vueling airline that had lost my luggage! But on a positive note, this gave me the opportunity to finally visit the Guggenheim museum, which I'd been wanting to do for years!
Thank you also to every single one of you who replied for their advice and recommendation. You were of course spot on, but sometimes you just have to learn the hard way...
So I finally reached Logrono 3 days later than planned and was very happy for a recommendation for a place to stay, and I loved it, for exactly the reason that you suggested, Dancing Rain, so thank you again!
So I did start in Logrono on the 8th August, and am frankly glad I did as I took a good few days just to get used to the extended walking carrying a far too heavy pack (more on that one later!) and I have no doubt the Pyrenees would have killed me right on the outset, particularly given my lack of real preparation. Now, having done the nearly 3 weeks of walking I feel a lot more confident tackling them, providing I keep up at least a bit of walking until my next time (and there will definitely be a next time - I'm already looking to plan it, plus a few shorter multi-day hiking trips more local to me).
My pack was far too heavy and I ended up sending back the equivalent of a third of it in weight, spread over 3 different parcels sent on different occasions during the first 10 days in. Whoever says go for 10% of your body weight is spot on, though I did meet some people carrying relatively heavier packs without too many problems, but they were much fitter than me and usually male... Truth is, you really don't need a lot! This time I took a 40lt Osprey Exos 38 pack (M/L size), and frankly, I've just bought a 25L pack which I believe will be sufficient for the summer trip I'm planning for doing the Leon to Santiago section, hopefully next year...
I was lucky to have very few problems with my feet, none shoe related, and my joints were fine, too, though I did use a knee brace prophylactically on a couple of occasions and am glad I did! This was only required until I reduced my pack weight to the 10% ratio, after which I had no more problems and passed the brace on to a fellow peregrino who needed it more than me (and was not prepared to reduce his 14kg pack weight significantly). I used the Bracoo brace, which I believe is excellent to have handy and to pass on to others (in the spirit of sharing) as it's cheap and fully adjustable.
So, what did I do about route selection, the topic of my original question?: well, I only had 23 days in total to start out with, which were cut short to 20 due to initial delays. In the end, I did have two rest days (3 if you count an extra day in Santiago), so I 'only' walked from Logrono to Leon in 17 days, just over 300km, then took a Blabla car to Santiago, where I spent a couple of days, and then travelled back. The only section I used public transport for before Leon was the journey into Burgos, and I'm grateful I did - I'm not a purist myself! Though next time, I'd probably try to find the alternative river route. My average walking day ended up being 17-18km, my longest day was 30km (after which I needed a rest day!), and in the last week, on the flat of the meseta, I merrily did several days of 25km without problems. I found my capacity for the day was closely related to how well I'd slept the night before (the main problems being, in order of disruption potential: 1) being too cold (I'm acutely sensitive to cold), 2) being too hot, 3) high noise levels (Sahagun during a fiesta!), 4) having an uncomfortable and/or smelly bed (honestly, some places...)).
Throughout my initial week or so, I was still planning on cutting out sections and travelling on by transport, but in fact I did get into the walking, I did meet some people regularly who I realised I would miss leaving behind, and frankly, I ended up really, really enjoying the Meseta, particularly the first half of it. The walk out of Castrojeriz over the Alto de Mostelares was one of the highlights of my camino (bearing in mind that I didn't get to do the Pyrenees nor Galicia), second only to the Montes de Oca, which I also loved! People who are cutting out this section to travel to Fromista are really missing out, I think!
I really, really enjoyed the hot weather, which gave me no trouble at all (though I do admit to withering slightly on the section from Hornillos to Hontanas at 34 degrees), and in truth really did not want to leave behind the blistering sunshine which we oh so rarely get in England where I live. In fact, a lesson for me was that I don't do well in low temperatures (as low as 3-6 degrees Celsius in various places on the morning I left Granon), which was when I really struggled - though granted, if travelling at other times of year I might have entirely different clothes and equipment and am likely to cope better.
But finally, I do agree it's above all a journey and the destination will still be there in years to come. I met many people, mainly Spanish but also some French, who did the Camino in several 2-300km sections over a number of years, so why not me!
I'm now looking to see when I could plan in the first section to Logrono, which shouldn't take too long for an experienced peregrino - might even be able to fit it into my son's autumn school hols
So, thank you again, everybody for you help and advice! I really appreciate it, particularly now actually having gone and done it!!! Thank you!!! xxx
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