Ambiance on CF versus CDN?

[Kimmy]

I am thinking of walking CDN from Irún instead of CF in September but wonder if the atmosphere is as special as I thought the CF was (walked CF in 2006)? I want it to be a spiritual Camino and not just a beautiful long trekk. Also I wonder how many pilgrims I am likely to meet? I do not mind solitude but one of the things that made my last Camino so memorable were all the wonderful people I met. So what can I expect if I walk the CDN instead?

 

[mralisn]

Hi Camillis,

I can only give a small insight based on my walk in 2010 of the northern route.

Since it was 2010, it was the Holy Year with many more walkers than most years.

The walk is more strenuous, much more elevation gains and drops, absolutely beautiful, refugios more spread apart, many nights in other accommodations, mileage is a bit longer, great places to relax on the beach, tasty food, long days of detours and tarmac walking....

I might not be able to describe the atmosphere as you ask, but I can tell you I had a most incredible time during the entire walk with the most beautiful people. I think you can expect a very tight-knit Camino family who will add to your experience.

Does this help?

 

[Kimmy]

Thanks for your reply. What season did you walk? Did you not find it touristy along the coast?

 

[mralisn]

Oops, sorry.

I forgot to include I walked at the beginning of summer starting June and finished in 28 days near the second week of July. From there I continued 3 days to Fisterre.

For me, it wasn't touristy. I enjoyed the entire walk. However, as I said above, it was the Holy Year AND the World Cup, so it might have been a bit more lively.

Even so, it was no way near the hectic days on the CF. Not even close. Plenty of time and space for solitude, contemplation, reflection, and prayer.

Great small towns and quant seaside villages with incredible fresh dishes.

I'm very much looking to return next summer.

Please keep asking anything you like. I hope I can help.

 

[unadara]

I walked Apr/May 2012, despite a lot of rain (it rained everywhere that April) it was a wonderful experience. The refugios are great, try stay in the Monasteries and Convents. It was quiet but I ended up in a group of 5 after the 2nd week. Long walks, be prepared, also take some short days to not miss the sights. I don't know if I wrote much on my blog but dip in and see, if answer not there don't be afraid to ask. I stayed on coast, through Sobrado De Monxes ? wonderful.

 

[Thornley]

Hi Camilas,

Mralisn goes a bit quick for us oldies but every word he said was true
We walked in July 2010 and had no problems with accommodation.
There are wonderful cities along the way, a fraction harder than Frances , a lot more remote in relation to pilgrims BUT
We are dying to return
Follow the E9 whenever you can and as advised eat the beautiful food available along this coast.
You arrive at lovely coastal villages often.
Have a wonderful time and mix up the accommodation, there are great bargins along this way,
Buen Camino Camilas,
David

 

[Kimmy]

Thanks for all of your replies! CDN Sounds lovely! I would love to stay in some monasteries and Convents and do not mind longer stretches and hilly walking. Where can I find info on the monasteries, Convents, the route that pass Biarritz airport and the E9? And which is the best guidebook for Camino del Norte?

 

[Tia Valeria]

Two good guides are the CSJ (UK) guide and the Cicerone guide. The former can be ordered from CSJ http://www.csj.org.uk/acatalog/The_CSJ_Bookshop_Pilgrim_Guides_to_Spain_23.html - scroll down to find the 2 you would need. (Los Caminos del Norte A: Ruta de la Costa; 1 & 2)

The Cicerone guide to the Northern Caminos is available on Amazon. There are less detailed directions but simple maps. Also Dave from this forum is one of the authors.

We used both - one to read and the CSJ sections we needed for detailed directions.

 

[Thornley]

The E9 is a coastal path that runs beside the camino .
You will not be far away and it rejoins often.
The E9 follows the water and is highly recommended in the German Outdoor Guide for this Camino.
Their distances and maps are EXACT.

You should also have the CSJ guide however many updates were handed out by the tourist offices within the towns / cities.

 

[mralisn]

I have also used the CSJ guide on all 3 walks. I will use again next summer. The small pamphlet is perfect for me and easily supplemented by printouts and advice of hospitaleros/other pilgrims along the way.

GREAT advice above to supplement with the E9. I plan to do this as well. As I mentioned, the CN has been altered many times over the past few years due to construction. Various signs had been placed as detours, and rarely did another sign show up letting a walker know when the "detour" ended or how to return to the Camino path. I saw many signs which could be easily placed anywhere by pranksters or someone who really didn't know which place to put. On several occasions, the path would lead up to the side of a mountain from the sea just to return back to the sea many kms later when one can see a perfectly walkable trail down below along the coast. Grrr!

Well, then again you want to find solitude so maybe this is better! I'm reminded of one of my days walking 51km because I got lost in some hills. I could be proud and blame the signage, but it was most likely me just not paying attention and being caught up in the glory of the morning. Of nearly 100 days of walking the Caminos, this was one of my best days overall. A pleasant cloudy, cool day on various paths led me through wonderful small villages, played with baby sheep, handed fruit from farmer woman who obviously knew I was way off, no traffic except for herds and tractors, beautiful inland scenery, a great feeling when I ended the day.

I think you will really like the Camino Norte.