Undermanager
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Madrid (x2)
VDLP
Salvador
Primitivo
Finisterra / Muxia
Lana
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Well, I am here! Arrived at terminal 1 in Madrid around one a clock, walked to terminal 2, bought a one day tourist travel pass and headed off to my hotel (hostel Tijcal 1) very near the Plaza Mayor, 5 minutes walk from Vodaphone Sol metro station. After a quick shower, I went walkabout, hopped on a few random busses and metro trains to see where they went and tried a few bars offering Tapas. Love trying to speak Spanish. Being very slightly deaf and hopeless at languages all my life, the Spanish phrase book worked! Loads of fun. I got my Credential at 7pm on the dot from 14 Carretas Street on the seventh floor. They don't speak any English but some other people helped us fill the form in; name, age, walking or cycling, when I was leaving, where I was aiming for and 2 euros later, plus 3 euros for a shell, I was done. A few more bars, a bit more Spanish and an early night. I want to try to be on my way by 7am tomorrow. I've decided to have an easy first day and will start from Plaza de Castilla and save myself 10 Kms. Here we go .......
That's exactly where you have had option A and BThere's a an hour or two crossing some open land and then two hours pounding a bike road, which is parallel to a motorway! Not good.
Day 3 from Manzanares to Cercedilla
I don't know what I had, but it was like a bowl of tomato salsa, which you scooped onto toast, and then topped it with olive oil. Very tasty. The coffee was good, too. Anyone like to tell me what I was eating? ..
This hotel is really smart, and this side of town is just fantastic. I love it, and I've only been here a few hours. Another option for the Camino, if you need another option, is to go straight from terminal 4 in Madrid's airport to here by train and spend a few days here as a base, then move on to Sergovia, either walking it (30km) or using the train. I think I read the train timetable correctly! You will certainly appreciate the clean, crisp air. The hotel is big, old and has some history and has a massive bar. Everyone here is very friendly, and they are letting me practise my miserable Spanish skills on them. The views around the hotel are fantastic and the one out of my room is brilliant. It is a major area for hiking and mountain biking, and because of it's easy connection route to Madrid and the surrounding area, attracts a lot of day visitors. There are half a dozen restaurants and cafes within a hundred yards and a big store opposite. This would be a good place to recharge the batteries and let blisters heal!
So sorry I returned home after a day in the wilderness. Otherwise I would direct you to the house (I think I described that in my journal?) where Manzanares priest of Polish origin lives and he could have stamped your credencial.Day 2 from Tres Cantos to Manzanares
I was in bed by 9.00pm and had a great night's sleep in the Council House's cellar bedroom. I set the alarm for 5.00am and was up, showered, had the breakfast roll I prepared last night, drank a load of water from the vending machine and was out the door by 5.45am. I dumped about a kilo of excess baggage last night and spent some time adjusting the backpack properly this time. I've got most of the weight on my hips now, and using the chest strap pulls the rucksack off the shoulders and has stopped the pain I was getting yesterday. I was back on the Camino and in darkness by 6.00am. You can't see the yellow arrows easily when it's dark, but having a GPS unit and a trail downloaded makes all the difference here. If you have a smart phone, and have never used the GPS function before and have never downloaded GPX files to use, a good time to learn and try them out is at home, before you start the Camino. I'm a big fan of using a GPS. It can offer reassurance you are going the right way, is totally necessary when it's dark, and when you are trying to find a specific place after 8 hours of walking, you can go straight there without faffing about for half an hour if you have the coordinates!
The walk to Colmenar Viejo was really wonderful. It was cool, wild flowers are everywhere and it was so noisy with birds singing. It took about 3 hours with a few lazy stops and taking photos. I had a look around the church there for 5 minutes and took a few pictures of the birds nesting on the church roof. Then it was coffee and some toast in a cafe in the main square, forgetting to get a stamp for my credential from someone and was on my way by 10.00am. The yellow arrows are everywhere in Colmenar Viejo now! I think 'they' have been out painting them as they lead you in, through and out of town without any problem.
The journey to Manzanares was a highlight. I'm very glad I'm using proper heavy duty walking boots rather than light trainers, though, but I know opinion is divided. There are ample opportunities to twist an ankle on some of the rough paths to Manzanares, and in my opinion, you need boots with strong ankle support to minimise the chance of injury. I have slightly dodgy knees and a hip that hurts when at the wrong angle so two walking sticks have also really helped. They take just enough pressure off the joints so that by the end of the day, I'm not totally crippled! It was hot again this afternoon but the plan to start really early paid off. It's funny being so hot, but getting closer all the time to mountains with snow on them!
I got to Manzanares about 3.00pm; after 9 hours of walking, the body said it was definitely time to call it a day rather than strike out for Mataelpino. I found SNR Ela's house at Calle Alamos 22 in about 15 minutes, but the GPS coordinates are N40 43.659 W003 51.813 and it's still 15 euros for a bed in a 4-bed room, with kitchen and shower. Perfect after a long day, except for the very loud house renovation going on opposite the balcony at the moment. There is enough to see in town for an afternoon and evening, including the waterfront, a church, a castle and cafes. The only disappointment is I can't find anywhere with a stamp!
I saw lots of cyclists today but have yet to bump into another Camino walker. The walking today was a lot better than day one. Tomorrow's walk is much shorter than today's walk although it looks like a steady climb will be needed in the morning and then a short descent. Let's hope the legs have recovered by tomorrow, but I do have a nice little hotel room booked as a treat. Is that cheating on the Camino?
How do you post multiple photos here? I can only work out how to post one at a time!
Hahahahaha, as I remember there are many buses and trains daily from Barajas T4 to many cities all the way to Santiago de CompostelaThis hotel is really smart, and this side of town is just fantastic. I love it, and I've only been here a few hours. Another option for the Camino, if you need another option, is to go straight from terminal 4 in Madrid's airport to here by train and spend a few days here as a base, then move on to Sergovia, either walking it (30km) or using the train. I think I read the train timetable correctly! You will certainly appreciate the clean, crisp air. The hotel is big, old and has some history and has a massive bar. Everyone here is very friendly, and they are letting me practise my miserable Spanish skills on them. The views around the hotel are fantastic and the one out of my room is brilliant. It is a major area for hiking and mountain biking, and because of it's easy connection route to Madrid and the surrounding area, attracts a lot of day visitors. There are half a dozen restaurants and cafes within a hundred yards and a big store opposite. This would be a good place to recharge the batteries and let blisters heal!
Great that you enjoyed today walk so much. And I envy you the weather. A little bitDay 4 Cercedilla to Zamarramala
Oh my. Oh my! Oh my!!
Has this been the most outrageously wonderful day for decades? I'm not sure. I remember about 30 years ago being driven around by drunk Napalese police in the middle of the night near Pokara as they tried to extract cash from a tight Englishman. That was exciting (looking back). But today, it was truly great. I set off at seven from the hotel, after chucking out more gear and having a breakfast prepared the night before (no where I could find was open so early).
After just over 2 km of uphill walking, you enter the forest. It was cold and I had to use the fleece. The yellow arrows disappear, but you follow the trees with big green dots on, and eventually, the arrows reappear. You might find a GPS trail reassuring here. But then come the Roman roads! They are just wonderful. First, 20 meters, then later on, half a kilometre plus bridges, and after that, very rough tracks, which I think we're Roman, but all the signs were in Spanish or defaced, and I hadn't done my homework, so who knows. After a total of about 8 Kms from the hotel and three hours, you get to the top at just under 1800 meters. Such a blue sky! Great views, pine smells everywhere, and it was getting warmer. I met Derek and John from England and we had a good chat. But they quickly left me behind as I was too slow. They were 77 and 71.
The descent was magnificent. Lots of cows with bells, ever bluer sky, nicely warming up and so clear. The views are just to die for. About two kilometres from the top is a water fountain. I don't know if you can rely on it, but the water today was great. I stopped for a few half hour breaks because it was beautiful. Lots of bikers passed, some stopped and some walkers had a chat (in my now fluent Spanish) about the Camino!
After about four hours from the top, you hit a Tarmac road and have to choose; right in the direction of La Granje, a relaxing shower, a hot meal, relaxation and sleep, or straight on for Segovia. Choose wisely! I went straight on!
Descending was brilliant. More great views , a different landscape of open fields, and the smell of basil, oregano and other herbs everywhere. Three more hours and I was in Segovia, at party time. All the rooms at all the inns were taken, the yellow arrows disappeared or were faint, the streets were blocked with thousands of people and I was knackered and getting &&&&&&& off. I can see how stunning Segovia is, and how everyone should stop here a couple of nights to enjoy it, but after 30 odd Kms, you don't really give a sh**.
So what choice did I have? I had to press on to the albergue (pilgrims’ hostel) three kilometres on the other side of town. It took about an hour to get out, including asking around for a room in hotels in Segovia, but eventually some former pilgrims came to my rescue and guide me out. What I didn't realise, after over 30 Kms, that the next three bloody feffing kilometres involved a descent into a deep valley and a climb out of it on the other side. I was knackered, contemplating sleeping rough tonight as the forecast is great but focussed hard, counted 10 paces at a time and carried on. Another hour!
Today, I walked, with breaks for about 12 hours. I am now hobbling and unable to walk and am taking a day off tomorrow, having booked into a nice hotel. The very very good news is that when you finally crawl into Zamarramala, the owner from the only shop in the square comes and beckons you in and guides you to the best hostel I think I've ever stayed in in my life. It's like a five star hotel, although you are sharing a room, but still, it's free, welcoming, the best showers ever, clean, sheets, heat, a kitchen, and you have to stop here, if you can make it. There isn't a lot here, but enough - let’s face it, what do you need after 12 hours of walking apart from a shop and a bar selling beer and food?
I am genuinely hurting today, but it has been so brilliant. I would do it all again tomorrow if I could. Thinking about it, I probably will the day after tomorrow. And now, to bed.
Hi, Undermanager, you are right that Valladolid is "just another city" in some ways. Here is what drew me to it -- the sculpture museum, which is inside a phenomenally beautiful Renaissance palace. The plaza mayor has a fair amount of charm. A couple of big parks. And knowing I would find some good restaurants. It isn't a "don't miss" city, but it was a nice way to spend some time. I actually walked from Puente Duero to Simancas, then hopped the bus into Valladolid. Stayed there over night, and the following day in the mid afternoon, took the bus back to Simancas and then walked a paltry 6 km or so to Cigunuela. So I did do a minimal bit of walking on both days, and had plenty of time to enjoy Valladolid. I ate at a really good vegetarian restaurant, I can hunt down the name if you are interested.Thanks for the info Peregrina2000. That's useful. I'll certainly aim for Santa Maria tomorrow but we'll see how the feet are when I reach Ane. I'm just looking at Valladolid. I know quite a few people have recommended it, but it looks like another city to me so am not sure. Any suggestions on the Camino for a two day stop next Friday and Saturday?
Hola!Any up-to-date info on places to stay in Ane 0r places after it, please?
I'm just looking at Valladolid. I know quite a few people have recommended it, but it looks like another city to me so am not sure.
That's good to hear your health issues are kind of gone now.About Alcazaren
The GPS coordinates for Bar Real in Alcazaren are N41 22.238 W004 40.386 and the GPS coordinates for the albergue are N41 22.233 W004 40.539 and is paid for by donation in Bar Real. When you walk into Alcazaren using the route we took, there is an arrow pointing off to the right that says ’albergue’ Ignore it. The albergue is actually on the left as you walk in, see the GPS coordinates. We couldn't work out how to get power for water and lighting in the albergue. There is an MCB box (like a fuse box) opposite the bathroom door. Switches should be in the ’up’ position. Just flick them up (they are quite stiff but are designed to be operated like this) if they are not, but with all switches up, we still had no electricity. We found out later there was a problem with the meter, what're that means. Still, a cold shower after a 25km hike certainly wakes you up! The albergue is very nice, with 4 bunk beds for 8 people, a great bathroom and a kitchen of sorts, which has a microwave. There are also lockers. Bar Real is very good. There is excellent wifi here, the first I've had for three days. The beer is cold and the snacks are good. May have a little wander around the village later, but more likely, will just sit at the bar and drink beer. Happy days. And the feet are definitely getting stronger now. The blister pain has gone and the calf strain I picked up yesterday is easing.
Can someone please explain what you would do if this small albergue (or indeed any other) was full?
Oh, so sorry to hear about the food in Puente Duero. I was the only pilgrim there and nice hospitalera prepared us a dinner without even asking me. And she was so forthcoming to serve it an hour later for I had to go to the shop in the village. And after that we had very pleasant Spanish/English/hands conversation for couple of hoursDay 9 Alcazaren to Puente Duero
A Spanish chap had arrived when me and Kim got back from Bar Real last night. He'd decided to spread the entire contents of his rucksack across the floor, so we had to tip-toe around for the next half hour while he sorted himself out. In the morning, I’d thought he’d gone when I got up at 7.00am, but no! He was in the single bathroom / toilet, with his rucksack and all his belongings. He stayed in there for about half an hour, and in the end, I had to bang on the door to get him out. When he came out, it looked like he’d been eating his breakfast in there (what’s wrong with the kitchen?) and doing more rearranging. I’m always interested by different people’s ideas of okay behaviour but it all worked out in the end. He had his breakfast and packed his rucksack and I had my morning ablutions.
Kim was going off to Valladolid on the bus to meet a friend so we shook hands and I set off to Puente Duero. Today is really quite cold with patchy sun and I'm wearing both thin fleeces for the first time on top of a t-shirt. You start by following the arrows out of Alcazaren and then cross some fields and then enter a forest, walk along a main road for a few hundred meters, crossing a bridge and then more fields to Valdestillas. Enough said. I did meet the Spanish chap again, having his lunch by the church. I hope he wasn't carrying some of that stuff, like the jar of olives and cooking utensils!
As you enter Valdestillas, you’ll see the church and a couple of uninspiring cafeterias and bars nearby. You just need to keep walking straight. After about 300 metres from the church on the left, you’ll notice a bank with an ATM in the foyer, which worked for my Mastercard. Then you'll start to see a few nicer looking bars and cafes as you continue to walk, including a nice looking one set back from the main road, on the right hand side. The part of the village a few hundred meters past the church does seem a little nicer than the bit before the church. After about 1 km from the church, you will arrive at the train station in front of you, with the Madrid platform in one direction and the Valladolid platform in the other. It might be an option to walk to here and then get the train to Valladolid if you can work out the times.
At the train station, you turn right for a few hundred meters and then left onto a major road. You spend the next three kilometres pounding the tarmac, which really made my feet and lower leg muscles ache! After three kilometres, the yellow arrows take you slightly left onto a path that runs along side the road, so less foot impact and no danger of a car hitting you. Despite running next to a road, it is actually quite pretty when you look over the countryside. The straw has just been baled and the fields roll. It’s blue sky now but still chilly with a blustery wind. I’m about 5 Kms from the final destination so have stopped, removed the boots so the feet can cool down and am having a rest before the final hour or so of walking.
And now the very good news. The albergue is only 10 minutes walk from when you enter Puenta Duero. And when you get there, it is wonderful, a labour of love. You can't miss it as it is clearly signposted just before first the bridge after you have actually entered the town (not the very first road bridge you go under on the outskirts). The GPS coordinates are N41 33.111 W004 47.632 It's set in a pretty patio garden, with lots of plants, seating areas in the sun and a table for communal eating. The beds are comfortable, the host was very welcoming with some very tasty vino and the shower hot. With a full house, this could be extra fun around a dinner table. I think that breakfast is also being provided but not 100% sure. Also, Kim turned up. He’d met his friend for the morning then walked from Valladolid to here this afternoon.
Whilst the albergue is excellent, trying to find some proper food for an evening meal was more challenging. I asked in every restaurant, but they only served drinks (what am I missing here??) The bars only serve drinks, not even tapas. There were two small shops in the high street near the 24 hour ATM selling bread, tobacco and then mountains of sugar-filled snacks and sugar drinks, ice cream and sweets, although one did have some fruit in. There is a supermarket apparently, at the far end of town from the albergue. I walked a kilometre to try and find it but gave up. I was getting knackered. In the end, it was a coffee, apple, doughnut, tomato and bread roll dinner. And then magically, the bar near the roundabout closest to the albergue had some sandwiches for sale, so I had one with with coffee and followed it by bed. Bring your own supplies if you are a fussy eater!
This is the first day when I feel really great after the walk, a little tired but still full of beans and most importantly, I can walk properly! The feet aren't hurting, there are no new blisters, the calf muscles are okay and the legs don't wobble. If only I had been able to buy some proper food in Puente Duero, it would have been a very good day. Being closed seems to be a recurring theme in many of the places I’ve been to so far. Public-facing businesses in most other parts of the world are open 10, 12, 14 hours plus. Spain seems to be shut for business most of the time, and when they are open, the choices are limited. Perhaps I’m beginning to form the wrong opinion.
Now, all I’ve got to do is to decide where to aim for tomorrow .....
Exactly my thoughts about Simancas and possible albergue there. Although I've had very cold and rainy half a day that day I could imagine staying there the rest of the hald day stage.Day 10 Puente Duero to Peñaflor de Hornija
I set off about 7.30am after some very welcome toast and coffee, paying a donation and after saying goodbye to Kim (again), and the host. You walk out the hostel to the bridge, then walk up through the town to the main road, following the arrows. You then walk by the side of the road all the way to Simancas, not a very nice 6kms, but it’s another bright, sunny and chilly day, and my feet are working!
The bridge over the river at the start of Simancas is where things change. It's stunning, as is the river and the old village itself, which you have to walk uphill to get to for five minutes. I spent about an hour wandering around here taking a few photos of the narrow cobbled streets and old buildings, and stopping off at a bakery for some fresh nibbles and a bar for some coffee. Although the albergue in Puente Duero is great, and Simancas doesn't have one, it might well be worth walking the extra distance and splashing the cash on a cheap hotel and staying here the night. It’s so pretty, you can have drinks down by the massive river and it has loads of character. I bet the evenings in some warm sun would be fabulous. It’s quite a small place, too, probably 10 minutes to walk across the whole village from one end to the next. It had a nice old looking church (closed).
From the centre of Simancas, you follow the arrows out, cross a main road and then you have a six or seven kilometre walk to Ciguñuela across glorious countryside, rolling hills, wild flowers in full bloom, an old sheep herder’s shelter and the wind singing you along. In the middle of nowhere, along came a Police Land Rover as well of all things (the only people or transport I saw on this dirt track). We got nowhere having a conversation, me in English and them in Spanish so they said ’adios’ and off they went. Quite reassuring, I thought.
Ciguñuela is a small village, with cobbled streets and a great bar on the left as you climb a small road up to the church. I had a cold beer, some nice olives and an exciting surprise bowl of something that looked great under the counter, and some locals were tucking into with zeal, which I thought were mushrooms, tasted of something I couldn't eat (and I’m usually an unfussy eater) and I had to find a way of disposing of it in a bin. Luckily I was sitting outside on my own in the sun! I just couldn't eat it. I suspect on closer inspection it was the innards or stomach maybe of some animal or other! Oh well, in for a penny. I do need to move quickly on, however, in case they decide to empty the bin while I’m here. Ciguñuela had a nice old looking church (closed). This would be a nice, quiet place to stop overnight if you fancied a small, very quiet place with a couple of nice bars.
Now is the time to get the music out. I’m not a great one for listening to music as I walk, but after you have climbed out of Ciguñuela, you will hit a very flat plain for about 7kms, very very flat. Just fields, sky and the dirt path. Get the sounds on, get into a rhythm and start eating up those kilometres! Pass down into Wamba, stop for a coffee, some food or to buy some water in the bar that is down a little road on your left when you have entered the village, and then leave again. Wamba had a nice old looking church (closed). You will climb out of Wamba, and then there will be another very, very flat eight kilometres. More fields, Sky and a dirt path.
You will see Peñaflor de Hornija from a long distance away, but it will take a long time to close the gap and get to it. Eventually, as you get close, you will drop into a small gorge, then climb out of it. Then you will drop into a much deep, much bigger gorge, and will have to climb out of that into Peñaflor de Hornija. This will sap any remaining energy you have! The good news is that you are less than five minutes from the albergue when you first hit the village. Follow the arrows. The GPS coordinates are N41 42.634 W004 58.980
The albergue if great. There are eight beds, a nice kitchen, shower and area to hang laundry. There was no mop to clean up after a shower. Also, I was just mentally preparing myself for another cold shower, when after a few minutes, the hot water started to run freely. Be patient! I was the only one here on the night I stayed.
Peñaflor de Hornija probably has a nice old looking church that is almost certainly closed, so I'm not going to bother looking. I suspect that my entire trip to Spain will be categorised by every church in every place, from the largest city to the smallest village being closed, but the bar or cafe next to it being open. So far after ten days, this has proven the case, more or less.
Food is becoming a serious issue! For the second night running, I’m in a place where the supermarket is shut, the local shop shuts just after midday and I’m going to have to check out the bars. Fortunately, Bar Hornija is knocking me up a ’platter’ which so far includes a litre of red wine and a litre of water. I am so looking foreword to the meal. Please Lord, don’t let it be sheep’s stomach.
I am really amazed at what little business goes on in each town and village, and when it does happen, it seems to last just a few hours. I’m going to try and stock up a bit more but have been trying to avoid carrying food, on the assumption that places with people in sell things, and keeping food in this heat isn’t such a good idea. If this lasts another day, I will have to abandoned ship for a day or two and get the bus to Valladolid or Leon for a while! Some enterprising locals should start offering meals at the albergue! I’m really getting an unhealthy lust for some cheese.
You should see the views from Peñaflor de Hornija tonight. They go for miles. Great blue sky. Warm. Magnificent. Now where’s my food ......
I didn't stay at that albergue but comparing Laurie's remark and my data I think it might be best for you (well, it's Saturday tomorrow and who knows what will be opened in Medina) after crossing Rio Sequillo on C-519 to follow main road (Ctra.Toro) and turn slightly right on N-601 with the park on your left. Soon after the park to your left there's Oficina municipal de Turismo de Medina and Convento San Francisco. I'm sure that at one of these places you'll get info about albergue.I'm confused by my own notes and those in the CSJ guide. Is the
Albergue Monasterio de Santa Clara
near the Medina De Rioseco?
So, I walk to the Medina de Rioseco, which is a town. Walk through it to the other side, and there is the albergue? Any help appreciated.
And oh my god, dinner has arrived and it's MAGNIFICENT!!
Told you, a perfect spot.I really enjoyed my evening in Bar Hornija. They served me a wonderful salad with great tuna, and then loads of wine, water and beer. I was happy, full and drunk. The only downside is the bloody bull-fighting season has started and is on telly everywhere. What is the point? It is the most despicable thing, on a par with cock fighting, bear bating and dog fighting. So barbaric, sickening and unnecessary. I keep hoping the bull widens and deepens the Matador’s anus, but it hasn't happened yet. Come on, you Spanish Bulls!...
Totaly agree, it's a lovely village with small tienda and acogida municipal which I haven't see but if I were you and really going the opposite direction I would definitely try to stay here.... all the way to Valverde. You won’t see this tiny village until you are almost on it, as it is tucked down in a small valley hidden from the plain. When I arrived, the bar was open and they were getting ready for a party and the Mayor’s election the next day. I was invited to stay, but needed a room, a shower, and a rest and decided to press on....
...I did get lost when I first arrived. To my utter amazement, the Tourist Information Office was near by and open! However, the woman behind the counter only spoke Spanish. Clearly, catering for non-Spanish tourism isn’t high on the list of anyone’s list of priorities here. She then decided she’d speak to me as fast as she could in Spanish, with no eye contact and pointing in twenty different directions, then completely ignored me when I tried to make sense of what she was saying. How do people like that get a job in tourism, or get a job sitting at a counter dealing with people? How do organisations like that not have a management structure that can pick up problem employees like that? That person is an idiot of the first order and deserves to be sacked, so someone who cares can do the job properly. I can’t wait to eat, sleep and leave Rioseco as fast as possible tomorrow. ...
...I do find the CSJ guide helpful generally, but distances are a little short by a few kilometres quite often, like both today and yesterday. I've never stayed in a convent before so that’s a first. Valverde could have been a lot of fun if I liked the idea of a party and had so where handy to stay, and spoke Spanish. After 11 days, still no rain! Only sun. This walk from Madrid should be so much more popular! All the infrastructure is there. A bit of a push, some marketing in the right places and local economies all along the route would get a boost....
...I’m potentially three or four days away from joining the Camino from France to Santiago but am not at all sure how I will like going from seeing hardly any pilgrims to hundreds and thousands and having busy albergues instead of only empty ones. Am giving some thought about turning back and returning to Madrid the way I came, perhaps trying to stop in different albergues on the way back. Going to Santiago isn’t a big deal to me if it means being surrounded by loads of people for the next month. The other possible plan is to get a bus and train to Porto and walk to Santiago from that direction. Or just go to the beach. Things to ponder over the next few days .....
I asked in every restaurant, but they only served drinks (what am I missing here??)
It had a nice old looking church (closed).
Hola, UndermanagerDay 12 Medina de Rioseco to Cuenca de Campos
I was aiming for Villalon today, but never got that far. If ever I do the Camino de Madrid again, I will take the bus for this stage!
It starts off promisingly, as you make your way from the albergue in the convent just outside the bottom of town uphill through the pretty but much over-hyped centre to the start of the canal. There weren't many arrows, but just ahead up through the town and follow the tourist signs for the canal. It’s at the top of town. When I got to the marina for the start / end of the canal, there was a nice boat, (for taking tourists for a ride!), and a few places to sit and have sandwiches. You’re all excited because you are near water. The canal is nice. It’s big, tree-lined, with lots of birds singing and a nice dirt path on both the left and right side. Is it used? Apart from the tourist boat, there were no other boats on it. No one fishing on Sunday. No benches for a picnic, or bird hides along the canal. No businesses close by. No cafes by the water. You can see boats, but they are on old photos on small billboards along the canal. You can walk on either the left or right side of the canal. It makes no difference. I walked on the left. There are no arrows, but you just follow the canal until you get to the massive old mill at the third bridge. It takes about two hours. You can’t miss it.
You'll see a Camino marker in front of you when you walk past the old mill, where three tracks meet. The shell points left-right. You need to go straight on, along the small tarmac road, which is falling into disrepair. You can see the village you are aiming for easily in the distance. You will also see a bird hide a little way down the road, which would be a nice shelter if needed. The bird hide is possibly the outstanding feature of today’s walk!
It’s three kilometres along the tarmac to the village called Tamariz. There’s a working fountain just before you enter the centre, and a disguised bar up on the left of the square where the main municipal building is. It looks like a small white shed and didn't have a name but look for a few tables and chairs outside. They were very welcoming when you enter. Once you have had a drink and a rest, you follow the arrows out of the village, whilst mentally preparing yourself for the (at least) 8 kilometres to Cuenca de Campos. My feet and calf muscle in one leg were already complaining after 3 kilometres on the tarmac to the village but after 8 more kilometres pounding along the side of the road, they could take no more and I just had to stop, knackered, and was getting concerned more for how I will be tomorrow.
As your 8 kilometres finish, your lonely road, which is very quiet, starts uphill and then crosses rolling hills, will join the main highway. You’ll see one of those really annoying yellow arrows that point exactly between two potential routes, with no other clues. I decided to carry on along the main road rather than the more appealing dirt track, and about 600 meters later as you enter the village, you will see more yellow arrows, confirming your correct choice.
Follow the arrows into the centre of the small village and eventually, you will see a cafe bar called Meson la Cañada on the other side of the road. They will welcome you, sort you out with a drink and arrange the stamp and albergue for you. The cafe seems to serve up food. I was aiming for Villalon this morning when I started out but had to stop. My feet were hurting seriously now and the muscle strain I picked up a few days ago was back with avengence.
I’m not sure, but I may be the only one in the albergue. It is in the centre, massive, has 30 beds, kitchen, living area and half a dozen showers! This will do very nicely for a night, but I’m really worried about the damage to my feet after today.
If you are planning your Madrid Camino, of all the stages, this is the one that needs some proper considered thought and planning. You can do better than the canal plus tarmac option. I gather there are some alternative routes, including a disused railway line from Medina de Rioseco? Check Google Maps and alternatives that people have used. Print off the maps. Be a little more adventurous but whatever you do, I would avoid walking this stretch via the canal; the canal is nice but what comes after may be a problem. I would even seriously consider taking the bus to avoid the tarmac pounding. You need to weigh up walking every meter of this particular walk against doing some damage that stops you walking at all for a few days so your feet can recover!
If things hadn't gone a little bad today, and I did less than 20kms, I wouldn't have ended up in Cuenca, and I am so glad I finished at Cuenca. The albergue is great, the people have been so helpful and Meson la Cañada a great place to finish the evening. I'm not sure what they are cooking at the moment, but I seem to be the only customer. I will mix the red wine with the beer tonight .....
And after some thinking you have my permission to have another beer and another and... Well, you know the drillDay 13 Cuenca de Campos to Santervás de Campos
I had a fantastic 3 course meal in the pub last night and many beers and for most of the evening, I was the only customer. I woke up this morning in my 30 bed mansion full of beans! I bandaged up the more sensitive parts of my feet with this cushion stuff that you put on then use plaster everywhere to keep it in place, then rubbed lots of Tiger Balm into my calf muscle. It’s about two o clock and so far, I can still walk okay but have made a mental note to give the long trousers their first wash in two weeks tonight!
Today started quite cold but blue sky as usual. With both fleeces on, I headed out the door to Villalon, 5 km away, an easy route on dirt track following the yellow arrows. As you approach Villalon, you’ll see yellow arrows pointing to the albergue. Follow them, as they take you though the centre where the shops are and out the other side and on your way again. I stopped for some coffee and breakfast and at 10 o’ clock, the shops started opening, so I bought bread, cheese, fruit and apricot tea for the day and some water. There are plenty of shops in the centre of this bustling little town as well as banks. You won’t see shops or bars for the next 20 km so take enough to see you through the day, especially liquid.
After leaving Villalon, things become magnificent for the rest of the day. Massive rolling fields, huge blue sky, great dirt track, huge birds hunting for food along the sides of fields and clear arrows. You’ll pass through a village called Fontihoyuelo after 8 km. There was a lot of building going on in the many houses here, but there was no sigh of a shop or bar. Most likely, you will stop for drink in the shade of the (closed) church and then move on.
It is very bright today, hot after about 10.00 am and sunny with a little wind so be prepared. I haven’t seen any other walkers for a few days now and that is fine with me. Am still contemplating what to do tomorrow, though, when I reach Sahagun in the afternoon. Choices, choices, choices.
I arrived at Santervás de Campos about 4.00pm and although still full of beans, decided that personal hygiene should rule over more kilometres. Since it is a hot sunny day, I will have a beer, then have another beer, then wash the clothes, so I can look Handsome for the end of this leg tomorrow and the start of the next one, whatever it may be .....
You then cross a small bridge and walk along a dirt track with a small river on your left for about 6 Kms to Grajal de Campos. It is a little confusing when you get there if you aren't going into Grajal. First, you go under a railway bridge. Next, you come to a Tarmac road. Turn right for Grajal but left over a bridge over a small river for Sahagun. Then, don’t take the first right dirt track immediately after the bridge. Walk a hundred meters and turn right there. You will see a yellow arrow pointing between two dirt tracks - take the first right.
..
Well, I am here! Arrived at terminal 1 in Madrid around one a clock, walked to terminal 2, bought a one day tourist travel pass and headed off to my hotel (hostel Tijcal 1) very near the Plaza Mayor, 5 minutes walk from Vodaphone Sol metro station. After a quick shower, I went walkabout, hopped on a few random busses and metro trains to see where they went and tried a few bars offering Tapas. Love trying to speak Spanish. Being very slightly deaf and hopeless at languages all my life, the Spanish phrase book worked! Loads of fun. I got my Credential at 7pm on the dot from 14 Carretas Street on the seventh floor. They don't speak any English but some other people helped us fill the form in; name, age, walking or cycling, when I was leaving, where I was aiming for and 2 euros later, plus 3 euros for a shell, I was done. I tried a few places to change money but the rates were awful. The best I got offered was 1.25 euros to the pound and even at Birminham airport, they were offering 1.35 euros this morning! The tourist rate online was 1.37 this morning when I checked and the business rate was 1.40 euros to the pound. I used an ATM in the end and got 1.36 euros. A few more bars, a bit more Spanish and an early night. I want to try to be on my way by 7am tomorrow. I've decided to have an easy first day and will start from Plaza de Castilla and save myself 10 Kms. Here we go .......
Day 16 Puenta Villamoros de Mansilla to Leon
With a hotel booked and check-in not until this afternoon, there was no rush to get up set off, so had a lay-in til 7.00am, said the goodbyes and set off at 7.30am. It should be another hot and sunny day today.
For those of you wanting to prepare for the Camino de Frances, find your busiest main road at home, and then walk on the side of it against for four or five hours each day. Spend half that time on the Tarmac and half on the dirt track by the road. Savour the different engine sounds. Taste the exhaust fumes. Feel the rumble in the Earth as the next 40 tonnes truck drives four foot away from you. Go deep inside yourself, but concentrate so you don't get hit by the traffic. I can see why some people call the Camino de Frances a spiritual experience, as they probably half quite a few near-death ones!
So, four hours to the hotel in Leon including coffee stops. After checking in, I managed to fall asleep for three hours but managed to get out for the early evening. Top of this list before sightseeing was to buy some cushion bandage stuff I can plaster to my heels to ease the bruise feeling. Then I bought a pair of light beach slip on shoes to replace those rubbish ones I bought in Singapore two years ago and have been meaning to throw out almost from when I bought them. I now have the world’s most comfortable evening slip-on shoes to wear in the evening. I just want to dance. Those walking boots are just about the best money can buy, but God they hurt! I think my feet expand too much in the heat and that is causing some discomfort, that and the amount of road walking.
I positively sprang around the historic part in my new shoes, saw the usual cobbled streets full of clothes shops and ice cream parlours and then (very) reluctantly parted with 5 Euros for the Cathedral visit, but was genuinely surprised at the wonderfulness of it. Gothic through and through, it needs a few vampires in corners jumping out and scaring people and a few bats, and maybe some tombstones to slide open to make it an unforgettable visit, but apart from that, it’s a pretty amazing building considering it’s 13th century.
After that, back to the cobbled streets to select a place for my Al fresco evening meal, and then my Al fresco frozen yogurt, followed by a stroll back to the hotel and bed, interestingly at the same time many bars and restaurants are just opening. I’ve yet to see Spain after 10 o’ clock - anyone know if I'm missing anything?
I haven’t read up about the next few days. It presumably must start with a foot pounding on Tarmac to get outside of Leon, but after that, who knows? I also have to check up on the area where someone has gone missing - I gather the latest advice from reading the Guardian is to skip a 15 miles stretch or else travel in a big gang. I guess a bus or train journey will be in order soon, then. I hope that the Spanish authorities are clearly communicating a) what the advice is and b) how to take public transport to avoid the stretch where there is a problem, but I’m not holding my breath. I certainly hope there is a much increased police presence. I suspect for the sake of local businesses that the message is it’s a small problem, nothing to worry about, look at the bigger picture etc etc but we’ll see.
Exactly the reason why I don't want to stay in most recommended albergues as Granon etc. I hate being forced to do something that is supposed to be done (like washing feet in Italian albergue before Itero de la Vega - if I remember correctly). If I know that the latest leaving time is 8AM then I'll be out of the albergue at that time. Sleepy, half dressed or whatever, but please don't force some ************ things upon me, because I've paid for something just plain usual....Although I generally enjoyed the albergue in Ruitelan, I didn't at all enjoy the f***ing opera music being blasted out at max volume through the entire building at 6.00am for 15 minutes, to signify breakfast is ready. I think the owner’s idea of being slightly wacky is one step too far. Some people don’t want breakfast and not everyone wants to get up at 6.00am! ...
Good luck. Yes good idea starting at Plaza de Castilla. I did that as well because I could not find any arrows in MadridWell, I am here! Arrived at terminal 1 in Madrid around one a clock, walked to terminal 2, bought a one day tourist travel pass and headed off to my hotel (hostel Tijcal 1) very near the Plaza Mayor, 5 minutes walk from Vodaphone Sol metro station. After a quick shower, I went walkabout, hopped on a few random busses and metro trains to see where they went and tried a few bars offering Tapas. Love trying to speak Spanish. Being very slightly deaf and hopeless at languages all my life, the Spanish phrase book worked! Loads of fun. I got my Credential at 7pm on the dot from 14 Carretas Street on the seventh floor. They don't speak any English but some other people helped us fill the form in; name, age, walking or cycling, when I was leaving, where I was aiming for and 2 euros later, plus 3 euros for a shell, I was done. I tried a few places to change money but the rates were awful. The best I got offered was 1.25 euros to the pound and even at Birminham airport, they were offering 1.35 euros this morning! The tourist rate online was 1.37 this morning when I checked and the business rate was 1.40 euros to the pound. I used an ATM in the end and got 1.36 euros. A few more bars, a bit more Spanish and an early night. I want to try to be on my way by 7am tomorrow. I've decided to have an easy first day and will start from Plaza de Castilla and save myself 10 Kms. Here we go .......
Definitely the funniest description on expectations of certain event. Bravo!!!Day 24 Samos to Ferreiros
I have since discovered that Vespers, in the monastery at 7.30pm last night, does not involve drinking loads of free beer and wine and meeting lots of loose women, but is more to do with listening to half a dozen monks sing or chant lots of songs or prayers and give a sermon in Spanish. Although clearly, free beer would have been my preferred option, it was nevertheless an interesting experience, regardless of whether you are religious or not. I also made an executive decision and booked the return flight back to the UK but decided to fly from Gibraltar, but have given by self some bonus weeks, so I can check out Porto, Lagos, Seville etc.
Ah, I've stayed there. The dormitory was full but una peregrina Catalana and myself grabbed the last double bedroom. One of the nicest stays on CF!!! And the evening light with cows still grazing, bottle of vino tinto, tasty dinner ... what more a tired peregrino would want....and then a small one in a beautiful little bar in Morgade another hour or more away, which you should definitely try to stay in if you can get a place, and then a couple of nice larger ones in Ferreiros, a further 20 minutes on. The one in Morgade was the first albergue I have come across in over three weeks that was full, even though it is only early June, but it does only have half a dozen beds. ...
Completely agree on Casa de Molar, Melide urbanisation & missing albergue, the first albergue (I'm almost sure you mean Casanova) after Palas and overall feeling of last 100kms!Day 26 Ventas de Naron to Boente
It certainly was a great albergue to stay in, the Casa Molar. The Pilgrim’s meal was great and included a bottle of wine and the Champions League final on TV. No wonder I slept in and didn't get going until 7.35am this morning!
If you can get together and share a taxi to miss out this next section, it will be money well spent. Most of the day is spent trudging on or beside main roads again. There are a few nice sections, however. These include the first few kilometres from Ventas de Naron, which was done in thick mist with lots of hooting owls, and the hour spent walking after Palas de Rei. The albergues in the first few villages after Palas de Rei in particular would be worth planning into any trip, as they are very pretty, in lovely surroundings. They don’t open until 1.00pm though. Apart from that, you will be spending a lot of time wondering why you are doing this walk.
Melide is about as grotty a town as I have seen since arriving in Spain nearly a month ago. It reminds me of my home town, a badly planned 60’s town gone wrong. It does have dozens of albergues, however, and all the facilities you may want of a town so as a functional stopping off point, it may meet a need. I did notice some incredibly packed out restaurants in the high street as I walked through, on a Sunday lunchtime, so it must have something going for it. If you are staying, you might want to keep following the yellow arrows until you are on the very edge of leaving Melide, then take your pick from the half dozen albergues on that road out. It is such a shame that the very pretty walk into Melide through Furelos doesn't have an albergue to go with the pretty village, river setting and lovely little cafes.
I kept on walking past Melide to the albergue in Boenta, about 6 kilometres away. The walk there was very nice and probably the highlight of the day. The albergue itself is on the main road. I’ve been here for about three hours now and yet to hear any of the staff say please or thank you and yet to see any of them crack a smile to non-Spanish. It must be painful for them having to deal with perigrinos but they clearly don't like anyone who isn't local. The albergue has those plastic mattresses on each bed, which are easily wiped clean if you wet the bed or throw up on it, ready for the next person to use, and the beds are quite close together. The showers have nowhere to hang anything and the advertised swimming pool is slightly bigger than four bath tubs pushed together. It's okay for a night and the pilgrim's meal was very good. There is another albergue 50 meters past this one on the left that might be worth checking out. Most wise pilgrims were pressing on to the lovely and recommended albergues that follow, although I haven't seen them yet. I wish I had just taken a break and then done the same. There's an interesting church opposite, and you can pick up your extra daily sello from here, too
Less than 50 Kms to Satiago now. I don't want to rush, but I just want to get this Camino de Frances part done, finished and forgotten about, so I can move on to better things. I hate not finishing what I've started so will cross the finishing line, either in 48 or 72 hours.
To be honest, a few small parts of this Camino de Frances are very nice since I joined it from the Camino de Madrid. Some people I’ve met have been very nice and the social ascetic is the fun part (and I've also met more than a reasonable number of very, very ’odd’ characters and a couple of Brits who have been absolute prats). But overall, it really is a fairly rubbish walk, which I wouldn't recommend to anyone. The last 100kms, especially, are proving to be just grim, unless you are into walking by busy roads and following graffiti signs and queuing with masses of people to walk a stretch. There is also a noticeable increase in the numbers walking and dashing to a particular albergue as early as possible. If you are going to do this route, think long and hard about it. There might be better options.
Day 27 Boente to Santa Irene
I can't recommend at all the first albergue in Boenta, the one opposite the church. It was a hot, horrible night for most people. There were many bodies crammed into the large room. It was hot all night long. There was no air movement. Many people complained of mozzies. Few had anything resembling a good night’s sleep. People were constantly getting up, trying to keep cool.
It’s a long day today. When you leave Boenta, you will be going up and down many hills for the first two or three hours and mostly, it will be the usual dirt track by a road or on the road, and it is very busy. Eventually, you will arrive in Arzua, a town with plenty of facilities, including albergues, cafes and supermarkets. You can walk through the long town in less than half an hour, and then you start to walk on some pretty country tracks. After a few hours, it’s back onto tracks by the roads. You can press ahead to wherever you like but I stopped in the prettiest albergue in the whole of the travels so far, in Santa Irene. It was slightly more expensive at 13 Euros, but you got a towel and I was in a four bedroom attic room in a single bed not a bunk bed and had real sheets! The place was a home from home. You just follow the yellow arrows past the cafes either side of the busy main road, then walk for about 10 minutes. It is clearly signed.
It has been a hot, hard day today but am now only 20kms from Santiago, so need to decide what to do tomorrow and subsequent days. Have picked up some heat rashes and my back hurts as well. This is another non-section that I could have happily done without but it's done now! This Camino de Frances is pants. Don’t do the last 100 Kms!
I have enjoyed the last 100kms on both my Caminos - and I will walk it again!
buen camino[/QUOTe
Thank you for the encouragement; buen Camino
Day 32 Finisterre, the last post, and onwards ....
Old habits die hard. I was wide awake around 6.00am and checked the weather forecast. Rain was on its way and it had been raining overnight, so that ruled out walking to Muxia and I didn't fancy sitting around cafes in Finisterre in poor weather. After going for a walk, I found out by accident (it wasn't on any timetable I saw) from a group waiting that a ’fast’ bus left for Santiago but you had to change in Baio - the connecting bus was waiting in Baio when we arrived) at 8.40am, which meant I should be able to get a connecting bus at midday to Porto, if a seat was available. Getting reliable and clear local bus info outside of large cities is probably more difficult in Spain than anywhere in the world, and that includes India or any other third world country you care to name! I would certainly have had a rest day in Finisterre if the weather had been better, as it is a quiet, pretty place with great beaches close by, and if I could have worked out how to get to Muxia by bus, I probably would have gone there. But new adventures await!
The decision was made so went back to the hotel, packed, grabbed a coffee and set off. I’ve now got about two weeks to do a Porto, Lagos, Seville, Córdoba, Malaga, Gibraltar tour. This will be done using busses, trains and blablacar.com but no walking, although I do want to look at the National Park down South near Lagos in Portugal and the Fisherman’s Trail. I think it lacks the albergues that Spain has so probably won’t be there long.
So, this post is the last one for this Camino de Madrid thread. I am very, very glad I did this Camino. It has generally been brilliant fun. It is so easy to walk from Madrid to Finisterre, much, much easier than when you are sitting at home planning it, especially if you have never done one before. The yellow arrows are everywhere and it is incredibly hard to get lost or even take a wrong turning. The albergues are everywhere and there are often far more than in any guidebook - it might be worth tracking down an online up-to-date albergue list before you go - and in May up to mid-June, there was absolutely no problem getting a bed anywhere. I never booked ahead or had to ring round. You just don’t need to at that time of year, although the last part of the Camino de Frances was getting busier by the time I finished.
I think in 31 days I had a total of five minutes of rain, and wore the poncho for about two minutes and that was on the last day of walking yesterday! I used the light sleeping bag (goes down to minus 4 degrees C) for about 15 of the 31 days and used blankets provided for the other days, and had two very light fleeces for mornings and sometimes evenings. I would take the bags and both light fleeces again - you need them. I never had any problems with bedbugs but met one girl who had a very serious attack over her face and neck, but it was in a hotel not an albergue!
I'm reasonably fit, but the distances can be long and hard and it is difficult to see how most people can train for the 8 or 9 hours of walking they will do each day before they arrive. The distances can also be short if you want. I could easily have taken twice as long and stopped off at more places. I typically walked between 25 and 30 kms a day, starting around 6.30am and finishing around 3.00pm and took a few breaks in between. Sometimes, I walked 40 kms and for 12 hours, and sometimes just 15 kms and for 5 hours. Needless to say, good, comfortable walking shoes and socks, fully broken in, are vital. Take advice about the size of the shoe, which should be at least a size bigger than your foot size. You also need to know how to deal with blisters and how to avoid them in the first place so do your homework. I found a roll of plaster and some ankle bandages, which you can buy in large supermarkets, brilliant as I could make a cushion for my heels and plaster it on, and apply cushions to toes when a plaster was to thin. Having ’bruised’ heels were my biggest problem for most of the trip. It felt at times like someone was digging a sharp needle into my heels, especially at night when I'd stopped walking, but you have to keep going and ignore the pain! Dealing with a potential blister the moment you felt a problem was really important. Stop and deal with it before it becomes a much bigger problem. Some dissinfectant wipes were also light to carry but useful.
When stopping at an albergue, I would typically have a shower first, wash out the walking t shirt and anything else that needed it, hang them up to dry, have a rest for an hour or two, then eat, drink, Internet stuff, socialising and bed between 9.00pm and 10.00pm. Snoring in dorms can be a huge problem at the start, but you get used to it after a few weeks. You really do need to bring some seriously good earplugs, though, the best money can buy! I always found the facilities (toilets, showers, kitchen, washing facilities etc) at albergues to be fine and usually excellent. I stayed in hotels all costing between 20 and 30 Euros on 4 nights, at the start in Madrid, at the end in Finisterre and in Segova and Leon. The odd stay in and privacy of a hotel keeps you normal! Wifi is everywhere in albergues and cafes and generally very fast. I had only a few days without wifi or where it was poor. I also did not buy or need a Spanish SIM card for my phone. I could have left my phone at home, although I did listen to music on it. I used my iPad for everything, including taking photos. I think an iPad mini or a seven inch tablet would be perfect here.
You don’t need water bottles or water bladders. Most people just bought water from supermarkets and refilled them at fountains. Being aware of the distances between likely water and food sources is important as on very hot days, running out and becoming dehydrated is possible. On the other hand, carry too much and you are adding a couple of kilograms to your pack weight. Take a good, wide brimmed floppy hat to protect you from the sun.
I started the Camino with about 8 kgs on my back, and an extra amount for water and snacks. I quickly threw away excess clothes, deodorants etc so I was carrying between 6 and 7 kgs plus liquid. It is worth spending money on extra light equipment where possible as the weight adds up. I used a small bottle of shampoo for hair, soap, cleaning clothes and washing out the chocolate that had melted in a pocket in rucksack! On the Camino de Frances, there is the option of forwarding your entire pack from the hostel you are in to a named one further along the path. It seemed to cost about 7 Euros a day, was efficient and ideal for some people. You simply filled out details on an envelope, popped the fee in and left it at the hostel. You just carried a day sack. I never tried it myself as I wasn’t bothered by the weight I had to carry but I can see its benefits. On the plus side, I’ve lost about 4kgs of blubber on the walk and feel super-fit.
For me, the Camino de Madrid was just outstanding. I met 3 walkers in two weeks, the albergues were usually empty, I had to speak Spanish and there were long periods on my own, in the sun. The scenery changed every few days, and was fantastic, the villages pretty and everyone I met was super helpful. No one in Spain, judging by this route, speaks English, so learn some basic Spanish before you come. Have key questions and phrases written down to show people. Use Google Translate in wifi areas. The Camino de Frances did grow on me, but it was quite a shock at the start, as suddenly, I went from meeting 3 people in 2 weeks to seeing at least 100 people a day! It is very social, I met some great people, had really good communal dinners and drinking sessions. It is worth looking out for albergues that do communal dinners by the way, as I found everyone to be fun, with great food and good value. The Camino de Frances is just different to the Madrid Camino. The only thing I really didn't like was the last 100 kms into Santiago - I would definitely not do that section again. Too many roads, too much traffic, too much of a dash from one place to the next. It was exciting arriving in Santiago after a month of walking, but for me, there is only a day needed to see it, at the most. It is similar to other places like Leon.
If you have the time, walk on to Finisterre. That was three brilliant days, with great scenery, excellent company and seeing the sea is surprisingly moving! Next time, I will spend more time in the Finisterre and Muxia area, for sure. There are some other walking paths to be had as well.
Next time? No doubt about it! I think the Seville to Santiago walk is on the cards and certainly the Portugal Camino so look out for a thread on these walks next May (unless I am bored in September). I would do the Madrid Camino again without a doubt and perhaps even the whole of the the Frances route one day. It would be fun to bring a bike as well.
I hope that those of you planning your own Camino have found these day-by-day posts helpful, as I found the threads posted before I went helpful. It has been fun writing them and reflecting on each day and the overall trip. If you are still not sure about doing a Camino, whether you are fit enough, or if you will cope, or if you can live in albergues, my advice would be to just go for it. I never met a single person on the entire trip that regretted doing it.
Yours
Dave
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