Camino del Norte advise please

[Lindy Loo]

I am doing the Camino del Norte from San Sebastian in April this year. I've done the Portugal Camino in 3 stages, the last 150ks of the French Camino and walked from SdC to Finesterre. Is the Norte very different to any of what I've done before? Are the villages close or is it a little isolated in that way? Any tips would be helpful. Many thanks. Buen Camino.

 

[aidan macdhorcaidh]

I am doing the Camino del Norte from San Sebastian in April this year. I've done the Portugal Camino in 3 stages, the last 150ks of the French Camino and walked from SdC to Finesterre. Is the Norte very different to any of what I've done before? Are the villages close or is it a little isolated in that way? Any tips would be helpful. Many thanks. Buen Camino.

Del norte is less crowded but albergues are less frequent so good route planning is essential.

 

[Lindy Loo]

Del norte is less crowded but albergues are less frequent so good route planning is essential.

Thank you so much I'll certainly do that. I don't usually book ahead but might this time.

 

[OZAJ]

I have walked the Norte several times and have never booked ahead. I have, however used a guidebook to help plan my route with achievable stages. Maybe the route is more crowded than when I last walked and maybe booking ahead is necessary now.

 

[Lindy Loo]

Just out of interest when did you do it please?

 

[KRA2018]

The first week of the Norte is one of the most beautiful stages I have walked - but it was ( for me) one of the hardest. There is a greater distance between villages but that was never a problem, you should just plan accordingly with water and snacks. It is not at all completely remote and an increasing number of people are on the path. I even noticed a few donation tables with food and drink on my walk on day 3 or 4. For me the only toughness was the constant steep downhills which was so painful on my knees. And it rained everyday the first week (which didn’t help) I am watching the thread linked below! I will walk the same route again for sure but will be better prepared with training

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-to-strengthen-my-knees-for-down-hills.84660/

 

[brianne fitzgerald]

Just out of interest when did you do it please?

End of April early May 2023

 

[aidan macdhorcaidh]

Just out of interest when did you do it please?

I walked from Irun to Bilbao in a week last October and I am 74. Great municipal albergue in Irun. Lovely albergue up in the hills about 5km past gernika. Plus the twelve tribes (kinda hippy Christians) have an amazing hostel and restaurant about 4km before Orio. San Sebastian....big city ...public hostel....not as good as albergues ...so do your research well....but otherwise....go for it and good luck. More albergue info if you want it.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Beautiful walk. Lot of up and very steep down, especially before Bilbao. Somewhat more rigorous than the Frances and much more so than the Portuguese. Rains but very friendly Basque people. Buen Camino

 

[Guateboston]

Norte is more strenuous than France’s or Portuguese. Don’t expect cafes and or services often. Carry snacks and lunch. It is beautiful. I a made reservations a week at a time. Walked in end of May

 

[lt56ny]

As others have said the Norte is without a doubt harder and with less infrastructure but I know it is getting more popular than when I walked it 7 years ago. The scenery is breathtaking. I would always have food especially because if the weather is good you can just pick a nice rock and look out to the ocean and enjoy. There are lots of up and downs. There were some really good albergues I stayed in. I never made a reservation but i never make reservations. I walk late in the year so when I do call an albergue it is only to make sure it is open.

 

[Lindy Loo]

I walked from Irun to Bilbao in a week last October and I am 74. Great municipal albergue in Irun. Lovely albergue up in the hills about 5km past gernika. Plus the twelve tribes (kinda hippy Christians) have an amazing hostel and restaurant about 4km before Orio. San Sebastian....big city ...public hostel....not as good as albergues ...so do your research well....but otherwise....go for it and good luck. More albergue info if you want it.

Aidan thank you kindly for this. I'll gratefully accept any info you are happy to provide as it all helps.

 

[David with new Kit!]

We walked in September 2022 and found that the distances between towns/villages could vary quite a bit. Our preferred daily distance is around 20kms but on the Norte its not always possible due to the infrastructure. We found (our) daily distances varied between 16kms and 30kms.

The Norte gets an awful lot of Spanish tourists and as such there is not as much need to cater for those doing the Camino. Prices and demand goes up at weekends as the coast is very popular then.

We did the whole route in 37 days and we booked a week ahead throughout. Availability will also depend on what type of accommodation you want. It was tight at times, but we always got accommodation

Certainly not as many café stops as the CF, so plan accordingly

Also, as mentioned above, there are a LOT of ups and downs - A great route, you will enjoy it

Have fun

 

[Lindy Loo]

We walked in September 2023 and found that the distances between towns/villages could vary quite a bit. Our preferred daily distance is around 20kms but on the Norte its not always possible due to the infrastructure. We found (our) daily distances varied between 16kms and 30kms.

The Norte gets an awful lot of Spanish tourists and as such there is not as much need to cater for those doing the Camino. Prices and demand goes up at weekends as the coast is very popular then.

We did the whole route in 37 days and we booked a week ahead throughout. Availability will also depend on what type of accommodation you want. It was tight at times, but we always got accommodation

Certainly not as many café stops as the CF, so plan accordingly

Also, as mentioned above, there are a LOT of ups and downs - A great route, you will enjoy it

Have fun

Cheers for that David.

Did you make your own overnight stops or follow the stages on Gronz, Wise Pilgrim or another App? I'm 70 in April and tend to prefer no more than 20-24ks a day so I'd be interested in your stages, only if it's not too much bother.

Many thanks

 

[nathanael]

Del norte is less crowded but albergues are less frequent so good route planning is essential.

I don't agree there are plenty of Pensions if you are able to do them.

 

[aidan macdhorcaidh]

Ok. My experience was that it was less crowded than e.g. Camino Frances and also there appeared to be fewer albergues.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Lindy Loo,
The Norte/Primitivo combination was only my second Camino and at that time in mid-April 2016, I knew nothing of special Camino apps, but exclusively relied on Dave Whitson's guidebook so used it like a Bible. We did not reserve ahead of time, but a few times did have the bar owner call for us, or sometimes I asked a young person to make the call because they often knew a little English and they were always happy to help and respectful. The only time we ran into a problem was on the hospitales path when all privates were filled up. We backtracked to the muni albergue in Berducedo we had passed up because it was small with very cramped space, but thankfully got the last two open bunks; the top ones. On all of my Caminos it was the worst one I've experienced, but it probably has had improvements since I was there.

 

[Lindy Loo]

Thanks for that info, it's helpful!

 

[David with new Kit!]

@Lindy Loo
The attachment shows my stages, distances and prices. We did stay in some albergues but our preferences were for a room with private bathroom where possible.

If nothing else it will give you ideas

 

[Camino Chrissy]

David, you will be helping many people with planning their Camino on the Norte. If I were to repeat it, I definitely would be going over your thorough pdf with a fine tooth comb.

 

[jpflavin1]

I am doing the Camino del Norte from San Sebastian in April this year. I've done the Portugal Camino in 3 stages, the last 150ks of the French Camino and walked from SdC to Finesterre. Is the Norte very different to any of what I've done before? Are the villages close or is it a little isolated in that way? Any tips would be helpful. Many thanks. Buen Camino.

Lindy:

The Norte is a beautiful coastal walk. There is more road walking but it is rural roads. This route is not as flexible as some others, like CF, with stops spread out further. The first week plus has plenty of daily ups and downs. It is well populated so you are unlikely to be alone. I never had any issues finding accommodation. I walked in April. The only guide I used is Gronze.com. I checked the website each night and decided on my next stop. There are also numerous alternatives that intersect with the Official Camino route, ie: e-9.

 

[Justin Yoo]

Lindy,

I did the Norte in May 2017 and compared to Frances I can say it definitely more strenuous. There is a lot of ups and downs but comes with a gorgeous view all the way to Ribadeo. There are villages between stages but some of some don't have amenities like super markets or cafes so plan accordingly. Finding Accommodations should not be a problem just avoid the really small towns, they may list as open in the guidebook but you are the mercy of owners who can sometimes not open at all due to lack of pilgrims. Had this happen to me twice. You wont find alot of pilgrims menus like on the Frances but there alot cafes that sell pintxos and al la carte food. The Norte sees alot more spaniards so prepare to speak spanish. Some tips I can give is prepare yourself for alot of asphalt walking, get shoes that are tailored to this. Enjoy the food as much as you can,the basque region especially in San Sebastian the Pintxos and steak is amazing. Always takhe coastal re toute variants, it is tough but the views are worth it especially the walk into Santander out of Guemes. The walk out of the Gijon is awful there is ALOT of industry and if you can avoid it, try and take the light rail out. Be mindful on the day that the Norte splits to the Primitivo especially if your going the traditional route the guidebook should let you know what city this is but there are alot of signs so pay attention to that, had a friend who missed it and had to backtrack. Other that enjoy! and make sure to drink alot of Sidra and Txakoli!

 

[Lindy Loo]

Thanks Justin,

I am not keen on too much asphalt but have loads of time and have done plenty of research to hopefully avoid or miss as much as I can. I am not familiar with Sidra or Txakoli so maybe need to do more research!!

 

[Lindy Loo]

@Lindy Loo
The attachment shows my stages, distances and prices. We did stay in some albergues but our preferences were for a room with private bathroom where possible.

If nothing else it will give you ideas

Holy Moly David I was expecting 10 place names on a piece of notebook page not such an amazing record of your adventure. I can't thank you enough - this is way more than I dreamt to get. I have started my Itinerary but your notes will be such a great resource (especially love your Breakfast ideas!)

Not sure I can put in words how helpful this beauty is going to be to me and many other who follow this Thread!

Muchas gracias!

 

[moriahsdavis]

We walked in September 2022 and found that the distances between towns/villages could vary quite a bit. Our preferred daily distance is around 20kms but on the Norte its not always possible due to the infrastructure. We found (our) daily distances varied between 16kms and 30kms.

The Norte gets an awful lot of Spanish tourists and as such there is not as much need to cater for those doing the Camino. Prices and demand goes up at weekends as the coast is very popular then.

We did the whole route in 37 days and we booked a week ahead throughout. Availability will also depend on what type of accommodation you want. It was tight at times, but we always got accommodation

Certainly not as many café stops as the CF, so plan accordingly

Also, as mentioned above, there are a LOT of ups and downs - A great route, you will enjoy it

Have fun

Did you find the Norte to be quite busy even in September? We're doing it this Fall - September to October over 6 weeks. I was expecting it to be less busy by then. Any thoughts?

 

[vleadbe]

Did you find the Norte to be quite busy even in September? We're doing it this Fall - September to October over 6 weeks. I was expecting it to be less busy by then. Any thoughts?

I walked it in September. It was still busy and the Spanish summer holidays fell into part of it. I never struggled for accommodation though or heard of anyone else struggling. I would just recommend booking larger cities ahead of time. There is a yearly festival in Bilbao at the beginning of September some time and I literally got the last bed available in Bilbao on booking.com when I booked two days before. Weather wise there was no rain at all, and some days were hot but not as bad as it had been in August and July (I walked from Le Puy). I took the split onto the Primitivo, those days were cooler, particularly in the mornings with fog till about lunchtime. However it actually made the landscape even more beautiful in my opinion. Hope this helps.

Edit: sorry I should add, should you do the primitivo i would recommend booking the night before, when I got into town the next day the albergues were full so I was always glad I reserved. I walked with someone who didn't and each day he struggled to find somewhere or had to keep walking, but kept stubbornly refusing to book in advance.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Did you find the Norte to be quite busy even in September? We're doing it this Fall - September to October over 6 weeks. I was expecting it to be less busy by then. Any thoughts?

We did not find it overly busy with Peregrinos, but it was busy in the towns with Spanish tourists. The north coast is also very popular with surfers and that puts a lot of pressure on accommodation too. Once out of tourist areas, it was not busy. We saw less than ten people each day actually walking the Norte. (We didn't bump into any groups)

 

[sunnydays]

I walked from Irun to Bilbao in a week last October and I am 74. Great municipal albergue in Irun. Lovely albergue up in the hills about 5km past gernika. Plus the twelve tribes (kinda hippy Christians) have an amazing hostel and restaurant about 4km before Orio. San Sebastian....big city ...public hostel....not as good as albergues ...so do your research well....but otherwise....go for it and good luck. More albergue info if you want it.

Which albergue after Gernika did you stay at?
Also just to query, is the 12 tribes place not before San Sebastian?

 

[trecile]

Which albergue after Gernika did you stay at?

Maybe Albergue Caserío Pozueta?

Albergue Caserío Pozueta | Albergue de Peregrinos en Pozueta | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue Caserío Pozueta, en Pozueta: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[sunnydays]

Maybe Albergue Caserío Pozueta?

Albergue Caserío Pozueta | Albergue de Peregrinos en Pozueta | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue Caserío Pozueta, en Pozueta: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

Yes probably this one,its the closer to Gernika

 

[Maggie Y]

I am 70 now. I did Camino del Norte in my 60 s over several stages. The first day after Irun, to Pasajes is absolutely beautiful but a steep and long climb especially if you're not prepared in advance. Over the stages I really minimised the weight I carried in my pack which really helped. Apart from this I agree with all the other comments. There is a community type hostel near San Sebastian as I recall and also a Monastery later on. These experiences are not to be missed.
Walking in and out of Bilbao is also very memorable. Im not the type to book histels in advance and we were usually lucky. Been Camino Maggie

 

[pmozen]

Norte is more strenuous than France’s or Portuguese. Don’t expect cafes and or services often. Carry snacks and lunch. It is beautiful. I a made reservations a week at a time. Walked in end of May

I would love any hotel recs along the way. Planning to go in May this year

 

[trecile]

I would love any hotel recs along the way. Planning to go in May this year

I stayed in a mix of albergues, hotels, and pensions.
Hotel Luzón in San Vicente de la Barquera was a standout for me. Only €40 for a room in this lovely classic hotel.

Hotel Luzón - San Vicente de la Barquera | Hotel | Gronze.com

Información del Hotel Hotel Luzón, en San Vicente de la Barquera: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[backpack45]

Beautiful walk. Lot of up and very steep down, especially before Bilbao. Somewhat more rigorous than the Frances and much more so than the Portuguese. Rains but very friendly Basque people. Buen Camino

I agree with every word you said. Probably my favorite Camino route so far! Worth every moment!

 

[wabana]

I am doing the Camino del Norte from San Sebastian in April this year. I've done the Portugal Camino in 3 stages, the last 150ks of the French Camino and walked from SdC to Finesterre. Is the Norte very different to any of what I've done before? Are the villages close or is it a little isolated in that way? Any tips would be helpful. Many thanks. Buen Camino.

I cycled the Norte last September 23. ( www livealagom .life ). obviously I saw a lot of walkers (but Far far less than would have been on the Frances). I would say (having walked the Frances in 2021) that the Norte is much more physically demanding -whether on bike or as a walker.... you can prove this by looking at the elevation changes and plan you days accordingly. You will need to consider the (likely) weather that time of year. Also, vs. the Frances, there are some towns that if I were walking I definitely would have built into my trip as layover days such as San Sebastián as they were just incredibly beautiful beaches and vibe. I found this camino qualitatively very different as well in ways difficult to put in a nutshell. It was, however, incredibly beautiful and made for an epic memory. After Gihon, I walked the entire Primitivo with a friend. The consequence is that I'll have to return to 'finish' the Norte from Gihon...... Buen Camino !

 

[jabrown]

I am doing the Camino del Norte from San Sebastian in April this year. I've done the Portugal Camino in 3 stages, the last 150ks of the French Camino and walked from SdC to Finesterre. Is the Norte very different to any of what I've done before? Are the villages close or is it a little isolated in that way? Any tips would be helpful. Many thanks. Buen Camino.

This Camino will rack up more miles than the previous walks you describe. That's not a problem, you just need to put in some training walks, especially steep inclines and declines with weight on your back. Some of the distances can be lengthy. Once you're beyond Bilbos, there is more level ground, and there's a good deal of road walking. There are alternate routes to avoid some of this, but I stuck to the traditional route, so can't advise you on that. I also stayed in pensions 95% of the time. I booked a day ahead, based on how much I wanted to walk, how my feet were feeling, weather, and other variables. I went in Aug/Sept. and there were a lot of European tourists section hiking. I didn't encounter a lot of pilgrims, but there were some. Toward the middle of the route, mostly Spanish speaking folks. I booked through booking.com, so language difficulties did not arise. In April, you'll encounter rain, so take a poncho. If you have super light rain pants, they might be worth taking. The Basque will be muddy in places, so consider the water proofing issue when you select your shoes. Consider gators if you go with trail runners, as I believe most are not water proof. I loved the walk. I was alone much of the time past Bilbos until the the trails converge about 100km from Santiago. It was immersive, contemplative, life-changing. Good luck.

 

[Silvermomma]

@Lindy Loo
The attachment shows my stages, distances and prices. We did stay in some albergues but our preferences were for a room with private bathroom where possible.

If nothing else it will give you ideas

This is amazing. Thank you so much. Now I am worried about my budget, though.

 

[pmozen]

@Lindy Loo
The attachment shows my stages, distances and prices. We did stay in some albergues but our preferences were for a room with private bathroom where possible.

If nothing else it will give you ideas

Hi David,
Thank you so much for sending this excellent PDF! I'm planning to walk the north route mid-may-Mid June. Would love any feedback on having luggage transported and/or the weather.

 

[David with new Kit!]

Hi @pmozen
You will note that there are a couple of days marked "Bus" instead of walking distances. That's because my wife suffered from shin splints and after taking advice from this forum we took several rest days, changed her boots to sandals and we also used the Spanish postal service Correos to move our rucksacks to lessen the weight on her legs. If using Correos (or any other provider) its important to check they will deliver or collect from your chosen accommodation before contracting with them. Dropping and collecting at random albergues does not work (we tried that).

We were exceptionally lucky with the weather, we only had one day of rain the whole 5 weeks we were out there. The sun can be quite hot in the North and my wife took a sun brolly to reflect the UV light (We started the last week in August when it hit 35C)

Hope that helps a bit.

 

[David with new Kit!]

This is amazing. Thank you so much. Now I am worried about my budget, though.

Hello @Silvermomma
Yes, it is more expensive than the Frances, but keep in mind, those accommodations costs were for two people, and we chose the more expensive option of rooms with private bathrooms. There was cheaper accommodation available, but we chose what worked for us. Also, sometimes two people sharing a private room matched a similar price for two people in a shared dorm.

I didn't meet anyone who could not get accommodation of some type

Enjoy your trip. There are a lot of coastal variants, try a few of them.