Camino Estrecho Reverse – where should I start?

[Umwandert]

Last year I asked: “Winter Camino in Andalusia, but which one?” and received many helpful answers from the forum. I decided to walk the Via Serrana in December, and although many things went wrong (unnecessary detours, rainstorms, mean dogs, etc.), I enjoyed a challenging, remote trail. Afterwards I wrote a thriller-like series about my experience.

Now I want to return to Andalusia and have been thinking about the options I had discarded last year. I like the combination of Camino Estrecho (Algeciras – Puerto Real) and Via Augusta (Cádiz – Seville) because it seems to be the only Camino in Andalusia that includes some stages along the coast.

However, since the Via Augusta seems completely flat and rather boring (similar to the last two stages of the Via Serrana), I thought about reversing the route, i.e. starting in Seville and ending in Algeciras. Plans changed again when veteran forum member @islandwalker recently unveiled the Camino de Fray Leopoldo, a new path that runs from Alpandeire, a small village south of Ronda, through hilly terrain to Granada. This new Camino seems to have everything I like, plus a bit of a pioneer feel.

Current plan: Camino Estrecho Reverse, then train from Algeciras to Ronda (or Jimera de Libar), followed by the new Camino ending in Granada. I plan to start in the last week of November.

My question to the experienced hikers in this forum: Where would you start the Estrecho Reverse? In Jerez, Puerto Real or Cádiz?

• Jerez de la Frontera: has an airport and seems to be a beautiful city worth spending a day in before leaving. I would start with Jerez – Puerto Real (24km), which is actually the second stage of the Via Augusta in reverse. I wouldn't visit Cádiz.
  
  
• Puerto Real: This is the official end of the Estrecho, which is located between Jerez and Cádiz. I would fly to Jerez and travel to Puerto Real by train or bus and then start the Puerto Real-Medina Sidona hike (30km), which seems a bit strenuous to me on the first day. And I would miss both Jerez and Cádiz.
  
  
• Cádiz: Old town located on a picturesque peninsula. I would fly to Jerez, take the bus or train to Cádiz, spend a day there and then start walking with Cádiz – Jarana (22 km, part of the first stage of the Via Augusta according to Gronze), then Jarana – Medina Sidona (22km). I wouldn't see much of Jerez and nothing of Puerto Real.

Unfortunately I don't have the time to visit all three cities. Where should I spend a day after arrival and before the start of the hike?

For the rest of the Camino Estrecho Reverse I plan to follow the usual stages with stops in Medina Sidonia, Benalup Casas Viejas, Tahivilla, El Lentiscal, Tarifa and Algeciras. I am aware that there is no pilgrimage infrastructure other than one albergue in Tahivilla and it might be difficult to find cheap accommodation. And of course there will probably be no pilgrims.

Thank you for suggestions and answers.


PS: Moderators, please feel free to move this thread. There doesn't seem to be a section for the Camino Estrecho, so I've included it in the section for Via Augusta.

 

[Madrood]

I was in these three cities in April this year, though I won't say that I exhausted everything to see and do in them. Puerto Real is probably the least of them, the alcazar is nice but I don't recall much else. Cadiz and Jerez; I'd probably go for Cadiz but eh, it's close. I'd also favour it because I think it bookends nicely with Alg, coast to coast.

Any more questions ask away, but I did my own parallel route to the Estrecho (in part to solve the accommodation problem) and don't have much to say for the official section between San Fernando and Bolonia.

 

[Umwandert]

Thanks Madrood, I have read your journal with interest. You walked much longer along the coast. I'll try to stick to the original route (as I'll walk in reverse with the help of wikiloc). So far I am able to find accommodation everywhere, although with limited options and not cheap, mostly around 40-70 Euros. I don't know yet, whether the only albergue on the Estrecho in Tahivilla is open year-round.

Regarding my point of start, I now tend to Puerto Real (but staying in Cádiz before).

 

[Madrood]

Yeah I think I averaged about 28 euro by following the coast for accommodation. I did notice a prominent spike in pricing at the weekends though. I'm not sure about the albergue but the association in Cadiz would know, worth getting in touch if you haven't.

Looking forward to reading your journey

 

[islandwalker]

Now I want to return to Andalusia and have been thinking about the options

I don't know if this will be useful or not (maybe just info to store away for another winter walk), but there is a route we really enjoyed that would connect Tarifa with Jimera de Libar. It is higher up in the hills than the Via Serrana and gives you beautiful views as well as allowing a stay at the youth hostel SW of Algeciras. It goes: Tarifa - El Pelayo (youth hostel) - Los Barrios (via a gorgeous route through the Alcornocales Parque Natural) - Castillo de Castellar (great village where you stay inside the castle walls) - Jimena de la Frontera - El Colmenar (beautiful high route from Jimena) - Jimera de Libar (by train so as not to repeat your last year's walk?). Let me know if you'd like me to send you the wikiloc tracks. Wishing you a great walk whatever you decide! I'm very curious about the new part of the Camino de Fray Leopoldo and am looking forward to your comments!

 

[Umwandert]

I don't know if this will be useful or not (maybe just info to store away for another winter walk), but there is a route we really enjoyed that would connect Tarifa with Jimera de Libar. It is higher up in the hills than the Via Serrana and gives you beautiful views as well as allowing a stay at the youth hostel SW of Algeciras. It goes: Tarifa - El Pelayo (youth hostel) - Los Barrios (via a gorgeous route through the Alcornocales Parque Natural) - Castillo de Castellar (great village where you stay inside the castle walls) - Jimena de la Frontera - El Colmenar (beautiful high route from Jimena) - Jimera de Libar (by train so as not to repeat your last year's walk?). Let me know if you'd like me to send you the wikiloc tracks

Thanks a lot, @islandwalker. This is very tempting. Unfortunately I have limited time and after multiple changes my camino schedule now is finally fixed. After walking the Estrecho in reverse I'll take the train from Algeciras to Jimera de Libar in order to start with the Ruta/Camino de Fray Leopoldo.

I am considering adding El Colmenar - Cañada del Real Tesoro (half a stage of the Via Serrana) to my hike. When I was in the 'Valley of the Vultures' last year, I had bad weather and didn't see any animal at all. If the weather is friendly this time, I would love to repeat this section.

 

[islandwalker]

I am considering adding El Colmenar - Cañada del Real Tesoro (half a stage of the Via Serrana) to my hike.

That sounds wonderful. I am really looking forward to reading your thoughts on the Fray Leopoldo route. It does look like accommodations will be hard to find in some places after Ronda, so I am wishing you luck! We had the same problem on the Ruta del Argar last year. If there is only one place to stay in a village and that one place is closed for renovations, it makes things difficult!