I love both of these caminos, but if I had to choose one, I would tip the scale in favor of the Invierno. That’s just my opinion. Both caminos go through untouristy parts of Spain, both have a lot of rural beauty. But the Sil River, the Miño River, the vineyards, and the Médulas give the Invierno a leg up in terms of natural beauty, IMO.
The accommodation on the Invierno is now more than adequate. Several private albergues have opened (Chantada, Lalín, Rodeiro, Monforte, Puente Domingo Flórez), which adds to the public ones in Vilamartín, Xagoaza, Quiroga (and maybe a place or two I have forgotten). There are pensiones and hoteles to take up the slack in places like Médulas and Barco de Valdeorras. And for those who prefer non-albergue accommodations,there are lots of small pensiones.
The one “problem point” is between Quiroga and Monforte, at least for those who don’t fancy 35-36 km days. The obvious mid point is Pobra de Brollón, which is still trying to get its act together to open an albergue now that the As Viñas pensión has closed. And the Pensión Pacita, a short hop off camino from Barxa de Lor is still closed due to family illness. Gronze does say that they expect to open in February or March, but that hasn’t yet happened apparently. That makes the best alternative to break up that stage the casa rural/hotel in Salcedo.
This post details three ways to get there. I think that walking to Salcedo on the off-camino, but marked, river trail from Barxa de Lor makes the most sense and would be much more enjoyable than taking the road from Castroncellos or a ride from the owners from Pobra de Brollón, but that’s just me. Both places in Salcedo are owned by the same family.
They are on booking, but they are also on WhatsApp, which would be a more owner-friendly way to make a reservation, IMHO.
And since I’m on my Invierno soap box, I’ll throw out my repeated praise of the 6 km loop from the Casa Rural Torre Vilariño, which is a short 13 or so from Monforte. This loop takes in a few romanesque churches and some terrific vistas of the horseshoe bend of the Miño. The Torre Vilariño was Galicia’s first Casa Rural ever licensed by the Spanish government, and it is very nice. It has several different buildings, and its restaurant does get some tour buses, but the place is family run, with beautiful grounds, and good pilgrim prices. They had a fire a few years ago, limited to the kitchen, I think, but are up and running and also are on WhatsApp. Torre Vilariño is also right next door to a small museum in an old pazo, and there is a prehistoric castro up on a hill on the grounds. It is just a great way to spend a day.
Ok, end of Invierno preaching. The Sanabrés is lovely, don’t get me wrong!
