Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Porto

[erith long]

Hello fellow pilgrims, we want to walk from Lisbon to Porto, starting about 15 september, Is anybody walking this route that can give me advise about albergues on the route,? best location to start based on experience, ( I heard that out of Lisbon is a terrible industrial way) and other tips? my husband is 78, although in good physical condition but sometimes needs to rest for a day to recharge batteries.
We have done Porto to Santiago twice, both coastal an interior.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Erith and welcome to the forum.

I don't know if you've seen the guide made by forum members on the Lisbon to Porto stretch, but I think it's pretty good (if a bit outdated).

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-portugués-lisbon-porto-2017.517/

Also some info on making shorter stages.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/short-stages-from-lisbon-to-porto.133/

This recent thread from @GuyA raises a lot of your questions and may help you. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ues-having-second-thoughts.50280/#post-548112

I personally recommend starting in Lisbon, right at the cathedral. The caminho takes you through the Alfama (ancient Moorish area), old port area with some beautiful buildings, through the river walk Expo area, and then along an old canal. It is not very industrial. There is industry, along the river a bit further north, but you will be near the train tracks and can if you want hop on a commuter train to pass it by.

Albergues are popping up. There is now one in Alpriate, 20 km from the Cathedral, a perfect first day's stop. The hospitaleros are members of the Lisbon caminho association and they can help you plan and deal with your concerns.

And just a couple of days ago, we got a report that there is a new albergue in Bemposta, and it looks very nice. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ergue-at-caminho-portugues.50397/#post-550137

There are many nice towns for spending some time, particularly Tomar with its very nice little downtown and its amazing castle/convent up on the hill. And Coimbra, an ancient university city, with late Romanesque cathedral, old university library, etc. And don´t miss the Roman ruins south of Coimbra, I believe there is now a place for pilgrims near the ruins in Conimbriga.

Please let us know if you have specific questions, but all in all, I think. you will find that the pilgrim infrastructure on this route is now very good. Add to that the great food and relentless hospitality of the Portuguese people and you have all the makings for a great camino. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[Walking Lover]

Hi, Erith and welcome to the forum.

I don't know if you've seen the guide made by forum members on the Lisbon to Porto stretch, but I think it's pretty good (if a bit outdated).

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-portugués-lisbon-porto-2017.517/

Also some info on making shorter stages.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/short-stages-from-lisbon-to-porto.133/

This recent thread from @GuyA raises a lot of your questions and may help you. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ues-having-second-thoughts.50280/#post-548112

I personally recommend starting in Lisbon, right at the cathedral. The caminho takes you through the Alfama (ancient Moorish area), old port area with some beautiful buildings, through the river walk Expo area, and then along an old canal. It is not very industrial. There is industry, along the river a bit further north, but you will be near the train tracks and can if you want hop on a commuter train to pass it by.

Albergues are popping up. There is now one in Alpriate, 20 km from the Cathedral, a perfect first day's stop. The hospitaleros are members of the Lisbon caminho association and they can help you plan and deal with your concerns.

And just a couple of days ago, we got a report that there is a new albergue in Bemposta, and it looks very nice. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ergue-at-caminho-portugues.50397/#post-550137

There are many nice towns for spending some time, particularly Tomar with its very nice little downtown and its amazing castle/convent up on the hill. And Coimbra, an ancient university city, with late Romanesque cathedral, old university library, etc. And don´t miss the Roman ruins south of Coimbra, I believe there is now a place for pilgrims near there, around Coimbra.

Please let us know if you have specific questions, but all in all, I think. you will find that the pilgrim infrastructure on this route is now very good. Add to that the great food and relentless hospitality of the Portuguese people and you have all the makings for a great camino. Bom caminho, Laurie

Hello fellow pilgrims, we want to walk from Lisbon to Porto, starting about 15 september, Is anybody walking this route that can give me advise about albergues on the route,? best location to start based on experience, ( I heard that out of Lisbon is a terrible industrial way) and other tips? my husband is 78, although in good physical condition but sometimes needs to rest for a day to recharge batteries.
We have done Porto to Santiago twice, both coastal an interior.

 

[Walking Lover]

My husband and I walked the Portuguese in July from Lisbon to Santiago. Leaving Lisbon was difficult as Brierley's book warned us. Once we got away from the river, it was a fairly blah walk. We walked to Alverca, didn't plan to walk to Azambuja, so took a train. Once we got to Azambuja, there was nowhere to stay. The albergue, which was supposed to open at 3:00, never opened. So . . . we called ahead to a hostel in Santarem and took the train to there.
The walking in Portugal was very difficult compared to Camino Frances. The 4x4 granite cobblestones or pavement, about 75% of the camino, wreaked havoc on my feet and hips. I run anywhere from 20 - 25 miles/week and never have had this issue, but day after day on hard surfaces, for 13-20 miles took its toll.
Don't expect a lot of beauty along the Portugal route. There are some, but I was disappointed. Also, there are some tremendously steep, rocky climbs so be prepared.

 

[hel&scott]

Hi @erith long, I am not sure the poster above walked the same route as i don't remember any hard climbs - cobbles, roads and rain yes, plenty of mud too but then we did it in winter. Everyone's Camino is different and you need to be open to what the way has to show you. I think Lauries post is probably more useful as she gives some great advice. Lisbon and Porto are both great cities and I hope you have a great walk between them.

 

[alhartman]

@erith. I am planning to walk Lisbon to Santiago starting about 1 October. I am aging enough so that 20km days is about my limit. The resources given by peregrina2000 have been key to my planning a more leisurely Camino than the published stages. Those resources should answer any of your questions as they did for me

 

[amorfati1]

Hello fellow pilgrims, we want to walk from Lisbon to Porto, starting about 15 september, Is anybody walking this route that can give me advise about albergues on the route,? best location to start based on experience, ( I heard that out of Lisbon is a terrible industrial way) and other tips? my husband is 78, although in good physical condition but sometimes needs to rest for a day to recharge batteries.
We have done Porto to Santiago twice, both coastal an interior.

Out of lisboa I took the train until almost Azambuja - (11km walk into Azambuja) - from there via Valada and Ponte de Muge (where i overnighted) - walk to Santarem ...alongside the river Tejo and agricultural lands for the most part. enjoyed it very much.
having walked 1 month - i can NOT confirm that it was 75% on cobblestone as another poster has reported.
there are cobblestones, and they are not easy to traverse (i had good shoes AND insoles though) - but those bleak descriptions i sometimes come across .... can't confirm at all.
Peregrina shared excellent info.
have a read through this amazing forum and sub-forum also on the accommodation of the portuguese.
you'll find boat-loads of info and tips and sharings.
enjoy the caminho .... very best wishes-September used to be a lovely time in portogallo - hope you will still encounter it like that. wine festival season as well
C

 

[Magwood]

It's three years since I walked from Lisbon (bumping into @amorfati1 from time to time). I used @peregrina2000's notes to assist our exit from Lisbon and for work-arounds to long stages. I believe there are now a couple of new albergues which should make it easier to walk shorter distances. Fortuitously, although I can't claim to have planned it, I walked through the industrial areas at the weekend and there was very little heavy traffic and no particularly dismal surroundings.

I really enjoyed the variety of woodland and farmland tracks, but I walked in springtime when there was a lot going on in the fields and it was all rather interesting.

You will find some sort or elevation on most days, but extremely minimal. The only stage of exertion is between Ponte de
Lima and Rubiaes where you will encounter a very big climb, but very pleasant.

I stayed in some very nice albergues on the CP and really enjoyed the experience, both when I had a walking companion between Lisbon and Porto, and also when I was walking alone from Porto to Santiago.

I posted to my blog every day, including lots of photos of the landscape and info about accommodation. You are welcome to take a look here

 

[cj2003]

Adding to @peregrina2000 's excellent overview you can find a list of places to sleep along the route from Lisbon - https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...df-route-portugues-route-monacal-coastal.404/

It takes the coastal route from Porto, so after Porto you have to choose yet again, but I'm guessing you have that part of the route covered, having been there before

Adding to what the others wrote about the route from Lisbon .... well, I loved every meter of it! Walked with my wife and enjoyed the company then the scenery wasn't anything particular. The cobblestones are tough, though!

 

[erith long]

Hello everybody,, We thank you very much for your helpful responses and advise, you guys are amazing!!! Terry is looking into all the suggested guides, and will make a decision as to go this September or early next year. We walked Camino de Madrid in May and he claims he still recuperating!!! (meanwhile I just want to pick up my rucksack and start walking),
I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[Linda2232]

Has anyone walked from Vila nova de ancos along cm1113 to the conimbriga ruins?

Thanks

 

[jsalt]

Has anyone walked from Vila nova de ancos along cm1113 to the conimbriga ruins?

Thanks

Hi, I doubt that anyone here would have done that. Vila Nova de Ancos is way off the camino, and Portuguese roads are notorious for being narrow, having no sidewalks, and mad drivers who think they are racing at Monte Carlo. I have walked from the ruins into Condeixa-a-Nova for accommodation (before there was an albergue near the ruins), and, instead of back-tracking, I used google maps and headed north out of Condeixa-a-Nova, without any trouble, to re-join the camino further along.
Jill

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, I doubt that anyone here would have done that. Vila Nova de Ancos is way off the camino, and Portuguese roads are notorious for being narrow, having no sidewalks, and mad drivers who think they are racing at Monte Carlo. I have walked from the ruins into Condeixa-a-Nova for accommodation (before there was an albergue near the ruins), and, instead of back-tracking, I used google maps and headed north out of Condeixa-a-Nova, without any trouble, to re-join the camino further along.
Jill

Hmm, Jill, your comment suggests that Condeixa is not right on the Camino. I remember walking about two minutes "off route" to get to the ticket office. Has that changed? Mind you, I walked from Lisbon in 2008. It would be a shame to take the camino away from the ruins. I was back last year in March (I wasn't walking), and I met two pilgrims, but they told me they were the only two of about 10 in Rabacal who had decided to stop to visit them. That's CRAZY!!!!

 

[jsalt]

Hmm, Jill, your comment suggests that Condeixa is not right on the Camino. I remember walking about two minutes "off route" to get to the ticket office. Has that changed?

Hi Laurie, as far as I know the biggish town of Condeixa-a-Nova has never been situated on the camino. Are you not thinking of Condeixa-a-Velha, which is next to the ruins at Conimbriga?
Jill

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Laurie, as far as I know the biggish town of Condeixa-a-Nova has never been situated on the camino. Are you not thinking of Condeixa-a-Velha, which is next to the ruins at Conimbriga?
Jill

Thanks -- I was totally confused. I hadn't finished my first cup of coffee when I wrote that, at least that's my excuse. I thought you were saying that the ruins themselves were not on the camino. Yes, you're right, I remember that the town is off route. Sorry to be dense.

And the other tidbit I didn't know is that there is now an albergue near the ruins. Hard to believe, but when I walked in 2008, there was not one albergue between Lisbon and Porto!

 

[Linda2232]

Hi, I doubt that anyone here would have done that. Vila Nova de Ancos is way off the camino, and Portuguese roads are notorious for being narrow, having no sidewalks, and mad drivers who think they are racing at Monte Carlo. I have walked from the ruins into Condeixa-a-Nova for accommodation (before there was an albergue near the ruins), and, instead of back-tracking, I used google maps and headed north out of Condeixa-a-Nova, without any trouble, to re-join the camino further along.
Jill

Thank you Jill