Camino Primitivo - Worst Experience OF MY LIFE!! Do Not Go There!! EVER!!!

[MarkCheeswright]

I am joking of course.

It's been quite the opposite.

Such an amazing experience in fact that there is a little voice that i can hear, just a whisper, deep inside me somewhere saying "Nobody else needs to know... keep it to yourself... maintain the camino's best kept secret... tell them all it was horrible!!".

It really has been an absolute pleasure.

Challenging, for sure... but awesome.

I will, in due course, put together a little cheat sheet for anybody looking to stay in hotels/private accommodation along the primitive way.

With the primitivo increasing in popularity, I imagine more and more will look to avoid the albergues. I feel the primitivo is short on beds as it is, and probably fair to say it is currently lacking sufficient development to keep up with the rise in demand.

I've watched many recently during our time on the trail, struggling with the uncertainty of a guaranteed bed... consumed by the potential of being left out in the cold or having to walk further than planned. Some bad experiences being had.

Some so afraid to find no beds available, they are driven to walk the first couple of hours in the dark, before sunrise! What more sad than to sacrifice the ability to properly appreciate the beauty around you than to walk blind in the darkness.

This route, in my opinion, is not to be rushed. Every step should be appreciated. Every magnificent view absorbed.

I imagine it may not bother some, and for others its exactly the type of excitement they look for... but for us... it was nice to know that no matter what time we woke up, or how long we took to complete a kilometre, we had an on-suite with hot shower, fresh towels and clean sheets on a double bed waiting for us at the end of the day.

We have been extremely fortunate that all of the places we booked were fabulous and averaged out at about 50 EUR per night (25EUR per head), so not too bad either all in all.

Ladies and gentlemen, I shall put something together as soon as I can. I hope it helps.

Buen Camino!
Mark

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I agree with you, so much so that I think the only responsible thing to for this forum is to remove any references to it to spare people from that horrible experience. Then we should lobby other websites and guide authors to stop promoting this horrible, horrible route. ;0)

In all seriousness, I think the authorities that decide that this or that year is this or that Caminos's year need to hear about the downside of promoting routes that cannot absorb the extra walkers. They need to hear the sad stories to mention.

 

[NualaOC]

Hi Mark, sounds like you had a wonderful experience!

Interesting observations on the accommodation issues. We'll be on the Primitivo in September/October and were hoping not to make any reservations. However, if things are very crowded, I'll have no qualms about phoning ahead to book a place. Looking forward to seeing your list when you get a chance to post it.

 

[amancio]

it is indeed a beautiful camino!

as to "bed rush", that depends on every person, to me, the most beautiful time of any day is when I leave the albergue at break of dawn and I see the day slowly unwrap and ligthen up the landscape around me!

To me, for example, €25 a night would be over my budget, that would be ok for one night, but spending money at that pace for two weeks woudl be too much for me, I am afraid.

Looking fowrad to going back, but next time I will do the Salvador from León to Oviedo, most amazing camino of all.

 

[ACL]

You had me for a second there!
Glad you had such a great experience, although as i've said before; carrying a tent always eases any pressure of worrying for a place to sleep.

 

[Michael Caleigh]

Hi Mark, sounds like you had a wonderful experience!

Interesting observations on the accommodation issues. We'll be on the Primitivo in September/October and were hoping not to make any reservations. However, if things are very crowded, I'll have no qualms about phoning ahead to book a place. Looking forward to seeing your list when you get a chance to post it.

Hi all.

I will be leaving for Oviedo in mid September and I can't wait...Well if I don't get a bed in one of the albergues then I will sleep in a bus stop...(kidding) but I don't want to spend £25 per day for a hotel.

Buen camino

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Some so afraid to find no beds available, they are driven to walk the first couple of hours in the dark, before sunrise! What more sad than to sacrifice the ability to properly appreciate the beauty around you than to walk blind in the darkness.

I completely agree. On southern Caminos this is mandatory in order to avoid mid-day heat - and yes, the first hours in darkness are useless if you want to appreciate the surroundings. I will do the Primitivo in July, and I think I will enjoy starting walking in daylight, for the first time in many years!!

BP

 

[Olivares]

What was your impression on availability of private lodging?

 

[micamino73]

Yes the route is short of Beds. Esp when you arrive to a small town like Berducedo and everything is full except one place that costs 4o euros. We learned to book a day before and this took the pressure off.

 

[TG874]

I am joking of course.

It's been quite the opposite.

Such an amazing experience in fact that there is a little voice that i can hear, just a whisper, deep inside me somewhere saying "Nobody else needs to know... keep it to yourself... maintain the camino's best kept secret... tell them all it was horrible!!".

It really has been an absolute pleasure.

Challenging, for sure... but awesome.

I will, in due course, put together a little cheat sheet for anybody looking to stay in hotels/private accommodation along the primitive way.

With the primitivo increasing in popularity, I imagine more and more will look to avoid the albergues. I feel the primitivo is short on beds as it is, and probably fair to say it is currently lacking sufficient development to keep up with the rise in demand.

I've watched many recently during our time on the trail, struggling with the uncertainty of a guaranteed bed... consumed by the potential of being left out in the cold or having to walk further than planned. Some bad experiences being had.

Some so afraid to find no beds available, they are driven to walk the first couple of hours in the dark, before sunrise! What more sad than to sacrifice the ability to properly appreciate the beauty around you than to walk blind in the darkness.

This route, in my opinion, is not to be rushed. Every step should be appreciated. Every magnificent view absorbed.

I imagine it may not bother some, and for others its exactly the type of excitement they look for... but for us... it was nice to know that no matter what time we woke up, or how long we took to complete a kilometre, we had an on-suite with hot shower, fresh towels and clean sheets on a double bed waiting for us at the end of the day.

We have been extremely fortunate that all of the places we booked were fabulous and averaged out at about 50 EUR per night (25EUR per head), so not too bad either all in all.

Ladies and gentlemen, I shall put something together as soon as I can. I hope it helps.

Buen Camino!
Mark

Hi Mark - loved reading your account, and I quite agree about keeping it to yourself too, unfortunately it's now 'out there' ...! I'm walking the Primitivo in September/October this year, at present trying to build up some fitness though not doing very well at the moment, just hoping that between now and then I can do some serious distances since we don't have mountains in the South East of England! I'd be really interesting in your list of alternative accommodation - I don't mind doing albergues but every now and then it's kind of nice to have some privacy. Trish

 

[TerryB]

For those who have not found Gronze this is the link:-
http://www.gronze.com/camino-primitivo
Click on the "etapa" (stage) and it gives a list of the accommodation in the towns and villages that stage passes through. Some prices go up at the beginning of June, some at the beginning of July. You should be able to get a double room in the €30 - €40 bracket in most of the towns. Those marked "Casa Rural" are often more expensive than the Hotel /Hostal accommodation.
As others have said, Berducedo / La Mesa is a crunch point and worth a phone call or pre-booking. If you are caught up in a wave of peregrinos it is best to do a half day and let some of them get ahead! Santiago will still be there when you arrive.

Blessings on all planning their walk
Tio Tel

 

[cheviot]

I am joking of course.

It's been quite the opposite.

Such an amazing experience in fact that there is a little voice that i can hear, just a whisper, deep inside me somewhere saying "Nobody else needs to know... keep it to yourself... maintain the camino's best kept secret... tell them all it was horrible!!".

It really has been an absolute pleasure.

Challenging, for sure... but awesome.

I will, in due course, put together a little cheat sheet for anybody looking to stay in hotels/private accommodation along the primitive way.

With the primitivo increasing in popularity, I imagine more and more will look to avoid the albergues. I feel the primitivo is short on beds as it is, and probably fair to say it is currently lacking sufficient development to keep up with the rise in demand.

I've watched many recently during our time on the trail, struggling with the uncertainty of a guaranteed bed... consumed by the potential of being left out in the cold or having to walk further than planned. Some bad experiences being had.

Some so afraid to find no beds available, they are driven to walk the first couple of hours in the dark, before sunrise! What more sad than to sacrifice the ability to properly appreciate the beauty around you than to walk blind in the darkness.

This route, in my opinion, is not to be rushed. Every step should be appreciated. Every magnificent view absorbed.

I imagine it may not bother some, and for others its exactly the type of excitement they look for... but for us... it was nice to know that no matter what time we woke up, or how long we took to complete a kilometre, we had an on-suite with hot shower, fresh towels and clean sheets on a double bed waiting for us at the end of the day.

We have been extremely fortunate that all of the places we booked were fabulous and averaged out at about 50 EUR per night (25EUR per head), so not too bad either all in all.

Ladies and gentlemen, I shall put something together as soon as I can. I hope it helps.

Buen Camino!
Mark

Hi Mark,
I have just finished the Camino Inglés which I really enjoyed.On the plane home I met a guy who had just finished the Primitivo and he also thought it was fantastic.So that is my plan for next year.If you are putting some info together I for one would love to see it.
Bob

 

[Taisce]

I agree with you, so much so that I think the only responsible thing to for this forum is to remove any references to it to spare people from that horrible experience. Then we should lobby other websites and guide authors to stop promoting this horrible, horrible route. ;0)

In all seriousness, I think the authorities that decide that this or that year is this or that Caminos's year need to hear about the downside of promoting routes that cannot absorb the extra walkers. They need to hear the sad stories to mention.

Please don't use misleading headings. Also, don't forget that those people leaving extremely early may be people who don't want to walk in the extreme heat of the midday sun. Also, some people are on a tight budget so can't afford Eu50 per night. I know my friend and I often opted for a twin room in order to ensure a quite and strengthening night's sleep, but not everyone can afford it.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

@Taisce... What?

1) Don't use misleading titles: a) I did not, plus let's work on our sense of humour.
2) Where does this thing about people leaving early come from? Can't find anything in my post on the matter, although I would suggest that if they wantto actually enjoy the beauty they should get up with the others and finish earlier if they are afraid of the heat. Since you asked, that is.
3) Where did I suggest people spend 50€ a night? Bexause even if one wanted it, on thePrimitivo they would be hard pressed to find such accommodations.

 

[Trevor Ockenden]

Great advice from the original post and many that followed.

The "misleading" title has certainly had the opposite effect as I for one was immediately drawn to it and was pleasantly surprised to read that you were joking.

I have only done 6 days on the Frances from StJPD to Estella and loved it but I am returning soon to do 3 weeks from Le Puy and would love to read anybodies comments on comparing these three Camino sections.

Wishing you all well and safe on your various journeys.

 

[Paulette S]

I am joking of course.

It's been quite the opposite.

Such an amazing experience in fact that there is a little voice that i can hear, just a whisper, deep inside me somewhere saying "Nobody else needs to know... keep it to yourself... maintain the camino's best kept secret... tell them all it was horrible!!".

It really has been an absolute pleasure.

Challenging, for sure... but awesome.

I will, in due course, put together a little cheat sheet for anybody looking to stay in hotels/private accommodation along the primitive way.

With the primitivo increasing in popularity, I imagine more and more will look to avoid the albergues. I feel the primitivo is short on beds as it is, and probably fair to say it is currently lacking sufficient development to keep up with the rise in demand.

I've watched many recently during our time on the trail, struggling with the uncertainty of a guaranteed bed... consumed by the potential of being left out in the cold or having to walk further than planned. Some bad experiences being had.

Some so afraid to find no beds available, they are driven to walk the first couple of hours in the dark, before sunrise! What more sad than to sacrifice the ability to properly appreciate the beauty around you than to walk blind in the darkness.

This route, in my opinion, is not to be rushed. Every step should be appreciated. Every magnificent view absorbed.

I imagine it may not bother some, and for others its exactly the type of excitement they look for... but for us... it was nice to know that no matter what time we woke up, or how long we took to complete a kilometre, we had an on-suite with hot shower, fresh towels and clean sheets on a double bed waiting for us at the end of the day.

We have been extremely fortunate that all of the places we booked were fabulous and averaged out at about 50 EUR per night (25EUR per head), so not too bad either all in all.

Ladies and gentlemen, I shall put something together as soon as I can. I hope it helps.

Buen Camino!
Mark

 

[Paulette S]

One of the best parts of our Primitivo was meeting you & Julija , forever Camino friends
Ditto everything you said! Take your time if you have the luxury or might I suggest don't do it until you have the time

 

[MarkCheeswright]

One of the best parts of our Primitivo was meeting you & Julija , forever Camino friends
Ditto everything you said! Take your time if you have the luxury or might I suggest don't do it until you have the time

Paulette! We miss you guys!! We had the best time and so fortunate to meet you both on the trail, it was awesome awesome awesome and can't wait till we all meet again. All our love to you and Jill and send our best to the boys too! Finisterre looked brilliant.

 

[ELOISA OLIVEIRA]

I am joking of course.

It's been quite the opposite.

Such an amazing experience in fact that there is a little voice that i can hear, just a whisper, deep inside me somewhere saying "Nobody else needs to know... keep it to yourself... maintain the camino's best kept secret... tell them all it was horrible!!".

It really has been an absolute pleasure.

Challenging, for sure... but awesome.

I will, in due course, put together a little cheat sheet for anybody looking to stay in hotels/private accommodation along the primitive way.

With the primitivo increasing in popularity, I imagine more and more will look to avoid the albergues. I feel the primitivo is short on beds as it is, and probably fair to say it is currently lacking sufficient development to keep up with the rise in demand.

I've watched many recently during our time on the trail, struggling with the uncertainty of a guaranteed bed... consumed by the potential of being left out in the cold or having to walk further than planned. Some bad experiences being had.

Some so afraid to find no beds available, they are driven to walk the first couple of hours in the dark, before sunrise! What more sad than to sacrifice the ability to properly appreciate the beauty around you than to walk blind in the darkness.

This route, in my opinion, is not to be rushed. Every step should be appreciated. Every magnificent view absorbed.

I imagine it may not bother some, and for others its exactly the type of excitement they look for... but for us... it was nice to know that no matter what time we woke up, or how long we took to complete a kilometre, we had an on-suite with hot shower, fresh towels and clean sheets on a double bed waiting for us at the end of the day.

We have been extremely fortunate that all of the places we booked were fabulous and averaged out at about 50 EUR per night (25EUR per head), so not too bad either all in all.

Ladies and gentlemen, I shall put something together as soon as I can. I hope it helps.

Buen Camino!
Mark

Hi Mark,
as Nuala I´ll be on Primitivo in next September and I´m really looking forward to get your detailed infor about it before I´ll be on the way.....
Many brazilian friends told me that this is one of the more amazing routes to Santiago.
Last year I went to Camino Frances but Primitivo has called me this year.
Thanks a lot for your comments of booking places. Have to be prepared as I´m not the one always in a hurry to arrive...
Hoping to hear from you soon.
Eloisa

 

[TG874]

For those who have not found Gronze this is the link:-
http://www.gronze.com/camino-primitivo
Click on the "etapa" (stage) and it gives a list of the accommodation in the towns and villages that stage passes through. Some prices go up at the beginning of June, some at the beginning of July. You should be able to get a double room in the €30 - €40 bracket in most of the towns. Those marked "Casa Rural" are often more expensive than the Hotel /Hostal accommodation.
As others have said, Berducedo / La Mesa is a crunch point and worth a phone call or pre-booking. If you are caught up in a wave of peregrinos it is best to do a half day and let some of them get ahead! Santiago will still be there when you arrive.

Blessings on all planning their walk
Tio Tel

That's so helpful, thank you! It has lots of other useful information too I will certainly keep it handy! Trish

 

[roxat]

I am joking of course.

It's been quite the opposite.

Such an amazing experience in fact that there is a little voice that i can hear, just a whisper, deep inside me somewhere saying "Nobody else needs to know... keep it to yourself... maintain the camino's best kept secret... tell them all it was horrible!!".

It really has been an absolute pleasure.

Challenging, for sure... but awesome.

I will, in due course, put together a little cheat sheet for anybody looking to stay in hotels/private accommodation along the primitive way.

With the primitivo increasing in popularity, I imagine more and more will look to avoid the albergues. I feel the primitivo is short on beds as it is, and probably fair to say it is currently lacking sufficient development to keep up with the rise in demand.

I've watched many recently during our time on the trail, struggling with the uncertainty of a guaranteed bed... consumed by the potential of being left out in the cold or having to walk further than planned. Some bad experiences being had.

Some so afraid to find no beds available, they are driven to walk the first couple of hours in the dark, before sunrise! What more sad than to sacrifice the ability to properly appreciate the beauty around you than to walk blind in the darkness.

This route, in my opinion, is not to be rushed. Every step should be appreciated. Every magnificent view absorbed.

I imagine it may not bother some, and for others its exactly the type of excitement they look for... but for us... it was nice to know that no matter what time we woke up, or how long we took to complete a kilometre, we had an on-suite with hot shower, fresh towels and clean sheets on a double bed waiting for us at the end of the day.

We have been extremely fortunate that all of the places we booked were fabulous and averaged out at about 50 EUR per night (25EUR per head), so not too bad either all in all.

Ladies and gentlemen, I shall put something together as soon as I can. I hope it helps.

Buen Camino!
Mark

Hi, Mark. I'm really interested in the info of those hostels and hotels. I'm getting to Oviedo in September to start the Primitivo, but I would also prefer to stay in private rooms

I am joking of course.

It's been quite the opposite.

Such an amazing experience in fact that there is a little voice that i can hear, just a whisper, deep inside me somewhere saying "Nobody else needs to know... keep it to yourself... maintain the camino's best kept secret... tell them all it was horrible!!".

It really has been an absolute pleasure.

Challenging, for sure... but awesome.

I will, in due course, put together a little cheat sheet for anybody looking to stay in hotels/private accommodation along the primitive way.

With the primitivo increasing in popularity, I imagine more and more will look to avoid the albergues. I feel the primitivo is short on beds as it is, and probably fair to say it is currently lacking sufficient development to keep up with the rise in demand.

I've watched many recently during our time on the trail, struggling with the uncertainty of a guaranteed bed... consumed by the potential of being left out in the cold or having to walk further than planned. Some bad experiences being had.

Some so afraid to find no beds available, they are driven to walk the first couple of hours in the dark, before sunrise! What more sad than to sacrifice the ability to properly appreciate the beauty around you than to walk blind in the darkness.

This route, in my opinion, is not to be rushed. Every step should be appreciated. Every magnificent view absorbed.

I imagine it may not bother some, and for others its exactly the type of excitement they look for... but for us... it was nice to know that no matter what time we woke up, or how long we took to complete a kilometre, we had an on-suite with hot shower, fresh towels and clean sheets on a double bed waiting for us at the end of the day.

We have been extremely fortunate that all of the places we booked were fabulous and averaged out at about 50 EUR per night (25EUR per head), so not too bad either all in all.

Ladies and gentlemen, I shall put something together as soon as I can. I hope it helps.

Buen Camino!
Mark

Hi Mark, I would really appreciate the hotel information, phone numbers to call in advance. I'm getting to Oviedo in September to start the Primitivo, and it would be a great peace of mind to know where I could sleep before I arrive. Private rooms are my firs option when possible.
Thanks.
Best regards.
Roxana

 

[alaskadiver]

Did Mark write a summary of his trip? I don't see it.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Did Mark write a summary of his trip? I don't see it.

I don't think so. Gronze, as suggested by @TerryB , has a good list of accommodation. Also the CSJ guide to the Primitivo is good, and has other useful information.

 

[alaskadiver]

I don't think so. Gronze, as suggested by @TerryB , has a good list of accommodation. Also the CSJ guide to the Primitivo is good, and has other useful information.

I wasn't looking for those links. I just wanted to know if Mark wrote a trip report on his hike. Looks like he didn't.