Camino Primitivo

[Micksy]

HI, I'm from Ireland and am planning to walk the Camino Primitivo this coming December , starting on the 18th and finishing on the 29th.
My biggest concern is accommodation, especially during the Christmas period.
I would gratefully appreciate any advice.
jim

 

[Tincatinker]

You are right to be concerned. https://www.gronze.com/camino-primitivo indicates that most, though not all, Albergues are closed. Worth working through the pages as Gronze offers opening & closing dates. Its all in Spanish, but simple & repetitive. Given Spanish traditions you will have to plan very carefully for Christmas Eve / Day as most Hostals will be closed or full of family members.

An additional concern has to be the weather. Between Salas and O Cadavo there are plenty of high points in the 900 - 1200 metre range - above the median snow-line for that time of year. Even sticking to the road routes deep snow on the margins will slow you down.

Happy planning & Buena suerte

 

[Micksy]

Thanks Tincatinker.
I will definitely check out Gronze. I'm wondering would there be some private Albergues or small hotels open in the larger towns . I will also get the primitivo guide on this site and perhaps it will have closing dates for Albergues. Hadn't considered the snow aspect of things it being Spain. Thanks again for your advice , I will continue to plan and research, luckily I haven't booked a flight yet.
Jim

 

[musicman]

Hola Jim, two of us walked it in June,totally different scenario to December,I know.
We stayed mainlybin very small B&Bs,1or 2** hotels - we avoid albergues though will occasionally use a private one.
I booked every place well in advance,mainly with Booking.com.
If you do that it might save you some energy in cold climes,by having the Correos carry your luggage. There will be some slippy slopes! Buen Camino.

 

[Thomas1962]

Around christmas. the situation on the later part of the Primitivo (between Lugo and 50kms onwards to Melide) will be that only the 2 xunta albergues will be open, the one in San Roman (20 kms after Lugo) and As Seixas (33 kms after Lugo. In Ferreira all the albergues will be closed from November on.
But for sure, Primitivo in wintertime will be beautiful!
Buen camino!

 

[Micksy]

Thanks Musicman (great name),I like the idea of booking in advance especially for the Christmas period. If I worked out my routes and times beforehand I could have my Christmas accommodation booked before leaving.I'm just beginning to get excited as i would really love to do this. Christmas has changed in Ireland and a more solitary experience is appealing. Thanks again for your advice I can see that you have lots of experience.
Jim

 

[Micksy]

" Primitivo in wintertime will be beautiful" music to my ears. thanks Thomas1962.
Jim

 

[Tamsin Grainger]

Sorry but our municipal albergue (day 1) shuts end October (de Grado) and I understand that that is because the way is so tough with weather at high places, that they do not expect anyone to walk it.

 

[Micksy]

Sorry to hear that you are closed but thanks for the information ,its a bit worrying that they do not expect anyone to be walking.
jim

 

[Tia Valeria]

Sorry to hear that you are closed but thanks for the information ,its a bit worrying that they do not expect anyone to be walking.
jim

I think that few walk in December because of the risk of snow and also places closed for family reasons, refurbishment, volunteer hospitaleros have gone home, etc over Christmas. It is not unusual for the road over Puerto de Palo to be closed because of snow during the winter, even if only for a day or so.

Gronze has a note of where is open all year and open months where not. It just means checking out each place individually and they do keep up to date as far as possible. More so than paper guides can do.

Others have planned walking at this time of year but not come back to say how they did - so not very helpful for you. However this does not mean it is not possible with good planning and the weather might be fine for walking. Let us know how it goes and Buen Camino.

 

[LesBrass]

There was a young woman called Sophie who started on 27 December and she posted every day on a Facebook group... her photos looked fabulous... no snow but it was cold. I've just come back and would happily walk again. We walked over Hospital in thick fog and cold rain so I'll have to go back one day to see the view!

 

[Micksy]

I think that few walk in December because of the risk of snow and also places closed for family reasons, refurbishment, volunteer hospitaleros have gone home, etc over Christmas. It is not unusual for the road over Puerto de Palo to be closed because of snow during the winter, even if only for a day or so.

Gronze has a note of where is open all year and open months where not. It just means checking out each place individually and they do keep up to date as far as possible. More so than paper guides can do.

Others have planned walking at this time of year but not come back to say how they did - so not very helpful for you. However this does not mean it is not possible with good planning and the weather might be fine for walking. Let us know how it goes and Buen Camino.

Thanks again for you're advice and words of enchouragement. I have to get Gronze it has been suggested already by Tincatinker. I will certainly let you all know how I fare out
Jim

 

[Micksy]

There was a young woman called Sophie who started on 27 December and she posted every day on a Facebook group... her photos looked fabulous... no snow but it was cold. I've just come back and would happily walk again. We walked over Hospital in thick fog and cold rain so I'll have to go back one day to see the view!

I'm Irish so not fazed by rain or fog and I love to hear that you would happily walk again despite the cold rain
Jim

 

[Thomas1962]

Sorry but our municipal albergue (day 1) shuts end October (de Grado) and I understand that that is because the way is so tough with weather at high places, that they do not expect anyone to walk it.

Grado indeed stops in the end of october or the first of november. So do we at Ponte Ferreira.
There are all year round pilgrims on the way on the Primitivo, but after november so very few that it is not economic tow stay open, e.g. because of heating costs. And we and most other hospitaleros need a break from the season!
But be sure, there are (few) pilgrims. The hospitales might be closed when there is snow expected, but the Pola de Allende route will be open then.

 

[Micksy]

I understand that many of the municipal albergues will be closed for the season and as you correctly point out , everyone needs a break so i am hoping that some private ones will remain open. I have just started looking through Gronce which seems very comprehensive. Thanks again Thomas1962 and as you say even if there is snow i can take the Pola de Allende route/
jim

 

[Isca-camigo]

Just seen this, but my suggestion is to aim for San Juan de Villapenda at the end of the 1st day, Bodenaya the 2nd then Borres for the 3rd, if anybody else is walking those are the most likely places they will go for and that will be open. Once you are into Galicia they have the Xunta Albergues and they usually have a commitment to opening 365( or 366 next year) days a year. You will have options of bailing out at various points, which isn't a sin, sometimes its commonsense winning out over determination. I have just had a similar pre-camino decision to make on another route which I was due to start on the 14th December, it has only 1 Albergue along the route the other places I could stay such as hotels were not taking bookings for the days I wanted to be there, when I added that to probably lots of rain,my own personal fitness, lack of daylight hours, remote mountain sections I decided to look at other routes.
The Primitivo is definitely doable but you have to know when to take a step back, the really remote and tricky sections will be from Borres to Cadavo, I watched a video of pilgrims walk the hospitales route in snow but decided at Fonsgrada to bus to Lugo because the next section while not having the same reputation as the hospitales was just as tricky and remote.

Buen Camino

 

[Micksy]

Thanks for your advise ,i very much appreciate it , my other big problem is time , I only have 8days for walking so i need to walk an average of 35 km per day. however as you so rightly say there is always an option of bailing at various points , which I will have no problem doing if the conditions are not right. I'm glad to hear that you will also be walking in December its a special time to walk . Buen Camino to you also, hope you have a safe and wonderful time.
jim