I came upon that river crossing two weeks ago on Aug. 11, 2008. I was completely alone and after spending some time considering, decided to attempt to cross the granite blocks. Unfortunately, I am not a tall person and they were placed too far apart for me to safely step from one to the next - even with the use of my very sturdy walking stick. I had to "push off" and hop a little - but as I landed, I hydroplaned due to the 6-8 inches of water covering them and then slid on the slippery surface. Additionally, the weight of my pack shifted and I was in a very dangerous position. So I tried to step down into the water between the blocks, but the bottom was rocky and very slippery and the water quickly became too deep for me to continue to do that safely. I had no choice but to go back.
I then tried to wade across the river. So I stoically rolled up my pants legs (further) and waded into the water. The ducks were happily swimming circles around me as the water got deeper and deeper. When it reached my "culo" I stopped. The bottom once again was rocky - similar to the descent from Perdón - and VERY slippery. I took one or two more precarious and dangerous steps but then the bottom of my pack was getting wet. I envisioned one slip and going in, my pack filling with water and that would be it! Also, if my movil got wet, I wouldn't even be able to call for help. SInce I had not seen one single other Pilgrim since I left Muxía that morning, I decided that my only solution was to back out and walk the road route around the river.
Perhaps if I had been with others it would have been passable, but I was very much alone and to be honest, it was probably the only time I was ever really afraid on the
Camino de Santiago. The walk around by the road was very long, poorly marked and I ended up asking directions and being told I was 5 km off the Camino. By the time I reached Fisterra I had been walking 10.5 hours and 42 km. And that day, there was an Atlantic storm with rain, wind, fog and mist. It was not my best day on the Camino.
Something really needs to be done about that crossing. The Xunta de Galicia is touting the Muxía Fisterra Way as the "second best Route" to walk... but that crossing is extremely dangerous. And I attempted it with "low" water and a calm current. I can't even imagine if the water had been high. I shall include the link to my web album for anyone who would like to see the photos. It is otherwise a beautiful Way.
http://picasaweb.google.com/aStoirin/Th ... August2008
Buen Camino,